We arrived in Lefkas marina, on the island of Lefkada yesterday, 13 August.

We are glad to be here in, what is over recent years our second home, and it is nice to meet people you know, and have a friendly word.

Our trip from Montenegro started well. We left Bar marina early morning, as we knew that a gale was due to pass through the Adriatic on the next day. Most of the way, the winds were so light that we motored, as we wanted to keep up to about a 5-6 knot speed, and arrive off Erikoussa island about 30 miles north of Corfu after 24 hours. There we would be able to pull in, and wait for the gale to pass, before moving onto Corfu.

We kept rough watches, according to how we felt, and managed some sleep. There is not much at Erikoussa, and we did arrive off the island in the early morning. While still dark we were in very strong winds, and a rough following sea. Janika was surfing across the top of the waves as they passed underneath her hull. It's quite a nice experience in daylight, but a bit more scary in darkness. As well as that, there was a clutch of ships passing by, and although, that's the part I don't mind, Karen feels differently, and so was on edge as they passed by, bow waves could be seen, and they seemed bigger in the dark.

We decided to press on as Erikoussa came up, and as we were 'out there' in it, to keep going. There's a poem by Robert Browning I think, about that moment, when things a getting bad, that just at that moment, things suddenly improve. That's what happened to us, and the winds dropped, the sea eased, and we found ourselves a few hours later in a calm sea with hardly any wind.

By early afternoon we had anchored in the bay behind the town of Corfu. By then it was blowing strongly again, and we realised that the gale had arrived, and we were experiencing the less affects of it in the sheltered anchorage off Corfu. Sheltered it might be, but still force six, and more worrying most of us seemed to be anchored in weed! Twice we dragged through the weed, before we found a patch of sand. Well, Karen found the sand. (Karen is good on sand and rocks! - specialist subjects) We didn't get off Janika for 24 hours, but enjoyed listening to the brass band who were playing in th band stand in one of the biggest town squares in the Med. It's beautiful.

We managed to get ashore on the night of the 11th, and took Karen for a birthday dinner at 'La Cantina' (The Kitchen) where we have been before. The Romanian waitress remembered us, which was nice.

Next morning, we sailed to Paxos, and enjoyed a day there.

Onwards on 13th, we motored and sailed to Lefkas. By the time we approached the sand spit of the channel which leads to Lefkas, we were sailing at up to 7.4 knots on small sails! There were at least 20 boats waiting to pass through the channel waiting for the bridge to open in a very tight little harbour, (old Roman) before the bridge. And, before that is the narrow opening which you have to navigate around a moving sand spit, where many have gone aground. As well, A 25+ wind blowing, trying to push you off! Sometimes, you think, "why an I doing this'? But for me, not one of them. I don't like rough seas, it makes me feel sick. But, Karen doesn't like this. So, she was getting more animated. Moving around the boat, looking at everything. Giving me plenty of advice. Mostly, don't go there, don't do here. In fact, don't go anywhere! If Karen had a loud hailer, I'm sure she would be conducting the other boats as well! I decided to go, through the narrow pass, by the sand spit, as there was a gap, and many of the boats were keeping back, worried about the tight space and many boats inside the harbour. At the same time, we are all waiting for the bridge to open. But it was passed the hour, when the bridge opens, and I knew it would be soon. Once inside the harbour, the sea was subdued, but the winds still kept trying to push us off. The boat behind me was struggling to keep his line, as I was, because the Greek in front was not moving fast enough, but he too, had a boat in front of him that was not moving fast enough, and had a big gap in front. Actually, a loud hailer would have helped! Our bow thruster helped to keep our line, and soon all the boats were moving along through the bridge. Then another bunch of boats came through the other way. It was all great fun! (I SAY NOW!)

We anchored in the Lefkas harbour while the wind dropped and then motored into the marina. As soon a sI called up on the VHF and Janika Lycka, actually, I said Janika leaka, because that's how the Greeks say it, there was an instant response of welcome, and we were told that we were able to go into our own berth.

We were home. And really glad to be so. Our home in Greece that is.

A pizza with a sorrento salad fitted the bill, and a walk through the main street afterwards suited us for dinner. And we slept till 9.30 this morning!

Now, we start preparing Janika for the winter lay up. She is booked in to be lifted out next Friday 19 August, and we shall depart Lefkas on 22nd. Over that period there is much to do, so this will be the last blog this season.

Until the next time...........

Best Wishes to all.

Nigel & Karen

It’s a Country few have visited. But on our little evidence, certainly worth a look.

It contains only 650,000 people, is made up of hills and mountains and a small coastline. With 70 mountain peaks over 2000 metres, they certainly define it well.

We spent two nights in Kotor which, lies under th Lovcen mountain. It is a walled city, developed within a little triangular space, surrounded by the city’s wall, which reaches the fortress of St. Ivan at 260metres high.

Karen and I walked up the supposed 1400 steps to the fortress, along with several other misguided souls! Actually, the fortress is nothing to get excited about, but the views are spectacular. And that satisfied feeling of having done it too. Take plenty of water with you, and preferably go early before the sun gets up. Best of all, buy a nice coffee in the city square, and look at the postcards of the view from the top. It’s less stressful.

The berth for Janika was located just across the road from the old city, and the market, where we bought fresh wild strawberries, wild raspberries, fresh honey, and in the end I almost had to physically stop Karen from buying stuff, because she was so excited about all there was. Fresh, and local, from the mountain people. The prices were good too.

We visited the Cathedral, St. Tryphon, and were pleased with its interior design and the way in which it had been restored over the years after many earthquakes too. The last in 1979! I said a few words for my Uncle Graham.

It was the sort of place that we could have spent another couple of days, and maybe entered into the mountains with a car. But time was running out, and we made for Risan, where we passed by Perast, where the islands of Gospa od Skrpjela and St. George sit, apparently on top of old captured pirate ships which were then sunk on to a reef, where now sits a church. Each year there is a ceremony, where people take a stone to leave on the reef, and build it up.

The night at Risan, was spoilt by youngsters in a bar playing the National Anthem we deduced about 20 times over at full volume, but suddenly it stopped and all was well. Until early morning when the Bora wind blew for a few hours and disturbed our sleep.

Next day, Sunday we left the Kotor bay, and motored down the coast, and stopped in a place where the ‘A’ list stars are said to go. Sv. Stefan. We parked in 15 metres in a lovely bay close to two beaches, which were lightly covered with pairs of sunbeds and straw parasols, neatly placed, with a distance from each other for privacy. The hotel looked very tasteful too, set in green gardens with clipped grass, and so many different shades of green trees all around. I looked for Sofia Loren as the book said, but she was not there that day!

On to Bar, the biggest commercial port in Montenegro. And, the place where in a couple of days that we shall depart Montenegro, and leave, if they’ll let us!

Once tied up, we met Molly and Stephen from Vancover. I asked when they left Vancover, and they said, 1999. Not much you can follow that with! We were invited for drinks onboard and enjoyed an early evening with them before returning onboard Janika for dinner. And sleep. We are sleeping so much. It might be the heat.

Just back from a walk around Bar. It's not smart. It's not even halfway. When you realise the best part the best part of Bar is the Hyper market, you get an idea. However, one needs to get things into perspective! This was a Communist Country, and has not had as long to adjust as Croatia. The buildings show it too. The authority buildings like hospital etc are 'architect' designed, and look like concrete bunkers, with fins on the side. Most people live in high concrete tower blocks, and the contrast with the surroundings could hardly be more stark. They are beautiful. The buildings are not. I get annoyed about our Country's buildings too, and those people, who were/are responsible as well. In fact, back to Montenegro, the medieval city of Kotor has all you need in terms of design, space for people to live. Everything in proportion. And now we have modern ammenities of services to make these old places buzz as well. So, why do we prefer to visit and live in these old places, rather then the new? Obviously, those ancestors of ours, knew something after all. And we've forgotten it. Sorry, I'll get off my box.

Chances are that the next blog will be from Greece, as we shall leave Bar tomorrow morning. We plan to skirt down the coast of Albania, just 15 miles off the coast. The territorial limit is 12 miles! And in 140 miles on, Erikousa, or another 30 miles Corfu. So Wednesday afternoon, we hope to park in the main harbour, just below the town.

We just love Greece. It will be nice to be back. And despite all their problems they keep smiling too.

I'm already thinking about their 'Mythos' beer. It is like nectar!!!!

After we said goodbye to Brian and Barbara, we popped across the road to the supermarket, got some provisions, and returned to Janika.

At 11.30am we departed Trogir and after clearing the canal, and rounding the island, put up the sails, and passed through the gap between Solta and Brac, and onto the island of Hvar, where we tied up to a stone wall, in the place of U. Stiniva. A small ten house bay with its own harbour wall. We had a swim in warm water and checked to see that our anchor was in a good place. It was. Just cleat of the small boats mooring gear laid on the sea bed. Shortly afterwards, we were joined by an old charter boat with ten Polish onboard. Very happy, and talented at playing the flute and guitar, which we enjoyed.

On Monday morning we were up early, and in less than two hours were passing by the town of Hvar, before ten o’clock. On then to the island of Korcula. We had a long way to go, and the wind was not helping, being straight ahead. Although we tried running along the hvar coast for a few hours, the wind, just wouldn’t give us the angle, so we motored until we approached the Peljesac Kanal where, the wind funnelled down beautifully, and we sailed under genoa sail alone, and enjoyed watching dozens of wind surfers, and dozens of kite surfers flying across the kanal. We moved over a little to avoid the mass but, inevitably some thought it good fun to see how close they could get to Janika, and those brave ones came on close. (Karen remained fairly calm! For those who know, she was very brave.)

The approach up to Korcula itself, is a wonderful vista, and I can’t help imagining how things must have looked when those great sailing ships were anchored in the bay, beside the town.

At about this point, the wind by now had freshened some more, (It always does when you are ending a passage!), and we brought some sail in, and still kept doing 5 knots. As we snaked through the islands towards Lumbarda we reduced sail more, and on a handkerchief of sail took Janika on past all the motor boats, (they have to give way to sail), and found a nice anchorage in Uvala Racisce, just a bend away from Lumbarda, where we moored in the marina on the way up.

That evening, we swam around the inlet, and had a chat to a couple of people on the way round. The inlet was a lovely area, surrounded by houses, enclosed by several varieties of green trees. By, late evening, some more yachts had joined us too. One, a bit too close, with people from Germany. Thank fully, the night passed by quietly, weather wise, and we enjoyed a good sleep. Actually, good sleep, good food, with changing scenery is a good recipe.

On Tuesday, we weighed anchor at 7.55am. By 9am we were outside, and dealing with 27 knot winds. It was that the wind was gusting between 7 knots and 27 knots that made choice of sail a problem, and frustrating. By then we had received the latest weather, and it was threatening 35 knot winds, in the afternoon. So, we headed for Miljet as a port of refuge. Later on the weather reduced and we continued on towards Dubrovnik. We anchored in a small bay at Kolocep.

It was not a peaceful night, and we had to re anchor, but by 9am on the morning of Wednesday 3 August, we were filling up with diesel at Orsan opposite the cruise ship berths, and Janika took nearly 200 litres. In Croatia the fuel prices are very reasonable. For example diesel at £1.15 per litre compared with Greece at £1.55 per litre.

We passed through the space between Dubrovnik and the island of Lokrum mid morning. Past ‘Seabourne Quest’ cruise ship and, several other large yachts, and a couple of motor yachts too. The another hour, and we anchored in Cavtat harbour which, would be our last night in Croatia. And, our chance to check out of the Country.

Karen treated us to a lovely dinner. We had mussles, even a couple of oysters to try, and beef steaks to follow. That used up our remaining Kuna currency beautifully, and washed down with Malvasia wine. The waiter’s service was exemplary, and that’s not said often. So, he benefited from Karen’s overflowing kuna too.

We returned to Janika under a sparkling star lit sky, in the dink, and another good nights sleep.

Next morning we checked out of Cavtat, and Croatia, thanked the harbourmaster for his lovely Country, and made off for Montenegro.

A variety of sailing and motoring took us along. We passed a magnificent three masted schooner with a blue ensign flying, and infact, she gave way to us, as we were sailing, and they were motoring, but the sight was fantastic. Waving both ways, me taking photos. I’ll try and put one on the site, it says more than words! We didn’t catch the name though. It was painted in gold.

At 2pm we rounded Rt Ostra on Croatia and entered Montenegro waters. Always a little anticipation on ones heart at these times. Wondering how they authorities will treat you. The first place we tried to berth, called Zelinika had enormous hard rubber fenders at large distances apart, so that we would have ended up in between against the concrete. Or worse, on one end and off the other. So, we decided to head for Kotor. At 5.50pm we entered the bay of Kotor, having had an amazing journey through the mountains! The best way I can describe the trip, is travelling through a succession of lakes, surrounded by high mountains, with small neighbourhoods along the way. It is like being in Norwegian fjords. But, warmer!

Again we passed by the Seabourne Quest cruise ship. As we did so, I just noticed a wash from the stern, and then, I saw the anchor being raised up into the hawse pipe, with gallons of water washing all the mud off. It was time to make a quick exit. So, after I took a photo, well you have to. We did, and berthed up stern to the quay in Kotor. We had had a long day, and were tired. But, we had to check into Montenegro!

I went ashore with all our papers. Found the harbour masters office, and found the door locked.

As I was looking at the notice, on the door. I can’t say reading, because it was all montenegren to me! The door opened, and there stood a lady all done up in full evening dress. I said something about, is this the harbour master office, fully expecting her to say, no. When, she said, yes, do come in. And locked the door behind me!

She took the papers, ship registration; insurance; passports, and asked for my certificate of competency (First time this year!) Copied them, while I filled in two documents. Then, having completed the forms, she asked the same questions again, and filled in some more. It was not as bad as Turkey. Nothing could be that bad! And, soon I was off to see the Police, and go through their checks too. I was soon back with Janika saying to Karen that we were all now legal, and I’d just seen the best dressed harbour master to date.

On Sunday 27 July, Karen and I took the ferry from Preko across to Zadar, about 30 minute trip. We had lunch in the Old Town, and then walked and walked and walked past lots of old, bullet holed blocks of flats, and some brand new blocks of flats, completed but almost empty. Work that one out! Probably the Local Authority inspired developments. The we found the main bus station and were just in time to meet Brian and Barbara (B&B) as they came off the bus from the airport. We had rain the previous night and it was overcast, but still warmish, as they arrived. Dinner that night at Jardin in Preko was a treat and good place to talk about the forthcoming week ahead.

On Monday the sun was out, and we completed our provisioning with fresh food, and said our goodbyes, and sailed down the Zadarski Kanal. We call them channels, but the Croats call them Kanals. A short stop off for a swim and lunch on the way down off an island called Makija. We arrived and tied up to a buoy in Landin for the evening at 7pm. A long afternoon, and 22 miles sailed from Preko. Karen cooked sea bass in tin foil, onboard. It was very tasty.

It was quite windy through the night, and I was glad to be on a buoy! The temperature was cool. We sailed all morning, through many islands and stopped for lunch off Skala. At just after 3pm we entered the Kornati islands, a national park, and noted by the islands lack of vegetation. They look as if they have all been 'shaved'. At 5.30pm we anchored in Sipnate, in the Kornati, and we expected to stay amongst these islands for two nights. Dinner onboard, and we played Mexican Dominoes.

Next morning Brian and I set off across to the nearest island in the dink. We wanted to walk up the hills and see the islands from a high level. The going was hard. The rocks were grey and very hard, and sharp. In between there was some thin grasses, but rock everywhere. The views were spectacular. I've attached a photo on this site, which should come up in a day or so. (That's care of Steve, our absent web site controller. Thanks Steve)

We left about noon, and sailed through the islands, and out into the Adriatic to see the cliff faces of some of the outer islands. There was a good wind blowing and it made for a good sail. Lunch was in Vruje, at anchor, and Barbara took the chance for a swim. By early evening at 6.20pm we were ready for a stop, as we had tried to find an anchorage before, but there was no room! Here we anchored in O. Ravni Zakan in 8.5m and let out 40m of chain. This was the best place we could find, and we were aware that the weather forecast was for southerly winds changing to northerly ones in the morning, up to about 20 knots. In the event, the wind didn't go as thought, and we had 32+ knot winds! (Brian won the outstanding completion of the Mexican Dominoes)

I had little sleep, and we all suffered some loss of sleep that night. It was (looking back) spectacular. We had very strong winds blowing us around, in absolute darkness.There was no moon, and all we could see was the anchor lights of three other yachts about the bay, and a couple of shore lights against a taverna left on. It was black, and made the experience all the more dramatic. If a bit scary. Early in the morning, as light came up, we moved at 6.30am and took hold of a buoy around the other side of the island for a couple of hours, before setting off for Primosten. A good sail running with wind that morning took us most of the way, and the engine the rest. Primosten was lovely, but the harbour was full or reserved. I kicked myself, for not asking the lad on the harbour, if the 100 kuma note in my pocket was not his. Maybe his 'reserved' places would have cleared suddenly! Anyway, we motored around to Kremik Marina, and found a good place to leave Janika. Then a taxi ride took us to Primosten, where we enjoyed dinner. We also took a walk up to the church and saw the place from the top of the penninsular.

On Friday 29 July, we sailed again and through many yachts, and even a rain shower. But, that cleared and we took a place in the harbour at Malinica on the island of Solta. A very nice quay, and it was nearly full by night fall. We needed our sleep after the previous night too.

In the morning B&B and Karen took a swim, while I collected our transit log from the office.

Another nice sail, if gentle, to Trogir. Barbara helmed again, for it would be remiss of me not to mention that Barbara has helmed on other days, and shown a talent for the job, which many with some practice fail to do!

All too soon, it was an arrival at Trogir, and after struggling to find anyone to take notice of us, including sounding our horn, we parked up and told them we had arrived. That was about 2.20pm, and we lunched before having a look around the lovely town of Trogir. It is a Medieval city, complete with narrow streets and very complete old buildings and castle. It is, a very worthwhile place to see. I had strawberries and icecream on my way round. Great.

In the evening we enjoyed a lovely dinner ashore, in a restaurant close to the town quay, in lovely surroundings. It was a great way to finish off our week's sailing together. But, difficult to believe it had all gone so quickly.

In the morning we all walked to the bus station, where the bus would take B&B to Zadar in three hours, a journey that had taken us a week!

We waved goodbye. And knew we would see our friends in Cheltenham soon.

We set off at 9.15 and made our way south through the islands. During the morning making only 2 knots at times, in a 4-5 knot north wind in a calm sea. But we didn't mind. It was lovely, almost drifting along, reading our books, and enjoying the scenery, of green covered islands and very few signs of residential life. Then, we were both looking the same way, and over the starboard beam were several dolphins playing, or maybe feeding. Whatever, they were doing, they were having fun. One leapt up in the air, so that it was as much clear of the water, as its length. And then another leapt and another! They dashed about and we have never seen such a display as that before, by dolphins. (We once saw a swordfish leap into the air twice also, in Greece.) So much energy.

There were several boats about, but many were motor boats and they go so fast, that they miss it all.

In the afternoon, the wind increased, and we carried on doing 5 knots, which helped us on our way. By the time we anchored between two small islands, Krknata and Krava we had done a 25 mile run, and were satisfied with that.

The position we anchored was important, because the weather forecast was "southeast turning southwest and increasing to 24 knots, with thunderstorms." And that's what we got. Well up to 28 knots at one stage!

Shortly before sunset a small Austrian yacht came and anchored in front of us. They gave a wave as they went by, a good sign. Although, I did wonder why he had to go in front of us, when there was plenty of water around. Before it got dark, 'Renee' came over in his dink, and I asked if he had seen the weather forecast. He said that he had. Anyway, we invited him and his wife (Monica) onboard for a drink, and then had a good evening chatting away, and sharing experiences.

During the night it rained, so much that we knew it would give Janika a good clean, but at 4.30am we had thunder and lightening, and the wind increased and pushed us all over. Most of the time, I was watching Renee and Monica's boat, both to make sure it was not going to hit us, and also that we were not dragging as well. We have had worse, but it was the third serious thunderstorm which Croatia is known for, and another poor nights sleep.

The day passed, and boats came out, but during the course of the morning five other yachts and motor boats anchored near us, rather then brave the strong wind still coming down from the north. By the afternoon, it settled and we departed and said goodbye to Renne and Monica. Who, then gave us a brochure all about Renee the artist! It appears that he has exhibited all over the world, and is known as the light trapper. You just don't know who is about you!

After an eventful afternoon, where we got caught by a squall, things did settle down and we enjoyed a peaceful gentle sail through more islands just a line away from the Kornati islands, and found a buoy to tie up to in Landin, just on the southern tip of Pasman. We needed a good sleep. Its tiring work you know!

Next morning, thursday 21 July we stopped in Pakostone on the mainland for some provisions, and then sailed all the way up to Preko. Tacking our way up, with some other yachts. Beautiful. We anchored in the small harbour at Preko in 4 metres amongst a busy holiday atmosphere, and watched the sun go down as we read our books. Karen is reading 'Down Deep' a good read about whales and environmental issues, and I'm reading Shackleton, and another called 'The Tourist' both quite different, so it helps to switch from time to time.

Today we upped anchor and pulled into Preko Marina where we have been before and where we shall go over by ferry to Zadar and meet Brian and Barbara on Sunday. Now, we can prepare and enjoy the peace of this marina.

Preko is on the island of Ugljan which means Olive Island, so you can guess what many people do for work here.

We had two nights in Rovinj. It allowed us to catch up on things. Especially as we bought a Croatian dongle. So now we can access the internet more readily. Our freezer is really struggling to keep things frozen. The heat is affecting it, and it does have a small leak, we know, as we recharged it in Greece before we left.

On the night of 14 July we anchored across from the Brioni islands where Tito did all his entertaining after the Second World War.

The sunset was brilliant.

Next morning however, there was a bit of a blow. We went out for an hour but after passing Pula harbour entrance, and trying to see how Janika fared outside, the sea was heavy, very heavy. We had been out an hour, and Janika rolled strongly from one side to the other. Gunale to gunale. That's the bit of wood on the side. I heard a yelp from below. Karen was trying to keep the interior in place, and failing. So, we decided it wasn't worth it, and motored into Pula harbour, and spent the day and night there. When I went down below, I found everything had fallen out of the book cases, some cupboards, and there was a complete mess all over. Another boat did the same, so we agreed it was to rough to be out.

Another day in Pula was a delight, because it's not really a tourist town, but normal people live there.

We have been doing a lot of sailing this trip, and our return was no different. A lot of close hauling, but good medium strength winds, and often kind seas.

A lovely evening in Losinj in a bay with 20 other boats, was another delight. First, we anchored on some rocks, and Karen, who was not a happy bunny, donned snorkel and went to find out where we were. She confirmed her suspicions. There was a lot of rocks around, and places where our anchor could get caught, and difficult to recover. I pulled up the anchor, while Karen swam around, watching, and directing the best place for us to move to. Only 20 metres away, she found lovely sand, and we dropped anchor and were set for the night.

On Sunday 17 July we sailed to Otok Olib, although, not deliberately, it was a convenient place to go to bearing in mind the wind, and our wish to go south. We found a very small islet, and were drawn to the turquoise waters around, and anchored in 4 metres. Here, we were off the main island, but in shallow water, with anchor well dug in. Swimming that evening was a delight, and after a fresh water shower, dinner and a glass of wine. It doesn't get much better than that. I even won a backgammon, and that'd not often.

At 3am in the morning I was woken by a noise the anchor chain makes when its not happy. And, it was a good warning to me that the wind was freshening. So, confident though we were about our holding, we had a fitfull sleep for the hours before breakfast. However, all was well. We were getting very short of provisions, and so called into the main, the only village on Otok Olib, called Olib. It was an island that the residents bought from the owner in 1900, and in fact followed the trend of the neighbouring island Silba, where they too had bought their island from an old sea captain in 1854! The island of Olib used cooperatives to the benefit of them all.

After the ferry had arrived we left, and sailed off south again.

Today, Monday 18 July we have sailed 18 miles since 12.45pm until arriving here at Prolaz Zapuntel at 17.05pm, averaged over 4 knots, about 4.5 miles per hour. And you wouldn't believe how much excitement we've had in that time. With boats sailing close by, ferries passing with rough wash to throw us about, and winds up to 20 knots at times.

We arrived at this place, with the catchy name, (Prolaz Zapuntel) actually, if you came back from the doctor, and said to your family, " he says, I've got a prolaz zapuntel". They would probably believe you! Anyway,it was about 4.30pm, and you enter a narrow channel, where the pilot book says, "approaching from the west, requires care and good visibility, because of the various rocks, shoals and islets. The location of these dangers, is best seen from the chart". And it goes on. I'm surprised that we are hear at all! And it is worth the effort, and concentration, because as you come through the channel, it opens up into a pair of bays facing each other, north and south. In each they have placed some buoys, and so we now lie to a buoy, surrounded by pine clad edges, and the sweet sound of hundreds of chicadas! It is lovely. Really. I've got photo to prove it. The man came around about 7pm with his receipt book, and asked :how many metres do you want to be?" I was tempted to say 5metres, costing 15kuna per metre, but decided that cheek and the wrong language don't mix. Anyway, tonight, we should sleep like babies, and wake up feeling full of get up and go. It will make up for this morning.

So, we wish you goodnight to all, and may all your dreams be sweet ones....

After Nic and Ollie left us, we decided to leave Sibenik and find an anchorage somewhere, northbound. A night in a bay by Tijesno was just right, and we enjoyed a peaceful night. Next morning, anticipating passing through the bridge between Murter and the mainland, we found that the depths of water were less than our vessels draft! So, we went around the outside. (These pilot books are good sometimes.)

Another couple of nights at anchor and we pulled into Preko marina under a drizzle of rain, and tied up. Despite the rain, it looked our sort of place. Small, just enough shops and services and friendly people. And it was. The marina staff were very friendly and efficient.

Here we met with Stuart, his wife Marjorie and friend Laura. We had arranged to meet up with them before and we spent two delightful evenings with all three, swopping stories, and listening to there local advice. All very useful, and particularly nice to be with English people, as we haven’t seen or met many at all, this trip. Too many Germans and Austrians, which amounts the same thing. (Nothing wrong individually. Just the sheer numbers, a bit overwhelming!) They say, the Italians are coming over in July and August. It sounds like we need to be prepared for an armada. We’ll, we know what happened to the last one!

Karen lost a bit of a tooth, so made an appointment to return here. It is so close and handy to Zadar, which is where we shall pick up B & B (Brian and Barbara) in about three weeks. In fact, the ferry services are so good, we might go over and bring them back on the ferry to Preko. Much better.

Our neighbours here on the boat next door, Luciana and Raymond, from Belgium, but living in Italy. Lovely couple.

Two more nights on found us in Z.Pantera on the north of the island of Dugi Otok. Sounds like a chaps name! But is a lovely island, and we must go and see more. We paid for a buoy overnight here, because if you didn’t, you couldn’t stay. But it was nice. Fantastic sunset. Maybe that’s what we paid for!

Next night, another buoy, about £14.00 this time, less. In the channel beside Ilovik and another small island. The place was nearly full. We arrived at 4.30pm and managed to get a buoy towards the end of the line. At least it kept us away from any noise and, when we went ashore we parked the dink, and walked in, which was a good way to see the place. Overnight we had thunderstorms and rain like I’ve only had so close once before, (near Rafti – another story), but this one frightened me more. The storm lasted from 2am and it was still raining at 9am. I was concerned about a direct hit, and the fact that we had a lightening conductor did little to allay my fears! Later, the day turned out bright and warm. We decided to stay, and enjoyed lunch ashore, and in the evening a light dinner which was to prove very fortunate. As we met an Italian couple, who suggested a marina we might stay at in Venice. It was not listed in out pilot book, but we found out in a few days that it was very good, and spent three nights there! Thank you.

On 7 July we anchored in the harbour at Pula. Here, when you park up, you are looking at a great big amplitheatre. In fact the sixth biggest in the world, and some say one of the best preserved. We had to have a look inside, and were rewarded with a marvellous experience. Such a breathtaking place and right in front of the harbour. It held 20,000 spectators in it’s day, and today hosts all kinds of theatrical events. We liked Pula. An ice-cream here, and a coffee there. The Forum, still called the same name as the Romans had named it, was attractive. In the morning we filled up with diesel, and paid just £1.13/litre for the privilege. Pula has a large ship building industry, and we saw the works as we passed in and out. Onto Rovinj.

On our way along the coast, we passed by Brioni, which is where Tito entertained heads of state and kings and queens, during his reign. We had visited Brioni in 2006 whilst crewing with Luigi, so it was nice to see it again.

We parked in the anchorage at Rovinj at 2pm. Went ashore in the dink to have our papers stamped, as we wanted to leave Croatia and sail over to Venice, just 55 miles away. The harbour master did her bit, but we still had to be at the harbourmaster mole just before departure, and see the police. We had our pudding ashore in the evening, as Karen prepared main course onboard. The place was a bustle, in fact, it was bustling all over. There were people everywhere. We particularly enjoyed watching the sunset. That was the best bit.

Next morning we checked out with the police at 6am. In fact we just caught him, and he was off some where, so I don’t know how long we would have waited, if we had missed him, then.

We mostly motor sailed across to Venice, as the swell was causing us to roll, and we needed the engine to give us the speed. With that we went over at 6 knots mostly and got there in ten hours. We first tried the Grando marina which was in our pilot book, but it looked small, there were no big yachts, so we were concerned about depth of water, too small, for us, and had poles between berths, which we don’t like.

So, here comes the recommendation we received from the nice Italian couple, and we found Marina Fiorita a mile further on. By the way, by this time we had no charted depths, and so were going on echo sounder only!

The marina was a delight. It was everything we wanted. It was small, but deep enough for our draft, and the marinero gave us a berth on the inside of the outside pontoon, just across from a large motor yacht. So, we were in posh company.

I could talk about Venice for hours, so won’t. I proposed to Karen in Venice, just under the Adam and Eve statute on the corner of the Doges Palace, six years ago on 1 May. It is a special place for us.

We bought a 36 hour vaporetto pass, to have opeb access to the waterbuses that ply to and fro. On the first day, we visited Murano, where we saw the glass factories, and had lunch; in the afternoon we returned to Janika to rest a little, and in the evening we took the vaporetto to Burano and had dinner. On the next day, we visited Venice and walked and walked and walked. St, Mark’s Square; The Rialto Bridge, of course, and also the Peggy Gugganheim Art Museum, as the major art gallery I wanted to see at the Academia Bridge was closed again.(It happened last time too!)

In the evening we dinned at the restaurant by the marina, and it was so good, in all respects, that I can’t say a thing!

Next morning we were up early, and we left the channel marker outside the Veneta Lagoon at 7.43am, about an hour since we left the marina.

Ten hours later at 5.50pm we tied up at the harbourmaster’s mole to have our papers stamped again on entering Croatia. By 6.20 we were anchored in the bay. It had been a very hot day. Air temperatures up to 33.5 degrees and water temperatures 35 degrees! We haven’t been so hot since Turkey. And the freezer was struggling to work properly.

A fantastic visit to Venice, and we were so pleased to have been back. This time by boat.

My request to "wait a minute" has I notice been lost in the ether. So, a continuation.

It's the best bit of the trip!

We left Sv. Nikola and motored through the Sibenik channel, and then into the Krka river. Under a bridge which in the middle is 30 metres high, and still gives me minor worries as Janika at 18metres from the waterline passes underneath. Then through into the river proper, and a series of twisting turns passing through high edged rocky hills, and tight bends until the river opens up into a small lake about 2 miles x 1 mile across, and then into the river again. Another 30 metre bridge, and as we turn round the bend a sight to behold, as Skradin appears in view. Even Nikki was impressed and reached for her camera as she saw the large motor boats berthed there. It was oly Karen and my second time here in Skradin, but we already knew how we liked the fresh clean water, and how it cleaned off the salt so well on your boat. It has to be said, that Ollie and Nikki entered into the boat cleaning job with a willing enthusiasm, and with the four of us all swilling water everywhere, Janika got the full treatment. I'm sure I received a purposeful jet of water from Nikki, at one stage, and got her back later on. Good fun when it's so warm.

That evening we dinned at 'Bonaca' and enjoyed a delicious meal in good company.

We were up early, and had breakfasted when we boarded the ferry which would take us up to the Krka Waterfalls at 8am. There was only one family of six that joined us, and within twenty minutes we were alighting the ferry and taking our first sight of the falls. It is difficult to over emphasize the wonder of those falls. There are so many gushing levels of water that cascade down the staircase of rocks, which have formed travertine surfaces over time. I wouldn't normally, get so excited, but would about these. They are to be recommended for a visit. In all we spent three hours looking around, and walking all around the various levels, and seeing buildings where people once had a community. A blacksmith's; a corn mill; and that was so interesting because it consisited of seven separate mills, where on the day, one was open and actually miling wheat.

To top the visit, Nikki; Ollie and I went in for a swim at the bottom of the falls. And a few others did too. There was a line of floating buoys across the bay, to stop you going too close to the falls themselves. I struggled to swim to that line, because the current caused by the waterfalls was so strong. In the end I made it. Ollie was already there! And Nikki soon joined us too.

A great day, and it was only twelve o'c;ock.

Lunch with parma ham, cheese, olives, onion, fresh bread and Prosec wine was had. That's all 'Mate' the family taverna offer! You need nothing else.

In the afternoon, Ollie steered Janika all the way down river to Sibenik. The wind was blowing strong and we decided to berth at the marina, rather than take the harbour quay, which was too exposed for us.

When we entered the marina the wind was still strong, and I messed up a bit on the boat handling skills. Another yacht tried to come in behind us, and he didn't help. Apparently he got into trouble too, but I was to busy watching to our needs!

As Janika approached the finger berth head on to the wind, her stern came over and towards the finger pontoon on the other side. Karen, bless her, jumped into action. Literally! She climbed over the rail and jumped onto the pontoon, to push Janika off and prevent the boat's hull getting scraped along the pontoon's edge. Imagine Karen, feet on the pontoon, hands on the boat pushing the boat away. It was like one of those 'Tom and Jerry' cartoons where you guessed it. Tom falls into the water. And that's what happened to Karen. Anyway, we got Janika tied up. Unbeknown to me, a German gentleman pulled Karen out of the water. When I then saw her, she was standing there like a drowned rat, beside two marineros, telling them that they should not have allowed the other boat to come in, and so on... I walked over, and gently suggested a shower followed by a good alcoholic drink. And that's what happened. Later on, I couldn't help noticing, that as Karen had obviously felt it important to stay on the bank and take photos of us at the water falls, she made up for it, and had a dip in the marina instead. We all had laugh, and Karen and I thought afterwards that Nikki and Ollie would remember our arrival at Sibenik!

At last we have a good internet connection. We arrived in Preko this morning, which is a nice little village with a small marina on the island of Ugljan. We are just three miles across the water from Zadar.

So much to say, about our recent adventures. But, I'll be brief!

On 15 June we left Sibenik and went up the Krka river to Skradin, where we decided it would be a good place to bring Nic and Ollie, and so left the visit to the Krka Waterfalls until they were with us. Over a few days we cleaned Janika up in the nice fresh water of the river. No salt! And we made friends with a family of swans and thier three signets. In one day, they came to see us seven times!

Whilst anchored at Skradin we had heavy rain, and a squall which caused another yacht (37 ft) to drag her anchor, and Karen saw it first, as I was taking photos of the tripper boat returning in the heavy squall, with thunder and lightening all around us. The yacht was unmanned, and we protected Janika's hull from the yacht hitting us with fenders, and I managed to get a line onto her cleat, and tie it onto ours amidships. Once this was done, I went on her deck and fixed another rope onto her bow so that we could loose it at will. Anyway, by now, she was safe tied onto us, as long as our anchor held. I thought she would as we had dug in well. A little while later we saw two men frantically rowing towards us, and we realised this was the yachts crew. They we very gratful to see her safe, and knew that if we had not caught hold, she would be aground somewhere! Karen gave them some advice!!!!

After our fresh water excusions we went outside Sibenik to see the islands, and found interesting places. Particularly at Hramina, where Karen asked the coastguard to advise a good place to eat, and we had dinner of sea bass fillets on my 57th birthday, with a strawberry sweet. 'Konoba Boba' is the restaurant, and worth a repeat on our way back down the coast.

On 22 June we picked up Nic and Ollie on the quayside in Sibenik at just before noon, and we motored off through the channel and anchored by Fort Nikola (appropriate) and had lunch, and a chance to brief on our coming five days together.

We sailed off and found good winds. Later the wind moderated and we changed our intended destination, and anchored in 11m in a bay on the east side of the island of Kaprije. A swim was in order, and we were surprised by the speed in which Ollie and Nic jumped straight into the water. It was about 29 degrees. We spent the night there, on our own, apart from a small boat up the way.

Next day, (thursday) we sailed to the Kornati islands. These are in a National Park, and highly regarded. The best way that I can describe them is to relate a legend. That they emerged by chance when God created the world. 140 pebbles fell out of his pocket and, when he turned round to pick them up, he was surprised with what he saw and he said: "Let them stay, nothing needs repair here."

We sailed all the way through these 'shaved' islands, consisting of sage and thin grass, and few trees. Anchored in Gunak, and had more swimming, in clear waters. That evening Nic and Ollie took the dink to book a table for dinner at a taverna. When they returned, they explained that the menu consisted of "fish or lamb, but there's no lamb!" So, we went ashore and enjoyed a fish dinner. Oh, and played a game of mexican dominoes.

Next stop was at Zut, where the wind blew up, and Karen and I were concerned that we were dragging our anchor. So, we told Nic and Ollie that we were going to move. They stayed in bed, and at ten minutes past midnight we raised anchor and dropped it a mile further north on the opposite side of the bay. We kept a watch, and so did not get much sleep that night! At 5am we decided to leave, the wind was still blowing, but the light was just begining to show, and we wanted to reach the Krka River later this day. Again, we told Nic and Ollie we were moving, and they stayed in bed. Then began a long day, where we motored out into the open, and found strong breezes and moderate swell, and headed off towards the lee of some islands five miles away. Then we put up the smallest of main and genoa sails and during the morning with mostly a beam reach, sailed in force 7 and sometimes 8 making over five knots. I explained to Nic and Ollie that we were in gale force winds, but they were both quite relaxed. Nic said she trusted me! Nice. Lifejackets we worn, as Janika rode the waves. Thankfully, and very importantly, there was only a modest swell, and it showed how sailing through the islands can be exhilarating, but safe. We stopped before lunch in a little bay, where the wind was blowing 36 knots as we entered. It was called Nikola. A popular name out here. Of course St. Nicolas is the patron saint of sailors, and so it was reassuring to us all.

More in a minute...

Sibenik - Prounounced ‘SH’ ibenik.



We did buy some Grk wine in a small winery in Lumbarda. We haven’t tried it yet, but as they have been making it for over 2,300 years, I guess they have got the hang of it by now! We’ll save it for when Nikki and Ollie arrive in just about a weeks time now.



Shortly after leaving Lumbarda we motored through the islands and passed close to Korcula town. It looked stunning from the sea, and I took a photo of ‘Seacloud 11’ which looked like the type of cruise ship you would want to go on. I’ll have to remember to look it up on the net.



We had a great days sail, most close hauled at about 45 degrees in 20 knot winds, and Janika did a healthy 6 knots, without leaning over too much.

As happens the seas got ever bigger and eventually we decided to motor in the the island of Scedro, but still tacking Janika to keep our speed as good a we could.



Anchored in a small bay just after 5pm and let out 40m chain in 9m depth. There were a couple of restaurants close by with buoys to tie on to, but we preferred to make our own dinner, and so looked after our own mooring at anchor. All of the boats at buoys were German, and we just didn’t feel like it that night.



On the 10th, Friday we did a short hop to Hvar, as the weather was forecast to deteriorate, later on. Arrived in Hvar where we did tie up to a buoy at 1pm. It looked lovely. A really nice harbour surrounded by 16th century buildings, all built after the Turks razed it to the ground earlier on. (I won’t say much about the Turks, because I’m reading a book called ‘Paradise Lost’ and what the Turks did, can not be said here!) Let’s just say, that I’m reassessing my views about them.



Hvar is a beautiful place, and the square which leads to the Cathedral is just the right size, and form. One feels comfortable there at once, and the bustle around makes it right.

The afternoon weather did bring the expected heavy swell, and so we spent an uncomfortable night, if safe tied to our buoy (£35.00).

Also, there was too much noise, from the bells, and too early in the morning at 6am!



We must return to Hvar on our way back, as we left some things to see. But in the morning after a trip to the bakery, we departed for Otok Drenik Veli, and had a great sail, until the wind freshened up to 26 knots, and we motored into a little village harbour, and anchored right in the middle of it, with a view all around of the houses and shops. Giving the people a great view of us too!

Later on we recorded 22 knots in the harbour and wondered what it was like outside!

When we awoke in the morning, care of the bells, and found three more yachts and a cat that had tied up against the key, over the far side. We had decided that was too choppy, and anchored. A lot of people don’t like anchoring, and so it gives us some benefits.



On Sunday 12 June we enjoyed a great sail to Primosten, and here made a mistake of anchoring, when we should have gone into the harbour! Because the winds came up again and brought a swell into the beach area on the other side of the harbour. Mind you, it was popular, because alter on there were 22 yachts at anchor with us!

In the morning it was calm, no-one else had dragged there anchor during the night, after the antics of the afternoon. And there were plenty. It made for good afternoon entertainment!



On Monday morning after a wlk up the church to see the view, and collect provisions, we called into Kremik Marina to find out about getting a licence to visit the Kornati islands. It seems that we must wait to obtain a permit just before we go. So, we’ll do that later on. Then onto Sibenik, and another lovely sail, which through the islands became more challenging as we tacked back and forth towards the channel which leads to Sibenik town.

We tied up to the harbour quay, where a big friendly fellow called Vladimer welcomed us to his home town. With a £37.00 charge for the night. (Welcome to Croatia!) However, he did give us a map of the town, and tell us where to go for the market in the morning.

We are parked just a three minute walk from the Cathedral which, is the most important piece of Renaissance architecture in Croatia, and a charming medieval old town. The town overall suffered a lot in the 91/92 war, but is now coming back. It is not really a tourist town, and for that is better, as you can see the way of life.

This morning we went to the market and enjoyed the hustle and bustle which you see in markets everywhere. Bought a chicken, which managed to get cut in half.

Just had a call for skype, must go!!!

Wednesday 8th June 2011



Yes. We made it to Croatia and arrived in Cavtat our Port of Entry a week ago! Our crossing over the Adriatic was good in parts. First time out of Erikoussa we turned back after a couple of hours, because I was feeling sick, and didn’t want to be a handicap on this important leg. So, another night in the Erikoussa anchorage and we then had a good sail, making Cavtat in 36 hours. The bit towards our arrival was a sloppy sea, and that made my stomach churn over and I’m only really just over all that now, a week later.



We found an alternative to the main marina in Dubrovnik, and berthed in a local yacht club called Orsan, which was right across from the cruise ship berths. We had some interesting times watching the comings and goings.

Dubrovnik was an impressive place, and we enjoyed a trip around the maritime museum, telling us all about the Town.

There are lots of tourists though, and we were glad to get away from them.



Over the next few days we made some interesting stops and anchored in them all.

Sudurad in Sipan; Broce on Poluotok Peljesac, and then a dinghy trip down to Ston which Napolean apparently wanted more than Dubrovnik, because of the massive salt pans there. Trstenik, also on Peljesac. And we have sailed most of the way, as the winds have been favourable.



I’m now reading a book by Misha Glenny called ‘ The Fall of Yugoslavia” which is a good accompaniment to our travels along this coast of Croatia. So sad to see the empty houses, falling down and dilapidated once lived in by the Serbs.



Now we are berthed in a small marina in Lumbarda on the island of Korcula. (Prounounced Kortula). Two nights here, to enjoy Korcula Town, which we saw yesterday, just a fifteen minute bus ride away. Today, we shall go visiting some winemakers around here in Lumbarda.



On to the wineries!