We arrived in Lefkas marina, on the island of Lefkada yesterday, 13 August.
We are glad to be here in, what is over recent years our second home, and it is nice to meet people you know, and have a friendly word.
Our trip from Montenegro started well. We left Bar marina early morning, as we knew that a gale was due to pass through the Adriatic on the next day. Most of the way, the winds were so light that we motored, as we wanted to keep up to about a 5-6 knot speed, and arrive off Erikoussa island about 30 miles north of Corfu after 24 hours. There we would be able to pull in, and wait for the gale to pass, before moving onto Corfu.
We kept rough watches, according to how we felt, and managed some sleep. There is not much at Erikoussa, and we did arrive off the island in the early morning. While still dark we were in very strong winds, and a rough following sea. Janika was surfing across the top of the waves as they passed underneath her hull. It's quite a nice experience in daylight, but a bit more scary in darkness. As well as that, there was a clutch of ships passing by, and although, that's the part I don't mind, Karen feels differently, and so was on edge as they passed by, bow waves could be seen, and they seemed bigger in the dark.
We decided to press on as Erikoussa came up, and as we were 'out there' in it, to keep going. There's a poem by Robert Browning I think, about that moment, when things a getting bad, that just at that moment, things suddenly improve. That's what happened to us, and the winds dropped, the sea eased, and we found ourselves a few hours later in a calm sea with hardly any wind.
By early afternoon we had anchored in the bay behind the town of Corfu. By then it was blowing strongly again, and we realised that the gale had arrived, and we were experiencing the less affects of it in the sheltered anchorage off Corfu. Sheltered it might be, but still force six, and more worrying most of us seemed to be anchored in weed! Twice we dragged through the weed, before we found a patch of sand. Well, Karen found the sand. (Karen is good on sand and rocks! - specialist subjects) We didn't get off Janika for 24 hours, but enjoyed listening to the brass band who were playing in th band stand in one of the biggest town squares in the Med. It's beautiful.
We managed to get ashore on the night of the 11th, and took Karen for a birthday dinner at 'La Cantina' (The Kitchen) where we have been before. The Romanian waitress remembered us, which was nice.
Next morning, we sailed to Paxos, and enjoyed a day there.
Onwards on 13th, we motored and sailed to Lefkas. By the time we approached the sand spit of the channel which leads to Lefkas, we were sailing at up to 7.4 knots on small sails! There were at least 20 boats waiting to pass through the channel waiting for the bridge to open in a very tight little harbour, (old Roman) before the bridge. And, before that is the narrow opening which you have to navigate around a moving sand spit, where many have gone aground. As well, A 25+ wind blowing, trying to push you off! Sometimes, you think, "why an I doing this'? But for me, not one of them. I don't like rough seas, it makes me feel sick. But, Karen doesn't like this. So, she was getting more animated. Moving around the boat, looking at everything. Giving me plenty of advice. Mostly, don't go there, don't do here. In fact, don't go anywhere! If Karen had a loud hailer, I'm sure she would be conducting the other boats as well! I decided to go, through the narrow pass, by the sand spit, as there was a gap, and many of the boats were keeping back, worried about the tight space and many boats inside the harbour. At the same time, we are all waiting for the bridge to open. But it was passed the hour, when the bridge opens, and I knew it would be soon. Once inside the harbour, the sea was subdued, but the winds still kept trying to push us off. The boat behind me was struggling to keep his line, as I was, because the Greek in front was not moving fast enough, but he too, had a boat in front of him that was not moving fast enough, and had a big gap in front. Actually, a loud hailer would have helped! Our bow thruster helped to keep our line, and soon all the boats were moving along through the bridge. Then another bunch of boats came through the other way. It was all great fun! (I SAY NOW!)
We anchored in the Lefkas harbour while the wind dropped and then motored into the marina. As soon a sI called up on the VHF and Janika Lycka, actually, I said Janika leaka, because that's how the Greeks say it, there was an instant response of welcome, and we were told that we were able to go into our own berth.
We were home. And really glad to be so. Our home in Greece that is.
A pizza with a sorrento salad fitted the bill, and a walk through the main street afterwards suited us for dinner. And we slept till 9.30 this morning!
Now, we start preparing Janika for the winter lay up. She is booked in to be lifted out next Friday 19 August, and we shall depart Lefkas on 22nd. Over that period there is much to do, so this will be the last blog this season.
Until the next time...........
Best Wishes to all.
Nigel & Karen

It’s a Country few have visited. But on our little evidence, certainly worth a look.
It contains only 650,000 people, is made up of hills and mountains and a small coastline. With 70 mountain peaks over 2000 metres, they certainly define it well.
We spent two nights in Kotor which, lies under th Lovcen mountain. It is a walled city, developed within a little triangular space, surrounded by the city’s wall, which reaches the fortress of St. Ivan at 260metres high.
Karen and I walked up the supposed 1400 steps to the fortress, along with several other misguided souls! Actually, the fortress is nothing to get excited about, but the views are spectacular. And that satisfied feeling of having done it too. Take plenty of water with you, and preferably go early before the sun gets up. Best of all, buy a nice coffee in the city square, and look at the postcards of the view from the top. It’s less stressful.
The berth for Janika was located just across the road from the old city, and the market, where we bought fresh wild strawberries, wild raspberries, fresh honey, and in the end I almost had to physically stop Karen from buying stuff, because she was so excited about all there was. Fresh, and local, from the mountain people. The prices were good too.
We visited the Cathedral, St. Tryphon, and were pleased with its interior design and the way in which it had been restored over the years after many earthquakes too. The last in 1979! I said a few words for my Uncle Graham.
It was the sort of place that we could have spent another couple of days, and maybe entered into the mountains with a car. But time was running out, and we made for Risan, where we passed by Perast, where the islands of Gospa od Skrpjela and St. George sit, apparently on top of old captured pirate ships which were then sunk on to a reef, where now sits a church. Each year there is a ceremony, where people take a stone to leave on the reef, and build it up.
The night at Risan, was spoilt by youngsters in a bar playing the National Anthem we deduced about 20 times over at full volume, but suddenly it stopped and all was well. Until early morning when the Bora wind blew for a few hours and disturbed our sleep.
Next day, Sunday we left the Kotor bay, and motored down the coast, and stopped in a place where the ‘A’ list stars are said to go. Sv. Stefan. We parked in 15 metres in a lovely bay close to two beaches, which were lightly covered with pairs of sunbeds and straw parasols, neatly placed, with a distance from each other for privacy. The hotel looked very tasteful too, set in green gardens with clipped grass, and so many different shades of green trees all around. I looked for Sofia Loren as the book said, but she was not there that day!
On to Bar, the biggest commercial port in Montenegro. And, the place where in a couple of days that we shall depart Montenegro, and leave, if they’ll let us!
Once tied up, we met Molly and Stephen from Vancover. I asked when they left Vancover, and they said, 1999. Not much you can follow that with! We were invited for drinks onboard and enjoyed an early evening with them before returning onboard Janika for dinner. And sleep. We are sleeping so much. It might be the heat.
Just back from a walk around Bar. It's not smart. It's not even halfway. When you realise the best part the best part of Bar is the Hyper market, you get an idea. However, one needs to get things into perspective! This was a Communist Country, and has not had as long to adjust as Croatia. The buildings show it too. The authority buildings like hospital etc are 'architect' designed, and look like concrete bunkers, with fins on the side. Most people live in high concrete tower blocks, and the contrast with the surroundings could hardly be more stark. They are beautiful. The buildings are not. I get annoyed about our Country's buildings too, and those people, who were/are responsible as well. In fact, back to Montenegro, the medieval city of Kotor has all you need in terms of design, space for people to live. Everything in proportion. And now we have modern ammenities of services to make these old places buzz as well. So, why do we prefer to visit and live in these old places, rather then the new? Obviously, those ancestors of ours, knew something after all. And we've forgotten it. Sorry, I'll get off my box.
Chances are that the next blog will be from Greece, as we shall leave Bar tomorrow morning. We plan to skirt down the coast of Albania, just 15 miles off the coast. The territorial limit is 12 miles! And in 140 miles on, Erikousa, or another 30 miles Corfu. So Wednesday afternoon, we hope to park in the main harbour, just below the town.
We just love Greece. It will be nice to be back. And despite all their problems they keep smiling too.
I'm already thinking about their 'Mythos' beer. It is like nectar!!!!

After we said goodbye to Brian and Barbara, we popped across the road to the supermarket, got some provisions, and returned to Janika.
At 11.30am we departed Trogir and after clearing the canal, and rounding the island, put up the sails, and passed through the gap between Solta and Brac, and onto the island of Hvar, where we tied up to a stone wall, in the place of U. Stiniva. A small ten house bay with its own harbour wall. We had a swim in warm water and checked to see that our anchor was in a good place. It was. Just cleat of the small boats mooring gear laid on the sea bed. Shortly afterwards, we were joined by an old charter boat with ten Polish onboard. Very happy, and talented at playing the flute and guitar, which we enjoyed.
On Monday morning we were up early, and in less than two hours were passing by the town of Hvar, before ten o’clock. On then to the island of Korcula. We had a long way to go, and the wind was not helping, being straight ahead. Although we tried running along the hvar coast for a few hours, the wind, just wouldn’t give us the angle, so we motored until we approached the Peljesac Kanal where, the wind funnelled down beautifully, and we sailed under genoa sail alone, and enjoyed watching dozens of wind surfers, and dozens of kite surfers flying across the kanal. We moved over a little to avoid the mass but, inevitably some thought it good fun to see how close they could get to Janika, and those brave ones came on close. (Karen remained fairly calm! For those who know, she was very brave.)
The approach up to Korcula itself, is a wonderful vista, and I can’t help imagining how things must have looked when those great sailing ships were anchored in the bay, beside the town.
At about this point, the wind by now had freshened some more, (It always does when you are ending a passage!), and we brought some sail in, and still kept doing 5 knots. As we snaked through the islands towards Lumbarda we reduced sail more, and on a handkerchief of sail took Janika on past all the motor boats, (they have to give way to sail), and found a nice anchorage in Uvala Racisce, just a bend away from Lumbarda, where we moored in the marina on the way up.
That evening, we swam around the inlet, and had a chat to a couple of people on the way round. The inlet was a lovely area, surrounded by houses, enclosed by several varieties of green trees. By, late evening, some more yachts had joined us too. One, a bit too close, with people from Germany. Thank fully, the night passed by quietly, weather wise, and we enjoyed a good sleep. Actually, good sleep, good food, with changing scenery is a good recipe.
On Tuesday, we weighed anchor at 7.55am. By 9am we were outside, and dealing with 27 knot winds. It was that the wind was gusting between 7 knots and 27 knots that made choice of sail a problem, and frustrating. By then we had received the latest weather, and it was threatening 35 knot winds, in the afternoon. So, we headed for Miljet as a port of refuge. Later on the weather reduced and we continued on towards Dubrovnik. We anchored in a small bay at Kolocep.
It was not a peaceful night, and we had to re anchor, but by 9am on the morning of Wednesday 3 August, we were filling up with diesel at Orsan opposite the cruise ship berths, and Janika took nearly 200 litres. In Croatia the fuel prices are very reasonable. For example diesel at £1.15 per litre compared with Greece at £1.55 per litre.
We passed through the space between Dubrovnik and the island of Lokrum mid morning. Past ‘Seabourne Quest’ cruise ship and, several other large yachts, and a couple of motor yachts too. The another hour, and we anchored in Cavtat harbour which, would be our last night in Croatia. And, our chance to check out of the Country.
Karen treated us to a lovely dinner. We had mussles, even a couple of oysters to try, and beef steaks to follow. That used up our remaining Kuna currency beautifully, and washed down with Malvasia wine. The waiter’s service was exemplary, and that’s not said often. So, he benefited from Karen’s overflowing kuna too.
We returned to Janika under a sparkling star lit sky, in the dink, and another good nights sleep.
Next morning we checked out of Cavtat, and Croatia, thanked the harbourmaster for his lovely Country, and made off for Montenegro.
A variety of sailing and motoring took us along. We passed a magnificent three masted schooner with a blue ensign flying, and infact, she gave way to us, as we were sailing, and they were motoring, but the sight was fantastic. Waving both ways, me taking photos. I’ll try and put one on the site, it says more than words! We didn’t catch the name though. It was painted in gold.
At 2pm we rounded Rt Ostra on Croatia and entered Montenegro waters. Always a little anticipation on ones heart at these times. Wondering how they authorities will treat you. The first place we tried to berth, called Zelinika had enormous hard rubber fenders at large distances apart, so that we would have ended up in between against the concrete. Or worse, on one end and off the other. So, we decided to head for Kotor. At 5.50pm we entered the bay of Kotor, having had an amazing journey through the mountains! The best way I can describe the trip, is travelling through a succession of lakes, surrounded by high mountains, with small neighbourhoods along the way. It is like being in Norwegian fjords. But, warmer!
Again we passed by the Seabourne Quest cruise ship. As we did so, I just noticed a wash from the stern, and then, I saw the anchor being raised up into the hawse pipe, with gallons of water washing all the mud off. It was time to make a quick exit. So, after I took a photo, well you have to. We did, and berthed up stern to the quay in Kotor. We had had a long day, and were tired. But, we had to check into Montenegro!
I went ashore with all our papers. Found the harbour masters office, and found the door locked.
As I was looking at the notice, on the door. I can’t say reading, because it was all montenegren to me! The door opened, and there stood a lady all done up in full evening dress. I said something about, is this the harbour master office, fully expecting her to say, no. When, she said, yes, do come in. And locked the door behind me!
She took the papers, ship registration; insurance; passports, and asked for my certificate of competency (First time this year!) Copied them, while I filled in two documents. Then, having completed the forms, she asked the same questions again, and filled in some more. It was not as bad as Turkey. Nothing could be that bad! And, soon I was off to see the Police, and go through their checks too. I was soon back with Janika saying to Karen that we were all now legal, and I’d just seen the best dressed harbour master to date.

On Sunday 27 July, Karen and I took the ferry from Preko across to Zadar, about 30 minute trip. We had lunch in the Old Town, and then walked and walked and walked past lots of old, bullet holed blocks of flats, and some brand new blocks of flats, completed but almost empty. Work that one out! Probably the Local Authority inspired developments. The we found the main bus station and were just in time to meet Brian and Barbara (B&B) as they came off the bus from the airport. We had rain the previous night and it was overcast, but still warmish, as they arrived. Dinner that night at Jardin in Preko was a treat and good place to talk about the forthcoming week ahead.
On Monday the sun was out, and we completed our provisioning with fresh food, and said our goodbyes, and sailed down the Zadarski Kanal. We call them channels, but the Croats call them Kanals. A short stop off for a swim and lunch on the way down off an island called Makija. We arrived and tied up to a buoy in Landin for the evening at 7pm. A long afternoon, and 22 miles sailed from Preko. Karen cooked sea bass in tin foil, onboard. It was very tasty.
It was quite windy through the night, and I was glad to be on a buoy! The temperature was cool. We sailed all morning, through many islands and stopped for lunch off Skala. At just after 3pm we entered the Kornati islands, a national park, and noted by the islands lack of vegetation. They look as if they have all been 'shaved'. At 5.30pm we anchored in Sipnate, in the Kornati, and we expected to stay amongst these islands for two nights. Dinner onboard, and we played Mexican Dominoes.
Next morning Brian and I set off across to the nearest island in the dink. We wanted to walk up the hills and see the islands from a high level. The going was hard. The rocks were grey and very hard, and sharp. In between there was some thin grasses, but rock everywhere. The views were spectacular. I've attached a photo on this site, which should come up in a day or so. (That's care of Steve, our absent web site controller. Thanks Steve)
We left about noon, and sailed through the islands, and out into the Adriatic to see the cliff faces of some of the outer islands. There was a good wind blowing and it made for a good sail. Lunch was in Vruje, at anchor, and Barbara took the chance for a swim. By early evening at 6.20pm we were ready for a stop, as we had tried to find an anchorage before, but there was no room! Here we anchored in O. Ravni Zakan in 8.5m and let out 40m of chain. This was the best place we could find, and we were aware that the weather forecast was for southerly winds changing to northerly ones in the morning, up to about 20 knots. In the event, the wind didn't go as thought, and we had 32+ knot winds! (Brian won the outstanding completion of the Mexican Dominoes)
I had little sleep, and we all suffered some loss of sleep that night. It was (looking back) spectacular. We had very strong winds blowing us around, in absolute darkness.There was no moon, and all we could see was the anchor lights of three other yachts about the bay, and a couple of shore lights against a taverna left on. It was black, and made the experience all the more dramatic. If a bit scary. Early in the morning, as light came up, we moved at 6.30am and took hold of a buoy around the other side of the island for a couple of hours, before setting off for Primosten. A good sail running with wind that morning took us most of the way, and the engine the rest. Primosten was lovely, but the harbour was full or reserved. I kicked myself, for not asking the lad on the harbour, if the 100 kuma note in my pocket was not his. Maybe his 'reserved' places would have cleared suddenly! Anyway, we motored around to Kremik Marina, and found a good place to leave Janika. Then a taxi ride took us to Primosten, where we enjoyed dinner. We also took a walk up to the church and saw the place from the top of the penninsular.
On Friday 29 July, we sailed again and through many yachts, and even a rain shower. But, that cleared and we took a place in the harbour at Malinica on the island of Solta. A very nice quay, and it was nearly full by night fall. We needed our sleep after the previous night too.
In the morning B&B and Karen took a swim, while I collected our transit log from the office.
Another nice sail, if gentle, to Trogir. Barbara helmed again, for it would be remiss of me not to mention that Barbara has helmed on other days, and shown a talent for the job, which many with some practice fail to do!
All too soon, it was an arrival at Trogir, and after struggling to find anyone to take notice of us, including sounding our horn, we parked up and told them we had arrived. That was about 2.20pm, and we lunched before having a look around the lovely town of Trogir. It is a Medieval city, complete with narrow streets and very complete old buildings and castle. It is, a very worthwhile place to see. I had strawberries and icecream on my way round. Great.
In the evening we enjoyed a lovely dinner ashore, in a restaurant close to the town quay, in lovely surroundings. It was a great way to finish off our week's sailing together. But, difficult to believe it had all gone so quickly.
In the morning we all walked to the bus station, where the bus would take B&B to Zadar in three hours, a journey that had taken us a week!
We waved goodbye. And knew we would see our friends in Cheltenham soon.

We set off at 9.15 and made our way south through the islands. During the morning making only 2 knots at times, in a 4-5 knot north wind in a calm sea. But we didn't mind. It was lovely, almost drifting along, reading our books, and enjoying the scenery, of green covered islands and very few signs of residential life. Then, we were both looking the same way, and over the starboard beam were several dolphins playing, or maybe feeding. Whatever, they were doing, they were having fun. One leapt up in the air, so that it was as much clear of the water, as its length. And then another leapt and another! They dashed about and we have never seen such a display as that before, by dolphins. (We once saw a swordfish leap into the air twice also, in Greece.) So much energy.
There were several boats about, but many were motor boats and they go so fast, that they miss it all.
In the afternoon, the wind increased, and we carried on doing 5 knots, which helped us on our way. By the time we anchored between two small islands, Krknata and Krava we had done a 25 mile run, and were satisfied with that.
The position we anchored was important, because the weather forecast was "southeast turning southwest and increasing to 24 knots, with thunderstorms." And that's what we got. Well up to 28 knots at one stage!
Shortly before sunset a small Austrian yacht came and anchored in front of us. They gave a wave as they went by, a good sign. Although, I did wonder why he had to go in front of us, when there was plenty of water around. Before it got dark, 'Renee' came over in his dink, and I asked if he had seen the weather forecast. He said that he had. Anyway, we invited him and his wife (Monica) onboard for a drink, and then had a good evening chatting away, and sharing experiences.
During the night it rained, so much that we knew it would give Janika a good clean, but at 4.30am we had thunder and lightening, and the wind increased and pushed us all over. Most of the time, I was watching Renee and Monica's boat, both to make sure it was not going to hit us, and also that we were not dragging as well. We have had worse, but it was the third serious thunderstorm which Croatia is known for, and another poor nights sleep.
The day passed, and boats came out, but during the course of the morning five other yachts and motor boats anchored near us, rather then brave the strong wind still coming down from the north. By the afternoon, it settled and we departed and said goodbye to Renne and Monica. Who, then gave us a brochure all about Renee the artist! It appears that he has exhibited all over the world, and is known as the light trapper. You just don't know who is about you!
After an eventful afternoon, where we got caught by a squall, things did settle down and we enjoyed a peaceful gentle sail through more islands just a line away from the Kornati islands, and found a buoy to tie up to in Landin, just on the southern tip of Pasman. We needed a good sleep. Its tiring work you know!
Next morning, thursday 21 July we stopped in Pakostone on the mainland for some provisions, and then sailed all the way up to Preko. Tacking our way up, with some other yachts. Beautiful. We anchored in the small harbour at Preko in 4 metres amongst a busy holiday atmosphere, and watched the sun go down as we read our books. Karen is reading 'Down Deep' a good read about whales and environmental issues, and I'm reading Shackleton, and another called 'The Tourist' both quite different, so it helps to switch from time to time.
Today we upped anchor and pulled into Preko Marina where we have been before and where we shall go over by ferry to Zadar and meet Brian and Barbara on Sunday. Now, we can prepare and enjoy the peace of this marina.
Preko is on the island of Ugljan which means Olive Island, so you can guess what many people do for work here.

We had two nights in Rovinj. It allowed us to catch up on things. Especially as we bought a Croatian dongle. So now we can access the internet more readily. Our freezer is really struggling to keep things frozen. The heat is affecting it, and it does have a small leak, we know, as we recharged it in Greece before we left.
On the night of 14 July we anchored across from the Brioni islands where Tito did all his entertaining after the Second World War.
The sunset was brilliant.
Next morning however, there was a bit of a blow. We went out for an hour but after passing Pula harbour entrance, and trying to see how Janika fared outside, the sea was heavy, very heavy. We had been out an hour, and Janika rolled strongly from one side to the other. Gunale to gunale. That's the bit of wood on the side. I heard a yelp from below. Karen was trying to keep the interior in place, and failing. So, we decided it wasn't worth it, and motored into Pula harbour, and spent the day and night there. When I went down below, I found everything had fallen out of the book cases, some cupboards, and there was a complete mess all over. Another boat did the same, so we agreed it was to rough to be out.
Another day in Pula was a delight, because it's not really a tourist town, but normal people live there.
We have been doing a lot of sailing this trip, and our return was no different. A lot of close hauling, but good medium strength winds, and often kind seas.
A lovely evening in Losinj in a bay with 20 other boats, was another delight. First, we anchored on some rocks, and Karen, who was not a happy bunny, donned snorkel and went to find out where we were. She confirmed her suspicions. There was a lot of rocks around, and places where our anchor could get caught, and difficult to recover. I pulled up the anchor, while Karen swam around, watching, and directing the best place for us to move to. Only 20 metres away, she found lovely sand, and we dropped anchor and were set for the night.
On Sunday 17 July we sailed to Otok Olib, although, not deliberately, it was a convenient place to go to bearing in mind the wind, and our wish to go south. We found a very small islet, and were drawn to the turquoise waters around, and anchored in 4 metres. Here, we were off the main island, but in shallow water, with anchor well dug in. Swimming that evening was a delight, and after a fresh water shower, dinner and a glass of wine. It doesn't get much better than that. I even won a backgammon, and that'd not often.
At 3am in the morning I was woken by a noise the anchor chain makes when its not happy. And, it was a good warning to me that the wind was freshening. So, confident though we were about our holding, we had a fitfull sleep for the hours before breakfast. However, all was well. We were getting very short of provisions, and so called into the main, the only village on Otok Olib, called Olib. It was an island that the residents bought from the owner in 1900, and in fact followed the trend of the neighbouring island Silba, where they too had bought their island from an old sea captain in 1854! The island of Olib used cooperatives to the benefit of them all.
After the ferry had arrived we left, and sailed off south again.
Today, Monday 18 July we have sailed 18 miles since 12.45pm until arriving here at Prolaz Zapuntel at 17.05pm, averaged over 4 knots, about 4.5 miles per hour. And you wouldn't believe how much excitement we've had in that time. With boats sailing close by, ferries passing with rough wash to throw us about, and winds up to 20 knots at times.
We arrived at this place, with the catchy name, (Prolaz Zapuntel) actually, if you came back from the doctor, and said to your family, " he says, I've got a prolaz zapuntel". They would probably believe you! Anyway,it was about 4.30pm, and you enter a narrow channel, where the pilot book says, "approaching from the west, requires care and good visibility, because of the various rocks, shoals and islets. The location of these dangers, is best seen from the chart". And it goes on. I'm surprised that we are hear at all! And it is worth the effort, and concentration, because as you come through the channel, it opens up into a pair of bays facing each other, north and south. In each they have placed some buoys, and so we now lie to a buoy, surrounded by pine clad edges, and the sweet sound of hundreds of chicadas! It is lovely. Really. I've got photo to prove it. The man came around about 7pm with his receipt book, and asked :how many metres do you want to be?" I was tempted to say 5metres, costing 15kuna per metre, but decided that cheek and the wrong language don't mix. Anyway, tonight, we should sleep like babies, and wake up feeling full of get up and go. It will make up for this morning.
So, we wish you goodnight to all, and may all your dreams be sweet ones....

After Nic and Ollie left us, we decided to leave Sibenik and find an anchorage somewhere, northbound. A night in a bay by Tijesno was just right, and we enjoyed a peaceful night. Next morning, anticipating passing through the bridge between Murter and the mainland, we found that the depths of water were less than our vessels draft! So, we went around the outside. (These pilot books are good sometimes.)
Another couple of nights at anchor and we pulled into Preko marina under a drizzle of rain, and tied up. Despite the rain, it looked our sort of place. Small, just enough shops and services and friendly people. And it was. The marina staff were very friendly and efficient.
Here we met with Stuart, his wife Marjorie and friend Laura. We had arranged to meet up with them before and we spent two delightful evenings with all three, swopping stories, and listening to there local advice. All very useful, and particularly nice to be with English people, as we haven’t seen or met many at all, this trip. Too many Germans and Austrians, which amounts the same thing. (Nothing wrong individually. Just the sheer numbers, a bit overwhelming!) They say, the Italians are coming over in July and August. It sounds like we need to be prepared for an armada. We’ll, we know what happened to the last one!
Karen lost a bit of a tooth, so made an appointment to return here. It is so close and handy to Zadar, which is where we shall pick up B & B (Brian and Barbara) in about three weeks. In fact, the ferry services are so good, we might go over and bring them back on the ferry to Preko. Much better.
Our neighbours here on the boat next door, Luciana and Raymond, from Belgium, but living in Italy. Lovely couple.
Two more nights on found us in Z.Pantera on the north of the island of Dugi Otok. Sounds like a chaps name! But is a lovely island, and we must go and see more. We paid for a buoy overnight here, because if you didn’t, you couldn’t stay. But it was nice. Fantastic sunset. Maybe that’s what we paid for!
Next night, another buoy, about £14.00 this time, less. In the channel beside Ilovik and another small island. The place was nearly full. We arrived at 4.30pm and managed to get a buoy towards the end of the line. At least it kept us away from any noise and, when we went ashore we parked the dink, and walked in, which was a good way to see the place. Overnight we had thunderstorms and rain like I’ve only had so close once before, (near Rafti – another story), but this one frightened me more. The storm lasted from 2am and it was still raining at 9am. I was concerned about a direct hit, and the fact that we had a lightening conductor did little to allay my fears! Later, the day turned out bright and warm. We decided to stay, and enjoyed lunch ashore, and in the evening a light dinner which was to prove very fortunate. As we met an Italian couple, who suggested a marina we might stay at in Venice. It was not listed in out pilot book, but we found out in a few days that it was very good, and spent three nights there! Thank you.
On 7 July we anchored in the harbour at Pula. Here, when you park up, you are looking at a great big amplitheatre. In fact the sixth biggest in the world, and some say one of the best preserved. We had to have a look inside, and were rewarded with a marvellous experience. Such a breathtaking place and right in front of the harbour. It held 20,000 spectators in it’s day, and today hosts all kinds of theatrical events. We liked Pula. An ice-cream here, and a coffee there. The Forum, still called the same name as the Romans had named it, was attractive. In the morning we filled up with diesel, and paid just £1.13/litre for the privilege. Pula has a large ship building industry, and we saw the works as we passed in and out. Onto Rovinj.
On our way along the coast, we passed by Brioni, which is where Tito entertained heads of state and kings and queens, during his reign. We had visited Brioni in 2006 whilst crewing with Luigi, so it was nice to see it again.
We parked in the anchorage at Rovinj at 2pm. Went ashore in the dink to have our papers stamped, as we wanted to leave Croatia and sail over to Venice, just 55 miles away. The harbour master did her bit, but we still had to be at the harbourmaster mole just before departure, and see the police. We had our pudding ashore in the evening, as Karen prepared main course onboard. The place was a bustle, in fact, it was bustling all over. There were people everywhere. We particularly enjoyed watching the sunset. That was the best bit.
Next morning we checked out with the police at 6am. In fact we just caught him, and he was off some where, so I don’t know how long we would have waited, if we had missed him, then.
We mostly motor sailed across to Venice, as the swell was causing us to roll, and we needed the engine to give us the speed. With that we went over at 6 knots mostly and got there in ten hours. We first tried the Grando marina which was in our pilot book, but it looked small, there were no big yachts, so we were concerned about depth of water, too small, for us, and had poles between berths, which we don’t like.
So, here comes the recommendation we received from the nice Italian couple, and we found Marina Fiorita a mile further on. By the way, by this time we had no charted depths, and so were going on echo sounder only!
The marina was a delight. It was everything we wanted. It was small, but deep enough for our draft, and the marinero gave us a berth on the inside of the outside pontoon, just across from a large motor yacht. So, we were in posh company.
I could talk about Venice for hours, so won’t. I proposed to Karen in Venice, just under the Adam and Eve statute on the corner of the Doges Palace, six years ago on 1 May. It is a special place for us.
We bought a 36 hour vaporetto pass, to have opeb access to the waterbuses that ply to and fro. On the first day, we visited Murano, where we saw the glass factories, and had lunch; in the afternoon we returned to Janika to rest a little, and in the evening we took the vaporetto to Burano and had dinner. On the next day, we visited Venice and walked and walked and walked. St, Mark’s Square; The Rialto Bridge, of course, and also the Peggy Gugganheim Art Museum, as the major art gallery I wanted to see at the Academia Bridge was closed again.(It happened last time too!)
In the evening we dinned at the restaurant by the marina, and it was so good, in all respects, that I can’t say a thing!
Next morning we were up early, and we left the channel marker outside the Veneta Lagoon at 7.43am, about an hour since we left the marina.
Ten hours later at 5.50pm we tied up at the harbourmaster’s mole to have our papers stamped again on entering Croatia. By 6.20 we were anchored in the bay. It had been a very hot day. Air temperatures up to 33.5 degrees and water temperatures 35 degrees! We haven’t been so hot since Turkey. And the freezer was struggling to work properly.
A fantastic visit to Venice, and we were so pleased to have been back. This time by boat.

My request to "wait a minute" has I notice been lost in the ether. So, a continuation.
It's the best bit of the trip!
We left Sv. Nikola and motored through the Sibenik channel, and then into the Krka river. Under a bridge which in the middle is 30 metres high, and still gives me minor worries as Janika at 18metres from the waterline passes underneath. Then through into the river proper, and a series of twisting turns passing through high edged rocky hills, and tight bends until the river opens up into a small lake about 2 miles x 1 mile across, and then into the river again. Another 30 metre bridge, and as we turn round the bend a sight to behold, as Skradin appears in view. Even Nikki was impressed and reached for her camera as she saw the large motor boats berthed there. It was oly Karen and my second time here in Skradin, but we already knew how we liked the fresh clean water, and how it cleaned off the salt so well on your boat. It has to be said, that Ollie and Nikki entered into the boat cleaning job with a willing enthusiasm, and with the four of us all swilling water everywhere, Janika got the full treatment. I'm sure I received a purposeful jet of water from Nikki, at one stage, and got her back later on. Good fun when it's so warm.
That evening we dinned at 'Bonaca' and enjoyed a delicious meal in good company.
We were up early, and had breakfasted when we boarded the ferry which would take us up to the Krka Waterfalls at 8am. There was only one family of six that joined us, and within twenty minutes we were alighting the ferry and taking our first sight of the falls. It is difficult to over emphasize the wonder of those falls. There are so many gushing levels of water that cascade down the staircase of rocks, which have formed travertine surfaces over time. I wouldn't normally, get so excited, but would about these. They are to be recommended for a visit. In all we spent three hours looking around, and walking all around the various levels, and seeing buildings where people once had a community. A blacksmith's; a corn mill; and that was so interesting because it consisited of seven separate mills, where on the day, one was open and actually miling wheat.
To top the visit, Nikki; Ollie and I went in for a swim at the bottom of the falls. And a few others did too. There was a line of floating buoys across the bay, to stop you going too close to the falls themselves. I struggled to swim to that line, because the current caused by the waterfalls was so strong. In the end I made it. Ollie was already there! And Nikki soon joined us too.
A great day, and it was only twelve o'c;ock.
Lunch with parma ham, cheese, olives, onion, fresh bread and Prosec wine was had. That's all 'Mate' the family taverna offer! You need nothing else.
In the afternoon, Ollie steered Janika all the way down river to Sibenik. The wind was blowing strong and we decided to berth at the marina, rather than take the harbour quay, which was too exposed for us.
When we entered the marina the wind was still strong, and I messed up a bit on the boat handling skills. Another yacht tried to come in behind us, and he didn't help. Apparently he got into trouble too, but I was to busy watching to our needs!
As Janika approached the finger berth head on to the wind, her stern came over and towards the finger pontoon on the other side. Karen, bless her, jumped into action. Literally! She climbed over the rail and jumped onto the pontoon, to push Janika off and prevent the boat's hull getting scraped along the pontoon's edge. Imagine Karen, feet on the pontoon, hands on the boat pushing the boat away. It was like one of those 'Tom and Jerry' cartoons where you guessed it. Tom falls into the water. And that's what happened to Karen. Anyway, we got Janika tied up. Unbeknown to me, a German gentleman pulled Karen out of the water. When I then saw her, she was standing there like a drowned rat, beside two marineros, telling them that they should not have allowed the other boat to come in, and so on... I walked over, and gently suggested a shower followed by a good alcoholic drink. And that's what happened. Later on, I couldn't help noticing, that as Karen had obviously felt it important to stay on the bank and take photos of us at the water falls, she made up for it, and had a dip in the marina instead. We all had laugh, and Karen and I thought afterwards that Nikki and Ollie would remember our arrival at Sibenik!

At last we have a good internet connection. We arrived in Preko this morning, which is a nice little village with a small marina on the island of Ugljan. We are just three miles across the water from Zadar.
So much to say, about our recent adventures. But, I'll be brief!
On 15 June we left Sibenik and went up the Krka river to Skradin, where we decided it would be a good place to bring Nic and Ollie, and so left the visit to the Krka Waterfalls until they were with us. Over a few days we cleaned Janika up in the nice fresh water of the river. No salt! And we made friends with a family of swans and thier three signets. In one day, they came to see us seven times!
Whilst anchored at Skradin we had heavy rain, and a squall which caused another yacht (37 ft) to drag her anchor, and Karen saw it first, as I was taking photos of the tripper boat returning in the heavy squall, with thunder and lightening all around us. The yacht was unmanned, and we protected Janika's hull from the yacht hitting us with fenders, and I managed to get a line onto her cleat, and tie it onto ours amidships. Once this was done, I went on her deck and fixed another rope onto her bow so that we could loose it at will. Anyway, by now, she was safe tied onto us, as long as our anchor held. I thought she would as we had dug in well. A little while later we saw two men frantically rowing towards us, and we realised this was the yachts crew. They we very gratful to see her safe, and knew that if we had not caught hold, she would be aground somewhere! Karen gave them some advice!!!!
After our fresh water excusions we went outside Sibenik to see the islands, and found interesting places. Particularly at Hramina, where Karen asked the coastguard to advise a good place to eat, and we had dinner of sea bass fillets on my 57th birthday, with a strawberry sweet. 'Konoba Boba' is the restaurant, and worth a repeat on our way back down the coast.
On 22 June we picked up Nic and Ollie on the quayside in Sibenik at just before noon, and we motored off through the channel and anchored by Fort Nikola (appropriate) and had lunch, and a chance to brief on our coming five days together.
We sailed off and found good winds. Later the wind moderated and we changed our intended destination, and anchored in 11m in a bay on the east side of the island of Kaprije. A swim was in order, and we were surprised by the speed in which Ollie and Nic jumped straight into the water. It was about 29 degrees. We spent the night there, on our own, apart from a small boat up the way.
Next day, (thursday) we sailed to the Kornati islands. These are in a National Park, and highly regarded. The best way that I can describe them is to relate a legend. That they emerged by chance when God created the world. 140 pebbles fell out of his pocket and, when he turned round to pick them up, he was surprised with what he saw and he said: "Let them stay, nothing needs repair here."
We sailed all the way through these 'shaved' islands, consisting of sage and thin grass, and few trees. Anchored in Gunak, and had more swimming, in clear waters. That evening Nic and Ollie took the dink to book a table for dinner at a taverna. When they returned, they explained that the menu consisted of "fish or lamb, but there's no lamb!" So, we went ashore and enjoyed a fish dinner. Oh, and played a game of mexican dominoes.
Next stop was at Zut, where the wind blew up, and Karen and I were concerned that we were dragging our anchor. So, we told Nic and Ollie that we were going to move. They stayed in bed, and at ten minutes past midnight we raised anchor and dropped it a mile further north on the opposite side of the bay. We kept a watch, and so did not get much sleep that night! At 5am we decided to leave, the wind was still blowing, but the light was just begining to show, and we wanted to reach the Krka River later this day. Again, we told Nic and Ollie we were moving, and they stayed in bed. Then began a long day, where we motored out into the open, and found strong breezes and moderate swell, and headed off towards the lee of some islands five miles away. Then we put up the smallest of main and genoa sails and during the morning with mostly a beam reach, sailed in force 7 and sometimes 8 making over five knots. I explained to Nic and Ollie that we were in gale force winds, but they were both quite relaxed. Nic said she trusted me! Nice. Lifejackets we worn, as Janika rode the waves. Thankfully, and very importantly, there was only a modest swell, and it showed how sailing through the islands can be exhilarating, but safe. We stopped before lunch in a little bay, where the wind was blowing 36 knots as we entered. It was called Nikola. A popular name out here. Of course St. Nicolas is the patron saint of sailors, and so it was reassuring to us all.
More in a minute...

Sibenik - Prounounced ‘SH’ ibenik.

We did buy some Grk wine in a small winery in Lumbarda. We haven’t tried it yet, but as they have been making it for over 2,300 years, I guess they have got the hang of it by now! We’ll save it for when Nikki and Ollie arrive in just about a weeks time now.

Shortly after leaving Lumbarda we motored through the islands and passed close to Korcula town. It looked stunning from the sea, and I took a photo of ‘Seacloud 11’ which looked like the type of cruise ship you would want to go on. I’ll have to remember to look it up on the net.

We had a great days sail, most close hauled at about 45 degrees in 20 knot winds, and Janika did a healthy 6 knots, without leaning over too much.
As happens the seas got ever bigger and eventually we decided to motor in the the island of Scedro, but still tacking Janika to keep our speed as good a we could.

Anchored in a small bay just after 5pm and let out 40m chain in 9m depth. There were a couple of restaurants close by with buoys to tie on to, but we preferred to make our own dinner, and so looked after our own mooring at anchor. All of the boats at buoys were German, and we just didn’t feel like it that night.

On the 10th, Friday we did a short hop to Hvar, as the weather was forecast to deteriorate, later on. Arrived in Hvar where we did tie up to a buoy at 1pm. It looked lovely. A really nice harbour surrounded by 16th century buildings, all built after the Turks razed it to the ground earlier on. (I won’t say much about the Turks, because I’m reading a book called ‘Paradise Lost’ and what the Turks did, can not be said here!) Let’s just say, that I’m reassessing my views about them.

Hvar is a beautiful place, and the square which leads to the Cathedral is just the right size, and form. One feels comfortable there at once, and the bustle around makes it right.
The afternoon weather did bring the expected heavy swell, and so we spent an uncomfortable night, if safe tied to our buoy (£35.00).
Also, there was too much noise, from the bells, and too early in the morning at 6am!

We must return to Hvar on our way back, as we left some things to see. But in the morning after a trip to the bakery, we departed for Otok Drenik Veli, and had a great sail, until the wind freshened up to 26 knots, and we motored into a little village harbour, and anchored right in the middle of it, with a view all around of the houses and shops. Giving the people a great view of us too!
Later on we recorded 22 knots in the harbour and wondered what it was like outside!
When we awoke in the morning, care of the bells, and found three more yachts and a cat that had tied up against the key, over the far side. We had decided that was too choppy, and anchored. A lot of people don’t like anchoring, and so it gives us some benefits.

On Sunday 12 June we enjoyed a great sail to Primosten, and here made a mistake of anchoring, when we should have gone into the harbour! Because the winds came up again and brought a swell into the beach area on the other side of the harbour. Mind you, it was popular, because alter on there were 22 yachts at anchor with us!
In the morning it was calm, no-one else had dragged there anchor during the night, after the antics of the afternoon. And there were plenty. It made for good afternoon entertainment!

On Monday morning after a wlk up the church to see the view, and collect provisions, we called into Kremik Marina to find out about getting a licence to visit the Kornati islands. It seems that we must wait to obtain a permit just before we go. So, we’ll do that later on. Then onto Sibenik, and another lovely sail, which through the islands became more challenging as we tacked back and forth towards the channel which leads to Sibenik town.
We tied up to the harbour quay, where a big friendly fellow called Vladimer welcomed us to his home town. With a £37.00 charge for the night. (Welcome to Croatia!) However, he did give us a map of the town, and tell us where to go for the market in the morning.
We are parked just a three minute walk from the Cathedral which, is the most important piece of Renaissance architecture in Croatia, and a charming medieval old town. The town overall suffered a lot in the 91/92 war, but is now coming back. It is not really a tourist town, and for that is better, as you can see the way of life.
This morning we went to the market and enjoyed the hustle and bustle which you see in markets everywhere. Bought a chicken, which managed to get cut in half.
Just had a call for skype, must go!!!

Wednesday 8th June 2011

Yes. We made it to Croatia and arrived in Cavtat our Port of Entry a week ago! Our crossing over the Adriatic was good in parts. First time out of Erikoussa we turned back after a couple of hours, because I was feeling sick, and didn’t want to be a handicap on this important leg. So, another night in the Erikoussa anchorage and we then had a good sail, making Cavtat in 36 hours. The bit towards our arrival was a sloppy sea, and that made my stomach churn over and I’m only really just over all that now, a week later.

We found an alternative to the main marina in Dubrovnik, and berthed in a local yacht club called Orsan, which was right across from the cruise ship berths. We had some interesting times watching the comings and goings.
Dubrovnik was an impressive place, and we enjoyed a trip around the maritime museum, telling us all about the Town.
There are lots of tourists though, and we were glad to get away from them.

Over the next few days we made some interesting stops and anchored in them all.
Sudurad in Sipan; Broce on Poluotok Peljesac, and then a dinghy trip down to Ston which Napolean apparently wanted more than Dubrovnik, because of the massive salt pans there. Trstenik, also on Peljesac. And we have sailed most of the way, as the winds have been favourable.

I’m now reading a book by Misha Glenny called ‘ The Fall of Yugoslavia” which is a good accompaniment to our travels along this coast of Croatia. So sad to see the empty houses, falling down and dilapidated once lived in by the Serbs.

Now we are berthed in a small marina in Lumbarda on the island of Korcula. (Prounounced Kortula). Two nights here, to enjoy Korcula Town, which we saw yesterday, just a fifteen minute bus ride away. Today, we shall go visiting some winemakers around here in Lumbarda.

On to the wineries!

We were still waiting for some spares to arrive from Sweden, and so took Janika out to the inland sea beyond Prevesa, and enjoyed three nights at anchor, before returning back to the marina yesterday.
We had a small 'experience'on our way out of the north channel after passing through the bridge though. We went aground on some rocks for a moment as the chanel was badly marked by buoys. In fact the buoys were in the wrong position! Welcome to Greece!
Anyway, now we have our spares and I fitted the new greasing nipple onto the rudder stock this morning.
Tomorrow we leave for Corfu and then onto Croatia.
I'll update in Croatia in about five days time.
Temperatures now in 30's!!! Even the Greeks say it is too hot.
Nigel

It's Thursday 19 May, 2011 and we are waiting to leave lefkas. Just about everything has been done, while we wait for a package of spares we ordered from Sweden. In particular, a part for the rudder which we found corroded, and is needed to allow grease to travel to the rudder stock, and as well as keep the rudder moving, it stops salt crystals forming on top of the steering gear too!
The weather here is mostly cold and wet in the mornings, with strong winds, thunder and lightening afternoon and evenings. Not like Greece at all. More like England used to be. Now things have turned around. However, I'm sure before long that sun will come through, and we'll be complaining about the heat!
Last night we invited 'The Great Danes' as Angela called them, Peter and Birgitte to go with us to 'The Katoghi'. It means place where the animals are kept. In fact it is now the ground floor of a two storey barn, that an English couple, Peter and Alison have taken on a long rental, and converted into a restaurant. Located in Vafkeri, about 5 miles from Nidri up the side of a mountain. We found out about it last autumn from our friend Lizzie, and have been a couple of times. The journey made in our trusty old Merc, took about 45 minutes. Peter, not used to riding as passenger, kept asking about insurance, and I assured him we were 100% covered. "Not, 40% like the Germans" he said? I was very careful, as the road is very twisty, and there are hairpin bends every quarter mile, as we went up the mountain. Just after we arrived, surprise surprise, Lizzie arrived with some friends who we had met before. It's a small world, and this is a small island. A good evening was had by all. I told Alison that no doubt Peter and Birgitte would return with other friends during the summer, as they were very impressed. Peter and Alison are very brave to take on this project, and deserve some help to promote their restaurant. It really is isolated!
We shall go to Lidl now to stock up the larder. Oh. And the wind store!
The passage to Croatia, will now take a dog leg course as Vasilos gave us his opinion on 'keeping clear of Albania'. However much we might read about other boats calling in, the Greeks are still wary, and point to cocaine smuggling along the coast, and say, "keep well off, and head for Italy." So, we shall now plot our course for Brindisi in Italy, and either call in, or turn and head for Cavcat near Dubrovnik a trip of about 200 miles from Corfu. Should take a couple of days and nights.
We expect to depart this coming weekend, after we have collected our necessary stamps from the Greek coastguard office here in Lefkas.
Until the next time....

A lot has been happening. The travel hoist put Janika into the water on Wednesday. Surprise, surprise. We didn't sink, but the engine didn't start when we tried to depart the launching area. Janika was pulled around into a vacant dock, and after much head scratching, we found that the starter battery charge was too low, and when we changed the terminals onto the domestic batteries onboard, they didn't work either! So, over the winter lay up, they just died. We had brought out two new domestic batteries to change over, and once they were onboard, the engine started beautifully. It was a delightful sound, to hear. In-fact, changing the batteries at the dock level was probably the most convenient, as they were extremely heavy, and it was a better place than in the marina, and definitely better than when we were up on the hard!
Yesterday, Selden arrived in the shape of two very keen chaps called Vegalis Kafetdikakis, son of the owner of the agent, and Koram his assistant. they restored our faith in the Company, and replaced our furling winch, and reset the rigging which, it appears had been rigged too tight since we departed Janika in Henan, Sweden!
And, Vernon (don't ask) arrived to re-gas our freezer, which it needed, and is now freezing well.
Last night we went ashore with Peter, Birgitte, Brian and Angela, and enjoyed dinner at Regantas which was so good, that we didn't get back to the boats until nearly one o'clock. Today we are suffering, but it was good.
Vasillos helped us pump up our fenders this morning. What a fine man he is, and has regaled us with so many stories already, that I could write a book about them.
Until next time....

We arrived in Lefkas yesterday. Saturday 7th May 2011.
This time we travelled down in Gosh 3, and stayed in Belgium, at Il San Daniele near Namur, after leaving a place in Mons which we had pre booked, and we told the manager that his 'no smoking' rules, were not working. Better to find places as we go. The Il San Daniele was a small b and b really, with a michelin restaurant attached. Lovely.
In Switzerland we stayed in Sampach, a place we found on the map, and it turned out famous for a battle fought in 1386, which I must look up. The hotel was in the square of this small, but charming little town. Dinner was an unexpected gastromonic meal, and we were spoilt.
Next morning the bill confirmed that yes, we were definitely in Switzerland!
Next another chance encounter of a place called the Olimpia in Lazise on Lake Garda. Marco the manager was memorable for his kindness and energy. The three star hotel was just what we needed. And night time in a restaurant started with 600grams of Mussles each with gorgonzola sauce!
Our last night's stay was in Urbino, a medieval town sitting on top of two hills, where a duke made it a centre of leaarning in the Rennaisance of the 15th century, and it still is today.
We boarded the Minoan ferry at three in the afternoon, and she sailed at about 4.30pm. Late because of the lorries which kept arriving, and were loaded. It was an overnight passage and all good. In the morning we drove to Lefkas, and Karen got ever more excited at seeing Lefkas as we neared the town.
The weather has been been cold and wet, but now warm and sunny. Today I caught the sun as we prepared Janika for the water. Now we have antifouled the starboard side, and polished above the waterline. As well, as greased the prop. replaced anodes, and other things, all to do with putting her in the water. The rest can wait until we get in the marina berth.
We met Bill and Irene, and were sad to learn that Peter's wife Lyn has recently died. He is now coming over later.
There's so much to do, that 'to do' lists are on the go again.

We were in Pylos for eight days. About five days too many. In the end the winds did come, and blew for three days, sometimes up to Force 7 in the marina, so staying put was the best option for us. Then we waited for the sea to die down and on 3rd September we sailed for Kipparissia. A good sail into the bottom of the large bay. There we enjoyed watching a turtle move around the harbour. I think he was the local resident.
Katakolon the next day with a series of sail and motor. The sea was too lumpy for us to make Killini. Here at Katakolon we had visited Olympia where the original Olympic Games were held on the year before last, so we stayed onboard over night in the anchorage behind the dock.
On the 5th we made for Killini on the north coast of the Peleponese. After motoring 4 hours in the morning we made just outside the port by lunchtime, and then the breeze came up, and so, looking at Killini, (not a pretty sight) we turned around until we had the wind for a beam reach, and made for Zakinthos. Later on the wind veered, and we set course for Kefolonia. The timing was tight, to get in before nightfall, but we anchored in a little bay that we had once before, just south of Sami. (The place where Nicholas Cage filmed Captain Corelli’s Mandolin) at 8.30pm. It was nearly dark. And the winds had freshened to force 7 on the nose, so we were glad to be inside the bay with shelter. Oh. We had seen dolphins out there with us in the near gale. But to them, it was no problem.

Monday 7th September.
In the morning we awoke to a glorious day, and headed for Ithaca, one of our favourite islands. As we made our way across the Ithaca Channel, we watched ‘Splendour ofthe Seas’ pass by. A Royal Carribbean cruise ship. (I momentarily thought that at my age, I could have been Captain of her by now, and then I realised that the skipper on there was probably looking down on us, thinking. “I wish I was on my own little yacht”. Life’s Like that.

We pulled into Kioni, a small port on the east coast and anchored in Sarakiniko Bay at 1.20pm. Karen swam with a line back to the rocks and once secure we went ashore for lunch in the dink. Very nice. Especially the courgette balls.
Amazingly for such a small place, by evening there were 51 yachts tied up one way or another. It is a very popular place! And really not much there.
In the morning I took the dink off for some fresh bread. Oh and a bar of chocolate. The first I’d had for months. Seriously!

The water was so clear, and we enjoyed it so much, that only one hours slow sailing the next morning, and Karen had spotted a place with a beach and a space for us along the coast called ‘Ay Nicholas’ and we anchored there. We liked it so much that we stayed overnight. The water was full of fish, and it was like swimming in a fishtank! In fact I didn’t like the way the bigger fish (8’ long) followed me around when I went to check out the anchor. They were just being friendly. Karen reckons she saw at least a dozen varieties of fish – the best snorkelling in Greece yet.
But next morning we saw movement behind Janika as we sat at the stern and watched three large fish, over 18 inches, move so fast that they caught some smaller fish for breakfast. It was so clear, we saw the whole thing. Scary.
A lovely stop.

By now we were getting close to Janika’s home port. And there were few excuses left, to keep out. So, we motored, and sailed slowly up to Nidri for a lunch stop, and then made for Lefkas Marina, tying up at 6.30pm. Mind you, there was a wind blowing across the harbour at about 17 knots, force 5. Tested till the end, but Janika was home.

Now we will prepare Janika for the winter, and make some repairs and maintenance over the next two weeks. Jaynie is coming out on 26th and we shall take her out then, for a few days cruising and finish the work off on Janika’s return into the marina.

10th September.
Already we have met several friends who have their boats here too, and commenced arrangements for work to the sails; generator and windlass.
Our dentist Antonia is away on holiday, but next week we should be able to have our teeth checked as before.
It is a bit like being home. But we look forward to being home, proper in a few weeks, once Janika is all tucked up for the winter, and we can reflect upon a busy sailing season. Over two thousand five hundred miles travelled. Turkey, Cyprus and Greece.
We have to say, that despite many opinions that favour Turkey, our favourite is Greece. Clear waters, beautiful colours in a crisp light, that only Greece seems to have. And so many delightful little anchoring places where you can get away all on your own, make for an enchanting experience. And the people are nice too. But so are the Turks.

We have also enjoyed the lovely company of four groups of friends/relatives, each quite different and quite remarkably fantastic in their own right.

Probably the last Blog this year, unless we feel the urge to commit something to the record. Thanks for company.

nc

Wednesday 26th August
Another day in Methoni. Tired, probably due to the heat 33 degrees, and high humidity. We don’t know how you can get so tired doing so little sometimes!
We have been able to catch up with e’mails as we are getting a wi-fi connection at anchor although it frequently throws you out it’s still a bonus.

Thursday 27th – 31st August
We departed Methoni and sailed slowly as we needed to make water enroute and it wasn’t far to Pylos.

On arrival at Pylos we decided to go into the marina as we wanted to spend sometime exploring Messina and the countryside of the Peleponnese. Nigel has been looking forward to seeing Pylos again properly. The last time we were here 3 years ago we anchored at the very end of the long 2.5 mile bay and slept after an overnight sail and only briefly tied up on the main harbour wall to get a few provisions before setting off.

The marina is unmanaged, there is no electricity or water so berthing is a free for all. Luckily we just squeezed into a little slot made to measure alongside.
We have been here so long we are beginning to take root! We were going to leave on Sunday but couldn’t hire a car on Saturday so accepted one for Sunday. Then we found out there was strong winds on their way on Tuesday and with no adequate shelter ahead we decided it was safest to stay put.

It is now Tuesday, the F6/7 winds were due to arrive 3pm then 6pm – we are still waiting so watch this space. Maybe we are so well protected in this bay we don’t know what is going on outside!

We had a nice day out with the car exploring the countryside and visited King Nestor’s Palace (well the ruins of it anyway) from 4000 years BC. Drove through mainly olive groves and very arable areas where we stopped to buy fruit and veg. from one of the many stalls by the side of the road. We eventually found a nice stop for lunch. Then found one of the most beautiful bays with sandy beaches and smart cafes Finikoudi. We found a café for a drink and the young couple at the next table were playing backgammon. I asked if they spoke English and they said “a little”, I asked if they would mind if we watched them play as we were trying to learn. They were very polite and as they played they explained the moves and rules. They even taught us an alternative game. We are now much more proficient and can use the game which I gave Nigel for his birthday. We will remember Finikoudi for more reasons now.

Today we took the dinghy across the bay two and a half miles and had a wonderful swim off the lovely sandy beach. Bliss!

We have even got ourselves into a nightly routine. After dinner onboard we walk into town about 20 minutes for a coffee and Nigel has his favourite, a lemon sorbet, which he has been longing to find and this is the first place he has found just what he was dreaming about. And we check our emails and weather.

Kc
Karen’s right, I have been looking forward to a return visit here in Pylos. I just didn’t count on us being here still after five days.
I was showing the Port Police our transit log yesterday and enthusing about how we like Greece. The log has so many stamps of places we have stopped where we have had to show our log to the local Police office, and get it ‘stamped’. About every 30 days. They were impressed. So much so, that they said we know Greece far better than they do. It must be true. And we have probably travelled Greece more thoroughly than we have the UK!
Here in the Peleponnese we are in an area, which is steeped in history. There is so much! Homer wrote about Agamemnon the Myceanean King in the Iliad which was around 13th Century BC. The battle for Helen of Troy, and whether it happened or not, we may never know, but battles like it did happen and the life and tough, sometimes violent times did exist, and we have been fortunate to travel in the places they travelled and lived. From Patros where the Myceaneans came from; from here in Pylos where King Nestor gave 100 ships and men to assist Agamemnon in his quest to recover Helen of Troy. Across to Troy itself, not far from The Dardenells where that dreadful infantry assault was made in the First World War.
The Peleponnese is full of reminders of the past. Recently we have touched Koroni and Methoni, both with Venetian fortresses, built to protect the trade routes passing along the bottom of the Pelepponese, where goods from the Middle East were carried up towards Europe.
I could go on. But wont! Thank heavens I haven’t read up on Jason and the Argonaughts. But he was here too.

Our time is coming to an end for this this years sailing, and we are now planning our maintenance for our arrival in Lefkas where we shall put Janika to bed for the winter.
Each year it gets more , as Janika gets a little older, and my spares list for bringing out next spring gets bigger too.

Friday 13th – Tuesday 17th August

Sailing into Naxos felt a bit like coming home. We had visited Naxos for the last three years, sometimes more than once and to see good friends again is always something to look forward to. As it was only 1230 it was easy to find a berth. We quickly met up with Peter who was already in the Marina.

The next few days in Naxos were a little anxious as we moved into one of the local boats moorings which had lazy lines thus making anchor issues of crossed chains not an issue. We had been reliably informed (we thought) that the boat who’s mooring we had was away for 4/5 days, then, all of a sudden he was coming back the next day and it was advisable for us to move or else there would be trouble!!!!! I was not pleased with the situation, however, we did move and there was some debate about where to go next. Eventually after waiting for a boat to leave we took up another similar berth and were on tenterhooks not knowing when the berth holder was going to appear and demand his berth back. We should never have left our first mooring. The situation in Naxos is utter chaos and each year it gets worse with more local boats putting down mooring lines thus making less space for visiting yachts. Most of the boats just sit there in the harbour and rarely go out. The wrong boats are taking up valuable spaces and nobody cares. One day somebody will get a grip of the situation and charge properly, repair the electrics and sort out the current mess. We hope it is soon because the visiting yachts will stop visiting.

We planned to go sailing in the company of Peter on “Rainbow” with the “Bullivants” a family that are very good friends of his who were joining him for a week from the UK. Nigel and Peter had planned a nice route for three days then we would breakaway to carry on and Peter to make his way back to Naxos. The weather forecast was showing a gales F7 and 8 on there way down the Aegean! We all had to be mindful and ensure we were in safety by Saturday when the winds would strike.

Tuesday 17th
Nigel and I let go our mooring lines and edged our way out of our tight slot in Naxos at 7am while there was not a ripple on the water, making our departure easier as we were jammed between a larger motor boat on one side and a very hostile metal thing on the other. Off we went to Paroikia again. This time we decided to drop anchor in the little bay just before the main harbour. There was a nice beach area with clear waters which looked inviting for a swim. Anchor set and in for a cool down swim – bliss. We relaxed for the next few hours waiting for Peter and Co. to join us. They arrived about 3.30, all introduced to mum and dad, Sarah and George, and their three absolutely delightful daughters, Rosanna 22, Kate 19 and Ellie 16. A group swim was great fun was enjoyed by us all.

Later on we raised our anchors and motored the short distance to the main harbour to anchor for the night. We all went ashore to Dionysis for dinner which has become our favourite spot. As usual it was excellent and everyone was very happy with their choices.

Wednesday 18th
Nigel took Sarah and Kate ashore to get some fresh bread. We weighed anchor at 11 am and set off for the island of Siphnos. We had a fantastic sail all the way on a beam reach in F4’s, it doesn’t come much better than today. Anchored in Nisos Kavouras a lovely bay. Another beautiful swim, dinner on board then we all joined up to dinghy ashore for coffee and ice-cream.

Thursday 19th
We weighed anchor at 9 am to get an early start for Appollonia on the island of Milos.
I got all agitated as we left the anchorage because Peter was sailing alongside us and we couldn’t move to port, which we needed to as we kept jibing. I should have just beckoned him to give us some sea room which we needed as we were on the lee/shore side. Anyway they pushed on ahead of us giving us all the sea room we could wish for and we all had another fantastic sail this time a close reach in F4/5 winds mainly.
It was a long day but a great one, arriving at 4.15pm. Peter has a great crew and they completely outsailed us all the way. My main priority is to keep Janika as upright as possible which Nigel did – thankyou. It did get a bit hair raising the last half an hour as the winds came gusting through the islands. At one point we reached boat speed of 7.2 knots with me helming. This is an unusual phenomena as I don’t like helming under sail and decided I should push myself a bit more as the lovely Bullivant family have all been helming while we have had our auto pilot on.
We had dinner ashore with the Bullivants insisting on treating us as it was our anniversary the next day which they would miss, as we were all going our separate ways. We ate in one of the little tavernas on the waterfront and caused much consternation around us when we were introduced to the game of La Di Da, Lad Di Da, La Di Da Di Diddle Di Da. I am not even going to begin to explain this game but if you would like to know get in touch. It was absolutely hilarious and how we didn’t get thrown out of the taverna I don’t know. The eccentricity of the British. At least we weren’t boring and left them with some of their own varying thoughts of the British.
We said our farewells to Peter and his wonderful friends. We had very much enjoyed our time with them. But the gales were approaching!

Friday 20th
Our 5th Wedding Anniversary. We weighed anchor at 4am, yes a.m. morning. I was grumpy after only 2 hours sleep! We were making a run for Elephanosis bay today and would be sailing by the notorious Cape Maleas.
What a day’s sailing?!!!! Our average speed all day was 6.5 knots,
Several times we reached over 8 knots
The wind speed maximum was 34.8 knots through Maleas
Mostly F5 gusting 6’s with F7 through Cape Maleas
We were well reefed in at the right times. It was scary, exhilarating and we felt like real sailors coping with the conditions.
We dropped anchor in Elephanosis Bay at 1910, had a quick meal and straight to bed exhausted by little sleep, constant vigilance and serious sailing. There was quite a swell in the bay which caused a lot of rocking through the night.
We won’t forget this anniversary in a hurry.

Saturday 21st
The seas looked foreboding outside the bay and the wind was getting up already F6 nearly 7 gusts. We decided to wait for the 9am forecast on the VHF because our Greek Sim Poseidon forecast is telling us F2 all day!!!
The VHF forecast is 4/5 for the area we are heading to. We make a joint decision to get out of here no matter what, with F8 gales coming tomorrow this is not the place to be. SO, we weighed anchor at 1005 and with some trepidation we set off with a small amount of sail and genoa and within minutes we were in 18 – 30+ knot winds gusting NNE 6/7/8. We were in a heavy sea but doing well. About one and a half hours later the wind reduced to F4 and 3 and the sea became more calm too. We couldn’t believe the difference. There appears to be two forecast zones which split our crossing and experience quite quite different weather patterns. The Greek Sim was proving to be accurate too.
We arrived and anchored in Port Kayio at 1500 hours.

Sunday 22nd
We were awake at 5 am as the winds increased. We use our anchor alarm constantly now and Nigel has to get up a few times when it alarms just to check that our position is still holding. It is useful to know if the wind has changed direction, as long as the anchor has not dragged.
We departed Port Kayio at 9.30 and were under motor as the wind had dropped right down now. As we were going along taking note of the coastline which is very interesting, we were deciding where to anchor next. Nigel studied the Pilot guide and found that there were some caves nearby at Diros so we headed for there.

Kc

We anchored next to a Greek version of a Turkish Gulet, but not quite as beautiful, around 3pm. The pilot says it better than I can. “The caves are spectacular – one of those sights that stays with you a long time and which few adjectives adequately describe.” We boarded a flat bottom boat with some other people and the guide punted us around the subterranean passages which go on for 1.2 Kilometres. The caves are full of stalactites and stalagmites, which are 2million years old, and just gently punting along gives a real sense of exploring a new and interesting vista at every turn. At one point we were 250m under ground, and I thought, “what would happen if there was an earthquake?” Not the best thought. Afterwards we climbed out of the boat and walked a further 300m through the caves until we surfaced in warm sunlight. A memorable experience, and to be recommended.
Just one other point though. Whilst the caves are amazing, the management of the visit, was poor, and one good tea shop would have doubled there turnover.

We made for Limeni just 3 miles along the coast in the next bay, and as we did, we saw two sea planes flying up the bay and circling. It looked like they were doing circuits and bumps. But no. They were collecting water from the bay, scooping it up from the bay, then flying over a hillside to drop onto a hillside fire. There were fire engines all over, and clearly there had been a big attempt to extinguish the fires before they covered the whole area. The job was nearly done. Although, not quite, and as we found the depths of water in Limeni too deep for a safe anchoring, we tried to dodge the planes as they came in for a re-fill, and they too moved over for us, as we motored across to the other corner of the bay in Karavostasi.

Here, in Karavostasi we stayed two nights, for a peaceful time, with little excitement. Nice.

Monday 24 August.
We motored across to Koroni in the morning, and watched dolphins playing which was the only thing we did see. Very calm sea. Thank you.
We remembered Koroni from a visit two years ago, and restocked in the local store.

Tuesday 25 August.
We sailed from Koroni and made our way down the coast, with Karen helming. A good sail in force 3-4 was delightful. At around 2-3pm we slowly rounded Ak Akritas Point, and with the changing winds took some time to make it tacking our way along. By 3pm the wind had freshened and we were tacking in a force 6 doing over 5 knots, with little sail.” Where did that come from?” I thought. Tacking was likely to take for ever, as the wind was directly on our course line, so we motored up to our next stop, Methoni.
Methoni is another Venetian port called “The Eye of the Republic”, as was Koroni, because both places guarded and protected the passage of ships passing along the route around the Peloponnisos.
The anchorage was the busiest we had seen since being in Turkey, and there were boats from all Countries, including, Switzerland; France; Germany; Greece; Austria, and several Brits.
The water was clear, and we could see our anchor chain easily. One chump, anchored close to us late last night, and seems to have got away with it, as conditions are calm. Otherwise, the risk of hitting each other on a swing exists, not forgetting the advice from Karen!

nc

We spent four days in Naxos, and were pleased to see Peter again, (Diana is still in Bavaria) and be in Naxos. The harbour management situation had deteriorated since last year, as no-one was really in charge. Costas still collected fees, but they seemed to go in his pocket! The services on the harbour wall of electricity was also, a shambles. A few worked only. We actually moved Janika three times while we were there. Robert tried to help us get a better berth, but then we were told we had to move because a local was returning, etc, etc. Not good. However, we did end up on the lee side of the quay, and had lazy lines, so it meant we would not suffer a fouled anchor, which some people did.
A BBQ at Perter's set the scene, and we invited him to dinner onboard the next night. Many coffee's and drinks with lunches were spent putting the world to rights. It's a good pastime the world over, and we enjoyed it too.
Today Tuesday 17th, we departed Naxos at 7.15am while the winds were calm, and have come over to Paroikia, where we wait at anchor for Peter to follow onboard his boat 'Rainbow'. Peter has some friends visiting, 'The Bullivant family' which includes three young ladies. So, he will have his hands full. They are sailing with us over the next few days as we make our way to Milos in tandem, so that will be great fun.
Right now, it's 11.20am, the air temperature is 30 degrees, the water is 33 degrees, and we are going in for a swim!
Oh. And check out the anchor too.

nc

9 August
We dined in a traditional Greek taverna tonight, on the night before Karen’s birthday,so we could be together.

10 August
Derek and Moira boarded the Blue Star ferry for the 10.45am sailing, although it was a little late. The sun was already heating everyone up, and we said our goodbyes, leaving them at the departure gate, so we could find some shade.
Another brief trip had come to an end. One which we enjoyed, and one, where again we had been able to do so much swimming off the boat. A real treat of sailing around the Greek Islands. Crisp clear blue waters, nowhere else like it anywhere.

11 – 12 August
We enjoyed two more days at anchor in Paroikia, it was so lovely.

On the morning of the 12th we popped rund to say goodbye to Bill and Bunny on ‘Onset’ and raised our anchor and motored away at about 11am.

At 1pm we dropped anchor in Naousa, a place we have been before, and liked a lot. And a night here in the calm and hopefully cool, before reaching Naxos tomorrow.

Peter will be back home in Naxos tomorrow, and we’ve agreed to meet up, and share our news.

nc

3 August
A hot day in Naxos. By the time we had woken up and had breakfast, the morning was going fast. A walk into town, showed that the best fish had already gone from the first shop, but Karen managed to find four good sea bream from another. We enjoyed lunch on the beach front taverna, where we had had a good experience before, and they kept our fish in their cooler for us, keeping it fresh.
Ice creams were a must on the way back to the boat. But maybe three scoops was too much!
We said our goodbyes and departed the harbour at 5.50pm. Thankfully our chain was clear of any other chains, although next door boat did keep a watch as I asked him to, just in case. Costas was nowhere to be seen, so I owe him 20 euros next time. Perhaps that will help us secure a berth when we come in!
When we came out of the harbour and into the sea, we found a fairly choppy sea, with a large swell coming down from the north, and it caused Janika to roll uncomfortably as we made our way across to the island of Paros. I had picked out a small bay just 6 miles away, as a place to spend the night, and get out of the hot harbour.
We anchored just south of Nisos Filizi in 4m of clear water, and laid down 30m of chain. A swim soon followed and we dined on sea bream which Karen had prepared as we came over. Despite the rolling sea! Lovely.

4 August
Derek and Moira had a swim after breakfast, before we raised anchor, and just before lunch we anchored in a little cove close to Naousa Harbour, all on our own. (It’s all about meals here!)
We took the dink ashore and had a walk about the village. The girls enjoyed looking in all the nice designer shops.
Soon it was time to move on, and we motored on to Paroikia, the main town on the island of Paros. The jetty, surprisingly had some space. (It does seem a little quieter here this year. Is it the effect of the global economy we wondered?)
We tied up at 6.45pm and found the ferries arriving and departing caused a big wash to pass down the jetty, throwing all the boats about. Not to safe to leave a boat here for long. Next time we shall, anchor in the large bay, and have a calmer stay.
A walk around the town was very enjoyable. It is an attractive place, with winding streets and plenty of shopping and restaurants to see. Many places have these, but so well laid out, and kept so beautifully, together with masses of flowering shrubs and plants cascading over the walk ways.
We had dinner at ‘Dionysos’ which gave good service, mostly down to one lady, and tasty food. The house wine was crisp and fresh and good too. To be recommended.
I’ve forgotten what time we returned to the boat, but here, Karen was asleep in the cockpit as soon as she laid her head down.
In the morning Karen and Moira went shopping for provisions. Derek and I stayed back to look after Janika. I also took the diesel tank inspection lid off to dip the tank as I wasn’t sure that the gauge read properly. It read empty, and was quarter full.

At noon we departed Paroikia and found a lovely anchorage just south of Nisos Kavouras a few miles away. It gave us a quiet safe place away from ‘civilisation’, and we swam and explored the rocky island, as well as finding a sulphur pool, which must have been over 50 degrees in temperature. It was so nice, that we decided to stay the night. Moira made us homemade burgers stuffed with cheese. The diet had to wait another day!

6 August
The anchor was weighed at 9.30am and we passed through a narrow channel leading to Andiparos, a town on the island of Andiparos, just across from the big island of Paros. Karen looked out from the foredeck, and all of us were watching as we carefully, and slowly made our way along. At one point our echo sounder read 2.1m of water, and Janika is 1.95m draft. So, you can see, it was a tight squeeze, and a deeper draft boat would go aground!
Andiparos was another delightful stop. Again we explored all around. I bought a book from the secondhand bookshop about the Irish potato famine. And we got together for a drink and snack lunch before returning to Janika.
In the afternoon, the wind had freshened, and we sailed and tacked our way down the long entrance from the south. Derek took the helm, and did a very creditable job, as we ‘Readied about; Lee Ho’d and took in and let out jib sheets.
To take advantage of the lee of an island, we anchored off the north edge of Pandieronisi island along with several other boats. But, by evening they had all gone home, and left us to ourselves. The snorkelling here was fantastic, it was like swimming in a fish tank, and I’ve not seen such varieties of fish since scuba diving off a coral reef, years ago.
We were in 9m of water, but we held well overnight.

7 August
An early wake up, because we had seen the weather forecast and decided to take advantage of a southerly wind, which is unusual for this area in August. We made for Mykonos, and in the end managed to sail half of the time on a broad reach, running with the wind. Lovely. Fantastic in fact! We came across a couple of ships who passed close. Because we were sailing, they were the ‘give way’ vessels and took the right action in passing. One was the Vodafone ferry, a large catamaran, which the picture will show you its size, and a small coastal tanker.
At 3.07pm we dropped anchor in Ormos Ornos. A little cove on the south west side of Mykonos. The water was deeper at 10m, and we put down 45m of chain amongst several other vessels. Yachts, mostly bigger than us, stink pots and a rather nice old lady, a traditional motor yacht with a red ensign, but a Turkish owner, by its name. ‘Hambabi’ or something like that.
We rested during the afternoon, and in the evening I took Derek and Moira ashore in the dink to stretch their legs before dinner.
We slept well. Although it was a still hot night.

8 August
After breakfast, we watched a helicopter take off from a small grass pad, beside a large garage where it was housed. We watched several well dressed people board the helicopter, on a second trip, soon after it returned from the first trip. Maybe it went to fill up? We were making all sorts of stories up about who the people could be, and where they might be going. It was a smart job, all of it, and we suspect it belonged to a small hotel not far from the landing pad.
Today the weather forecast was saying there would be a change in the wind direction and strength, so I took Karen, Derek and Moira ashore in the dink, where they caught a bus into Mykonos town, and I returned to Janika. It was good that I did. Twenty minutes after they left the wind changed right around from south to north, and the wind strength increased up to 22 knots, force 6. I couldn’t believe it, as I nearly went with the others. Now I was glad I didn’t. All the boats swung around in the harbour, and swung at there new direction. One boat with Polish onboard had it anchor pull out, and they had to pull up the anchor and re-set it. Thankfully, they were onboard.
I wondered how well our anchor was re-setting itself, and realised that I still hadn’t refitted the cooling water filter, which I had been cleaning that morning. I would need that if Janika suddenly pulled out her anchor, as I would use the engine to move her into position, and prevent us hitting any other boats. That job was completed in record time, you can imagine.
As I sat there with a glass of juice in hand, I watched a new boat, German, come into the anchorage, and park in front of another German boat. Not very nice I thought. Then, no sooner than they had anchored, that they dragged! The anchor had not held, and they had to go through it all again. Instead they left the bay.
By now, I’m looking at the weather, quite windy, thinking about whether I should swim over and look at how things are going down under with our anchor. But, at the same time concerned that, if I go down, and the boat moves, I might be worse off, than staying onboard. So, I made lunch instead. Tuna and tomato.
The afternoon passed soon, and I saw Karen return and picked her up in the dink.
All was well and Karen went down to see that the anchor (Hercules would you believe?) was well, and had turned round successfully, on its side, but well dug in.
Moira and Derek returned from their expedition, and we had dinner onboard. Infact Moira had prepared a vegetable bake, which we enjoyed. I had seconds.
During the night, the wind increased and I woke at 4am and slept the rest of the night in the cockpit.
We decided an early start was best. The weather was not going to improve, and might get worse. So, at 6.40am we raised anchor and made for Paros island.
It was windy. In fact we observed 27 knots once, which is Force 7, a yachties gale. But, it was only a gust, and mostly a Force 5, as we sped quickly south on genoa sail alone. A very good sail, although we did roll a lot on a heavy sea. But mostly we were running with the wind behind us, so, it was much more enjoyable than had we been going the other way! Infact, I said if we were, lifejackets would have been on, and we probably wouldn’t even have left the anchorage.
We pulled into Paroikia Bay and anchored at 11.45am. The journey had taken just 5 hours.
Wouldn’t you know it, as we approached the place I picked to drop anchor, Bunny and Bill’s boat was just beside us.’Onset’. He joked about us neading a reservation, but I was past listening to his antics as Janika’s anchor chain slipped quickly out of the chain locker and onto the bottom of the sea bed. Bunny swam over later on and we had a nice chat. She is such a lovely lady. She had fins on her feet, which good, because the current her was fierce, and I found it difficult to swim, and stay with the boat, without getting pulled away on the current.
A quiet afternoon, after lunch, and some rest all round was the order of the day.
Tomorrow Derek and Moira leave us. And, we have had such a good time. This must have been the best quality time that Derek and Karen, brother and sister, have had together since they were children! So, Janika has done another good job for us.

28th July
We had planned for a 6 am departure but it was 6.30 before I managed to get Nigel out of bed!!! We very quietly slipped our lines at 6.50 and prayed that no-one had laid their chain on top of ours. They hadn’t, and we were on our way with big sigh of relief after the Simi antics. We leave with fond memories of Nisiros.

The wind around Nisiros was F4 and the sea state was choppy. We managed to disengage our mainsail which was previously jammed and raised it to try to counteract the swell and give us some forward drive which it did very ably whilst under motor. It was impossible to sail as the wind was mostly ahead and the seas were coming thrashing over our bows and onto the windscreen, water gushing along both sides of the decks too. At one point a huge wave dislodged the boat hook from the deck and it was almost swept away luckily in between waves I managed to retrieve it.
It was 8 hours, 41 nautical miles of endurance to reach Astipalai and our relief to arrive was great. At one point Janika rolled so much with the waves I couldn’t even guess the angle of incline. We rounded the corner towards the approach to the very narrow approach into the isolated anchorage and were in awe of the rugged beauty of this little island.
We dropped anchor in 4.5 meters of water surrounded by low mountains with a few homes dotted around the bay, a few goats but peace, quiet and isolation.
This was to be our temporary home while the Force 7 passed through and the seas calmed enough to cross to Amorgos in the Cyclades.

29th July
We spent today watching the comings and goings of the half dozen little homes and one taverna which does not seem to do much business. We read, caught up on sleep, in fact I fell asleep after breakfast and enjoyed a couple more hours. I think this is the break we have been looking for after a few long days sailing and the intense heat of Turkey. We cannot believe that a few degrees difference in temperature has made such a huge difference to our comfort. Last night Nigel even asked for a blanket!!!
Fortunately our Navtex is working so we are getting forecasts daily. Also our Greek Sim is providing us with forecasts which are wildly different from Navtex! We have enough food for several days so all is well. We just need to be in Naxos to meet my brother Derek and wife Moira on the 2nd.

30th July
Up again 6 am, Nigel jumped out of bed (well almost) eager to get underway. We had made a pact that we would stick our nose out of our well protected bay and if we didn’t like the look of the seas we would turn around and come right back in. Within about 20 minutes we were navigating the channel out of the land locked islet which had sheltered us beautifully. Out into the open seas – the wind strengthened several knots at the end of the channel to 18 knots + and the seas were rushing towards us as we nosed further and further out. The seas were high and rough, after 5 minutes ploughing through we turned back knowing full well that the further we went the worse it was going to get. Also our nearest bolt hole was 6 hours away!
We re-anchored further down the islet for a change of scenery and had breakfast, and spent the day doing various jobs. Nigel cleared out the chart table, which was a major good job (it’s his little hidehole for all sorts).
We made a trip ashore, mainly so that Nigel could climb up the hill to take a photo, and saw the rough state of the roadway that led to the few houses. So, that explained why the cars kicked up so much dust!
A swim late afternoon proved that the water temperature was cooler than in Turkey. But, we were so enjoying the reduced air temperature. Sweat was not continuously pooring from us all day, so it was worth it.
31 July.
We got up early again, and raised the anchor at 6.15. This time, we kept going, and the seas were kinder.
We did have mixed conditions though, and heavy seas at times. By the time we approached the coast of Skinousa, the land shielded us from the swell, and we sailed calmly along and into the main (small) harbour of Skinousa. It was very busy and there were several stink pots in port. So, we decided to anchor in a little bay, all on our own a couple of miles away, and watched a friendly cormorant moving about his patch fishing for afternoon tea! The water was so clear, we could see him swimming about under the water. Very agile. Poor fish.
1 August.
A good nights sleep, and today we would make Naxos. It was good to know that, we would be in port ready to receive Derek and Moira. (There was a point a few days ago, when we wondered if we would make it).
We motored up to Naxos, on a nice bright sunny day. On the way, we saw two turtles close to the boat, as we passed along. The first dived as we came alongside. But the second stayed on the surface, and rolled seemingly waving to us with her flippers. I’ve forgotten the real name. A senior moment, by Nigel!)
We tied up at 1pm, and said hello to Costas the harbour man, who we remembered from last year.
Lunch at The Blue Door, consisted of stuffed aubergine, and nasty Naxos potatoes. Karen sent her wine back. It was either that, or put it into the diesel tank!
A hot day, in port, but great to be back in Naxos. One of our Greek favourite islands.

2 August.
Today we prepared for Derek and Moira’s arrival. Washed the decks, changed oil in the generator and cleaned the air filter. Shopped at the supermarket, and they delivered to Janika soon afterwards, thankfully. Saved our arms.
Lunch onboard. Icecream in the afternoon in Prime, while we use the wifi. Drinks with Bob and Bunny onboard ‘Onset’, an American couple we met last year in Amorgos, before dinner. And dinner onboard Janika. It’s a hard life. Sometimes.
Derek and Moira arrived by Blue Star ferry around 11pm, and we were pleased to see them. They had had a long trip from Athens, using two ferries via Paros.
There was a stage set and loud music on their arrival, with the streets full of Greeks and tourists enjoying the delights.
nc

25 July
We departed Marmaris at 8.30am, and after passing the island, sailed all the way out as far as Kizilda Island which is as far out as you can be and still see Marmaris in the distance. Once we turned the corner, the wind changed and we switched between motoring and sailing along the Turkish coast. As we had made an early start, the gulets pouring out of Marmaris bay, caught us up, and came racing past. Us, tacking to and fro, helping them to avoid us, as we made our way westwards. Eventually, as often happens the tacking was taking too much time, and we put the motor on to catch up.
As we turned before Symi Island and headed north, the wind was on the beam, and we then sailed all the way up to Bozburun. Through an inland sea, and succession of islands, that were delightful. Untouched and natural. Bozburun was now on the map, as only this year, it had made itself a ‘Port of Entry’ in Turkey, and so we planned to use it to clear from Turkey.
Bozburun is in a lovely setting, surrounded by hills of green it sits at the head of the last bay, on the north side. It is small enough to walk around in an evening before dinner, and that’s what we did. Good for our legs to get a bit of a stretch. On the way, we spotted ‘Cavavento 11’, and said hello to Dennis and Pam, who had their son, his wife and their three grand children onboard.
A large sea bream, shared between us, with a fresh salad and some chips, washed down with Efes larger. The fish was excellent, and we were very impressed with the way that the chef had separated both halves.
We returned in the dink, as Janika was lying at anchor in the bay. There were a lot of boats, and the small harbour couldn’t cope.

26 July
Next morning, we found ourselves a little too close to an Italian yacht. We had all swung around in the night, and we decided to move and re-anchor, before we went to see the Harbour master. I took Janika to right outside the Harbour master’s office, on the other side of the bay. The water was deeper at 15metres, but I knew we would only be a short time, and it was so handy. Nobody else had anchored there, so we were clear of everybody.
Thirty minutes, was all it took to clear out of Turkey, and all the paperwork. The offices of Harbour master, Police, and customs were all together! What a good idea. Shame other places haven’t worked that out! And they were very friendly. We even chatted to them about the new laws that had just been implemented in Turkey this month, about visa periods, and laws making you become a resident if you stay so long.
I went back to the boat, to be sure all was well. Karen did some last minute provisioning, and before too long we had weighed anchor and were making our way out of Turkey.
It has been a good experience, but we have ticked the box, and we won’t be back. Unless, it’s a long weekend in Istanbul again, in the spring or Autumn. Far to HOT in the summer. I guess we have covered over 2000miles along Turkey’s coastline last year and this. That’s equivalent to around Britain.
Again, slowly at times, but we sailed almost the whole way over to Symi. Our mainsail furling gear has been giving concern, as we can not always take out the main, but Janika flies on her genoa, so were are not too worried.
Symi came up at around 2.30pm, and we tied up stern to the quay at 3.10pm. The harbour was very busy, as it always appears to be, and we remembered to drop about 30m of chain, before we backed in towards the quay, to allow for the deep water that runs down the middle.
After, such a good paperwork experience in Turkey this morning, we now had to do it Greek style! It involved walking to one end of the harbour, (One end of a U) to the Harbour Master, and then walking all the way around the harbour, (At the other end of the U) to get a stamp from the Port Police. And then, back to the Harbour master to have the Port Police’s stamp stamped. Words fail me! Why can they not be together?
I returned to the boat at 6pm, and we decided we would rather be at anchor this evening. There was just time, as Panormitis Bay was 12 miles away, which we liked.
So, I told each of the boats either side that we were leaving, and confirmed that it was nothing they had done. We just wanted to get in the cool, and then they understood.
I loosened the stern ropes right off, and Karen hauled in the anchor chain on the windlass. But, as we moved out into the harbour, it was clear we had picked up an anchor chain from the boat who had just dropped anchor next to us, after we arrived earlier. (That’s twice in Symi, and twice that’s happened. It is known for it, by reputation.) In the end we had hooked up the anchor, and it made our windlass groan and burn too. But by 6.30pm we had cleared, waved our goodbyes, and raced off to make Panormitis before sunset.
The sun had gone down below the mountain before we pulled in the bay, but in the remaining light we anchored, and Karen had already prepared dinner on the way over, so we dined soon after arriving. And another glass of wine. It’s the only way.

27 July
A good nights sleep, and a desire to leave early, got Karen up at 6am. I followed on a bit sleepy and at 6.30am we had weighed anchor and were leaving the bay.

We motored and sailed to Nisyros, a place we know well. And, at 1pm dropped anchor and backed up to the quay, right in front of Aphrodite Taverna, where we even know the names of the staff. Christina remembered us, and Nikos too. It made us feel quite warm inside.

The Port Police asked us to take our papers to their office, and as I did so, and he was filling out the forms, he looked out of the window, and expressed, ‘Shit’. A very English word, not expecting from a Greek Policeman. It looked like another boat, had been asked to take his papers, and probably because he hadn’t got any, decided to make a dash for it! From then on the rest of the day, the Policeman saw every boat in, and asked for their papers as they arrived! The Greeks are learning after all. Until now, they have been very lazy about this type of thing.
We went for a swim off the new beach in the afternoon. We had watched them shifting sand in May, and now we saw the benefit of all the work. But, the beach showers did not work. Welcome to Greece!

The weather, appears to be ok tomorrow morning, F4-5 Westerly, so we shall make for an early start again at 6am. It’s 35 miles to Astipalia, and there is not much there, so it might be a while before the next blog. We may expect to be holed up for a couple of days on our way to Naxos. If it is Astipalia, that will be good, as we have not been there before. And it a wild and natural sort of place. Not on may people’s list, so we like it all the more. Peace and quiet, with a bit of a blow in between.

As I write this Nikos is telling us how the Greek people have no money, and less people are visiting Nisyros. Karen said, we came three times this year! So, we are now helping the Greek Economy.
There are 18 yachts in the harbour, so at least we are not doing it on our own.

nc

Now we are in Yacht Marina, 8am on Sunday morning, and about to depart for Bozburen. There we will clear out of Turkey and Enter Greece the following Day in Symi. We have had our fourth injector fitted yesterday. And met several people we have met along the way. Brian and Fiona were a surprise yesterday. But also, Harry and Margaret, and Carol and Brian, and Lois and John too.
I could write more, but time is pressing. There is enough time to get to Naxos to pick up Derek and Moira, but the weather is playing its part! Now weather becomes more important, as we sail into the Aegean, and the meltemi rises to its peak time, and rushes down through the centre of the islands.
There is a gale forecast in the south Aegean next Wednesday, and whilst we may have to hole up in some anchorage, we would like to get out of Marmaris, before the weather window closes and forces us to stay here.
So, just another day in paradise!!!!!
Our planned route is Bozburen - Symi - Nysiros - Astipalaia, and from there Amorgus and the islands south of Naxos, and then Naxos town. On a good trip six days. On a bad one who knows!
nc

21 July
By the time we had lifted the dink and secured her onboard, and prepared for sea, it was 10am when we departed. Steve took several photos of an ancient settlements ruins as we passed the islands off Karacaoren, and then we headed for Fethiye. There was a bit of a procession of gulets and sailing yachts on the same course as us, as we made our way through the confused swell, and entered the Gulf of Fethiye. Motoring, because the wind was on the nose. On the ay around a motor boat passed us slowly, and we waved to the lads who we recognised had been net to us at Kalkan.
By now, we were under sail, and doing a healthy 5+ knots. Infact one yacht was motoring, and finding it difficult to catch us up.
To be frank, I was not looking forward to the Fethiye stop, as I anticipated a very tourist centred, and very busy,(in July) place with hoards of people. So, I was pleased as we rounded the entrance which takes you in to Fethiye Bay, we were all impressed by the attractive surroundings, and smart hotels and houses. We continued to sail all the way down towards a little pontoon which some friends had told us about called 'Han Marina'. It was attached to a hotel called 'Yacht Classic', and now we can't praise it enough. The wind was blowing across the bay and made it difficult to steer Janika back into the berth. But, by now our crew were a well honed machine, and we slipped in between two yachts, fending off, and tying up with the help of two good marinellos on the pontoon. All in by 1.20pm, and it was time for lunch onboard.
I think we all enjoyed Fethiye. It had a lot to offer everyone. The hotel was a definite bonus, with the best showers we have used in a long while. The staff were all attentive, and provided the kind of service you want. They were there, but not in your face. Nicely efficient but discrete. The town offered the usual amenities, as well as the historic places you must see. Like more Lycian tombs. After Myra, we were all experts at recognising those! A sarcophagus which was a large double fronted one, with an arched lid bearing faded reliefs of Lycian warriers. We had seen plenty of those too, in Kekova Roads! All strewn about the hill sides. It made me smile that Fethiye had made so much of there one. We had seen dozens, and even where they were chiselled out of stone in the quarries. I guess that was the benefit of travelling on Janika. She really can show you things that other forms of travel cannot.
The highlight for Karen and I was a trip to The Old Turkish Baths, in the centre of Fethiye. Here we spent an afternoon having a Turkish Bath; Rose oil Massage and Karen had a face pack too. It all took about nearly three hours. Afterwards we felt thoroughly cleansed and relaxed. Fortunately, Karen prevented me from exposing myself, as I donned the little Turkish towel around my waste with nothing on beneath, before she reminded me I should wear my trunks!
We were taken through the main chamber, as four young New Zealand ladies were going through the rubbing and washing, and on into a side chamber where we scooped water from a urn being constantly filled with water, over us, periodically as we got hotter and hotter.
Our turn came to be laid on top of a large marble raised plinth, where we were doused in water, and soap and had a sea salt hand scrub in turn. Then sat on the marble seat, and doused in water. Some ice cold. (Which made Karen screech) Then back onto the marble plinth again. Afterwards, we were taken into another place for our massage. It was a mixture of pain and pleasure. But one I would happily do again, and afterwards we were invigorated.
Hasan was the chap who did my massage, and Karen had a lady. So, there we were in an old fashioned 'Haman'. This one was over 400 years old, and not much had changed at all. It was built by Yavuz Sultan Selim in the 16th Century. And was an example of Ottoman architecture. Open from 7am - 12pm every day. Just a fantastic experience.

We decided to stay two nights in Fethiye, as Steve and Leanne could travel to the airport from Fethiye, and dropped Gocek from our itinerary. It gave us all a well earned rest. We ate in the hotel dinning both nights, on a table outside infront of the waters edge, and watched the sunset. Very atmospheric, and memorable. A great way to finish our journey together cruising long the Lycian coast. Where others had been a long time ago.

On the morning of 23 July, it was time for breakfast, and afterwards Steve and Leanne took a taxi to the airport. We said our farewells, and suddenly our 10 days together was gone. We had some great fun, but time passes so quickly, and they were gone.

nc

20 July
We departed Kalkan at noon, after the girls had done a good shop, for things other than fruit and veg, for a change. So, it did them good. It was a longish day to reach Karacaoren, near Olu Denitz, as we had to motor much of the way, and at times in an unforgiving swell. But, on the plus side, we did pass 'the Seven Capes' a notorious area where in times gone by, the pilot book tells us that many a ship was lost through ship wreck.
We tied up to buoy at 6.30pm along with over 20 other boats, and checked the rope and chunk of concrete which was our only connection with the earth this night! The swimming was as lovely as usual, and I know that we have not swam as much in a few days as this before.
At night we took the Dink to a big timber like shack on the land, where we had dinner, with by now the crews from around 30 boats. By having dinner, you saved any mooring fee, so everyone seemed to take that as the plan. A wild Turkish, violin bearing man soon started giving us the benefit of his repertoire, and maybe in his eyes, settling us down for a good night. For me, I was glad when he finished! Grilled Chicken, and Vegetable casserole with mezes and water mellon, and more were all included in the price. We couldn't manage it all. Oh. And a few Efes (lager) to wash it all down. Quite late we returned to Janika, who was still there, bobbing at her buoy.
nc

15 July
Karen and I enjoyed a swim in lovely warm water. I had a shower off the back of the boat, and looked across the bay, and saw Steve and Leanne waving. It was our signal. So, I jumped into the dink, and made my way across to pick them up.
I was keen to get away, as we had a long days sail in front of us. But, just as we were discussing departure, Karen’s swimming top slipped out of her hand as she was pegging it to the rail! We all looked in mild shock, as it slowly sunk beneath the waves. And, I had just showered, and dried off! But, as my hair was shortest! I dived into the waters, and with the help of a grappling hook, managed to retrieve the top from the bottom of the sea bed about 6m below.
Soon, we were away, and heading off for the nights anchorage at Karaoz Limani.
On the way, we watched a couple of dolphins passing by. Slowly, and in there own time. They simply passed under Janika and reappeared the other side, without missing a stroke. Nature at its best.
16 July
Up early, and by 8am we were off to Finike. There was a calm sea all the way across, and by 10.10am we were tied up in Finike Marima. It looked a very attractive place.
As we had breakfasted on the way, we were ready for a quick start, and we made our way to hire a car, because this was the best place to visit St. Nicholas, yes, Father Christmas’s Church, as well as the ancient city of Myra, home of the Lycian People.
There were no cars available, all taken. That was a sign of us being in the busy period. So, we walked into town, and hoped that we would find something. Maybe a café owner would let us use his car for the day?
Well, nearly. We ended up with a shop keeper giving us some rather large glasses of Turkish tea, as well as showing us his wares of decorative dishes, all hand made as well as many necklaces and bangles. At the same time, in response to our needs, he called his friend to come over to taxi us around to Myra.
A couple of dishes were negotiated over tea, and we also, negotiated an afternoon car hire with driver who was called Ali. A rather nice older gentleman, who turned out to be well spoken in English, knowledgeable, and good company.
Ali first took us to Demre, where we learnt about the fact that St. Nicholas came from Turkey!!!!! And was later taken on by Germany and the rest of us. We walked around St. Nicholas Church, and found it all very interesting. Apparently, he was a born to a wealthy family, at the end of the third century around 60km from Demre. Every year on the anniversary of Jesus Christ’s birthday, the poor found golden apples, toys and snacks on their doorsteps. But no one knew who the benevolent person was. Years passed before one night, the night guard of Myra caught a man in a strange suit holding a huge sack. His identity was revealed. St. Nicholas was also, made bishop as a result of his walking into the church, after some sailors had earlier arrived, saved from a storm, and they believed that he had saved them.
Lunch in Demre was all the nicer for us being placed right in front of an air conditioning unit.
Afterwards Ali took us to Myra, where we observed the rock tombs and theatre. Just amazing. Look up ‘Myra rock tombs’ should be enough in your browser to show you the fascinating pictures, and history.
We returned to Finike, and after eating a large lunch, ate watermelon for dinner. Karen convinced me it was enough. But Steve and I, I suspect were not convinced! Good for the soul though. And stomach.
17 July
Saturday was market day, and what a market. The streets were full of tables laden with fresh fruit and vegetable produce, all grown locally, and in serious large supply in variety and volume. The market holders were friendly. So much so, that one man said that we were good for business. We were a bit of interest, because Finike is not a tourist town, just a normal locals town, and therefore we stood out! The prices were real Turkish as well. Not inflated. We bought lots, but I recall Karen bought 1Kg of tomatoes and 1 Kg of Potatoes for 90p for both.

It was a real pleasure meeting all the lovely friendly Turkish people, and I think being ‘non-tourist’ made an extra difference.

Around lunchtime, we decided to depart. This is where Nigel lost concentration, and after all instructions were duly given to the crew, I made a mistake. As Janika moved away from the quay, Leanne gently asked me, whether the rope around a cleat, and still attached to the concrete quay, should be loosened. It has to be said, that I moved FAST, and duly averted an embarrassing moment. Thank you Leanne. Thanks to a nice German couple next door and our bow thrusters moving us sharply to port, we moved out into the open water of the marina. Here Leanne, made another suggestion, about me having said I wanted to fill up with Diesel, but momentarily forgotten! So, we moved towards the fuel berth. Here we found a stink pot tied up, and were told that they would be 40 minutes. So, we went outside, and anchored in the bay and had lunch before returning and loaded up with 200 litres of diesel.
We sailed and motored and anchored in Gokkaya Bay just north of Kekova Sands at 7.10pm. 6m of water, and 30m chain out. (Steve had helmed us in, very competently) Lovely quiet anchorage. A swim was a must, and we all dived in. Not actually, but Steve did!

18 July
Before breakfast Leanne Steve and I took the dink out and went to see inside a cave. It was big, and we heard bats inside.
Breakfast onboard, watermelon and toast, and we watched a turtle briefly before he dived back under the water.
At 10.30am we weighed anchor, Leanne helmed Janika and we made for Ucagiz, just down through Kekova Roads, a channel between Kekova Island and the mainland, which makes for something like an inland sea. So, little sea and great for its calm.
Already tripper boats were beginning to arrive with there loads of passengers eager to see the sunken city of Simena. Or, maybe just have a swim in the crystal clear waters.
It only took us an hour, and we anchored just down from Ucagiz at 11.30am in 4m of water. We took the dink across to KaleKoy, the new name for where the old city of Simena sits mostly under the water, sunken by earthquakes over the ages.
Fresh orange juices all round, and we sat under the shade and enjoyed watching the comings and goings, all about.
After that, Steve and Leanne made for the castle, we directed them where to go, and as we had been a few weeks before we let them enjoy the walk alone. And the heat! But there are good views from the top, and a photo must be taken.
I had forgotten to bring my shoes! So, I stayed close to the harbour while Karen went to see a Turkish school teacher we had met last time. I made my way gingerly across the stoney dusty ground and took a photo I wanted of the sarcophagus lying in the water by the edge of the harbour. Sounds morbid, but an interesting subject, not seen often.
In the afternoon we had another swim. In 37 degrees of water. The hottest so far. And maybe a little too warm!
Dinner onboard tonight, and we stayed onboard. Steve was a bit low having the effects of three doses of piriton tablets, due to some nasty looking boils on his leg.
19 July
We weighed anchor at 11am, after a quick trip ashore to buy some bread and postcards, and enjoyed a drink and watermelon in a local guest house, run by an English girl, who had married a Turk and lived there for 14 years.
A mixture of sailing and motoring today. At one point we popped into a small bay on the north side of Kastellorizon to see if it was suitable for lunch. So, we were in Greece, Europe! The bay was a bit windy, so we eventually dropped anchor in a beautiful bay on Kara, a Turkish island, uninhabited, except for some goats.
The bay was a treat. We swam and donned our snorkels, and marvelled at the natural unspoilt scenery. To soon, it was time to leave, and we sailed all the way to Kalkan
On a close reach, at up to 6 knots in a force 3. Wonderful. Tied up in Kalkan harbour at 7.10pm, and had G & T’s all round. Well, it was well after six! (Even Steve has partly given in, and relented on his 9pm threshold.)
In the evening we went to The Olive Garden restaurant. One we had heard about, and it was a good call. Very nice. Good food, service, everything. And sensible prices.
By the time we returned to Janika it was past midnight, just. We had a tea, and went to bed.
20 July
This morning has been interesting. Karen and Leanne have been off to the shops. And Steve and I left to keep watch. Already we have had two boats lifting there anchors and catching ours too. The harbour is small, and congested. It is normal for anchor chains to become crossed, and so, we are doing a good job of easing off our chain as another boat pulls his anchor up. Then releasing our chain, so we can then haul our chain back in. The theory is good. I’m just glad that its not windy!
So, all being well, this will find its way onto the web site in an hours time. Today is warm, but kinder. 29 degrees at 10.30am. Regards to all. nc

We arrived in Moonlight Bay at 7.10pm, and dropped anchor in 5m of water, putting out 30m of chain to give us a good hold. Not expecting any problem with the weather. We had an evening of contrasts and, as often happens, when you think you have found paradise, something happens to prove you're wrong! The evening started with us watching turtles crossing the bay. Their heads popping up to look about as they gently made their way across. We had a swim, and enjoyed 34 degrees, likening it to having a bath! Not much else was in the bay, except for a few gulets parked beyond us. Dinner was cipura fish (sea bream) and potato salad, tomato and cucumber salad. Lovely. Washed down with gin and tonics. (Leanne's trying to pretend she had water, but I have to tell the truth. It was a really good, (as in) double G & T.
Then at about 9.00 it started! Music, or raging disco music. So, loud our ears nearly hurt! It went on for hours. So, that's why theres no boats here!!!!!
Quite a humid night, as it has been all along this mountainous coast. The mountains lift up the clouds and dampness fills the air.
Probably good for growing bananas.

15th July. Steve and Leanne's 10th Wedding Anniversary. Congrats all round. We had an early start and weighed anchor at 7.45am, as I wanted to be in Phaselis before the tripper boats arrived. (If you are interested look up 'PHASELIS' in your browser.)
We had breakfast on the way, to save time, and anchored in the west bay at 8.50am. I took Steve and Leanne across the bay in the dink, (Dinghy) and they paid there 8 turkish lira each, about £3.50, and went for a walk where Alexander the Great had been in 333 BC, and Emperor Hadrian had walked about 2nd century AD. So, in good company.

Anyway. Suffice to say. All are well, and I must leave this now, as we are off to the market in Finike. More later. Maybe a couple of days before we get internet though, as we shall be anchoring in Kekova Roads.

nc

Quick note, as we are just about to depart Antalya. Steve and Leanne arrived last night just after midnight, both well.
Today we went into Antalya town on a dolmus and had a nice mese lunch with Efes, beer, and plenty of water to hydrate ourselves.
Returned to Janika, and now crew briefing has been done, we are ready to leave. It is now 4pm local time, and we have a short run of 15 miles to Kemer. We hope to anchor in Moonlight Bay ourside the marina, and get ourselves a better evening breeze, as well as save us about 35 euros!
All well. nc

We arrived about lunchtiime on Friday 9th in Alanya Marina. We left Girne, N.Cyprus about 12.30 lunchtime and after 45 minutes motoring the winds became strong enough to sail cross the Mediterranean sea, 6 knots at first but strengthening later to give us a good enough close haul till 1030 pm when the seas became a bit lumpy and confused and we pulled in the sails and motored through the night. We tried to take watches but in reality little real sleep was had and as sun rose over Turkey it was a beautiful morning. About 7 am the winds were very light but we managed to sail at about 3 knots all the way to Alanya. Happy to arrive but very tired.

We checked in to the Marina but the fun was about to begin as we had to officially check into Turkey! The marina staff were superb trying to usher us by taxi through the process of Tax Department for our Visa, Health department (????? for what we know not), Harbourmaster, Port Police, Immigration, back to Harbourmaster. The whole process is in urgent need of simplification and a real bore for yachties, and all the authorities too I am sure. It took us about 3 hours but most people were well over that, some 6 hours. We managed to make it a nice experience and especially as we had checked out with the same offices only 9 days previously, they remembered us and we were even offered a Turkish tea from the port police who proceeded to ask us many interesting questions about our life. We in turn subjected them to our own questions and a lot of good natured communication was enjoyed .

We have spent the last few days utilising the free washing machine facilities, the lovely swimming pool in between cleaning Janika in readiness for Leanne and Steve. It has been stifling hot here and the Turks say it is not as hot as last year!!

This morning I dozily put a washload in the machine and was subjected to a challenging dialogue from a lady from NZ. I has stupidly assumed that the machine had been left on the quick wash which takes 30 minutes, no, some previous person had changed the setting slightly and the machine was going to take 2 and half hours. My towels were washed to bits and worst of all I had commandeered the second machine for a longer time than was necessary and this could not be altered. However this chance meeting with Shirley the lady from NZ led to her using her sewing machine to repair our bimini which had been ripped severely during strong winds. Pete, her husband and Shirl have just been aboard for drinks this evening as a thankyou. A very interesting couple who have many years of sailing experience under their belts and who we hope we will encounter later this year as we both cross over to Greek waters. kc
We depart for Antalya in the morning at around 6am, and hope to find a place in Antalya ready to meet Steve and Leanne that evening. It's all getting exciting.

Arrived in Alanya at noon today after a good sail across from Cyprus. We sailed over 60% of the 100 miles due to a rather nice force 3 mostly from the west, and a light sea. We saw a few ships, and some fishing boats. Most interesting of all, was this morning when feeling a bit jaded, having alternated with sleep and watches through the night, we saw the water bubbling in several places around breakfast time. At least that is what we thought it was for some fish, who were frantically bashing the water that made it look like it was boiling. We saw several medium silver fish over 12 inches long jumping all over. It wasn't clear whether they were the predators or the meal!
We were greeted into Alanya Marina once again,and made to feel welcome. Some of the boats in port were known to us, and a 'hello' from 'Arwen' was nice too. (Jackie and Robert)
Then began the trial of 'clearing into Turkey'. It was a trial, eight offices were visited, some gave our paperwork six stamps, others stamps and dates and signatures. Tax Office for a Visa; Port office for a new Transit Log; Harbourmaster office for stamping to start the whole thing off; Health department; Port Police where we were given Turkish tea, and a nice chat; Customs office; harbourmaster again and then Customs again to hand in a copy of the form which had by now many stamps and signatures. It all took about three and a half hours, two taxis and a dolmus, and plenty of walking.
Anyway, we are now officially cleared into Turkey, and all the better for that. I think.
By the time we Karen had suggested I buy another T shirt, and a new cap, it was time to return to Janika.
We've just had a drink, a wine and a G & T for me, and all is well with the world again.
Cheers. nc

Our six night stay in Girne, North Cyprus, has been great.
John and Jenny, our close neighbours in Cheltenham, who live in Girne too, helped us get the most out of this fascinating country, and helped us to understand the struggles that still go on today, some thirty six years since the Turks stormed the island in the north to protect their countrymen, which ended up in a split country, with the only split capital city remaining in Europe. 37% of Cyprus is now Turkish Cypriot, and the remaining 63% Greek Cypriot.
It was interesting, and so good to hear the lady in a shoe shop, on the Greek side express the view that all of them were Cypriots. Not Greek or Turkish, but Cypriots. How she remembered when as a young lady, they all danced together in the streets. But not now. Now, they are separated, and the politics remains a difficult, if even un-resolvable problem. There is so much to learn about this, and it is very complex.

So often, we travel about the world, where our forefathers have been, and I marvel at the way in which we are so well received ourselves. We have done some good, but also, some bad too, and to take a simple stance about some of these complicated matters, is to ‘not understand the problem’.

Enough of history.

We have travelled over the Kyrenian Mountains, passing through pine clad covered craggy mountains, interspersed with olive and other various green hues along narrow roadways, many on the edge, with steep cliff faces beneath. Fantastic views.

St.Hillarion Castle, where eight hundred years ago, Queen Eleanor conspired to have her brother in law murdered, because she believed that he had killed her husband. A Medievial Castle where you can imagine a little of what life was like. Where Richard the Lionheart took the island in the 12th Century and later sold it on to The Knights of St. John. A crusader castle.

Nicosia, where we walked through across the gate into Greek speaking Cyprus, and I managed to convert from ‘Merhaba’ to ‘Yassos’, without getting myself mixed up with the languages.
And, It must be said, the best milkshake that I have ever enjoyed, even if it did cost over 7 euro!
A visit up to the highest building in Nicosia, to see the city, with Turkish flags on one side, and Greek on the other.
And then, to return back into North Cyprus, through another gate. But a different one, and then we sought out where we had left our car! All unforgettable memories, but ones that show you the people, and places. (“Nothing like getting lost, to show you the place” Karen said.)

Famagusta, where the old city, is much demolished, some through the ages, and not all due to the Turks. But, we enjoyed our visit, looked for a hotel, as it was getting late. We did find a Pension, but you may be surprised, after our Indian trips, and some of the accommodation we accepted there, this was indescribable. We turned down a room for 30TL, about £13.50, as it was basic in the extreme. But finding nowhere else, we eventually, ended up driving over the mountains at night, and arrived back at the boat after midnight. An interesting journey, not to be repeated in the dark at least!

Bombay Sapphire at @ £12 a bottle was too good a chance to miss, and indeed we stocked up on drinks which were very reasonable. (If you are reading this Steve, we’re just getting ready for you, when we pick you up in four days time!)

Lovely people, very friendly, and always willing to help made our short stay here wonderful.

Thank you North Cyprus and John and Jenny for your hospitality.

We arrived in Girne, North Cyprus yesterday afternoon after a wonderful sail across from Turkey. More information may be added later, but now we are now planning to meet our friends John and Jenny, who live here in Girne.
nc

After an unexpectedly quiet night we still woke early so didn’t waste time in getting away at 7am. We had read in the pilot guide of Phaeselis which is an ancient harbour enroute to Kemer and decided it would be worth stopping for a look. We arrived at 9.20 and anchored in the left hand side of the bay which was totally unoccupied. Decided to have a swim first as the water was so inviting and saw a small turtle swim by. We may not have seen any dolphins for several weeks but the turtles are making up for them.

We dinghied ashore, paid our 8 Turkish lira to enter the site of ancient Phaeselis. It is totally raw and unspoiled to date. It is unbelieveable to think that all those years ago (333 BC) Alexander the Great, and also Roman Emperor Hadrian (2nd Century AD) also was there for some time. There is also a magnificent theatre which has to be seen to be fully appreciated.

We returned to Janika as fleets of tripper and gullets were descending into the bays. They zoom in at speed drop their anchors, the holidaymakers leap off the boats into the water and half an hour later they are back on board and heading off for another location to do the same all over again.

Just as we were raising the anchor, I foolishly was trying to get the tripping line out of the way and dropped the boat hook, Nigel very kindly jumped in to retrieve it. I held back as I had just showered and washed my hair, not wanting to repeat it. I had hoped the boat hook would float to the rear of the boat nicely so we could catch it. I am suffering from dropsy today as later I lost a pair of Nigel’s boxers over the side when I was unpegging them.

Arrived in Kemer Marina about 2.30 pm. It looks nice. The marineros were ultra helpful even came onboard to pull up the lazy line. I didn’t know what to do with myself!!!!

We set of for lunch in the town. On our return we realised that we were moored alongside “Morne Fortune” Chris and Lois, and “Endeavour” Brian and Carole who had been in Kas. We met up later in the Marina bar for Happy Hour drinks. A very enjoyable evening. We had a long walk through the town later which seems to be full of fashion shops.

Sunday 27th June

Lazy day. Met up with Chris and Lois, Brian and Carol for Happy Hour drinks again followed by a good meal in town. We all watched the England/Germany football match together and saw England go down 4-1. I think that puts us out of the World Cup. But, we had a thoroughly lovely evening with good company.

Monday 28th June

I hope we didn’t wake anyone. We tried to depart as quietly as we could at 6.20 am.
It’s about 70 miles to Alanya and we have to make about 5 knots per hour to be there by 7 – 8 pm. The sea was flat calm therefore motoring was the only option till 11.30 when the wind increased all of a sudden to about 10 knots so out came the sails for a brief hour then motor back on till 1pm when we had an exhilarating sail for nearly 3 hours with the wind on the beam we were averaging 5.8 for the first hour, 6.3 for the second which was brilliant followed by 5.9 before the wind went all wobbly and the swell increased so we motor sailed again all the way into Alanya arriving at 7.20pm.
Decided to drop anchor in the first bay by the castle as it was calm and no other boats were there. Alarm bells should have rung at that point. We sat and watched many turtles passing across the small bay with their little heads bobbing up for a quick look.
THEN …..the first gullet tripper boat came by and circled us, followed by another and another, all showing the tourists the Castle above and the ancient Roman sheds where they used to store the galleys. We settled down to sleep only to be disturbed by the disco party gullet who anchored fairly close to us and played odd music till about midnight.
Not to mention the noise from the clubs on the shore nearby – we woke up a bit sleepy.

Tuesday 29th June

After the 6th gullet had circled us we decided to up anchor and head for Alanya Marina about 3 miles away. We were all tied up safely by 11 am. This is a lovely new marina, a lot of space at the moment for boats. Excellent facilities and staff. They even have washing machines which are complimentary to use with perfect instructions. The toilet and shower facilities are the best yet. There is a free bus service into the market twice a week but that was today so we missed it. It is even a great place to check in and out of Turkey as the wonderful marina staff will help and take care of it for you very simply.

kc.

Kas is a beautiful little place buzzing with boats of all shapes, trippers, gullets, fishers, dive boats and a few yachts that manage to arrive early enough to get a place.
We had planned to take a trip to Kastellorizon (which is a short boat ride across the water in Greece) but feared leaving Janika unattended. We will have to leave that for another day.

A diesel lorry arrived to fill up a local boat so we took the opportunity to top up our tanks too, then departed for Kekova Roads an area we have heard much praise about. I clearly remember Mike and Helen from s/y Unda saying it was their favourite place in all of Turkey so we are looking forward to exploring new territory.

We sailed slowly through the small islands close to Kastellorizon until we reached the cut into Kekova Roads. This area is like a series of bays within lagoons and small islands. We arrived at Ucagiz (pronounced Uchiz) about 5pm anchoring in thick mud, lovely holding! A busy little place with tripper boats and gulets coming and going. Several yachts of varying nationalites anchored around, Canadian, American, German, French, British. The quayside has been developed into a sort of marina with pontoons in recent years to accommodate the gulets and tripper boats who bring holidaymakers to the restaurants.

We took the dinghy ashore after dinner for a coffee and hopefully to find wifi to check the weather forecast. The restaurants were very quiet except for one, which has a huge TV screen that was showing one of the World Cup games. The forecast showed very strong winds the day after next for two days so we decided the next day we must visit the antique city of Simena which is today called Kalekoy , a small Lycian coastal city from the 4th century B.C.

20th June
Nigel’s birthday. What a beautiful setting for his birthday. I had sneakily managed to buy him a backgammon set in Gocek so we should have some fun learning how to play.

About 11 am we took the dinghy to Kalekoy and passed over part of the sunken city of ancient Simena, amazing. Your imagination is really racing with questions about how the people lived and the fantastic building skills that the locals had developed. You pass over traces of the civilisation, partly sunk beneath the water after earthquakes during the ancient period. These traces include stone stairs and the ruins of houses and piers partly under water of 4 -5 metres depth, crystal clear. The area is officially registered as a first class archeologically protected area.

We tied up our dink (as Nigel now likes to call the dinghy after our lovely Aussie friends referred to theirs as the “dink”) on the first restaurant pontoon, the Americans ahead of us reached there first, so we followed as it was the closest tie up point. We all introduced ourselves and became better acquainted over a morning coffee. Dominique and Ron on Peregrine Dover De and Fred on Escape Key. Good company, combined with a uniquely beautiful serenity about this tiny little settlement, which can only be accessed by sea makes it feel like a sort of paradise.

After coffee Nigel and I decided we had to climb up to the castle to appreciate the magnificent views of Kekova and it’s surroundings. We were accompanied by Kameza and Sherry, two local girls aged 16 and 17 who assumed themselves to be our guides, advising us of interest points along the way including shell fossils in the castle stone. The payment they exacted from us was the purchase of two shawl/pashmina/pareo edged with small shells which they told us they had dived for and hand sewn themselves???. One of the most interesting sights are the Lycian type tombs (sarcophagus) which are rock-cut house like tombs. Also, the theatre carved into the bedrock in the centre of the castle ruins with 7 tiers of seats with a capacity for 700 people.

Upon our return to the taverna we enjoyed a simple lunch, Dominique, Ron and Fred were still there and after lunch they invited us to join them to play Mexican Dominoes, a game we had heard of but never played. We had a brilliant afternoon with good company, learned a new game and had a nice breeze passing through the open taverna. A lovely way to pass your birthday too. We returned to Janika about 4pm. I cooked a steak and onions with rice for dinner.

Monday 21st, after a quick trip ashore for bread, we set off for a change of scene and also to make water. We had to dodge around outside Kekova for about three hours to top our tanks up in preparation for the two days “big blow” of F6/7s. We anchored in a perfect little bay in Gokkaya Limani in about 12 feet of water, well positioned on one side of the small section of this part of the bay. That evening we watched a turtle swim by and I was so excited. We even had a swim in very cold but fresh water which enters the bay from the mountains. Exhilarating indeed and it certainly cooled us down.

Tuesday 22nd Another beautiful day, slightly cooler. Swimming and watching the gullets and tripper boats come and go. We went for an explore on the dinghy but decided where we were, was just right. By early evening there were at least 21 boats of varying sizes parked close by us, they appear to be rushing in to shelter from the stormy winds outside. The forecast says West 5/6 locally 7 seas rough locally rough to very rough for the next 24 hours. Despite this we had a reasonably quiet night.

Wed 23rd
The forecast was getting worse. Several gulets remained tied up, and a group of four tripper boats were still tied together just off our port bow.
In fact. A man called ‘Nadir’ called to us, and offered breakfast. We accepted and rowed over in the dink. Nadir introduced us to the other tripper boats skippers who had decided to stay here in the anchorage for safety. We both enjoyed water mellon, olives, bread with goats cheese and Turkish chai. As well as good company, for they were very happy to have us join them. We had taken some gifts of wrapped vine leaves, biscuit and some Ouzo, which the young lad liked. Nadir spoke the best English, and was concerned about the forthcoming weather. We thought that we had never been anywhere so sheltered and in mud too!
We received a text message from Mike and Jane onboard ‘Restless’, who wondered where we were, and said,” You safely tucked in somewhere? In Kekova and we are in our second day of force 8. Gusts of 43 knots!
They were just around the corner, where we had been before, and it was 8 o’clock at night. I couldn’t resist, and phoned Mike, explaining that we were half an hour away, just up the road! But that all day the strongest wind we received was 22 knots. Force 6. Nadir invited us onboard with his chums for dinner, and despite holding up my fork and saying we were just about to eat, he said “in half an hour”, just eat a little”. We did, and it was nice. They are so friendly, and Nadir told me about some good places to see on our way to Kemer.
It was windy that night, but not as we had feared, and the cove we were in proved to be both well sheltered and good holding. Great things to have when at anchor.

Thursday 24th
Next morning ‘Restless’ appeared around the headland and anchored next to us. We had a good old chat onboard Restless, and enjoyed telling our stories.
Again in the evening, after a swim Mike and Jane came onboard and we had drinks before dinner.

Friday 25th
We had to go today. We had been in Kekova for 6 nights, and it was all so lovely we could have stayed longer. Swimming, watching for the occasional turtle to pass by and generally relax and read a good book.

We were off early, and waved good bye to Mike and Jane as Janika eased out of the cove at 5 past 8. After Karen had managed to extricate our anchor from the lovely mud. The wind was on the nose, so we motored, and we needed to make water and build up our power anyway. After rounding ‘the five islands’ we headed north and enjoyed the southerly wind take us up towards Cineviz Limani, a place that Nadir had recommended.

At 4.30 pm we anchored in the bay close to the beach and too close to the rocks for Karen’s comfort. (But it always looks as though you are closer than you are.)
The winds came, and at 7pm we had lightening thunder and rain.
Another Najad came into the bay and parked across in the middle, and a large gullet too, against the rocks, which fell straight down into the sea. On three sides we were surrounded, by high mountains. It was a magnificent location. If a little scary in the middle of thunder, and lightening. We watched little fishing boats come out from their base against the beach, and move out into the bay to fish during the night. They didn’t move further than 400 metres all night! And they looked like a poor set of fishermen and women. For the wives helped as well.

After Simon and Suzy left, life quietened down and we made our way back to Marmaris, to collect a new awning we had ordered and have the new one remaining fuel injector fitted. We stayed another night in Ekincik on our way there, and on 13 June anchored in Pupa Bay close to Yacht Marine for one night.
Engin arrived as planned and fitted our new awning, three skylight covers to protect them from the strong sunlight, and moved two tape fasteners to better secure the bimini. It all fitted perfectly and we were very pleased with the effect of the awning which was made of a light ‘Sunbrella’ material in the colour oyster, which let in the light, but kept us in shade. We were sure this would help us in the weeks ahead.
However, after two nights in Yacht Marine Emre from the Yanmar dealership said our injector was still in customs, and they didn’t know when it would arrive. Always ‘tomorrow’. I said, thanks Emre, we’re leaving tomorrow, and so we did. The heat in the marina was getting to us, and we needed some breeze. I gave Emre a date and said we would call back in on our return from Cyprus.
By now, it wasn’t the news about terrorists in Gaza, and its proximity to Lebanon and Syria that put us off, but the thought of the temperatures that we would endure along the East Med. Coast that has made us consider Cyprus as a worthy destination, before we return to Greece. Interestingly, you would be amazed at how little some folk sail out here, content to waddle around the little bays and inlets for the whole summer. Maybe they have it right. But for the moment Karen and I like to go and see places.
On the 16 June, we departed with great plans to do an overnight passage to Kas. (Prounounced Cash).
After provisioning we eventually left at 11.50am and the early afternoon enjoyed a good sail on a broad reach, with the wind over our shoulder making about 5 knots. At around 5pm the wind dropped, which was fine, but the swell increased and became heavy on our quarter. I was feeling the effects of the motion, and so, we made for a bay in the Gulf of Fethiye, and anchored in Kucuk Kuyruk at 7.30pm. 40 miles in the afternoon. A good distance.The pilot book describes it as “ a spectacular anchorage”. And so it is. Quite beautiful. There were three other boats and a gullet inside, and we found a place on the side for ourselves. Karen swam with the line ashore to a rock, after the anchor was down. The water was lovely and warm, even at 8pm, and we enjoyed Leverek for tea. (Sea Bass). In fact we decided it was so nice, that we would spend two nights and recharge ourselves.
17 June.
In the morning I gave the generator her 100 hourly service, and afterwards Karen helped me to bleed the system of air. That done, I felt good and was looking forward to reading some more of my Robert Goddard book, called ‘A name to a face’. Very good.
Then without warning, the wind in our liitle bay, with steep sided hills to protect us, blew a freshening wind across, and put Janika’s side close to the edge of a rocky outcrop, too close! We moved our ropes a little, pulled in anchor chain, but was no help, and we momentarily, felt a bit vulnerable. There was only one thing to do. And that was to move. So, Karen jumped into the water, and cleared the lines, while I pulled in on the anchor chain, which immediately brought Janika out into the centre of the bay. Safe. Karen climbed onboard, we retrieved our lines, and anchor, and with the wind still blowing across strongly, there was no way we were going to relay and berth the boat. We had to leave.
Lunch was served on the way across the Gulf, and we let Janika take us at over 4 knots on a small piece of Genoa, towards Olu Deniz.
We anchored inside Gemiler Adasi, (close to Olu Deniz). Changed our minds about the first place, and later free anchored close by at Karacaoren Buku in 12m of water with 50m of chain. It was an open area away from other yachts, and we felt we had a good hold. Nevertheless, we put on the anchor alarm, and set it at 0.003m.
18 June.
We awoke to force 4-5 winds, at 4am. Janika had swung around onto the south side of the anchor, and then the anchor alarm sounded. We were not dragging, but Janika was clearly being pulled at full stretch from her anchor, and whilst still in darkness and drinking a cup of tea, a 24 knot gust came through. By then, we were, you can imagine, ‘fully awake!’
It was an interesting experience because, we were getting a warm to hot driving wind on our backs. (It felt like someone was holding a hair dryer across you). Then, suddenly, we both felt it ar the same moment. It was instantly replaced by a cool, or cold wind. And then, another blast of hot wind again. We heard our boathook roll onto the deck, and it fell into the water. I grabbed our other boathook, but although we had hold for a second, it was no good, and our boathook that had been with us since Sweden, slipped below the waves, and was no more.
We realised that the hot wind we had experienced was the local Katabatic wind off the mountains. When it strikes, it does so, without warning, and lasts up to a couple of hours only.
At 6.30am we raised anchor and set off for Kas.
We passed the Seven Capes, a notorious area for strong winds, and kept 2-3 miles off as suggested in the Pilot. Mostly motoring today, although we did manage some sailing as we approached Kas and came through the islands around.
At 15.35pm we tied up at Kas harbour, and a nice man called Ismail took our lines. He came from the local taverna and it was obviously his way of trying to gain custom by helping boaties tie up.
19 June.
We ate onboard last night, with meatballs, but had a walk ashore, and fruit and a drink at Ismail’s place, called Smileys.
This morning, he came along and threw us a lovely fresh loaf of bread. What a wonderful way to live together, and make friends.
The harbour man, has just charged us 60 Turkish Lira for one night stay. I thought he said sixteen, and couldn’t believe 60! About £27.00. Seems a lot, but then Kas does have a certain ‘cache’!!! At least it does now.

nc

11-16 June.
We anchored in 'Laundry Bay' on the first night in Skopea Limani. So called because people used to wash there clothes under the spring there. Now boats collect water from the spring.
We ventured back to Marmaris via Ekincik to collect an awning that we ordered to help keep us cooler in the heat we are expecting as we sail further east. And of course one new injector from Malin marine.
We have renewed friendship with some people while we have been back here in Marmaris, such as John and Jenny on Sovereign; and Jacques on Mayero.
But the all ellusive injector, has not arrived so we have decided to leave now and return at the end of July for the swop to be made.
About to depart in one hour after washing out the water filters! Never a moment when there's not a job to be done. But easier in the morning before the heat gets up.
Next stop probably, Kas.
nc 16.6.10

Our friends Simon and Suzy arrived by taxi in the afternoon, Monday 7th June. They were determined to come onboard Janika whilst we were in Turkey, although commitments limited them to just four days. So, we concentrated on sailing around the Fethiye Korfezi, a gulf with plenty of beautiful bays and scenery to rival most places.
We motored to Janika in the 'dink' (the new name for dinghy, which we picked up from our Aussie frind Mark) where Karen had waited onboard, because we had experienced some strong winds during the early afternoon, and kept Janika safe in the anchorage not far from Skopea Marina.
We raised anchor and found it had been secure in some nice thick grey mud. Janika motored out into the Skopea Limini, and we anchored inside a bay called Botynuz Buku, in 15m of water, letting out just 45m of chain, because there were several other boats anchored, and it looked like being fairly benign.
By then it was six o'clock, and time for our evening G & T's.
We were impressed with Simon and Suzy's modest packing, in two small soft bags, and they were soon nicely settled into the fore cabin. In fact I think Simon was relaxing as soon as he got out of the taxi, at Gocek. The warmth of the Turkish afternoon, and the stunning scenery had there effect.
Tuesday 8 June.
Breakfast was a surprise visit by a local Turkish lady and her son perhaps, arriving alongside Janika and offering us pancakes, and apple puff pastry cakes for later. Each was 5 Turkish Lira, and there was certainly more 'puff' than much else in the cakes, but it made for a interesting experience of local customs and I guess we helped the local economy!
Our plan was to visit Olu Denitz today, but it was overuled, by a gentle breeze from the south, that would have forced us to motor all the way, or tack, tack and more tacking, and still ended up motoring into the wind. So, we used the wind to its fullest and set on an easterly course, holding on a lovely beam reach, all the way across the gulf.
We arrived in Batikkaya Buku, just around the corner from Fethiye at about 3pm, and with the water temperature showing 29 degrees, we had a swim. Very nice. Simon and I cleaned off Janika's waterline as well.
We had dinner onboard whilst swinging at anchor. Meatballs, another one of Karen's delights, and I sometimes wonder how I lose weight when on Janika. We chatted until after midnight, there was so much to say. But an early start next day beckoned, and so we turned in.
Wednesday 9 June.
Today we would make for Olu Deniz. And we weighed anchor at 8.25am and motored off leaving what we had renamed 'Cock a Doodle Doodle Bay', because they woke us up at some unearthly hour in the morning!
We arrived at around 11am, and after trying to park close to the beach, found we were anchoring in 45m of water! Far too deep for safety, and as we were discussing our plans for tying up to a rock, Ahmed turned up with his ice-cream boat. It's a long story, and we wanted to practice anchoring and taking a line ashore on our own, but in the end we succumbed to Ahmed's offers, and used a mooring buoy instead of anchor, and with the girls swimming ashore with our 100m long rope, we did at least tie up to the rock ourselves. Well done girls. I'm not sure, how safe they were at times, as the swell was washing them around, but a great job was made, and no scrapes endured.
Oh. Yes, we did buy four ice creams from Ahmed.
We were in such a good spot, and safe too, that we spent the day and night tied up in Olu Deniz. Or at least just outside the lagoon, as boats are not now allowed inside the lagoon itself, because of concern about pollution, which we were pleased to see.
Simon and I went ashore for provisions in the dink. The return journey was not easy because of starting out against the oncoming waves, and the boat was awash with several waves crashing over the dink's bow. Simons phone suffered a dunking in the water, and was not showing much sign of life when he left. Next time I see one of those waterproof bags, I'll look at them with more interest! As well as this, paragliders were decending in groups of about 6-10 at a time, as people took advantage of an offer to fly in tandem with a pilot off a local mountain. Simon was interested, but time was short, and we valued our lives too.
In the afternoon the girls swam around into the lagoon which is Olu Deniz, and enjoyed the experience.
Dinner was a Korma Curry and Karen was assisted with Simon's chefs skills, as well as his flat breads which went down a treat too.
Thursday 10 June.
We departed Olu Deniz at 10.20 am and today had our best sail so far. We were close reaching all the way across the gulf, this time the other way, and enjoyed the ride. Suzy helmed for some time, and then we let Janika's auto pilot take over as we took in the sunshine, and enjoyed the breeze.
Lunch was at anchor in Ragged Bay, and in the afternoon we sailed on genoa alone up through the islands towards Skopea Marina where we planned to tie up for the night. Simon was keen to make sure we didn't go too fast, as he wanted to eke out the remaining time onboard Janika. It had all gone so fast, but perhaps the best sign of a short stay which had been great fun for all of us.
We tied up in Skopea Marina at 4.30 pm and in the evening we were treated to dinner on the front with a view from Gocek looking out onto Skopea Limini. Wonderful. I've forgotten what time we turned in, but it was late. Simon was savouring the last drops of time.
Friday 11 June.
All too soon it was time to leave, and at 11 am we walked with Simon and Suzy to the taxi stand and said our farewells.
How nice it was for us to meet first last year, on the island of Kalimnos, Greece, and enjoy some time together this year in Turkey.
Lovely memories.

A week in Marmaris (27.5 – 5.6)

We called into Marmaris where we had actually booked a marina berth at Yacht Marine for eight days. We had planned to have our engine serviced for its big one, which required a certified dealer to carry out the work. And, any other maintenance while we prepared for picking up Simon and Suzy in Gocek afterwards.


Marmaris was a lot better than we had feared. The marina was a delight, and very well organised too. Although one of the largest marinas around, (It can hold up to 2,500 boats on sea and land) it was well managed. Things like litterbins emptied regularly; toilet paper always in the block, and showers that work! You would be surprised.
Our neighbours, Kathy and Bruce, were a lovely couple, always ready with good advice, and interesting to chat to., across the boats as we lay, tied up on ‘Mike’ pontoon.
The marina was quite too, a real bonus, and we enjoyed catching up on some sleep.
The marina restaurant was very good quality, and prices that in England would have been pounds, rather than Turkish Lira, which are currently about 2.20 to the pound. So, about half price. We enjoyed a dinner with several boaties who Kathy had collected together, being the good organiser she is, and later another dinner on the night before we left, with Mike (pilot) and Margaret. Lovely couple too. I’m sure we’ll meet again.
The Yacht Marina was about five miles from Marmaris town, so we took several trips there on the dolmos bus, for 2.50 TL each, each way. Picking up stores. Karen bought some more cushions and cushion covers too.
We also, invited Mark and Nicolle over for lunch one day, and they came up from their boat ‘Sea Life’ from the anchorage in town, by dolmos. (If you want to see some good pictures they have taken on their way around the world! Put Sea Life into your bowser and see them. They are wonderful. In fact, chatting to them, has made us think about crossing the Atlantic again. Maybe they have given us some confidence.
A man called Emre, arranged for us to have our engine serviced, and on two days three men arrived and on day one, took a load of engine parts away, and subsequently returned and put them back in place. They were short of one new injector, as all four needed replacement, so we shall return to Marmaris before setting off along the Turkish coast further, and five hundred miles to Lebanon or Syria, if conditions allow.

5 June 2010
We let go from the pontoon, always the hardest, (to leave port) and sailed and motored our way to Ekincik. Spent a quiet night at anchor in a delightful bay, which will no doubt be packed in July and August, and had dinner onboard. Ekincik is set in a moderately sized bay, picturesque, where red cliffs and steeply wooded slopes rise up abruptly from the anchorage.

6 June 2010
Janika glided out of the anchorage quietly, with her newly serviced engine, and at least three new injectors humming away. We sailed almost the whole way on a glorious day, with a force 4 blowing, and mostly beam reaching and some broad reaching, achieving over seven knots along the way. And, Karen was happy because we were not leaning over much.
We saw another yacht behind us, and watched him close to us. So, a bit of testosterone caused me to let out all our sail, and Janika surged ahead, and we left him in the spray. Later on he caught us up again, as we had taken in the main, and were happily sailing on genoa alone, still doing 5.5 – 6 knots. As he pulled along side us, I waved and saw 43.5 on the side of his boat. So, he was bigger! Then, just as he edged ahead, and we decided to let him go, (although I did think about letting out our main sail again) the wind dropped, and whilst Janika kept going with her momentum of nearly 13 tons carving through the blue sea, his boat came up suddenly and stopped, with much flapping of sails. I didn’t laugh. But was tempted. We altered course to starboard where the wind was a little more fresh, away from the land, and we sailed away. Very satisfying.
Probably the best sail we have had this year.
We arrived in Gocek, and parked where the anchored boats were in about 15m depth. It’s a bit different here in Turkey. Need more chain.
We dug in and had a cup of tea. Nearly eight hours since we left Ekincik, and we were ready for a rest.

7 June 2010
Today we awoke to a flat calm sea. And will make preparations to receive Simon and Suzy this afternoon.

If we can find a wifi or internet café, we’ll get this off today.
At 11 o’clock its bright sunny and 27 degrees in the shade. Lovely. Not to hot yet!

nc

Happy at being given the Black Pearl berth, we settled down to some preparations before Linda (Karen's cousin) and husband Gordon arrived. The main elements were filling up with diesel, which we managed from a tanker lorry, and finding a good internet connection to suss out the likely weather for the forthcoming week. The boat was still on the 'thinking of selling' list, and another week like the last, would have made it a dead cert!
Anyway, we were in Greece, and the Gods were kind. It showed quite a blow for the following day, and then decreasing as the week carried on. So I was grateful.
Linda and Gordon arrived by taxi about 3.30pm, and met me just as I was off to collect a refill of petrol for the outboard motor.
A drink was soon in our hands. A sure sign that 'L & G' were onboard, and they settled in after a noisy flight, caused by some hooligans apparently from Scotland. Surely not!
That night we enjoyed a meal in one of the many tavernas inside the very well preserved medieval town built by The Knights of St. John. In fact we were served by a very welcoming 'Haris', a self proclaimed 'Saddam Hussein' look alike. It was true, but I'm still not sure why he felt so proud about it!
Thursday 20th May
We left Mandraki Harbour, and passed between the two statues, a deer and a fawn which stand on columns at the entrance to the ancient harbour, and have become a symbol of the island. We set sail on a starboard tack, and leaned over fairly. At the next tack, we made a more level passage as we continued tacking our way towards Symi. Some motoring around the middle of the day was required to enable us to get around a Turkish headland, or I fear we would have been sailing till midnight. But the afternoon brought Janika onto a beam reach, and she sailed beautifully at 6 knots, and was enjoyed by us all. (Even Linda, having her afternoon kip, down below!)
Arrival at Symi town, gave us a spectacular view of the town, which the locals call, 'Chorio'. The town climbs up two hills to the left and right of the harbour, reaching the top of one of them, and forming a whole town.
Our entrance was made interesting by a westerly cross wind that flows down through the gap in the mountains, but we made a good effort, bow thruster assisting, and tied up stern to the quay. Quickly meeting Nicos the electric man. "That will be 8 euros please". Oh and another man, 5 euros for the quay berth. (No wonder the Greeks are in trouble. Why can't one man do both?)
Friday 21st May
We enjoyed a lovely motor/sail across the bay, through a narrow gap called the Nimos Passage, and down the west side of Symi.
And anchored inside the lovely Panormitis Bay on the south side.
We took a walk around the bay in the afternoon to the windmill at the entrance to the bay, and saw what looked like old WW 11 concrete gun emplacements by the mill. In the evening we joined Mike and Jane, from 'Restless' who we had met as they walked along Symi town quay in the morning. They had struggled with the wind too, trying to get into Symi town, and decided to park in Pethi Bay, and took a bus into town. We also met another couple Steve and Lyn who had sailed from Cyprus.
Saturday 22 May
We were mainly head to wind, as we motored the 25 miles to Tilos an island to the south west of Symi. Upon arrival at the little port, we were told it was full, and we couldn't go in. So, we turned and anchored in front of the beach, along a long frontage o=f the bay of Tilos. Before long several other boats had joined us too. The only concern, was when we saw an almightly large ferry coming towards us at great speed. He sounded his whistle, just once thankfully, turned and backed onto the quay. No need to move.
A dinghy ride into the harbour, and 15 minute walk, and we had seen the town. A glass of wine at the taverna right opposite Janika before dinner onboard just rounded off a pleasant day.
Sunday 23 May
We tacked our way to Nisyros all the way, except for the last hour, when motoring saved us another two tacks, and got us into the nice harbour of Pali at 4.25pm. We had bacon and egg rolls for lunch, from Karen, who looked after us a treat. (Good food, deserves a mention. Could you cook, whilst standing at an angle, and occasional lurch, when Janika hits a big wave?)
Monday 24 May
A special day. We hired a car from Mike's rent a car, and took his advice about all the places we should see, including about filling the tank up at the only petrol station on the island. At 1.71 euros to the litre, I guess he can charge what he likes!
A drive up the winding road to the village of Emporios, where we went inside a natural sauna. Not very big at all, but fed by the volcanic fissures that have kept it hot for as long as anyone knows. The village itself gave us the first view of the caldera, and the craters inside it. Like so many of the Greek Islands, the youngsters have left to find work in Athens or some other big place, and the village was dilapidated, with many houses beyond repair. But, it was heartening to see one house being restored. Apparently owned by a french couple. And the lady who served us our drinks explained that her husband was doing the work.
Next a drive down into the caldera, which is several kilometres wide, and up to the largest crater. It is said to be the largest of its type in Europe. We walked down into the crater, and across the top, the surface of which was spongy, hot, and in places emitted strong sulphurous gases in modest clouds of smoke. I think Vasilli, the guide, whom Karen and I had met once before, told us the crater was about 270 metres wide and 50 metres deep. He himself was a character. His knowledge about 'Elvis' in particular was a wonder, and I think that given the right promotion, he could have been a point of interest too. We had told Linda and Gordon about Vassili, and Gordon had a question to ask Vassili, about whether Elvis had ever visited the UK. Vassili said "No, that had never happened". Whereapon, Gordon was able to correct him, and explained that Elvis had indeed called into Prestwick for an hour and a half, when the plane touched down to refuel. Elvis was on his way back home, after serving for his Country. Vassili took the new information well, and no doubt added it to his extensive knowledge.
We walked to another crater, much more remote, and as interesting. It had to be done. Sensible shoes were necessary, and we were glad we had them.
The afternoon took us to the village of Nikia where we had omelettes and a salad. Karen was convinced we were 'done' on the price of the omelettes, (she was right) but we decided to let it pass, as a kindness to the cheery man who served us.
A drive then to Mandraki town, but it was afternoon, and everyone was asleep. Or so it seemed, and we went back home to the boat.
In the evening a nice dinner at Aphrodite's with Nic and Christina serving completed a busy and enjoyable day.
Tuesday 25 May
A return to Symi island, but anchoring in Pethi Bay, a different place, where we could see Symi town in the distance. Dinner onboard, as we didn't go ashore, and we bobbed about a large collection of other yachts close by.
Wednesday 26 May
We departed on a calm day, and motored our way back to Rhodes. Ferries passed us by, but didn't hit us with their waves.
We entered Mandraki harbour, past the deer and the fawn, and tied up safely against the quay, stern to. Time for a drink and lunch, and to reflect upon our Greek Cruise, which had gone all to soon, with our shipmates Linda and Gordon.
Before long the taxi had taken them away, and we were alone again. Where had the week gone?

Thursday 13th May

We have been without gas for 5 days, and it was our top priority today – fed up with eating tuna salads. As we walked towards the town we asked a young man in a fast food restaurant if he knew where we could get some gas and the directions he gave us were brilliant. In fact we bought a complete new bottle (as an emergency reserve) and got the two empties refilled. They should keep us going for about 6 weeks.

It was only just 11 o’clock. We hired a small car and headed off to explore the island. Our first stop was Pirgi, a very unique medieval village which has strange geometrical designs on the exterior walls which the locals call xysta. The Byzantine church in the centre has very striking wall paintings also. We enjoyed a coffee in the village square before making our way to Mesta. Mesta is yet another medieval village, the best preserved and the most impressive. The narrow alleyways are beautifully cobbled and around every corner there is something of interest. We had a lovely lunch in the centre of Mesta village square.

On the way back to the boat we took advantage of having the car to stock up at a supermarket we came across. We then drove to the Port authorities to “check out” of Chios as we were leaving early the following morning and it was a good 30-40 minutes walk from the boat to the Port authorities.

We had a very uncomfortable night due to the swell and surges coming into Chios harbour., mostly caused by the large ferries coming and going. By 11pm we couldn’t take it any longer and let go of our ropes from the quay and as we had laid a very long chain we swung at anchor for about another couple of hours, until even this became untenable, and we were surging ever closer to a large motor yacht. At 2.30am we radioed the Port Authority to ask for permission to leave as we had been instructed to do so. They told us to wait until the Nel Line ferry left which would be approx 10 minutes. If we ever go back to Chios, which would be a nice thing to do we definitely would take a ferry – not our own boat!

2.45 am 14th May, we departed Chios and were happy to be free but hadn’t had any sleep. We took 2 hour watches to try to get some rest. The passage to Patmos was pretty uneventful. We were aware that there was some heavy weather coming our way in the next 36 hours so were making our way to Patmos to find a safe anchorage.

Arrived Patmos Island 3.30 pm and began sussing out which anchorage would be best for the coming gale. The third one we looked at seemed to give us the best protection with a mixture of sand and weed for holding. We secured our anchor, and settled down. We hadn’t been there long when we were approached by a fisherman and his wife on their boat, he had come to warn us about the weather and also that he had laid some nets midway in the bay. We thanked him and waved goodbye. I thought for a moment he had come to offer us some fish.

15th May

The wind arrived about 12.30 midday. Strong gust coming through too, which by 4.30 had strengthened to 33 knots and at 5pm one gust of 36 knots ripped both sides of the bimini. We removed it quickly in between gusts. I think the stitching has weakened with the salt water too which didn’t help, although we probably should have taken it down earlier. The wind direction kept changing all over the place and Janika was being taken this way and that. All of our chain was out to give us the best holding. Just before we went to bed about 9.30pm Nigel checked our anchor position, and could see we were out of position. The chart plotter showed we had been dragged one fifth of a mile across the bay!!! Who said if your anchor drags, you can hear it, we didn’t hear a thing? It was a knee trembling experience taking the anchor up in such strong winds and darkness, knowing that there were several rocks around about us. I managed to drop the torch down the anchor locker, which didn’t help. We re-anchored and rode out the gale again. The same thing happened again two hours later, we noticed that we were moving further than our charted position so carried out the same procedure again, which was less alarming the second time. A little while later on the winds died down to a F3, and we put the anchor alarm on and tried to get some sleep.

16th May

Up at first light 5.30 am and on our way to Nisiros. After the previous night’s gale the seas were heavy and very lumpy. There was a big roll with the waves right on our beam, which made the crossing very uncomfortable. Nigel didn’t feel well the whole journey, in fact in his mind he had put the boat up for sale not knowing why he was putting himself through this ordeal (after last night too!)

We arrived in Nisiros at 3.20 pm, very glad to be there. It was tricky to moor up as there was a very strong side wind pushing us across but Nigel managed it perfectly. We decided to have a light meal at Aphrodite’s Taverna as couldn’t be bothered to cook.


17th & 18th May

Lazy start to the day. We gave Janika a good wash down as she was really grubby with the red sand which has been blowing about and we didn’t know when our next opportunity would arise.

We departed Nisiros at 1pm, heading for Panormitis Bay on the Island of Simi approximately 32 miles away. Our passage was quite rough at times due to competing seas from different directions but we did manage to sail almost all the way. We were nearly mowed down by the Blue Star Ferry, he seemed to have his course set head on with ours and was not altering it. Nigel kept saying “just wait till he gets closer, the bearing will change”, but it didn’t. I began to panic as the huge bow wave that he creates was getting ever closer. Nigel called him up three times on the VHF – to no avail. Then, with the ferry’s starboard side showing we altered course to port to give more space between us. We think then we may have heard “port to port” on the VHF, saw him cross so that the port side was showing. At that point Nigel quickly altered to starboard and we cleared by about 200 metres of each other. Not a nice experience and I was standing on the stern screaming obscenities at him as we were tossed about very badly by his wake.

We arrived at Panormitis Bay just before dusk at 8pm, just motoring for the last hour. We chose to anchor on the opposite side of the bay to the other 14 boats as there was sand indicated on the chart plotter and an anchor sign, which meant that you could go there. What a beautiful bay. The Monastery stretching along the whole frontage, with a great bell tower, which was even more spectacular as it was lit up at night.

There was a bit of a roll entering the bay through the night but we managed to sleep reasonably well.
An easy relaxed day today before we head to Rhodes tomorrow to collect my cousin Linda and husband Gordon.

19th May

We set the alarm for an early start today to get to Rhodes in good time. We departed Panormitis at 6 am and had a reasonable journey, motoring all the way to Rhodes, arriving at the outside of the harbour at 11 am. The harbour was full!!!! Where were we going to moor up??? One yacht departed but his space said “private” so we didn’t feel we could go there. Nigel phoned the port authority who gave him a number to contact and this resulted in us being given a berth in the “private” space marked for “Black Pearl”.

7th May – 13th May

The weather was in our favour, very calm seas, ideal for being at anchor because it means you can get ashore easily on your dinghy, which is exactly what we did. Had a pleasant wander around Foca and eventually found a café where which had wifi and that allowed us to use our own computer. When we went back again the next day you would think we had been friends for years with the lovely welcome we received. We went to the fish market and after some discussion discovered what the names of sea bass and sea bream are in Turkish. We chose our fish for dinner – a beautiful 600g leverek (sea bass).
We had decided if the opportunity arose we would invite the Australians onboard that evening so I popped into a supermarket while Nigel decided he would sit on a bench on the sea front guarding the shopping already purchased. I must have been gone about ten minutes when I approached Nigel he was standing up with a strange agitated look about him, he said, “Karen, you’ll never believe this I’ve just been robbed”. I thought wallet, computer. He went on in absolute dismay, “somebody’s stolen the fish”.
I was so relieved it was only the fish, but Nigel just couldn’t understand where it had gone or how somebody or something could have taken it from under his nose. We decided it must have been a dog or cat but will never know what happened to it. 16.50 Turkish lira (about £7) worth of fish we hope it went to a good cause.

Later on about 6pm we noticed a dingy approach us – it was the Australians. They had spent the day visiting Ephesus and came over to say hello. Nicolle and Mark on “Sea Life”. They truly are a remarkable couple who have given up their life of theatre and acting in Sydney to circumnavigate the world. We had a lovely evening with them, and rustled up a supper to share with them. Hopefully we will meet up again soon further down the coast.

Sunday 9th May
On our way to Izmir today. Nigel has been negotiating with the Viking agent to get our liferaft service as it is due it’s three year service and inspection. We don’t know what we are going to encounter in Izmir as we have not been able to raise the marina by phone or e’mail. We had a great sail for about 3 and a half hours broad reaching, doing between 5.5 and 6.4 knots over the ground (strange expression at sea I always think). The closer we got to Izmir the stronger the wind and waves were becoming. We had travelled only 25 miles in 5 hours twenty five minutes, it had been a good day. As we approached the marina breakwater we tried several times to raise anyone on the VHF, at the entrance was a man in uniform so we signalled the thumbs up and he beckoned us in, he was a security guard as we found out but another fellow appeared who invited us to moor alongside in what looked like the only space available in this small 70 berth marina. He came along to tell us that it would cost 50 Turkish Lira for 2 nights but no electricity or water as the marina was awaiting new management.
I prepared a fish for dinner that I had bought in Ayvalik and frozen. Put the oven on to preheat and went to put the fish in. Oops, we had run out of gas. Completely. Even our spare was dead as we hadn’t been able to find any in Ayvalik. That was the second “fishy story”. We had tinned tuna and salad instead.

The next morning we were collected, by a worker from Foka Marine, the agent for Viking liferaft. We met Ali the owner and his daughter Uzum who were extremely hospitable and obliging, allowing us to watch while the liferaft was opened, examining the contents, seeing it inflated, checked, and much later on being put back into it’s little case. ( Before it was put back into its box, Karen just had to ask if she could try out the liferaft. So, in she went, and found out that it would be very cosy with four people inside. Quite a small space. – Nigel) We have so much more knowledge now because of this – not that we ever hope to have to deploy it. And we also know that it has been serviced properly. The complete process took about 4 hours.

That evening we took a taxi into Izmir city, there are no buses from the marine. Izmir is a very cosmopolitan city, being the third largest in Turkey, very trendy and fashionable in the centre of Alsancak. We found a restaurant, which seemed to only serve fish. After a little debate about whether they had a table or not they said they only had one (which was not in a very nice position). I ordered a simple meal while Nigel went with the waiter to choose which fish to have. While he was away another older couple arrived and were shown to a good table which they clearly had not reserved, I sat stewing, while dirty plates were gathering on my right and cutlery being taken from a tray by my left. Enough, I walked to find Nigel and told the waiter that their service was bad to allow local people the better table when we had arrived first. They tried to make compensations but I was on my way out already. This is the third “fishy” story, as we had been done out of yet another fish!!! However, I had saved a huge bill for the bottle of wine we had ordered, and also the fish.

Tuesday 11th May

Last night before we left the marine for izmir town, we went to the marina office to find the man who said we had to pay the 50 lira. He was nowhere to be found and the people we spoke to said they were management and there was no fee to pay. They asked us to describe the man and they had no knowledge of who he was but assured us we were ok to leave. I said I didn’t want a Turkish patrol boat chasing after us and they just laughed. They phoned for a taxi and told us the correct amount to pay, which was so helpful.

We let go our lines at 4.45am and left Izmir. We motored in calm seas for about 4 hours and then were rewarded by a fantastic sail, wind on the beam and flying at 6 knots even as much as 7.4 which for us is positively amazing. We arrived in Cesme at about 5.30 in the afternoon to find that the marina was closed due to all the building works taking place so we had to anchor on the town quay in the harbour.
Nigel went to find the harbour master to check out of Turkey but he was just shutting up and told Nigel to come back in the morning. Bang went our chances of crossing over to Chios in Greece the same day.

Wednesday 12th May
Successful check out of Turkey, only took 3 hours!!! Motored across the 8 mile stretch to Chios in Greece, anchored against the harbour wall and took a walk to the Port Police to officially check in to Greece. Another 2 hours with formalities but they were all very friendly.

Thursday 13th May

We had been without gas for 5 days, and it was our top priority.

The Dardanelles

Bozcaada is a mass of restaurants and small pensions, quite quaint with a delightful small inner harbour. Very quiet at the moment but you can sense that they are just getting revved up for the onslaught of the summer tourists. We enjoyed an evening stroll around picking up some bread and locally produced red wine which we thoroughly enjoyed a couple of days later and wished we had bought a few bottles but then again you never can be sure. We think they are missing a trick by not offering a sample glass before you buy!

We had only just got back on board and when we felt an almighty surge of the boat and nasty pulling and tugging of our ropes, leapt up top to see what had caused it and to avert any damage by the boat surging into the harbour wall. We eased ourselves a good distance away from the wall and took more anchor chain in. This happened several times throughout the night, caused by large vessels passing through the channel, which has the effect of squeezing the water into the harbour causing a rolling swell. So, not a pleasant nights’ sleep, plus at 5 am the boat next to us decided to fill their water tanks and I got splashes of their water through our open window which did not please me too much at that time. Why couldn’t he have done that last night I moaned! They departed shortly after and when we looked out at 6 am the two other boats had also departed. We thought we had better make tracks too, thinking they must know something we didn’t.

We later guessed the reason for the early departure was to give an early start for the long push up the Dardanelles against the strong current coming down which we measured at 4.5 knots.

We reached the entrance to the Dardanelles and had been watching and monitoring the movements of the ships and the many pilot boats waiting to escort. This stretch of water is one of the busiest in the world. We would have to cross the one and a half mile stretch at the appropriate moment between the big ships, some of which are huge container ships. I was taking bearings of three ships travelling up and three coming down. Nigel judged the moment and said, “we’re going now”. It is a breath holding time when you can see a big bulk carrier coming towards you and you hope that you are going to make it across before he swallows you up. Of course we were fine or I wouldn’t be writing this now.

We anchored in Morto Bay, Galipoli. Above us on the hill was the very large impressive Turkish war memorial. This is where the dreadful Galipoli campaign was fought between the British, Australians, Anzacs, French and Turks. A hundred thousands soldiers lost their lives and the memorials are very fitting indeed. We pumped up our dingy and rowed ashore to walk to the Turkish memorial to pay our respects, it is even more magnificent when you are there. Unfortunately we couldn’t make it to the British memorial site, which was over the hill at the opposite end of the bay because we didn’t know how far away it was so after walking a little way in the heat, we made the decision to turn back. We decided to stay in the bay overnight and set off early in the morning.

6th May - Up at the crack of dawn again ready to cross the great shipping lanes of the Dardanelles. The tide was with us and as we waited for our opportunity to cross we were already doing 8 knots and seemed to be standing still. Again I was taking bearings and Nigel was making his assessment of the situation with about ten boats in our sights – off we went revs increased, and within seconds we were doing 9 knots then 10 knots. This speed is such a rare occurence that it has only happened once before and that was coming through the River Elbe in Germany when we reached 10.2 knots. This time we couldn’t believe that we reached 10.5 knots. The effect of the tide was amazing, when you consider that our average speed is approx 5 knots.

It was a long day, we managed to sail for almost two hours till the wind virtually disappeared, the waters became flatter and calmer until they were like glass. So much so, that you could see the reflections of the clouds and birds flying overhead, clearly on the waters surface. We reached a little bay inside the Alibey Islands, close to Ayvalik and put down the anchor for the night at 7pm.

7th May - We decided we would aim for Foca, a little town which we had visited last year and had anchored in the bay. We arrived at 4.30 pm to find some pleasant changes had taken place. The new fisherman’s dock had been completed on the opposites side to the harbour. All the fishing boats, and there are some very large ones, were together. The yachts were lined up along the town harbour wall and the whole vista was beautiful and well thought out for everyone’s benefit. We still chose to anchor, close by to an boat flying the Australian flag, registered in Sydney. Maybe we’ll say g’day later.

1st – 5th May

We were very gently launched into the water on Saturday 1st May as planned at about 2.30 pm. I can’t tell you what a good feeling it is when the engine starts first time. It means that all the jobs you did in winter and since were good and that the impeller went in the right way! A quick check down below to ensure there is no water getting in from anywhere and we motored off to moor Janika in her berth.

Sunday was spent very productively refitting the sails and giving the decks a wash down, checking the generator was working ready for the off on Monday.

Monday, the priority today was ensuring we have enough provisions to last us at least a week. All loaded up and farewells to Deniz, the lovely young lady in the office, we let go our mooring lines at 2pm. Goodbye to Ayvalik, it was a good winter stop but the prices have been raised yet again so it is not a cheap stay.

As we motored down the Ayvalik channel, we remembered our escapades coming up it last year trying out our new diesel reserve tank. It takes a bit of time to get used to all the noises again and to be comfortable that you are not going to sink all of a sudden. We are heading for the island of Bozcaada, then Gallipoli, northwards, but will stop the first night at Sivrice. The weather forecast led us to believe that all would be calm but the further we got out to sea the stronger the winds blew to a Force 5-6 strength. The waves were so strong that they completely soaked the decks front to back and the windscreen which ruined all yesterday’s washing down. Never mind such is life at sea.

We arrived at Sivrice, 25 miles from Ayvalik at about 7 pm, an hour earlier than predicted because we seemed to have about one knot of current running with us, despite the wind being right on the nose, which is probably why the sea state was a bit choppy. We dropped anchor in the bay beside the little hamlet and by now the wind had calmed right down so we had a very comfortable night.

Up at 6.30 and on our way to Bozcaada, a beautiful day, very calm, in fact we only managed to sail for just over half an hour.
We arrived at 2pm and were greeted by two Marina attendants to take our ropes. They are probably the smartest marina staff we have ever come across with proper uniforms and caps to match. Judging by the 50 lira they charged us, it probably funds their uniforms. At these prices we will not be stopping another night as we had thought we might but will instead head for Gallipoli and anchor in the bay there so that we can visit the cemetery. The diesel lorry has just arrived and Nigel has filled up the reserve tank - £1.46 a litre – and we think it’s expensive in UK!

2010 AYVALIK TO LEFKAS (via SYRIA)

26th April
Departed Cheltenham at 3.30 on the National Express to Victoria London, then onto the Gatwick Express. We departed England at 9.30 am a little jaded as we hadn’t managed to even get to bed. Always lots of jobs to be done – we were wishing we could have magic’d another couple of days – never mind.

Our Thomas Cook flight was good but extremely cramped for leg room, I suppose one can’t complain because they do offer you extra leg room for £20. Poor Nigel had to sit with legs splayed and didn’t moan once which is typical of him.

We touched down in Izmir at 3.10pm Turkish time and gained 2 hours over British time. Slightly annoyingly we had just missed the hourly shuttle bus which would have taken us right to the main bus station to catch an onward bus to Ayvalik, so we had to grab a taxi instead rather than wait 45 minutes for the next bus. Our rush was to get to the boat in daylight. Luckily we only had to wait 20 minutes for a Truva bus at 5pm. The Turkish buses are fantastic, very comfortable, smooth and with a hostess service onboard. Our host provided savoury and sweet snacks with tea, coffee, fanta or water all within the fare price. Television on board too, not that we understood it though. We were dropped off about 10 kms from Ayvalik and ushered onto a mini bus service straight into the centre of Ayvalik town. The mini bus service is to enable the main bus to stay on the main route and not deviate through the countryside, thus keeping a very efficient service. We could learn so much from the best things that other countries do.

Yes, we did arrive at the marina in daylight about 7.30pm and the marina was very welcoming. Found us a ladder to enable us to climb up and onto the boat. The only problem was that Nigel couldn’t read the combination on the padlock inside the darkness of our boat cover, he had to go to the nearby garage to buy a small torch, then we found out that we had left one in readiness for that very situation but had forgotten in the last 6 months! Meanwhile I reacquainted myself with the local Migros supermarket.



The above picture will give you some idea of how we will be living for the next few days. Our covers are still in a heap on the floor as it is too windy for us to do anything with them. It has been blowing constantly since we arrived – Force 6/7s. You wouldn’t want to be at sea at the moment.
We have booked the crane to lift us back into the water on Saturday so the antifouling and various other jobs will have to be completed by then. We aim to depart Ayvalik on Monday 3rd May, all being well weatherwise.

Tuesday 8 September
Strong winds during the evening, recorded 30 knots at times, kept us onboard! Anyway, not too bad, as I won the game of scrabble.
In the morning, we awoke to a picture of calmness, and serene surroundings and we had a good night’s sleep too. After a breakfast we decided to go ashore.
Candarli can be summed up in four words; ‘tractors and fishing boats’. It was a really authentic Turkish town with one foot in the countryside, and one in the sea. There were ten tractors in the parking area by harbour café’. And, many more truddling around town, as well as being parked, up and down the side roads. I think I might get one for Cheltenham. Driving a tractor gives one a certain cache I’ve decided.
And don’t think that there isn’t space to carry any passengers. Oh No! We saw them with people sitting on both wheel arches, on the rear pick up lift, on the trailer bar whilst pulling a trailer, and of course inside the trailer itself. Well, isn’t that what a trailer is for! No health and safety here!
And fishing boats! We’ve seen them moving about the quay, like dodgem cars, great big boats with 15 crew onboard pirouetting around changing places to have their turn against the quay, and then rafting out against each other six out. Very impressive skills. A bit like synchronised swimming with boats.
We bought several provisions as we walked around, past the 14th century Genoese castle, not open to visitors but looks very good sat in the middle of town and floodlit at night. Talked to lots of stall holders, but English to Turkish. No English spoken here, but you can get by. We enjoyed the hustle and bustle of being in a natural piece of Turkey.
We looked at the weather at an internet café’ and decided that it looked reasonable for the week ahead. Nothing we couldn’t handle.
How wrong could we be!
After raising anchor early afternoon, we enjoyed a sail along the coast heading westwards, before following the coastline and heading north again but the winds were getting stronger by the minute and sails smaller. As we approached the island of Karaada we had already taken in the sails and were bare poled motoring along in fairly rough seas, with the wind now on the nose. Our destination was about 8-9 miles away, but as we were only making 3-4 knots, it was going to take 2-3 hours. We were getting gusts of 25 – 30+ knots and there was only signs of things getting worse.
Karen did suggest that we turn around and head back to Candarli, which I can safely say now, would have been the best thing to do!
Instead, I suggested that we head for a ‘bolt hole’ I had found in the ‘pilot’ of an anchorage off the north west corner of the very next island called Mardalic Adasi. Only 2.5 miles away. And so that’s what we did. The winds increased, and now we were in a full gale force 8. No mistake. We recorded 34.8 knots and were in the 30’s most of the time.
As we skirted around the southern side of Mardalic we were sheltered from the wind for a brief time, and I warned Karen that as we turned to the north again it would get rough for a short time. About, a mile. By this time, we both had our life jackets on and were harnessed inside the cockpit. And for the first time ever, we put the wash-board in place to prevent water from entering the inside of Janika from the cockpit, if a big wave swamped us.
And, as we turned the corner Karen said, “look at those waves!”
I don’t think we shall ever forget the last mile. The waves were the biggest we have ever seen onboard Janika. I did think about the film ‘Perfect Storm’ but the waves were not quite as big as that. It just seemed that they were. Janika was tossed around, but took the sea well. As we arrived outside the anchorage, we looked into it, and wondered, a) how sheltered was it? and b) could we get in? The waves would be on our beam and it was been bad enough with them coming at us. They were at least twice the height of us and as we went into the troughs it looked like we could be swamped coming out of them.
There was also another thought on my mind, about how the fuel was doing! We were deliberately running the diesel tank down, to try and eradicate some ‘diesel bug’ that we had acquired, and were running with about 30 litres in the tank which holds 325 litres, and I was nervous!
Just off the entrance Karen and I talked about whether to go in, or turn about and go back. Turning Janika around in those seas was not something we fancied either, and we might just be 20 minutes from a safe haven, the anchorage. So, we kept going upwind, and at the right moment as we seemed to find a few less violent waves coming across, I gunned Janika’s engine, and we sped across the waves, which were now broad side on to us, and arrived in the bay at speed.
However, all was not calmness. The winds were screaming across the anchorage through over the top of a reef, which did take some of the roughness out of the sea. But not much. We anchored in 25 knot winds, and the anchor dragged and we were getting ever nearer horrible rocks. We lifted the anchor and tried again in a different location. And half an hour later, that dragged as well, again getting nearer the rocks but this time was quite scary as the windlass was so taut and not raising the anchor. Trying not to panic it started to come up about 6 inches at a time, then stop, eventually whatever it was gradually freed itself (maybe a rock on the bottom) and the anchor came up. It’s not funny trying to raise an anchor in those winds with a violent pitch as well. By this time, we are still talking about going back to Candarli! Anyway, we laid out the anchor a third time trying to get into the shallow area where there would be sand, and put down 50m in over a 6m depth, and it held there. Relief we seemed to have a good hold.
We did go to sleep, but only because we were able to put the anchor alarm on, and we decided that a movement of 0.02 of a mile would give us enough warning of the anchor dragging, or of Janika swinging around the other way. The anchorage was so small that you could be in trouble quickly.
We were again singing the praises of our little Najad and the Delta anchor too.

Wednesday 9 September
In the morning, the conditions outside were improved. The sea state certainly was.
I took the inspection plate off the diesel tank, as I wanted to actually see how much fuel we had. I decided that allowing for an inch of safety left in the tank, we still had two inches left. That was 28 litres, about 9 hours on the engine.
After breakfast we set off, motoring because the wind was in our faces. As we passed the end of the island Karen looked up and noticed about 8-10 grey herons? Perched high up on the highest rocks. They were standing there all proud like, faced into the wind. It looked so usual to see such big birds all up there. I didn’t take a photo, because I was too busy navigating us out of the bay past those nasty craggy rock faces. But, I wish I had now. Not even sure if they were grey herons.
We pulled into Bademli Limani and dropped anchor at 11.20. It was so calm, so well protected, so nice. Even in the grey overcast skies, it was a sanctuary for us.

Thursday 10 September
I awoke at 1.30am. Body clock obviously out of sync. But something was working. Because I saw that we had swung around, and I put the echo sounder on, which showed about 3m. We were lying towards the edge of the land, and I hadn’t done my usual check of the depths as we came into the bay. Too tired, too relieved. And I hadn’t put the anchor alarm on, because we don’t use it unless we feel the need.
I went up into the cockpit, and watched the soundings coming up. 2.9;2.8;2.7. Then a little later, 2.3;2.2;2.1. Oh by the way we draw 1.95m. And there is a built in 0.3m safety. A little later, 1.9 (that’s really 2.1) 1.8. KAREN. Can you put some clothes on and come on deck? Please?
I started the engine to enable us to move away from the shelf we were to close to.
Then 1.7m That’s a clearance under the keel of 6 inches only. CRIKEY!!!!!! Even at 2am, it does wake you up quickly.
By now Karen was on the foredeck and drawing in the anchor chain. We weighed anchor at 2.20am, and I suggested that we just go. Karen wasn’t too happy and would have preferred to reanchor but I persuaded her.
Soon out of the bay and clear of the islands in the dark of night. These chart plotters are good! We raised sail and for about 30 minutes sailed. But the wind died and we were forced to motor onwards towards Ayvalik. It was a crisp cold night and Karen snuggled up down below and left me to it!! (Well it was my idea she told me!!)

At 6.20am we dropped anchor just south of the first island amongst the group of 22 islands around the town of Ayvalik, and went back to bed, all nice and calm.
Mid morning we motored through between the islands all on our own, and through the narrow channel well marked which takes you into the area known as ‘The Lake’ . It’s just like a lake, with the main two towns of Ayvalik and Alibey island within The Lake, and it all looked very pretty and nicely set out.
(I forgot to mention that I changed over to a reserve diesel tank that I had set up months ago, after we left Naxos, just in case we suffered from diesel bug again. It took few minutes to change over, but I believed we had 24 litres of reserve fuel, and decided that I had pushed my luck enough on the main tank already.) Also we had been wanting to test it out anyway.
Well. I thought I sensed a couple of dropped ticks from the engine as we negotiated the channel, and discussed with Karen the possible need to use the anchor at short notice, in case. Not long after we entered The Lake, the engine died. Fortunately, we were in the middle of a lovely lake, and there was plenty of room. After looking at everything. I found that the reserve diesel tank was looking like a shrunken mass, with all the air sucked out of it. I had forgotten to open the air vent!!!! Well, I’m not an engineer. Mind you, I feel I’m catching up fast. Opening the vent, and restarting the engine worked no problem, and we were on our way again. Triumphant. In fact Karen was heaping praise on me, and I cautioned her, not to, because, tempting fate and all that. How true that was soon to be.
We decided, well, Karen fancied another night in a quiet anchorage for a change , before we took Janika into the marina that would be her home over the winter.
Karen, helming took us into a bay that promised an ideal place in the pilot, but there was a road close by and some holiday homes, so we chose another bay with just one yacht anchored, called Miss Sophie’ and a Finish flag. These Fin’s get everywhere!
Just as we turned the corner, the engine died again. We looked at each other. Well, actually I looked. At this stage, Karen was ‘verbalising’. She was giving out all the various options that we had. Actually there was only one option – to get the sail out. We managed to tack on just the Genoa, back and forth into the bay, and anchored in 6 metres. We had run out of fuel in the reserve tank!!!!! What happened to the 24 litres? We shall never know. Maybe it was never there.
We subsequently heard from the lady ‘Harriet” on ‘Miss Sophie’, that they had watched us sail in and anchor, and were very impressed with our manoeuvering skills. Then Karen explained that we had no engine. Mind you, I still think it must have looked fairly impressive. Karen met Harriet in the laundry and exchanged pleasantries as we have seen each other from afar over the recent weeks.
That night we didn’t have a calm night. The meltemi gave its’ best and we swung out all over. Let out more chain before going to bed. Karen beat me at scrabble that night. So, now we are equal.

Friday 11 September
We changed back to our main fuel tank. Crossed our fingers and hoped we had enough for the 2.5 miles to the marina.
It was a dull overcast sky, with a little drizzle. At each part of the journey I was looking out where we would anchor in a rush. But no need to worry. Janika took us gracefully into the marina. The marina men came out in their rib and led us into berth B7, where we tied up at 9.55am. With, some relief.

We have had a wonderful trip this year, and not too many concerns. Although much more wind than previously, and all our main concerns seem to have come in the last three days!

NC & KC

Thursday 3 September
We left our berth early and motored out north into a 21/22 knot headwind. There was not too much sea and Janika took the waves easily, many of which came over the bow and up the side decks. So much for the nice washdown and polish a few days earlier!

Dave from ‘Night Owl’ had said how nice Oinoussa Island was, and as we were so close and by mid morning getting enough of bashing into the wind, we decided to give it a look. We anchored inside the harbour and put down 25m of chain in 4.5m depth, and Janika held well.
It was a nice fresh day, and the temperature was very pleasant, being just a little off the summer time heat.
The waterfront looked smart, and we could see several large elegant houses in the village, many with pitched roofs, which made a more attractive feature to usual.
Oinoussa, a small, if insignificant island, has produced the richest ship-owning families in Greece, including the richest of them all. According to our pilot book, Not Onassis, but a man called Costa Lemos. A very private man. Greek ship owners control some 70 million tons of shipping, the same tonnage as all the other EU countries put together!
When we went ashore though, we found that the village was in many ways, like lots of other Greek villages on the islands. There were many houses that were dilapidated, and you could see that no-one had lived in them for ages, and several others that were being restored beautifully. We walked all around and couldn’t find any shops. Just a couple of café’s.
Work, or the lack of it must be the driving force, and young people moving out to the mainland to find better employment. However, we do enjoy visiting the islands, always, and the view from our anchor position was lovely.

Friday 4 September
We weighed anchor early, and were away before 7o’clock. By going around the west side of the island we were able to set a course suitable to put Janika on a close reach for the Turkish mainland, and with a full genoa and 2/3rds mainsail we did nearly 4 knots in a 7 knot wind, lovely. The calm sea helped.
The main interest along the way, was passing between several container ships, as they made their way to and from the port of Izmir which was just along the top of the gulf. Just before tea we sailed all the way into the port of Foca, (prounounce the ‘C’ as ‘CH’, so Foca rhymes with gotcha). The wind was just right, and we turned the corner past the castle, and sailed right into the anchorage, called Buyukdeniz Limani. What an amazing days sail, arriving at 4pm.

Saturday 5 September
A walk around the waterfront and castle wall seeing the excavation works was interesting. There are so many historic sites in Turkey, that many are only now being researched and new things are being discovered.
This place was clearly a main fishing port, as dozens of fishing boats, large and small lined the quay. Some were six deep, rafted out.
The town was active, and we found the fish market. The fish were fresh too, as one jumped out of a box as we walked past. We also saw a swordfish lying on the floor of the market, and also being held up proudly as photographs were taken. It was about 5 feet long. Actually were not sure if it might have been a marlin. Must google it. Karen bought some shrimps for dinner, and some fresh veg. close by, and we walked about looking for a chandlery without luck, but enjoyed our visit.

We sailed at 1pm and had a fantastic sail, tacking along the coast through some small islands before dropping anchor in a bay just east of the island of Hayiriz Ada. When we arrived all was calm and quiet. Karen even went for a swim in the crystal clear water. So clear that you could see the anchor 9 metres deep. By evening a swell brewed up quickly, and we spent the night rocking vigorously about, which kept us awake on and off all night. I decided that it must have come over from the Aegean Sea.

Sunday 6 September
By morning the swell had diminished. However, we were away, as soon as the early morning mist had burnt off, about 10am. You could tell that the weather was changing, as we had not seen so much mist before. A bit of sea fog.
We wanted to find a safe anchorage this evening, as the forecast was warning of another meltemi blow, and gale force winds. We picked out Candarli on the Aeolian Coast, which was only about 40 miles from Ayvalik our destination for this year. Rod Heikell had said black mud, excellent holding’ in the pilot book, so that sounded just what we were looking for.
What a day’s sail we enjoyed. Another good sail! We experienced flat calm and doing half a knot, but kept our patience and before long we were belting along at 6 and a half knots close reached, but at about 60 degrees, so not too much of a beat, and a nice gentle movement. We passed a section of the coast where in the distance we could see, where the old ships were taken, to be broken up. Loads of them, all in a sad line. There was no shortage of work there.
The last hour was done at about 1 knot, as the wind had died down and we were both finishing off reading our latest books. Once Karen had finished, we pulled in the sails, and motored the last 5 minutes into the bay of Candarli. We anchored and enjoyed a korma curry washed down with chilled white wine. Lovely.
Later on, Karen said, “do you think we are moving?” We looked and I checked the chart plotter, and sure enough, we had been moving slowly but surely towards the quay, where a lot of Turkish people sat at tables, and seemed to be waiting for the sun to set, so they could eat! (Ramadam). I thought they were getting bigger! It was 8.30pm and thankfully we had noticed it now while we still had a little light left.
So much for Rod’s black mud! We raised anchor and set off further along the beach to find another spot. And tried again. The anchor seemed to us, to have a better hold. Nevertheless, I put on our anchor alarm this night, which warns us if Janika moves outside a predetermined radial. We don’t usually bother, as it uses power, but tonight it gave us some comfort, and as well, the wind was now blowing up to 27 knots, and that’s a yachtman’s gale.

Monday 7 September
I slept through until 4.30am, but the first mate had been up a couple of times and checked all was fine. The wind seemed to have come ahead of the forecast, but as I write this at 10.30am it’s still blowing up to 27 knots, and as low as 10 knots, so I’m glad we came here. We think that perhaps we dragged anchor last evening because we were in soft mud, and the anchor pulled through. Now, we appear to be fine, but not confident to leave Janika on her own and go ashore. The position where we first anchored is now taken by several very large pucker fishing vessels which may have come in for shelter as well. It would have been very interesting to have been surrounded by them.

Saturday 29 August
Cesme ( C is prounounced CH; and S as SH), is quiet. It seems that the holidays are coming to an end, and perhaps more importantly for the Turkish holiday-makers, that Ramadan has begun, and so unable to eat during daylight hours they stay at home.
So, we had a quiet lunch on the seafront. Then we boarded a dolmus and headed for Alacati where we walked through an endless market, interesting, but nothing we needed. Then, we appeared out under the canvas ceiling of the market into the town. An old, Ottoman town, with many preserved buildings. Bay windows hung out over the streets, and the stone-faced buildings with cobble stoned lanes wandered all around us. Wonderful. Then we were glad we had come. A cay tea and an apple tea revived us and we set off exploring. Karen even managed to buy a dress, which she will put up for next year on the EMYR. (East Med. Yacht Rally)
There were a lot of really well presented restaurants and café’s, and if we were staying the night one would be assured of a good meal. However, as I’m just about over my recent tummy troubles after Kusadasi, I am a bit circumspect about any establishment for a while. Apart from the delicious meals, onboard Janika.
The dolmus brought us back to Cesme, and one realises that a taxi is only for those places that the dolmus doesn’t go, off the regular routes. We paid our 5 lira and departed.
That took me into a clothes shop, where I found a pair of trousers. Yes, those with legs, which I will need in Istanbul, if not before. The legs were too long, like 12 inches too long. But, no worries. “4 lira, and you can collect them tonight Sir.”
And, there’s another confirmation, that I’m not back home yet.
As we walked back through the marina, walked past an impressive newly refurbished boat in an old fashioned style. (I subsequently found out that it was a brand new boat!) “Come onboard for a drink” Mehmet said. Popular name Mehmet. He showed us around his boat, and we when his friend Arthur joined us, we found out that Mehmet was waiting for crew to arrive, before he took “Hooligan” (No you wouldn’t would you?) across on it’s delivery trip to Singapore. We felt like saying, “Don’t wait for the crew, we’ll come!” We had tea together, and enjoyed finding out about each other’s plans. The Turkish are so friendly.
We got back onboard and invited Dave and Sue onboard for drinks, and enjoyed chatting away to nice English people. There are so many interesting folk around, but you notice the difference with the Brits. They are relaxed, and talk is simple and easy. And there is always something to learn.

Sunday 30 August
We awoke to our friend, is he an Imam or a Mullah? But at 5 o’clock like an alarm clock, he starts with no loss of volume. And, calls to Allah for the first time of the day. Even with the pillow wrapped around both of my ears, hands pushing hard against them, his bellowing seeps through, thankfully at a slightly lower volume, and for two minutes I am transfixed in this position.
Karen reckons that I slept through him once. But I don’t believe her.
Today was probably the most important day for Turkey. The anniversary of the date that Ataturk led the Country to victory against the Greeks and reclaimed the lands that Greece had taken at the end of the First World War. Those down the western coast. So, Greece has the islands, but Turkey retains the mainland.
We listened to patriotic music and singing and cheering. I don’t think waving our Greek flag in the town square would have gone down well. Although I did feel for all those families who had been ‘moved’ as a result of Ataturk’s actions. Though, perhaps he was right then, to separate the various factions from each other, forcibly, and avoid much of the strife that affects other parts of the world, when different ethnic people struggle to live side by side. Often, as a result of what, we the Brits have done in the past.
When we went down into the square, we saw all the commemorative wreaths and plaques, showing the Turkish pride in there history.
There is no doubt of there pride. A massive Turkish flag fly’s over the town from the top of the hill, and this is often seen together with pictures of Ataturk, who was in power over 80 years ago. What odds would the bookies give to see Gordon Brown’s picture everywhere 80 seconds after he looses power!

We invited an Australian couple in a 48’ Van de Stadt yacht just across from us, and enjoyed some good banter. Roy and Liz had sailed from Oz and expected to return in two years time.

Wednesday 2 September
We are still here! Waiting for a weather window, when the meltemi passes by again.
We have been out and about. A couple of days ago we went for a shop to load up with provisions from a big supermarket, thinking we would be off soon. Wrong!
On our way back, we called into some chandlers to buy a weak link for the outboard, but unsuccessfully. Then as we walked down the street, I heard this mild shriek next to me. It was Karen, who had just spotted a tortoise about to cross from the footpath onto the road. She ran up and picked it up gently. (So what do we do now?)
Back to the last chandlery, and Karen asked if they had any children. No. But, the man looked at our new friend, and pulled down a new pair of pliers from the rack above his head. And carefully reaches, takes the tortoise from Karen and pulls out a tick. (This is getting better and better!) Off we go, and Karen is now looking for a sympathetic person, preferably with children and a nice back garden with grass and a big desire to look after a tortoise.
Amazingly, at the shop, she found a lady who would take her in. And we decided that we had probably extended the tortoise life a bit longer.
Never, a dull moment.

We have now visited the castle in Cesme, and discovered that just outside the harbour, the Russians thrashed the Turkish fleet in 1770, which allowed them to have unimpeded access to the Mediterranean. The castle was in good condition. It had clearly been renovated, and although there was some new works, we liked it, because it felt like a proper castle and showed how it must have been complete. And, no EU grant money sign here! The Turks had paid for it themselves.

Another trip to Alacati by dolmus, and this time we knew where we were going, which helped.

But, now we want to leave, and hope for better conditions tomorrow.

NC

Saturday 22 August
We awoke early as we wanted to go and see Ephesus. There was only one small cruise ship berthed, and therefore a good chance that a visit today would not be overflowing with thousands of cruise ship passengers. We had been told that sometimes there are seven cruise ships berthed in Kusadasi and another three in Izmir, so that ten lots of cruise ship passengers could descend on this ancient Roman site together. When you consider that some of these ships carry two thousand passengers, you can do the maths, and imagine the result!
We skipped breakfast and made our way to the dolmus station, as this was going to be the cheapest method of getting there. Price is not the only consideration, because Karen and I believe that by travelling with the locals you get a much better experience, are involved and more immersed in the culture where you are visiting.
It was about a half an hour walk to the dolmus. Soon we were off, and in a type of minibus that carried about 18 people. Driving the dolmus as well as taking money and giving change at the same time, appeared to be no hindrance to the driver, as his speed never faltered.
We arrived in Selcuk after half an hour. We then tried to work out what was what. Several taxi drivers offered us a 2 - 3 hour tour for 35 Turkish Lira each, (about 15 pounds), and we discovered that to see all the sights would involve more in time than we realised and that walking was not an option on distance alone, let alone the heat.
We found the tourist information centre, and asked some questions. The lady gave us a map, (always useful) and marked some places where she said we could find tours.
The first one was a car rental shop! And surprise surprise cost 70 Turkish Lira for a days hire. The same as two people in a taxi.
Her second suggestion was Peron Travel shop, and yes they did arrange tours, and believe it or not a tour had just commenced, which they could take us by car to catch it up. The tour would last until 5pm, (It was now 10am) and include all the sights as well as lunch and all the entry fees to the places we would visit. Being part of a small group of 8 people with a professional guide, just suited us and so we were quickly taken to the Temple of Artemis, where the group were waiting for us. Six Italians and a young English couple on their honeymoon.
Our guide said to call him ‘Ozzy’ and he usually escorted cruise ship passengers around Ephesus, but as today there was no work for him, we were fortunate to have his company for the day.
I’m going to keep this short, now, because I know that I could on for ages!
First we visited the ‘house of the Virgin Mary’., high up in the mountains some 5 miles away from Ephesus City. Where Mary lived after Jesus died, and was brought to this place by Saint John, away from risk of persecution. It was a very calm place with a small stone house, surrounded trees and greenery all around, very serene. We went inside the house, down to drink water from the holy spring. We watched around 8 priests in their religious finery say blessings inside the house before commencing a service for a gathering of people nearby the house. The singing from the group was quite beautiful in that setting.
Then we were dropped off on the top side of Ephesus City, so that we could walk down through the streets, a two hour tour, and then get back on the bus at the bottom. ‘Ozzy’ took us along all the fascinating places with stories and anecdotes that kept us involved and interested. At one point we all sat in the mens latrines, and tried to imagine how the men (we are talking of the well off ones here) would arrive with their slaves. The slave would sit on the toilet area, to warm up the ‘seat’, and then once it was warmed the master would sit down. In total 46 seats could have been occupied at once, all without screens, just as if you were sitting next to each other at school dining room!
Further along we saw a fabulous fountain built by one Roman emperor, that was designed so that a sluice gate allowed water to be released from the fountain to wash the streets clean. And when the king and queen walked down the street,(not sure where these kings and queens came from) they would pour red wine into the fountain, release the red coloured water from the sluice, and they would walk over a red stream of water over the marble street. This is where the “red carpet” treatment originated. So, how about that? I could go. But I won’t! A thoroughly fantastic experience beyond our expectations.
The trip continued with a very nice lunch followed by a trip to a weaving school for young women, funded by the state to preserve and maintain this Turkish art form. A young lady showed us how they extract the silk from the pods – fascinating. We were also able to observe ladies making various types of carpets, some of which can take at least a year to complete – some more. Finally a visit to the Ephesus museum. Our guide even dropped us back at the marina gates.

When we got back to Janika we were tired, but decided to have a look around the marina, because it was so quiet, very unlike most marinas.

Then whilst wondering why a yacht with a blue ensign was flying a RAF pennant, we were invited onboard ‘Lazy Jacques’ and met a charming couple, John and Clare together with their Swiss friends, Rolfe and Esther. Rather than have a quiet early night, we ended up having too much wine, but lots of good chat and sharing of stories.

Next day, Sunday Karen was up early, and she watched ‘Equinox’(huge Celebrity cruise ship) berth in Kusadasi at 6.10 am. That and a cup of tea, was enough to get me up too, and start to wash down Janika, as she was covered in salt, and needed a clean.
By 10am we had met Alistair and Lorraine, and were enjoying a coffee in the centre of town. It became clear that Alistair hoped to have sail on Janika, and on realising it wouldn’t be just G & T’s on deck, in the marina, I suggested we repair to the yacht right away, and make sail. Which is what we did. Alistair also said that it would keep Lorraine was away from all the jewellery shops.
Lorraine actually helmed most of the way out, and we dropped anchor up the coast off a beach beside a hotel.
As Karen prepared lunch, Alistair and Lorraine took a swim.
Several hours later we tacked our way back, taking a long way out into the Kusadasi Bay, before returning back to the marina, Alistair at the helm which, I think he quite enjoyed.
We said our goodbyes, after a great day together, and as the sun dropped in the sky and ‘Equinox’ eased out of the harbour, Karen and I stood on the front of Janika and waved Alistair and Lorraine farewell.
Again, in the evening we looked forward to a quiet night. I said we should have a nice meal, as our belated anniversary celebration, and we walked into a restaurant in the marina which looked nice, and just as we were finding a table. You guessed it. There was the four of them. John ,Clare, Rolfe and Esther. They had about finished, but we bought a bottle of wine, for the table and we commenced another entertaining evening together. During which we had more wine, and Karen and I managed to have dinner!

Monday 24 August
We sailed away and although not fast were pleased to be able to sail rather than motor. It was a beautiful morning and we watched as yet another cruise ship lined up to join the four already in port. In the afternoon, the wind picked up and the direction changed, so that with about 5 miles to go, we had to motor in to avoid a long series of tack in increasing winds. At 6pm we were at anchor in a deserted bay called Doganbey. We didn’t have a great hold, but it was calm, sheltered and we were tired out. I had taken a full frontal gush of water which came across the deck whilst steering which combined with the cold winds, had chilled me right through. I spent a lot of the night shivering with a high temperature, with Karen administering paracetamol and changing pillowcases and sheets throughout the night! And, we now also think that I may have caught a bug from our dinner the previous evening.

Tuesday 25 August (Nikki’s Birthday)
So, by the time we arrived in Sigacik I was quite poorly.
We didn’t get ashore this day as we couldn’t get into the marina. It had been sectioned off for works taking place, and we found a mooring buoy. Although only 150 yards off the waterfront the weather and sea were too bad for us to make a dinghy attempt.

Wednesday 26 August
Now, I am feeling a bit better, but not right. (I’ll spare you the details) I’m sitting up in bed catching up on the Blog, ready for the next time we get near an internet.
Again, it is blowing out there even more than yesterday. Even if I felt well, I don’t think we would either go ashore or leave and take Janika to the next place.
Karen has just returned from the foredeck checking the lines, and confirmed that ‘It’s really blowing out there”.
The winds did abate for a few hours in the evening and we rowed ashore to have a look. Although it was in darkness as we strolled around, we could see enough. Outside the town walls were several tavernas which seemed to be busy with locals. We walked inside the wall to see what the oldest part of the town was like, and found it was a poor place. Buildings were in a poor state, many in delapidation and some falling down. Lots of cats roamed the streets and had a free run in and out of houses, where doors were left open, presumably because of the heat. We received a friendly greeting from some older people who sat outside their frontages, which was nice. But, we felt that the place was in desperate need of improvement. Was this the ‘real’ Turkey we wondered?

Thursday 27 August
We got up early. The meltemi had not yet woken up, and at 8am we weighed anchor and left.It wasn’t long before we were in a 25 knot wind, but this time it was behind the beam, and we sailed strongly on up to 6 knots and found a delightful bay called Kirkdilim Limani. Beautiful turquoise water with a golden beach and no-one else!
After a time several fishing boats came in to the bay and tied up to a mooring buoy waiting to start the evening fishing.
Karen went in for a swim, but my stomach was still not ready for that. The temperature was lower, as we are told that the Black Sea waters flowing down bring much cooler water.

Friday 28 August
Night time air temperatures have dropped a lot as well, and we have been sleeping under a duvet. Makes for a good nights sleep though.
We awoke early and decided to make for Cesme about 27 miles further on. Mostly motoring, and some sailing. As soon as we approached the channel between Khios (Greece) and Turkey we pulled in the sails and motored up through heavy seas and strong winds pushing southward. We saw our first dolphin in Turkish waters, and after checking us out, it was soon gone.
Early afternoon we came into Cesme Marina and tied up. Not many boats here, and the marina ýs only about 5% full.
NC & KC

Wednesday 12 August
We cleared Pithagorion Marina before 10am after settling our bill of 26 Euros a night which was very good value by marina standards.
Our goal was to ‘enter Turkey’ but our choice of where to do that had changed from Cesme to Kusadasi. And this morning we changed our mind again, to Turgutreis!
The reason for all this was that there has been a lot said about the best way to enter Turkey. Both on the net, as well as a day seminar given by the Cruising Association in London about all things in the Med; and especially from other yachties who have given us the ‘benefit’ of their experiences!
On the night before we left Pithagorian, a man called Tony, told us about unscrupulous agents in Kusadasi who charged some people 180 euros to do the paperwork and obtain all the official stamps and visas for them. He went on and on about not letting go of your passport, which made sense. And he also ranted on so much about other experiences he had had, that we began to question some of the things he told us. Anyway, suffice to say, that by then we were nicely, ‘on edge’ about the whole thing. Even Geoff parked next door, had paid 50 euros to clear out of Turkey, and that didn’t sound right to us either.
So, about half an hour before we set off I suggested we sailed south, (that’s the wrong direction, as we were going north!) about 40 miles and enter in Turgutreis where a couple, Mike and Jane who we met in Kalminos a few weeks before, had emailed us with a good report of their entry.
Karen said that we might then be able to rendezvous with Alistair and Lorraine who would be calling into Kusadsai on 23rd on a cruise ship. So, that did it.

We had the northerly Meltemi wind, which was now in our favour, and we didn’t think too much about the fact we would have to sail back up against it later. What mattered, was to get safely into Turkey without being ripped off.

We had a great sail. Although as the afternoon went on, the meltemi increased up to Force 6 and combined with a deep rolling swell, made an uncomfortable but fast passage. Our best speed was just short of seven knots.
Our arrival in Turgutreis Marina was good, and they served us well, with two marinellos, (marina berthing assistants). At 6pm we were tied up to a finger pontoon! Haven’t had one of those for ages. Very posh! And at 42 euros a night, it ought to be! Turkish marinas are not cheap. In fact we had already been told that prices in Turkey we going up fast, for yachties.

Checking in was really straight forward. Relief! We did have to visit several offices, but they were all close to each other, (literally the offices were side by side along the same corridor), we got lots of stamps, and no hassle.
We attended the marina office for a transit log 45 euros, which they entered onto a computer for 20 euros. The harbour master then stamped our transit log. We saw the Visa lady -15 euros each for a sticky label which we took to another man in the passport office who stuck it into our passport and stamped it with the official stamp.. Then the Doctors Office for the Health check to make sure we hadn’t got swine flu. Customs to get another stamp. Back to the Harbour Master to receive another stamp. ALL DONE in one and a half hours. Thank you Mike and Jane for the good advice. Absolutely according to your experiences.

Turgutreis town is a relatively new town, and so it didn’t have all those old streets which seem to be imbued with the past. It’s very much recent. In an area around the Mosque I believe that we saw more eating places, in a given area than we have ever seen before. And that’s saying something.
So it wasn’t difficult to find a place for our first Turkish lunch.
Shopping in Migros supermarket was a revelation in how to serve the customer. Particularly fresh fruit, salads and vegetables were the best displays bar none, and the freshness could be smelt. Karen is still going on about the rocket1 I am sure she will never be satisfied with Tesco or Waitrose ever again.!
We asked for some Sea Bass, and it was prepared for us in a manner, just as well as it was displayed. There was even Norwegian salmon, just flown in by plane. Interestingly, the prices were lower than Greece, and already we could see our budget going further, food wise.

While there we had some work done to our bimini rails which has been needed since we left Sweden. The rails were scratched badly, and it was all to do with the way in which the rails were fitted onto the boat. I guess the Sweds don’t know much about bimini’s. So, the job was completed well with just one return visit to the workshop after they brought it out the first time! I was surprised at how the rails could be sanded down, polished to look perfect.

Friday 14 August
We departed in the afternoon, as soon as our newly polished bimini bars were fitted. And headed for a Gulf called Gullik Korfezi.

We have now spent 6 nights in the Gulf visiting a different part each day, so you could say that we know it quite well. In fact I’m thinking of writing a book about it. But I’m going to spare you all the individual little coves and bays, and just highlight those parts that we liked best, or that were memorable.

Right up at the far end of the Gulf we found a place called Asin Limini.
To get into the small fishing harbour you have to enter through a small gap between a Byzantine tower and an ancient sunken breakwater. The pilot book gives you a heading to use leading to a minaret in the village.
We achieved that successfully, and anchored with a line ashore to a rock. That part took longer, but we did it.
On the first evening we rowed ashore to have a quick look around. As we passed a fishing boat on the hard, a man shouted across and invited us aboard for some raki. Discretion being the better part of valour, we politely refused with big smiles, and went on. In the dusk of the evening we found an old rather in need of something little village. And it smelt like Grandad’s old farm, with farm animals and all things farm like through the street. By the way, compared to this, my Grandad’s farm was a show piece, but it’s the smell I’m trying to import to you.
Then we looked for an olive grove where an old ancient village once existed called Iasos. Found it and were amazed at the Roman architecture all around. Ruins of course, but you could clearly see the outline of the settlement. We decided to return the next day.

Iasos was obviously an impressive Byzantine and subsequently Roman town. Much better than the present village. Although, of course it has to be appreciated that now there are no slaves! And that’s the big difference. Because life here as a citizen must have been very good. Having been to a few ancient sites, this one resembled many of the others, but the big difference for us was that we were there looking at it all, on our own. We were walking through history without masses of people, and it was really lovely. There were five men working in one part. They were clearing an area of overgrown vegetation, where 4000 year old Byzantine tombs were being systematically excavated and taken to a museum not far away. People may have not lived very long in these times, but their tombs made of stone slate were there for us to see, 4000 years later! We marvelled at all this, and wondered how long the present village would last!

We walked through the village to buy the usual bread and milk. The bread came from the bakery itself, and Karen reached down through a window to give the man half a Turkish Lira, (about 43pence) and we could see all inside the bakery and the bread was hot from just having been taken out of the oven.

On our way back to Janika we passed the fishing boats all lined up against the quay. One man who had asked us for a Raki the night before appeared and beckoned us over for a Turkish glass of tea? This seemed infinitely more appropriate than the raki and we thought it would be very rude to refuse a second invitation. Anyway there was a man already despatched to take our dinghy lines at the quay And so we rowed over and were helped onboard a real live Turkish fishing boat. It was the biggest in the harbour, and it turned out that our man, was just visiting his friend Mehmet who owned the boat with his brother, and ‘JD’ as our man was called was home on leave from the merchant navy. So, that’s why he spoke such good English. Not many people we have met so far speak English, but then we have been where no-one else goes! We tend to find those the best places.

We were entertained by Mehmet; another Mehmet who owned another boat; JD and a sailor who made us Turkish tea, and coffee later (Turkish tea is given in glasses without milk but with as mush sugar as you like). They even offered us beer! I think JD’s Muslim values had altered somewhat due to his globe-trotting around the world.
The conversation was good, and we found out plenty. The boats were not sailing until September because there is a law that forbids fishing on large boats between May and August, to allow the fish to mature to proper size. Now they were doing maintenance.
We were given a tour of the boat. Including the crews sleeping quarters for nine. You don’t want to know what they were like. But as someone who loves reading about the days of sail with Nelson, I immediately thought of how they lived then. Little has changed in some ways. The bridge, where Mehmet allowed me to sit in the skipper’s chair. It reminded me of the film, Perfect Storm. Just, the same. On a good trip the boat can bring back 10-15 tons of fish with a crew of eleven. Oh, the other two sleep in the bridge at the back, and Mehmet and his brother take it in turns to skipper and sleep, unless they are fishing, when they all work like mad.
I think we enjoyed that morning on their boat more than anything we’ve done for some time, and felt privileged to be asked onboard.

We said our goodbyes and not long after we weighed anchor and motored out past the Byzantine tower and onto new pastures. Well, bays anyway.
We found a quiet bay with no-one else there, in a place called Gor Limani. There was an awful looking new holiday housing site high up on the hill, but if you ignored that, it was fine.
We decided that we might find some shade and breeze if we rowed ashore and sat under a tree. In the event, it was difficult to find a good spot, so we got back in the dinghy, and found a spot under some trees overhanging the waterfront. Careful to tie the dinghy in place, so as not to risk puncturing the sides of the dinghy, we settled down in the shade. I had forgotten my glasses, so we just sat there, each of us across the dinghy, but facing each other. And we talked and talked, and as my watch strap had broken I didn’t have it on. Karen, also no watch, and the time passed by. We were there for two and a half hours we found out when we returned to the boat. But we were treated to a wonderful sight. Three times a pair of kingfishers swooped across us along the waterfront. Once, one was so close, I’m sure that I felt the wind whoosh past my ear, as he tried to catch his mate who came first. And another came again on his own later. It happens so little, that we still remember where we were when we have seen kingfishers before. A real treat. And what a day overall!

By Wednesday 19 August we were anchored at the edge of the Gulf in Cukurcuk. Just a little creak, with little shelter from low lying land, but at least the sea was moderated by the creeks position shielding us from northerly winds.
After sailing in the gulf with low seas, we knew that from now on we had to watch out for stronger stuff.
Trying to catch the early morning lull, before the meltemi realised that we were at sea, we departed Cukurcuk at 6.30am, but we hadn’t had a good night sleep because of, rolling swell that did find its way round, mosquitos, noise from Altinkum several miles away, (I dread to think what it must have sounded like close to) and a smell that we have no idea where it came from, but was occasional and not pleasant.

Thursday 20 August
We were keen to leave this anchorage and had been awake on and off for most of the night, so literally just before sunrise we raised the anchor and set off to cover the next 22 miles. The meltemi gave its best shot today and wind speed reached a 33 knots at one point as we approached the anchorage in Port St. Paul’s, an anchorage suggested by our pilot book. Our anchor was well dug into sand, fortunately, because the wind just blew off the mountain and through this anchorage all night, in fact it was at its strongest throughout the night which is very unusual – another bad night;s sleep!

We were so tired, that we took it in turns to take a nap, as the wind was reaching force 4 5 and then 6 , and we didn’t want to drag unknowingly. Sounds reasonable!
Today was our 4th wedding anniversary, and we spent it as we had just spent most of the last week, together. Karen cooked her special aubergine saganaki, which I love, even though we had to pull off the green mouldy bits of the bread we had left. (Karen says it was a week old!) The fish went crazy after the bits we threw overboard. If penicillin does for fish what it does for us, they will live to a ripe old age, if Mehmet doesn’t get them first.
Note: Port St. Paul’s is so called because it is said that Saint Paul, on one of his voyages up the Anatolian coast, is supposed to have put in here for the night, to rest his oarsmen from the back breaking slog against the meltemi wind.

Friday 21 August
We got up early again this morning, and I prepared lifejackets and harness ready as according to the weather forecast we would need them, and we were still experiencing strong winds.
Actually, the wind never reached the levels we had in the anchorage, and we passed through the strait between Samos (Greece) and Turkey, less than a mile across, and then sailed up to Kusadasi.
And we entered the harbour and as I backed Janika into the gap between two boats, Karen deserted her post on the foredeck to take an extra fender where Janika was edging against one of the boats. Good practice, but we never expected the marina man to jump up from his rib and pull in on the lazy line that Karen had already tied onto the cleat. What service these Turks give. It would never happen in England!

We are now here and can enjoy a couple of days. Alistair, Karen’s brother is arriving in Kusadasi with Lorraine on Sunday on a cruise ship, and we hope to spend the day together. Something tells me that their recent experiences onboard will have been different to ours!

NC

Samos: We have now been here five days, and have attended to maintenance of water maker in particular as well as some other things.
Yesterday Karen's birthday, we took a car out, and toured around the island, covering over 120 miles. We called by or stopped off at the Capital Samos Town (or Vathi) where we tried to find a road to Posidonio (We found out by chance that Rob and Sarah Bell were anchored in the bay there), but failed, and drove down some very narrow streets, and one particularly steep one, before heading out along the northern coast. At Potami in the north west we marveled at the Meltemi streaming across the water and seeing the damage the waves were doing eroding the coastline. Lunch on the south side in Kampos, was good, and then we drove up and down the hill sides covered in hairpin bends to reach the beaches for a swim. It was still blowing like mad, and we did find a lovely stoney beach but, it was not for swimming on this windy day.
We phoned the Bells' as we approached Pithagorion, and they answered, and then set off to find them again, which we did. Rob collected us off the quay and ferried us across. Three hours later, we could have talked for hours more, I'm sure, we came back to Janika some 12 hours after leaving her in the morning.
And just as we were contemplating dinner in a marina taverna, Geof. and Eileen next door invited us onboard 'Ocean Gem' where we met up with John and Jamie who were both sailing alone, and had popped round from the anchorage. Another drink and more chatting, and at 11pm we said we really must be going to get our dinner. That was no problem. As we finished around midnight people were still arriving to start their meal. Just a normal day!
Today we checked out of Greece, by paper. First the Police, then the Coastguard and finally the Customs. But it was straight forward. I feel checking into Turkey will be more strenuous.
Our plan is to depart Samos tomorrow, and head for Kusadasi as our port of arrival in Turkey. Maybe, we'll get to see Ephesus before we leave.
Just been handed a chocolate pancake by the nice Turkish people next to us. Turkey is looking good already!

NC

Thursday 6 August
Yes. The taverna man did let us use his personal internet connection. Thank you.
We watched a coastguard boat arrive, together with a man secured on the rear platform and the sailors lifted a black dinghy which had a punctured side flotation chamber. That was dropped off, and then the boat roared away to where? Perhaps they had found a man trying to illegally enter the Greek waters, and were taking him off to a holding place?
A Greek navel patrol boat arrived No. P268, and I wondered if it was one of our old ones. It looked like it.
We have found a lot more patrols this side of Greece, for obvious reasons.
Anyway, it was time to go. And we motored out and then enjoyed a great sail all the way to Samos, where we anchored in the bay of Pithagorion at tea time. There were 23 of us in the bay that night, the busiest anchorage we have been in so far. The night went well, and although a couple of boats got a bit close to each other and moved, we were fine.
That night we watched the sun go down, and then the full moon rose above the Turkish mountains and made a spectacular sight. Never get bored watching these things.

Friday 7 August
We called up the marina around the corner and asked if they had space for us, and booked a place. A few days in Samos will be a welcome rest. That must sound funny, but it will give us the time to see the island as well as sort everything out on Janika. She hasn't had a wash for weeks, and the salt needs to be cleaned off, and in a marina we might get some good nights rest too.
In the evening we went ashore, found a man called Lakis in his taverna, and had dinner. Swordfish and Chicken Souvlaki, high up overlooking the rooftops and over to Agathonisi. Then descended over 100 steps and down to the waterfront, where we walked the quay, where most of the tavernas overlooked and where most of the tourists ate.
Returning via the monument commemorating Pythagoros who was born here. Actually, as monuments go, this is a good one. Quite modern and appropriate to his theorem of a right angled triangle.
We returned by a pathway around the front of the coastline, which we were not sure it went all the way to the marina, but it did, and saved us the longer walk on the way out.
NC

Monday 3 August
After stocking up on our provisions ashore, where we met an English lady working in the store, we headed for Arki or Arkoi. Both spellings used.
There was no clear wind direction today and particularly around the island the waters were confused, and all over the place. We tried to sail, but gave up, and motored. However, once clear of the islands we enjoyed a fabulous sail across the short distance to Arki, and found a quiet anchorage with only one other boat in it. In fact it was ‘Watershed’ a boat whose owner we met when he gave a lecture at the CA in Limehouse, earlier this year. Jeremy Waters. We decided to give them the piece of the afternoon siesta, and next morning they were gone.
It was an enchanting place to be. Watching the few comings and goings of a couple of small fishing boats, and a family living at the top of the hill overlooking the bay. The other houses appeared empty. Fish were plentiful, and when I checked the anchor was a little disturbed to look around and see so many of them following me. I still cannot get over the thought that a shark might be out there. The film ‘Jaws’ has a lot to answer for!

Tuesday 4 August
In the morning we rowed over to the beach, (a loose definition) and walked along well-made concrete tracks towards the village of Augusta. It took about 15 minutes to just go over the hill. There we saw the little concrete quay, and 6 boats tied up stern to.
A walk around the place proved that the pilot book’s reference to about 170 people living on the island was not about right. Less, if anything. You really wanted to bring in half a dozen skips and give the place a good clear out. Motorbikes were left just where they had probably given there last choke, and other worn out machinery lay around rusting and rotting. The mini market was found, and we walked by at 10am found it closed, although a lady did look out from a nearby house, and asked if we wanted anything. ‘Bread’ please. She said “No’ and walked back into her house, which is the normal directness of some Greeks. So we carried on back to the waterfront and had a coffee and fresh orange, which were both very good.
At the taverna an Englishman booked a table at the taverna for that night. It was his 25th wedding anniversary, and he went on to explain, to someone, that they had their boat in Samos in the summer, and Leros in the winter. (Probably at the boatyard we visited.) It was clear that the islands in and around these two places had been enough to keep them satisfied for many years, and having a little sight of them ourselves, we could understand why. There is a naturalness about this area where commercialism has not taken hold, and everything seems to slow down to a pace that must have existed here for ever. Or nearly so.
In the afternoon I serviced the generator as she had just passed another 100 hours. In fact it had only taken a month since the previous time, and shows how much we have been away from the luxuries of mains electric in port. The independence that our generator gives us together with our water-maker, means we can go anywhere for days on end. And only the need to replenish our crisps, to go with our evening glass of wine, means we need to find a shop!!!!

Wednesday 5 August
The meltemi winds have abated for a few days, and we are enjoying calm conditions. Like a mill pond, inside the inlet.
We decided to press on though, as our long term forecast had given us a few days to reach Samos, before the meltemi returned, So, we motored the 12 miles to another small group of islands called Agathonisi. We anchored in the harbour close to the beach at lunchtime, in a place called Ay Yeoryiou. We were in sand in 5m and a pretty little place. It’s not easy for Greeks places to be pretty, because the buildings are usually built earthquake proof, and are square flat roofed affairs, resembling toilet blocks more than houses,. But once the climbing shrubs and beautiful flowers take hold, they bring about a very pleasant view. Which, they have here.

NC

25 July (Continued)
We bought all our provisions from the supermarket, and a few other places.
The most interesting purchase was for some rope.
Our lines for tying up in harbour are into their third season, and will soon need replacing. I remembered seeing a man sat inside a little warehouse last time we visited Kalimnos and decided that I would see what was there. We found the man, called Yannis, who was well over 65 and probably over 70, even allowing for the way the sun makes people out here prematurely age. Inside he had many reels of rope stacked up and other boat bits too. I asked how much was the nylon rope on a particular reel. He spoke no English and us no Greek, apart from the pleasantries, but again, we got by. He said the rope was 20 mm in diameter, and had 100m on the reel. I wanted 30 metres. I helped him by lifting the reel onto a large weighing machine.
It appeared that 1Kg of rope would cost 6 euro, and that 3m of rope weighed 1Kg.
This was like being back at school. And I remembered the times we used to say to the maths teacher, “can’t you give us some questions, that are really useful in everyday life”. They never could. And this was the perfect example.
Anyway, by now I was really enjoying the experience, and Karen was too. Yannis seemed to be having a laugh as well. (We were probably his first customer that day, or maybe even that week!)
I said that we wanted 30 m, trusting, that our calculations were the same as his. He gave me one end of the rope, and I measured out 30m along a table, which he seemed to be saying was a metre wide.
I measured out 15m, and then just folded the other 15m along the same initial length, making 30m in all.
Then, he took the rope which I had just measured out, and placed it onto a smaller weighing machine. It read 8.5Kg. So, we all had a little sense of pleasure, that the rope weighed a bit less than we had thought. So, 8.5 x 6 euro, cost 51 euro. And then he gave me two plastic pieces, which we could use to make an eye with the rope ends.
Deal done, and the first time we had bought rope by weight. The plastic pieces, he gave for free, saying that they were in lieu of a cup of coffee which he was unable to offer us. How kind.
By now, Kalimnos was boiling. We decided to leave right away, and take a small trip up the west coast which I hoped would have some shelter from the wind, and enable us to get out of the heat.

A man we met in Nisyros recently told us about a few nice places, and one was in Emborios. After a hairy trip with water on deck, and mostly head to wind, we arrived in Emborios, and just as Ian had described, there were several buoys laid close to the village, next to a beach. Each buoy had a name of a taverna on it, so the idea, that if you use there buoy, you frequent the relevant establishment. Sounded reasonable.
I chose the buoy which was closest to the beach, on the inside of some yachts already lying to their buoys.
We managed to tie up first time, which was good, as we had some spectators on the beach. And flying the red ensign, meant that we had to give a good show!
However, it was nearly not so! Just as we approached the buoy, nice and slowly, I saw Janika was passing it. I tightened up the wheel, so the rudder was still, and walked along the deck, to enquire of the ‘first mate’, what was happening. I was informed that the buoy had a great big nasty rusty piece of metal loop on top of it, and she also thought that the whole buoy was metal, and didn’t want it to scrape down Janika’s side. I reassured the first mate, that the buoy was plastic, and after dropping a lasso over it, we pulled the buoy to the front, and secured it off.
We were tied onto a buoy with ’ARTISTICO’ written on the side. So, we knew where dinner would be that night.
That was our first night of three. In a delightful little place. We met an English couple, Simon and Suzy, together with their two charming daughters, Amy and Ellen.
They were staying in a self catering place which Simon had found on the internet. But the catering was mostly being done in Artistico’s! By the very friendly couple, George and Irene Glinatsi. Including, George’s live guitar playing in the evenings.
(As a side note: This place is really away from it all, and small, so there are not too many people there. Just enough to give atmosphere. If you can survive with 4 taverna;, one shop, and a van that arrives every afternoon with vegetables. A beach fronted with trees, whose name I’ve forgotten. But they are the ones, that live next to salt water, and each evening put the salt back out. I don’t know how they do that, but must find out. Then this is for you.)
We invited Simon ,Suzy and the girls to come aboard if they were swimming by. And one afternoon I heard this coughing sound, looked out and saw this young girl having fits of coughing, right by Janika. She came over to my call. It was Ellen, and came onboard for a drink of coke. Before long all were onboard and it was time for ‘Gins’. Good timing.
We so enjoyed our time in Emborios, and the good company of Simon and Suzy’s family.

There was no internet, so we relied upon the Navtax for weather, which is fine, but it kept telling us, that there were force 7 and 8’s out there. And we wanted 3’s 4’s or 5’s. By Tuesday we decided to go. The telephone text weather service, was telling us that he winds were not so strong along the west coast of Kalimnos, and in the afternoon we let go of our buoy, and departed.
(That reminds me! The previous day, we watched a group of people running along the waters edge, down the quay, and onto dinghy’s in a rush. We looked out, and could see what all the fuss was about. A charter boat had got loose from its buoy and was drifting out across the water, towards another small island! They were past us before I could get our dinghy out, as the outboard was not fitted. No point as we were so close to the shore. If they had not noticed, I would say that inside 15 minutes the boat would have been pounded against the rocky shore.)

We experienced another heavy weather motoring passage and crossed from Kalimnos island through the main channel between Mikro Glaronisia and N.Vlona which through the rocky shallows around the two main islands is free of dangers.
By mid afternoon, we had reached Pandeli on Leros. We had a quick look in the harbour, but our heart was not in it, and when we found that it was full, with boats and yachts rafted two out, it was for us, a ‘no brainer’. We went and anchored in the bay lying to the south west of the harbour.
The only real obstacle then was, passing by an Austrian yacht, which was too clearly, a naturist boat, with everything hanging out. Not nice.

We both had a swim, and found our anchor well dug in, with the cleanest sand we had seen for a long time. Great.

Meltemi – A wind that begins blowing in June and early July, reaches full strength in July and August, and dies off at the end of September and early October.
Meltemi is a Turkish name that blows from the north, and that is what we have been having for the last couple of weeks. It varies in strength from a force 4 (nice) to 7-8 (not nice).
As we pass up through the Dodecanese islands we are faced with head winds all the way, and onward along the Turkish coast to Ayvalik.
We don’t know where we shall cross over to Turkey but if the Meltemi continues to hamper our progress we may be forced onto the Turkish coast sooner, where the wind may be more moderate.

Wednesday 29 July
We had an unsettled night. The wind continued NW force 5, and several times we awoke and one of us checked out the other boats in the bay.
Now, it is afternoon, and while we shade from the sun, and write this Blog, the wind has calmed and we look forward to taking our dinghy into the port this evening.

But no internet available!
On Wednesday evening we walked up the hill to Platanos, about 15 minutes, and met a nice Danish family on our way. They said they had been coming here since 1980! When we reached Platanos we wondered why? Yes it is the capital of Leros. But it looked like it had been in decline all my lifetime. We estimated that half of the property, whether home or shop, was empty, and had been for ages.
A man cooked souvlaki on a bbq in the town square and music blared out from a load speaker. Men, mostly, sat around tables. Not inspiring at all.
We ventured down the hill’s other side towards Ay Marina, where the Danish man had said to visit. Maybe, because it was blowing a hooley, and waves splashed up over the quay, and it was so windy, but we couldn’t believe the difference between ‘our’side of the hill, and here. But, it was not for staying in.
So, we returned over the hill and back to Pandeli. There we sat at a table on the beach, in-front of a taverna, and had wine and mezes, while the sun went down, and soon, the place was busy.
A lot of people were watching someone with a fishing line off the side of the mole. We really should have guessed before, and then up came an octopus. It was killed.
I still can not understand what there is to like about octopus. And promptly resolved to become the founding member of the ‘save the octopus’ group.
After another half carafe of wine, we walked to our dinghy and motored out of the harbour, through several yacht,s which were anchored right there in the harbour entrance. Janika was anchored a bit further away, as we prefer to be in a quieter location. Next morning when the wind blew up, I think they wished they were with us!

Thursday 30 July
The forecast still gave warning of strong winds. We decided to try a short passage up the Partheni, a place in the north of Leros which promised good shelter, and should take about 2-3 hours only.
Outside, we found 20-25 knot winds, with a rough sea. And we put out little main and genoa and tacked our way north against the wind. It was bumpy, and in the end, as we neared the land we motored through the islands and rocks to our destination. Finishing up running downwind through some fish farms and around a long dogleg course in which we ended up in a lovely little sheltered bay.
There were already two Italian yachts anchored, amongst lots of fishing boats, and we found a place for us.
I couldn’t see through the green water. Even diving down to find how our anchor was dug in, ears hurting, didn’t work. It was too cloudy down there. Karen believed it was the mud bottom, and said she was happy with the way the anchor ‘came up’ when we moored, so we put on a snubber and had a drink. (Snubber – Rope tied onto the anchor chain, to take the weight off the windlass and also to give some ‘spring’ in case of violent surge.)
A lovely evening. One of the best, listening to the Shepard calling his goats, and them trotting along, bells gangling. Later. No sound at all, just the night sky to look at in amazement.

Friday 31 July
The weather is interesting, if unchangeable at the moment. The forecast from Izmir on Navtax says,” Near gale force 7 beaufort and state of sea very rough to high”. However, this does cover a large area, and areas around the islands can be different.
What is certain, is that we have been experiencing meltemi wind for about three weeks.
This was confirmed by Don, a man who we met at the Agmar marine boatyard in Partheni. We had gone ashore to see the boatyard, and buy some gas and boat spares, and generally find out what was about.
We tied up dinghy, and then walked around the side of an army camp, talked to some soldiers to ask the way, so they wouldn’t shoot at us! And found Don in the office of a sizeable boatyard. He said that the meltemi had gone crazy, it was not acting as it normally did. Usually it came up in the morning about 10, and then blew a bit, and subsided in the afternoon. Now, he said it just blows all the time!
Don had lived in Leros for the last 12 years. He sailed to Greece, was fed up with England, and bought a house, and stayed.
Don gave us a five day forecast, and we bought a cylinder of gas and went away thinking, “ perhaps we should think about leaving Janika here over winter some time”. It all looked very well organised.
There is even an airstrip next door, and it looks as though Olympic Airways flys here from Athens every day.
Returning back to our dinghy, we came across a lady buying some fruit and veg. from a man with a pickup. Bingo! Karen bought up lots of things. Aubergine, corgette, peaches, nectarines, tomatoes, cucumber and potatoes. Actually the lady had just bought all his potatoes! But, he asked her if she would give 1Kg back for us, and would bring her 1Kg back tomorrow. At least that’s what it all sounded like. A very friendly man, and perfect timing for us.

Saturday 1 August
After breakfast, we weighed anchor and Karen helmed Janika out of the bay past the fish farms and out into the open sea called the Dhiavlos Lipson It was only five miles across to our next island called Lipsoi, and there was another ‘large wave’ sea running with a 20-25 knot northerly wind. We decided to tack our way across, and get more experience of these conditions.
It was exciting or fearful, depending upon your perspective. Waves flew overhead, and made Janika salt bound once more. In fact I can’t remember the last time that we were able to give her a nice wash of fresh water all over.
Just before noon, we had a gust hit us of 29 knots, and we healed over more than usual. Discretion being the better part of valour, that was our signal to shorten the sails, and then we made for the bay on the south of Lipsoi, now only 1.5 miles away.
There were several yachts moored in the bay, where the water was as we had been told, beautiful colours of blue through turquoise.
Apart from a French boat, coming within a few feet of us, while trying to anchor. And as I was talking to myself about the Frenchman’s manoeuvre, Karen heard me, came up on deck and seeing the other boats bow three feet from our side, uttered a few words, told him to go away and that he was crazy. The Frenchman replied, “idiot”.
He then proceeded to make more unsuccessful attempts at anchoring around everyone else who, by now, were all up and watching ready to protect their own boats. One other Frenchman suggested that he go to a mooring buoy in the next bay. In the event, he eventually did, making several unsuccessful goes at that too. But, at last, he managed to tie the boat onto the buoy, to every ones relief.
Karen enjoyed a nice swim in the cool blue water, and confirmed that our anchor was well dug in, but suggested another 5m of chain, to which I duly responded. We were expecting stronger winds in the evening too.

Sunday 2 August
We were in a delightful place, and Karen did like the bay, but I was interested in going around the headland, and seeing what the island’s town of Lipso was like. Also, surrounded by an Austrian man moving around his boat completely naked, and most on the beach in front of us the same, had something to do with it. (I was even more surprised when we reached Lipso and the first sign I saw said, “No nakedness on the island of Lipsoi allowed”.)
Despite a very good looking inside harbour behind a breakwater for smaller boats, we read that the holding was not too good, and chose to anchor in the outer harbour, but away from the ferry manoeuvrings. A nice spot, and would you believe it, that after we were finished with anchoring, I saw an old Najad coming towards us, and they anchored outside too. It was the first Najad we had seen since leaving Lefkas in early June.
We shall explore the town tonight. It’s not big, because only 600 people live on the island in total.
Given some luck, we might find an internet, but no promises.

NC

Tuesday 21 passed by quietly, until the evening. Then, we were greeted with Greek music, and dancing as the celebrations of the regatta leg from Kos to Nisyros took place.
We found out that the regatta boats were racing in a series of races on the Rhodes Cup, which was moving onto Symi and then Rhodes in two days time.
The event certainly brought out the local people and the tavernas were busy. An ice cream and coffee ashore after dinner onboard, was a must.

Wednesday 23 July
Next morning the weather was looking a little better. That means, less wind. We’re never satisfied, not enough, or too much wind. Almost as bad as the farmers complaining about the rain in a similar way!

We found out that the regatta was due to start at 10 o’clock, and much as we would like to have seen them off, it would have made us late. The forecast was telling us, that we should be away by 9, and in by 3pm. After that the wind was looking like building up again. We had planned to do 30 miles, so at an average of 5 miles per hour, six hours would be about right.
We let go of the harbour wall at 8.30am and with other boats headed out to sea. Most went east toward Symi, and we headed north. Straight away we were sailing on a beam reach, towards the northern end of Kos doing 4 knots.
A period on engine and as we neared Kos the wind came back again and we put Janika on a close reach and sailed at 4 knots again, fine.
Then the wind picked up as we turned around the headland and we progressively shortened the sails, and Janika increased speed. This continued for some time, and despite shortening the sails into small size, we continued to sail fast and Janika bounced over the heavy seas.
We were passing through the gap between the Turkish port of Bodrum and Greek port of Kos. The wind funnelled down from the north, and there was nowhere for the sea to go, quickly, so it just built up into a fierce chop. And we were in it!
Water was coming straight over the bow, and cascading down the side decks. Swooshing noises were made by the amount of water rushing down the scuppers. Now and then Janika’s bow even dug into the foaming sea, and when she came up, water shot across the dinghy, which was secured onto the fore deck, and drenched everything in its path.
By now things were getting pretty exhilarating, if also bringing concern in equal measure. When we saw a gust come in at 32knots, that was decision time. 32 is a top end force 7. At 34 it becomes a full-blown gale. At this stage, it was a gust, but we didn’t take any chances, and steered Janika to windward while we pulled in the sails. Then we continued by motoring across the entrance of Kos harbour. Several other boats did the same as us, and we felt quite proud that we had pushed our comfort zone out, a bit further.
We anchored in the east bay of Pserimos island mid afternoon, and took delight in a sheltered bay which cut down the wind, but more so, reduced the swell running outside to little. We were safe.

Two days in Pserimos watching the strong wind outside, and checking the weather, was really enough. We were both bored, but had watched a few yachts moving about outside, and could see that, things were still too violent for us. By now eight boats were in the bay. Numbers had increased while we had been there. Of course the large gullets and day trippers popped in during the day. They were much bigger, and had incomes to get. Sure in the knowledge, that once August was gone they would have to wait another year before the tourists returned.
At around 6pm on Friday evening I looked at the latest Navtax weather report. It forecast that the winds would rise to force 7the next day, and I realised that we could be here another two nights at least! Karen will tell you, it’s because I was thinking about our food running low, or chocolate supplies had run out, but I knew she was feeling a bit bored too.
So, I suggested that we make a short 12 mile run into Kalimnos, which we had been to before, and was around the other side of the island. We discussed the most likely route, to gain the most shelter from the wind. Not easy, because around the islands, it doesn’t always go as you expect.
We weighed anchor, and as we left the bay, the winds increased and we logged 32 knots again on our windex indicator. Not a good sign. But as we ran along the south side of Pserimos, it eased back, and we found we were in a solid force 5, gusting 6. Plenty of bashing into the wind as we cleared the island, and made our way across to Kalimnos. A little over two hours later, we tied up stern to the new concrete quay in front of George’s taverna. (Another George.)

Saturday 25 July.
Happy to be here, although, the heat from the island is intense. It’s amazing what a difference it makes being either, ‘in land’ or out by the islands.
Now off to the internet café, to report in, and then get supplies!

NC

Today is a quiet day. I've posted some photos on the site, but our friend Steve, who manages the site, is in Milton Keynes, and until he returns home, they will not appear on the site. But, if you want to see us both on a quad bike that is too small for two, it's worth waiting for!
When I was studying at Swindon College in the evenings, I remember the lecturer saying that "communication is 70% 'non - verbal'" In other words, through talking, we only use 30% of our means of getting our message across. I had a reminder of that when Karen and I went ashore to buy some groceries. As we approached the little store, with its covered area for fresh produce, a rather large lady was sitting down on a plastic chair, and beckoned us to sit down. Which I did, while Karen rummaged around for fresh tomatoes and aubergienes etc. I said, :do you speak English?" And she said "no". So then we continued buy using hand signals and a few little words that we each knew of each others language. She had lived high up on the village, and an earthquake had caused her family to move down to Palon, where we were. I think! She was a happy soul, and despite knowing that we didn't know what she said, continued to chunter away. Perhaps she thought that if she talked enough, some of it would rub off on us!
The wind had freshened today, and now that we have good internet, we can see that strong winds may be a feature over the next few days.
We are hoping that we might find a way around Kos tomorrow, and if so, will head for Leros.
Yesterday we had 35.5 degrees in the shade. I dare not imagine what it was out in the sun. 50+ without doubt.

NC

20 July 2009
We are still in Nissyros, and I think I managed to get an update on our Blog off this morning, before we lost the connection. This was done in a car rental shop run by Mike, a Greek/American and his American wife Marilyn. Interestingly Mike explained that in 1969, after the War, there was little employment in Greece, and his father who had four sons, only had enough money to give good schooling to one son. So, he sent the other three to America (we don’t know the details). Anyway, they made good, and Mike returned to Nissyros the place where he was born, together with his American wife and daughter Irene. This story is not uncommon to hear in Greece. We have met many people who went to Canada, Australia etc to ‘find their fortune’, and then return to Greece back in their own home village for the summer each year. Probably, most are retired and work has finished.

We are enjoying our stay here, and although we were planning to leave tomorrow, we heard this morning that a regatta is taking place today and tomorrow, and there will be singing and dancing in the square. So, we want to wait and see!

Several things have happened over the last five days.
We arrived on Thursday after a seven hour sail, broad reached from a force 5-6-7 NNW wind, with some moderate swells. Around the southern point of Kos, we momentarily recorded 8.2 knots. So, several 6-7 knot spurts along the way. Karen thought it was the best sailing she had experienced.

Dennis and Pam arrived on Saturday, while we went to Mandraki, the Capital of the island. We travelled on a quad bike! Yes you read right. We managed to get the only quad bike on the island. And as neither of us wanted to ride a scooter, at 10 euros for a day it was great fun.
We walked a long way to the top where the ruins of a 2400 year old castle have been given some sympathetic treatment for tourists. Large blocks of chiselled volcanic rock forms the outer walls of what must have been an impressive structure.
Lunch down below in the town was a treat, under two large well leaf covered trees, in the shade.
On Sunday Karen and I went off early on our quad bike to see the volcano. We left at 7.30 and three quarters of an hour later we arrived and saw the extinct (but still smoking, so is it?) volcano, which measures 2.5 miles across and is spectacular.
We returned via a little hilltop village called Emporios, where whilst drinking coffee, hot for Karen, and cold for me, (Frappe) we found out that the village had 22 people living there in the winter and over 200 in the summer. Again reference to those who return to home in the summer, and perhaps some holiday makers. But not many there!
Much of the village was fallen down, through earthquake damage.
We returned to Pali the port and returned the quad to George. That’s George of the ‘Captains Table’ a taverna which he runs together with his rent a bike business.
When we got to Janika, Dennis said, “I’ve got some news for you”!
We had been told by the harbour man, Dimitrius, that all boats skippers whose boats were not leaving by 11.00 o’clock that morning, had to report to the Port Police with their papers. As we wanted to stay, I said that I would go and see George again, hire the quad and Dennis and I could set off for Mandraki and pay our taxes and have our papers checked and stamped. And that’s what we did. Including a large bottle of Mythos for each of us in Mandraki town when we were passed by the police. Very nice. Thankfully, Dennis didn’t whisper in my ear, “slow down Nigel” once.
When we returned to Pali, a boat that had arrived that morning from Turkey without the proper travel log, had left. So, it does show that it is better to play the rules correctly. They missed a real treat in Nissyros. We had paid 26 euros for our 5 day stay. And 5 euro each day for electric.
Dinner was preceded by drinks onboard ‘Dawnstrike’ with Dennis and Pam, and we dinned at Georges taverna.

Monday 20 July
We waved goodbye to Dennis and Pam as they motored out of the harbour on their way to Simi and then Marmaris.
With a few hours left of hire on the quad, we used the time to travel along the north eastern coastline of the island. What was there was very natural, as the whole island is. Rock partially covered with some small trees and scrub. Some small holdings, where people seem, amazingly, to live. In little square concrete boxes and there stuff littered about the plot. Evidence of past mining and agricultural endeavours, which little has been done to lately.
As we returned the quad to George for the second day running, he told us that the regatta was coming today.
So far we have seen 30 boats cross an artificial finishing line, between two yellow buoys, just outside the harbour, and tie up on the south quay which had been cleared of other yachts this morning. They are all rafted out 4 and 5 deep and tonight should be interesting! And a good night for the tavernas! We shall eat onboard.

Kalimnos
We were in Kalimnos for five days mainly to shelter from the strong force 6-7 northerlies. We found a place in the old quay together with other ‘boaties’, probably a dozen including the odd stink pot and catamaran. People from all nations, French; German; Italian; Swedish and Finnish are quite regular, as well as American; Greek; Turkish and of course, the Brits.
We met two couples who must get a mention. Dennis & Pam onboard ‘Dawnstrike’ and Mike & Jane onboard ‘Restless’. Every evening found us meeting up at a favoured ‘Ouzerie’ or Dinner or both and we enjoyed everyones company a lot.
Dennis in particular was a mine of knowledge based upon experience, which makes a big difference. Thank you Dennis. When someone pulls up our anchor chain again, I shall think about what you taught us.
We found ourselves laughing away the evenings with good companions.

Kalimnos will always be associated with the world of sponge-fishing. As here historically is the place where the sponge fishers set off on their journey to the coasts of Africa, and risked their lives to collect sponges. Nowadays the sponges come from Greece, or the cheaper ones from America! The sponge shops are all over, and of course we had to have one. They are part plant, part animal and looked after, last a long time.

The island is a great craggy lump of rock, steep and bare of vegetation. As ‘Heikell’ says in his pilot, “Kalimnos imparts a feeling of prehistoric permanence – long after the human race has disappeared, you feel that Kalimnos will remain much as it is today.”
Despite this we found the town and its people very friendly. And where else can you get a litre of Gordons for 9.80 euro?

Other interests during our stay included a taxi ride up to the monastery, which we could see from our boat right up on top of the rock, together with its bell tower. And all lit up at night. Great views, from up there. We walked down together, and once we had diverted across some scrub ground to find the road, saving ourselves some time in the early afternoon sun, we found our way down without trouble, and had a couple of beers to cool off on the waterfront, with toasted sandwiches.

On Friday 17 we decided to leave. By now we were low on water, and had to top up with two 10 litre bottles enabling us to have a shower the night before. As we drink our water from the tanks, we are very particular about filling them from the shore at all. And our watermaker looks after us wonderfully.
So, although forecast was still saying force 5-6 and someone said 7 just as we departed, we knew the wind would be from abaft the beam, and therefore easier to manage. So we went, after saying our goodbyes, to Gideon right there on the quay, and of course D & P and M & J. In fact Dennis and Pam waved to us as we motored out of the harbour. (There boat was moored further up the town on the new quay.)

Thursday 9 July
We caught a local bus up to the Chora (Main settlement) and on further to a bus stop on the other side of the island. A few other people got off with us. In the middle of no where!
A small sign to the left, read ‘Monastery’. And we all walked along down a narrow road, in the heat of the morning.
Well, it had seemed a good idea yesterday when we read about the monastery of the Chozoviotissa, built about 1017. And “one of the most imposing churches in the Aegean, built on a sheer rock 300m. above sea level, from which one can gaze over the sea.”
So, we descended down the road. But, why were we going down, when this place was 300m. above the sea? All was revealed when we got to the bottom. We turned the corner, and there through a gate was the monastery. UP! Along a long, winding pathway. It looked magnificent, and really set our minds wondering what we would discover.
It was a hot walk and thankfully there was a small building halfway up where people could rest in the shade a while. As I left the place, and glanced down, a chap looked all-in, and I said cold beers inside mate. That cheered him up no end. But, by the time he got there, I was long gone! No beers.
The door into the monastery was very low. About 5 ft. high, and inside we climbed up a narrow stairway in stone with the mountain on one side, and the outside wall of the monastery on the other. The monastery was built, just clinging to the side of the mountain.
The stairs continued up, thankfully it was much cooler now, out of the sunshine. A guide gestured us up another stairway, but by this time, Karen was overcome by the experience. The height of the steps, the claustrophobic feeling of the narrowness of the place, all added to the climb to arrive where we were. So, we rested for 15 minutes as others passed by.
In time we reached two rooms like a chapel, where a monk sat chatting away in Greek. His long beard hanging down as if the length in inches gave way to his age, and how long he had been there. There was also a terrace, which I walked out onto, and found the sun beating down remorselessly. But the view over the sea was fantastic. The Aegean was still, almost like a mill-pond. How often can it be like that, we thought? Not often.
After, we were led into another room, where we were served with loucomi (Turkish delight as we know it) and retsina mixed with honey. The loucomi was delicious, the retsina better than expected. (Without honey it’s like paraffin!)
I’ll put a photo of the monastery in the picture gallery. It was an experience.
We returned to the solitary bus stop, where we met some other people, the bus came and we got off at the Chora for lunch.

It was a good lunch. I had melon and palma ham with a beer. Good but Karen’s was more interesting. An egg, with feta cheese and tomato roasted in the oven, and served in the same dish. Delicious. (Karen has since made some on the boat, and whilst in her opinion not perfected, it was very good. I think I prefer feta baked. Not to keen on it as normally eaten, cold in a Greek salad)

Whilst swimming along the boat and cleaning along the waterline that evening a dinghy turned up with Americans onboard asking if “we had been anywhere special recently”. I thought, that was a good line.
We invited Bill & Bonny onboard for a drink. And I quickly got showered and changed into a pair of shorts while they sat down in the cockpit.
We chatted away. The killer though, was when he put his feet onto the spokes of the yachts wheel. Karen was not pleased, and asked him politely to remove them. I’ll spare you the rest.

Friday 10 July
We sailed along the coast of Amorgos, northwards and had lunch inside a small inlet which was as described in Heikell’s pilot book, “like a fjord. High rocks faces all around us. Called Vilakardha. It was a bit intimidating, so we decided not to stay overnight and went onto the island of Kinaros.
On the way we saw more dolphins. It was true, that Amorgos did have more dolphins than we have seen elsewhere.
Disappointment, at 7pm. We couldn’t find anywhere to anchor of Kinaros. The only places shown in the ‘Pilot’ where taken by fishermen, with no room for us.
So we set off further to the next island 7 miles away, and with the sun setting gave our engine full revs.
In Levitha we anchored in 15m. and second time thought we found sand, and settled down for the night, at 9pm.

Saturday 11 July
We moved into the eastern bay this morning, where we knew there were some mooring buoys to tie up to. And there were. They were good ones too. It looked as though a European grant of 30,000 euros had been given for something here. So perhaps the buoys were part of it.
Only two families live on the island of Levitha. It is barren, and goats could be heard and seen along the waters edge.
A sign indicated that a taverna existed over the hill. So, in the evening we walked for about 15 minutes and found a farm with buildings, and a flat area paved with a wooden structure covered with palm leaves. Some people were already there having dinner, and we sat down.
A man called Manoles attended us, and we ate well, on lamb liver stifado and aubergine with a main course of fish, washed down with Boutari wine. No local wines here. At 43 euros quite a lot, but bearing in mind the location we accepted it with compliments and put it down as another experience. Amazing. Here where we were at least 25 miles from any other inhabited island and out of reach of mobile phone technology.
When we returned with our all important torch in hand to guide the way. We rowed our way back to Janika and marvelled at the night sky. No artificial light. The sky was alive with stars and the Milky Way showed out loud.

Sunday 12 July
It was going to be too hot staying here, so we set off for Kalimos 25 miles east, and sailed all the way in a moderate swell at 3-5 knots on a broad reach.
We arrived in the afternoon, and tied up at the town quay.
Forecast shows wind freshening later this week, so good to be in shelter.

NC

NAXOS:

Visiting Naxos was another good time for us both. Meeting our friends Peter and Diana, who live on the island, gives it a special association.
The five days we spent in Naxos, were mostly in and around the harbour and town.
Careful to find the shade in the hot afternoons, perhaps a rest, and then, like the Greeks, up and about from six till past twelve sometimes.
We had dinners onboard and ashore at ‘The Blue Door’ and ice creams of course, somewhere afterwards.
One day Peter had arranged to take some people on a boat trip to Nauosa on Paros, just ten miles across the other side of the channel that passes between Naxios and Paros. Peter’s trip, which was only the last one of several he has done, is offered on a friendly basis, with a contribution requested to go towards a charity giving hope to find a cure for pancreas cancer.
Peter asked if we would like to accompany him with our boat. Both ‘Rainbow’ and ‘Janika’ making the trip. We asked another couple, Colin and Jenny to join us. In fact they were hoping to join us with their boat ‘Butterfly’, but a fall off of there scooter the day before had put paid to that.
So, with bruises hurting his ribs, Colin was persuaded to come, with Jenny and off we set. Well, it is ten miles to Nauosa by the fast route. i.e. a straight line, but the wind was on the bow, so we tacked and tacked and tacked and by 2pm had found our way into the little harbour at Nauosa. Delightful it all was. Lunch with ten of us in total was equally delightful. The taverna provided excellent food, and the company provided plenty of conversation.
A return by motor in the late afternoon was necessary as the wind had gone. But the swell remained and after a swim we found it quite bumpy on the way back to Naxos, dodging ferries on route.

Another afternoon saw us under cover watching Murray at Wimbledon, whilst drinking large (megala) beers. I can’t take to much alcohol after lunch, but it certainly helped me accept those important lost points, and I’m on the edge of my seat.
It was a good way to spend time keeping out of the shade.

Before long we had to say our goodbyes, as we believe there is a danger, particularly in Naxos that you become ‘port bound’. It’s not painful, but the longer it goes on, the more difficult it is to leave. There are people on boats in the harbour, who have been there three years, just going home for the winter season! No names. But you know who you are!

Friday 3 July.
We departed after Costas returned from his siesta at 6pm. I said hello Costas, we’re leaving now, how much do we owe you please? Costas said, leaving now?
We wanted to get away from the Saturday night noise, and found ourselves a sandy beach just around the corner from the town.
It was a quiet night, but the swell found us, and rocked us, more than just to sleep!

Saturday 4 July.
We were up early, and by 7.30am were motoring just off the beach from where Peter and Diana live, saying goodbye by phone as we headed for Skhinousa, a little island south, which Peter had recommended. Before long, we had a wind, and sailed all the way to Skhinousa, even into the harbour, where we downed sail, and moored stern to the quay. Two stink-pots were there, but no-one helped us with our lines. (What can I say! Except that’s stink-pots for you)
Karen and I had lunch ashore in the taverna overlooking the harbour, and found a very friendly man called Nikolas. He and his wife had already been in Skhinousa several weeks, and had been visiting the island for the last fifteen years. (If that’s not a recommendation, I don’t know what is!)
Lunch at the taverna by the port was very good. Especially there salads with wonderful dressings. But the zuccini balls, (corgette) were even better. And now I’ve decided they are amongst my favorite things.
Afternoon was at rest. We were still tired. In fact, I can’t remember when we were not tired! It must be the heat.
Dinner was ashore as well, which is unheard of. Diana had recommended ‘Deli’ up on the Chora, (Main village). That was a pleasant 1km walk up hill at eight o’clock. It had great views, and we both had prawns. Then, downhill 1km, and yes, as usual we forgot our torch, so we walked along the road, instead of the little donkey tracks. Then we only had one scooter pass us. Usefully, the moon was out, so we had some light after all.

Next day we found a little bay around the eastern side of the island, and spent most of the day there. By late afternoon though, the wind was still pushing into the bay, and I decided I couldn’t risk it continuing all through the night, so we upped anchor and sailed six miles to Andikaros. An uninhabited island. Actually, I think we like these the best of all. There was another yacht there when we arrived, but we spent a peaceful evening, and although Karen thought the place a bit scary, by morning she had changed her mind, and decided it was absolutely breathtakingly raw. We felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. We were!

On Monday 6th, we read our books. Mine was about Kashmir. A beautiful place, with some very sorry history. The place I would put at the top of my list, if we could go there in safety. We swam and enjoyed the solitude.
Mid afternoon, we picked up out anchor and sailed towards Amorgos. A great big island south of us. Just lately we have been able to sail in gentle winds, doing anything from 3 -6 knots in light swells, and it has been wonderful. In fact sometimes we deliberately sail so that the direction of the wind will give us a comfortable trip, and find our new islands that way.
We watched dolphins pass by. Words can’t express the feeling of something so beautiful as a school of dolphins, wild and gentle at the same time.
At tea time we anchored in Kalotaritissa Bay on the western side of Amorgos, and parked ourselves just away from the fishing boats and day trippers, who were just finishing off there last trips and making for home. In an hour and a half, we were all alone, and dinner was cooking. Great. And I had a swim, just to make sure the anchor was dug in. (Twice in one day. A lot for me)

Next morning we made for the main port, Katapola. On the way there Karen saw a little inlet. It was called Akrotiri and we went and had a look. That was another day gone!

Today we arrived in Katapola, and here we are. I’ll tell more later, because right now it’s 9.15pm and I want to get this off onto the internet.
You won’t believe where we are going tomorrow!

NC

Sunday 28 June
We left Andiparos and had a fantastic sail in gentle winds all the way around the southern shores of Paros. And joined Peter, who sailed out to meet us in Ormos Marmara, a large bay on the east side of Paros.
We enjoyed lunch onboard, and sharing our stories with each other. Peter then returned to an anchorage he had found, where he and Robert, a Naxos local boat resident, had been waiting over the weekend while the 300 or so motor boat visitors enjoyed the use of Naxos harbour.
Next morning, we motored into Naxos harbour, which by mid morning had been mostly emptied of motor boats. We re-acqainted ourselves with Costas, the man in charge of the harbour, and as we were tying up Peter and Robert arrived themselves. So, I helped them to moor up.

Peter and Diana invited us onboard 'Rainbow' and we had a great dinner, and lots of chat. Followed by ice-creams ashore!
We shall be here for a few days and carry out some jobs. I've already ordered a long length of diesel pipe, which Nikos (chandlery) has coming from Athens. That was after a ride on the back of Peter's scooter, which saved me a longish walk in the hot sun, so I was grateful.

It is so nice to be here. Because we have our good friends Peter and Diana, and the place is familiar to us, being our third visit.

NC

23 June.
Winds calmed down this morning, and after visiting the Internet café and buying bread and milk we raised our anchor and departed Adhamas at 12.40pm.
We had a really good sail all the way today.
We followed around the northern coastline of the island, and stopped in Mandrakia for lunch. An interesting place beside the beach, because there were examples of something Milos has that we have not seen elsewhere. Syrmata houses. They were built by the fishermen, after the mid. 19th Century, when they no longer feared either Turks or pirates sacking their homes. They sit right by the waters edge, and have a little boat house underneath the small house ontop. This is where the fisherman could finish after a days hard work, with his boat safely stored. They are all beautifully coloured, and it looks as if now some are used as holiday homes.
A trip around the headland took us along the Sarakiniko coast where he natural beauty of natures has sculpted the rocks into wavy formations. The like you may never have seen before. At 17.30pm we anchored in Pollonia, the second port of Milos, but really small. I checked out the anchor, and it was like swimming in a fish tank. Winds were still strong, but this side of the island afforded better shelter.

24 June.
We just finished breakfast and had decided to stay as forecast winds were 6 – 7. Suddenly two ‘toots’ and a ferry arrived. The men onboard motioned us to move over, and whilst we prepared to move our boat, they were soon away and off to their next stop.
An hour later we assisted a couple on their Moody 375, (Bev. Short for Beverly – Male, and Heather. We now refer to them as ‘Bev & Heth). They had followed us in on the previous night, and now they wanted to leave, found their anchor was caught around a large anchor chain on the sea bed. The obstruction was cleared, and in the conversation between us, Bev & Heth decided to stay, and we both moved over onto buoyed moorings which were used by the fishing boats, but we thought we would give them a go and see what happened.
This proved to be a good decision. And we enjoyed two more nights on our secure mooring. So much so, that when it came time to leave, we felt so safe there, that it was difficult to decide to go!
We enjoyed an evening onboard Catavento 2 with Bev & Heth, as a thanks for our assistance. And on the following day we took two buses and visited the capital of Milos, called Plaka.

25 June.
We visited the Milos Museum, which has been open since 1984 and is housed in a small neoclassical building in Plaka. It contains antiquities discovered during excavations on the island and dating from the late 4th millennium BC!
In particular, the museum houses the ‘Venus de Milo’ the Aphrodite of Milos, which was sculpted in the Hellenistic period, and is one of the best known pieces of ancient Greek sculpture. (However, the statue in the museum is a copy of the original which is housed in the Louvre in Paris.)
Interestingly, it was the only thing which I was allowed to photograph And, the only one I wanted to!

In the afternoon, I was head down in the diesel tank, back onboard trying to cure ‘diesel bug’ which we have. Anyway, not an interesting story, except that in order to get down close to the bottom of the tank, I lay head down in the cockpit locker to do so. And when the time came to get back up, I couldn’t do it on my own, and Karen had to seriously use all of her strength to get me back up. It was quite an effort. I think she still bears the muscle pain now, several days later.

26 June.
Another trip for shopping ashore, and after that we did depart Pollonia, with a little sadness as it had been such a lovely stop.
We sailed onto Folegrandros an island to the south east of Milos, and anchored in the harbour at 18.45.
Not much there, although we didn’t go ashore, but decided to press on and see if we could meet up with Peter (Our good friend who we christened Arkwright from last year when we met with him and his good lady Diana).

27 June.
A gentle sail, (some of the time) towards Andiparos, about 23 miles away saw us arrive at 3.15pm. Unfortunately unable to meet Peter, as he was having his own problems. With Naxos authorities throwing all the normal boats who reside in the harbour out, while they prepare to let 300 motor boats visit over this weekend! And Diana who was suffering with a bad back at home.
As I write this Peter is at anchor in a little bay just south of Naxos, presumably with a lot of other locals, who are in the same situation.
We intend to arrive in Naxos, either tomorrow night or early Monday morning, when we hope order will have been restored. But this is Greece! So, don’t count on it.

NC

At 13.30 we weighed anchor, and set course for Koroni.
(Methoni and Koroni were known as “the two eyes” of the Serenissima Repubblica of Venice. Both fortress towns, they were staging posts on the route followed by pilgrims to the Holy Land, as well as by trading vessels travelling from West to East.)
We sailed along the ‘roadstead’ from one place to the other on a broad reach mostly. This is with the wind behind you. Over your shoulder, would be better, in a lovely force 3-4. As we neared the end of the roadstead after two and a half hours, we spotted four dolphins, making their way westwards, before we turned the corner and headed up to Koroni where we anchored in the bay amongst six other boats.
Koroni is a handsome place to see.
A large castle with it’s fortifications against the town which would have been constructed later, perhaps two hundred years ago, and most of the use of the castle grounds would be unused.
In the evening we sat watching from the cockpit. Then a dinghy approached from a boat called “Kings Ransom”. We had waved and exchanged pleasantries with them as they departed the anchorage at Methoni, and perhaps they remembered us. John and Amber said, just thought we would say hello as we went ashore. We invited them onboard, and two hours later after a few beers and wine, they gave up going ashore, and returned to their boat. It was then time for dinner, and we didn’t go ashore either!

Next day, Karen and I walked up to the castle fortress. (It had to be done!) And we found a large area behind a large wall similar to the one at Methoni. Except this time, we found that a few people were still living inside the castle fortress inside there little white washed houses. Further up the hill, we saw an impressive black wrought iron gateway, and a path that led to a chapel, fringed with beautiful flower borders. It was worth a picture. And as we walked up the path, and on, a whole new vista began to open up before us. We entered the chapel, and donned some cover up clothing, there to assist visitors. (Karen says I looked fetching in my wrap around skirt. But there are no pictures!)
Moving through the chapel and out into another even more delightful garden, we were met by a nun who although not speaking English, motioned to us that we could look all around the place, which we did.
It was all lovely, and an expanse of monastery properties within a walled enclosure. Or was it a nunnery? It was called a monastery, and built in 1918. Another nun beckoned us to enter another chapel. We walked to the top, and saw the whole place in its magnificence. Butterflies were in profusion, particularly amongst the lavender bushes.
A return to the front and we decided we had to contribute something. A little shop, with another nun. A book about “What is Orthodoxy?” and a cool cup of water from the fountain was enough. Karen wrote something nice about our visit in the visitors book, and we left having enjoyed the calmness and beauty of the place, and the nuns.
Quite an unexpected thing to see. And such a treat. We looked at some more inside the walled boundary and made our way down to the entrance again, pondering about life 300-500 years ago.
As we walked through the entrance, John and Amber were coming in to see too. They were in for a treat.
During the day, we found ourselves sitting on the waters front, drinking. It’s very hot, so it must done! Drinking and enjoying the company of John and Amber again.

On Friday 19 June, we set off early at 8.15am as we had a long way to go. Our plan was either Kayio a little bay off the middle finger of the Poleponnese or, if the weather allowed to reach the island of Elafonosis. A mixture of sailing and motoring, (usual days sailing) found us anchoring at 8.30pm in Sarakiniko Bay off Elafonosis island. It had taken us over twelve hours, but we were there now, anchored in sand, not far from the beach in a quiet place with three other boats there before us. (Italian, German and English)
Dinner and sunset combined to finish a good day.

June 20. My birthday. And it looked like we would make Monemvasia today, which we had hoped for several days earlier. The water was flat calm as we came through the Elafonosis Channel and turned around Ak Maleas. A place feared by sailors for its fearsome reputation of strong winds. Which according to the pilot book, at times, lives up to it. It was so good to go around on a quiet day. I take no pleasure in telling you about rough passages at all!
I called my Auntie Pat, as we share the same birthday, and enjoyed our conversation. It is so nice to share that special moment each year.
We finished the day sailing, as the wind did come up. But we were on a broad reach and it was an enjoyable sail into Monemvasia. The marina was full, and boats were rafted out. So we went all around the other side of the rock, they call the rock of Gibralter, and moored up stern to a concrete mole.
Dinner was in the same restaurant that Karen and I had visited once before, nearly six years ago! What a lot has happened since then! That was a trip in a charter boat with Paul and Chris and others.
We strolled down the hill and found our way into the grubby little town, quite different from being on the ‘Rock’. But couldn’t find an internet café and so went back to bed.

June 21. We departed Monemvasia at 7am, keen to get a good start for another long passage. Today we motored all the way, over 60 miles to reach Milos in the evening and we anchored at 6.03pm in the bay beside Adhamas, the main port and tourist centre of Milos. This is where the “Venus de Milo” came from! Now, as my Mum reminded me, in The Louvre in Paris.

Last night was awful. I was glad that we didn’t try and go into the harbour though! We experienced force 6 winds and a choppy swell, coming across the enormous bay, which is a caldera, just like Santorini. We were awake at 0145; 0200;0230;0345;0400;0645 and 0810 somewhat shattered. But in the harbour it would not have been any better, as we had seen the bumping about of boats when we entered the anchorage.

So, that’s it for now. I must get this ashore and find an internet to use.
We plan to have a quick trip ashore, and to return as it looks like we shall have another windy day for the next 24 hours at least.

Ah! So that's what I just thought. The wind has come up again, force 6. We cannot go ashore. Not because we can't get there, but in case we can't return!

10pm: Still blowing. And then two yachts decided to leave the quay, where it must have been untenable, and came and parked in front of us. In front! I ask you. There's a whole bay here. It's the fourth largest harbour in Greece, and they come and spoil our evening.

10.30pm: We go to bed, a little uneasy.

11pm: Karen suggests that we do watches, as we are just lying in bed thinking about those two boats.
I stick my head out of the sky light, and see a yacht a bit closer than it was before. And, casually ask Karen if she thinks it is closer too?
Karen takes a look and is surprised by my calmness, as the yacht has clearly dragged its anchor and is coming towards us, pitching and all over the place.
I grab the high intensity lamp to raise the alarm, but as I go on deck, I see that there are already people onboard who are panicking already, so I don't need too!
They take ages to recover themselves, and all the time, I'm worried that they will drag their anchor over the top of our chain, and put us into trouble.
But, thankfully, they don't, and they go away and anchor again. Guess where? Yes. In just the same place as before!!!!!!! Idiots.
We watch, and Karen stays up on deck to keep first watch.
The night passes by without any more excitement, and we get some sleep.

Tuesday 23 June: All is much more calm. But weather forecast warns of more southerly winds later. So we must get ashore. Bread; milk; and internet etc.

NC

NC

We left Zakinthos on Sunday, and in light winds motored to Katakolon.
Katakolon is the best place to reach 'Olympia' which is where we visited on Monday morning.
We caught the 8.30am train which was just across a car park from the harbour quay.
Olympia was a wonderful place to see. Where the Olympic flame starts from every four years and marks the beginning of each new Olympic Games.
Another long day motoring, brought us to Methoni on Tuesday, where we anchored in the bay below the castle at 3pm, together with several other yachts. A lovely situation. And at night we had a nice surprize to discover that the castle was floodlit. The evening sunset against the castle was a picture.
It's 11am and we have just walked to the Venetian castle as well as the Turkish light house/guard house which is situated on the end of the fortifications. 25 acres of castle grounds where the people used to live. 500 years ago. Now, mostly wild flowers, lizards and birds.
We are now watching for the weather windows that will allow us to travel across the Kithera Sea and on into the Aegean. It is looking interesting! Our next places to visit are Koroni, Kayio, Elephanosis island, Monemvasia, and across to Milos our first island in the Aegean.
NC & KC

Yes. We were able to calibrate the new course compass. Just off the end of the canal, southbound, we couldn¢t resist taking Janika in a few turns to calibrate the computer which, blipped and showed a deviation of just 1 degree. Then to our absolute pleasure we set off down past Nidri with autp pilot working well.

As we approached the end of the channel to the south side of Lefkada, we kept waiting for the wind to pick up. We could see it, but for a time it just didn¢t seem to want to move us onward. Then. At 3.30pm without warning, we must have cleared the headland which was screening the wind from us, and all at once we were away in a force 5, gusts to 6, on a mixture of close and beam reachs to Vathi on the island of Ithaca.
We didn¢t berth inside the harbour at Vathi though. We preferred to select a spot at the bottom of a large bay called O. Aetou in 6m of sand, and put down 30m of chain.
It was not a good night. The wind kept us bobbing around, and wouldn¢t settle down as usual. We had a disturbed night, put the anchor alarm on which is not used often, and then found we needed to charge up the batteries at 1am to raise the charge, that the battery alarm had used, presumably. Usually it¢s fine.

Next morning, still winds gusting all over, and we departed at 8.30am, recording over 30 knots of wind as we motored out away from Vathi, and down the eastern coast of Ithaca. Once clear we held on a broad reach with the wind over our shoulder in a force 5-6 and sometimes 7-8 across to Cephalonia. However, this was so much more pleasurable than yesterday and boat was kept near upright all the way along. Karen was pleased. Even to the point of suggesting ¡more sail¢!
As we entered the channel between Cephalonia and Ithaca the winds did build to gale 8 at times, and I was glad to have kept a modest sail plan flying. Even so, we were doing 6 knots on not a lot. Life Jackets were being worn, with harness clip-ons.

At 12.30pm we approached Poros, a little village on the south east side of Cephalonia, and, it happens quite often. A ferry was approaching, so we deferred to her, and waited until he was docked before entering in behind into the small harbour.

The winds did not make for a comfortable afternoon. It fact I felt a bit sea sick! But we were safe, and the forecast for the next 24 hours was force7 and we prefer not to go out in that if we can.
Dinner onboard was followed up by ice cream and coffee ashore, overlooking the harbour and inland sea from a nicely elevated position. Lovely.
Here, we met a couple, John and Ann who have a Nauticat 38, and were on their way to Corfu.

Next morning Saturday 13 June the wind was slight, the waves calm, and at 8am we picked up our anchor as we moved off the quay and headed for Zakinthos.
A perfect morning, because we needed to charge the batteries, make water to fill up the tanks and have an easy crossing, which we appreciated. Well, I did. I¢m not sure about Karen, because just lately she has been saying things like, “ shall we put more sail out?”!
I¢m obviously doing a good job at gently easing Karen into the winds this year.

Exactly four hours later we approached the quay at Zakinthos, and the mariinos took our lines and almost at the same time took 20 euros for our nightly stay. If cost relates to prestige, this would be a good stop. A posh stop! For Greece that is. (Someone told us the other day that they now charge 300 euros to park an average length yacht in Monaco per night! For that, I would want dinner with the Grimaldi¢s!!!!)

A quick trip ashore with directions from a couple, who just sailed in too, on a boat called “Stolen Moments¢ and we were off to get some fresh bread for lunch. And, a Telegraph. Always guaranteed to get the blood pressure raised, when reading about what our Government has done next. I had to smile at the ¡letters¢ article, by the chap who wrote,” One good thing is that, as I recently celebrated my 66th birthday, I am unlikely to witness another Labour government.”

It s now afternoon as I write this, (34 degrees this afternoon) and we are getting better at taking a siesta, at least Karen is. As she is asleep! It¢s really good if you can, and then enjoy the evening up to midnight like the Greeks, in the cool of the day.

I¢ll try that, and sign off. Until, the next time.

NC

On 4 June Karen and I decided we needed a break from Lefkas. We had done all we could about the parts needed for the boat, and as we couldn’t yet go to the Aegean and on to Turkey, we would do our own mini Ionian cruise.

So, we set off down the Lefkas Canal and at the bottom headed out towards the coastline of the mainland of Greece. Something a bit different.

Over the next few days we stopped in a little bay on the east side of Meganisi. Anchored all on our own, until a French boat stopped too. But knowing just around the corner, on the north side of the island would be dozens of boats jostling for position.
It is true in this world, that if you just take a few steps off the beaten track, or a couple of miles off the well marked seaway, that you can find your own, (or nearly your own!) quiet place to stay.

We stayed in the harbour at Kalamos, a delightful little village on the island of the same name. Once you left the harbour, you were faced with a very steep climb up to the village centre. On the morning after we arrived, we saw a lady, just out of puff, who sat on a bench on a level piece on the way up. Karen spoke to her, and took her arm, and we all continued up the hill together. We made a few stops, and although she didn’t speak English and we not Greek, we found out that she had recently had an operation on her leg, and suffered from asthma. Her name was Joulana, and she was 74 years old.
We said our goodbyes once by the shops and bought some bread from the bakery.
Another lady we met, had just returned from Canada. Many years ago she moved there, but retained her house in Kalamos, and came back every year. Not surprisingly, her English was good. She had just come out of the church, and said that there was a poor turnout that morning.

We walked along the road to see the old windmills, and on the way Karen found lots of wild thyme growing in the roadside. She couldn’t believe how prolific it was, and collected some for some future dinners onboard.

On the next day, Saturday 6 June, we anchored for lunch in One House Bay, on a small island called Atoko. It may have been one house, but when we arrived there were six boats too. But we had a nice lunch. Then moved on as the wind picked up, and there was clearly going to be no swimming there!
In the evening we anchored on the coast of Ithaca, site of many stories by Homer and his travels, as well as Greek Mythology.
The place was called Sarakiniko, and we were all by ourselves in the bay, with some people camping out behind the beach.
Again on the following day we travelled along the Ithaca coast, which was beautiful and green, and another night at anchor, this time in Pera Pigadhi. To reach the bay, by the shortest route we passed through a narrow gap between the island and a much smaller one, called Pera Pigadhi, and according to the pilot book, and a Frenchman we met a few nights before, the island had rats, and if you tied up alongside the pontoon there, the rats were brave enough to jump on your boat! That had happened to the man we had met. He and his wife heard the pitter patter of there feet across the top of the deck!
As we passed the island, there was a boat parked against the pontoon. Yes, youv’e guessed. A French boat. Perhaps they don’t have a pilot book like ours in French.
Despite this information, it was a lovely place. And in the evening we had a swim, and I took the dinghy out for a run to check over the outboard motor.
We also had another single boat with us across the bay, and surprisingly it was a German couple who had been berthed just three boats away from us in Lefkas a few days earlier.Nice couple, but why do they have to take off all there clothes and parade on deck like they are on display? Are we British just prudish, shy or just respectful? All I know is, that just like those singing accordian players who come round your table in a restaurant, I would pay money to stop them doing it! With very few exceptions.
There were lots of fish in this bay, and we noticed, because you don’t see many fish in Greece at all.

On Monday 8 June we had a look at Kioni by just turning around the bay, but the wind got up and we fancied a sail. So onto Frikes, not far and we tied up alongside here, and had lunch in a delightful taverna. The courgette fritters we had were just sublime! They consisted of courgettes (obviously), flour, breadcrumbs,feta cheese, eggs, parsley, salt and pepper and of course olive oil for frying. Amazing taste. We will take this recipe home.
The waiter looked like and sounded like Liam, who was on Coronation Street. Together with the jokes. (Yes, I know, but at least I admit it. Rather than be a closet corry watcher, and deny it) Anyway, what’s happening now?
An older couple sat down and we exchanged pleasantries. They were fro London, had satyed in Kioni in the same place for the last six years, and said that the taverna we were in was their favorite. So, we were lucky about that. Very nice.

Soon, we were off on our way, and a great sail on a beam reach in a force 5-6. Not much sail up, but doing 5 knots and Karen on the wheel. Fantastic. (Mums’ - That makes up for our little mistakes earlier when you were with us! I think we’ve got ourselves back now)

A last night in Dessimou, on Lefkada, not far from Vliko, across land, and we sailed and motored our way back to Lefkas, arriving lunchtime yesterday Tuesday 9 June.

Today 10 June, we got our salinity probe and our course computer back.
It seems that they have replaced the entire pcb, (printed circuit board) so we are hoping that our auto pilot worries are over. Tomorrow we shall calibrate it, and if all well, set off south down the Peloponnese.

Hope all well, and regards from Lefkas. I could complain about the soaring temperatures out here (30 – 37 degrees), but I know I’d get no sympathy!!

NC

3 June 2009.
It looks as if we shall be in the Ionian for longer than we intended. The course computer has now been sent off to Athens, as we need it to control the auto pilot. And, it may just be covered under its warranty, so better to get it fixed now, than later-on.
So, we shall arrange ourselves an Ionian cruise around these islands and wait for Raymarine to return our computer.
We have also had a malfunction of the salinity probe on our watermaker, so are waiting for that too. Apparently two years is the normal lifespan for that. They never tell you these things when you buy them do they!
The weather is still changeable. Clouds and soom rain. Last night a terrific thunderstorm.
We invited Nigel and Sue onboard for a coffee and wee dram last night. Their boat is directly opposite ours on the pontoon, and they had just come over from their home in Crete. Through conversation we found out that Nigel who was in the Royal Engineers before he retired, knew Trevor Clifton, the man who took Brian & I for out yachtmaster exam.
It's a very small world, sometimes.
NC

Thursday 28 May
We departed after saying all our goodbyes, and headed off down the canal, south towards Ithaca.
However, as we cleared the canal and passed the last buoys we set the auto pilot, so called 'smart pilot', which had caused us problems last year. And the boat set off in all directions except the one asked of it!
We pulled into Nidri and on to Vliko Bay where there is a large open bay which we knew would help our needs.
We spent much of the afternoon doing circles, while trying to recalibrate the fluxgate compass which is connected to its own computer, and hoped we could, by following the instructions in the manual, sort things out.
By evening we resolved to enjoy the bay, have dinner, and try again in the morning.

Friday 29 May
We tried again, and called up Raymarine in England for there advice. They did give some assistance, during the morning and we did some more circles, but to no avail. The deviation was showing 27 degrees, and wouldn't come off that number, no matter what we did. At one point we had everything close to the compass that might affect its working removed and stowed in the forecabin.
By afternoon, we had sailed our way out of Vliko Bay, Nidri too, and were sailing not far from Skorpios, looking for a lunch stop, as well as making water, because Karen thought something was wrong with the watermaker. (It never rains, but it pours!)
Anyway, another call to England, an Karen was on the wheel Jib up sailing on a broad reach, and I was head down under the bunk looking at five coloured wires and trying to take resistance readings. (At least I was happy that Karen was sailing the boat on her own, dodging other yachts, and standing on when necessary)
In the end it seemed that our compass might be faulty.
So......

Saturday 30 May

Here we are back in Lefkas. I have now removed the fluxgate compass and am going to compare the resistance readings with a new one in Vassilis's shop. But will have to wait for Monday to speak again to Jason in Raymarine, England.
Last night we had a storm. Rain, and more rain and thunder throughout the night as well as this morning too. It was so grey this morning that I thought we could be in England!
Now, it's lunchtime and the sun has reappeared. Not long in coming back in Greece.
On reflection, I quite enjoyed the cool of this morning! For a change.
NC

Sunday 24 May 2009

A quiet day. Well, I did change the oils in the engine and generator. But in the evening we made for Fotini’s ‘Vinaria’ taverna where Karen had arranged to meet Elizabeth Parker, or ‘Lizzie’ to her friends.
Lizzie wrote a book about her life on the Greek Island of Trizonia, in the Gulf of Corinth, where she ran a taverna with her daughter Alison. Alison sadly died and Lizzie gave up the interest in staying there. It is now up for sale.
We actually called in to Trizonia last year on our way back to Lefkas with Linda and Gordon.
Lizzie now 75, arrived just after 8pm and we ordered dinner. Skordilia (Garlic puree dip); peas and carrots, mushy; and fried cheese to start. Lizzie had sardines for main, Karen stuffed tomatoes with wild greens, and I had beef in tomato sauce.
I counted 6 half carafes of white wine during the evening. One was on the house.
And cherries afterwards, complementary.
The evening was interesting. Lizzie, smoking her way along told us about her Greek experiences, and the Greek people. There was no doubt that she did love them all, despite writing some plain things about their habits All true. Driving over double white lines as if they don’t exist; going to visit relatives in hospital, taking all food and drink along, and staying with them overnight because there is no one else to look after them. (Apparently there are no nurses in Greece. There are no GP’s either. You simply see a specialist and after the operation is done, you are on your own, or have help from your family. That’s it.) We have met English people who live on the island, who like the system. They pay 35 euros each visit to the specialist, and get treated quickly. No fuss, no receptionists, no GP; and no hassle..
As the evening wore on, and I was thinking, it would soon be time to go. Nothing could have been further from the truth! Mustafa arrive, a dark man, good tan, with several gold teeth and a happy friendly disposition. I thought about 60-65, but later found out he was only 6 months older than me!
It seemed that Mustafa knew Lizzie, (everyone does) and he sat down at our table very calmly as if it was his place, and he had just returned from the loo.
Mustafa was born in the Sudan, was a muslim, but he had escaped the Sudan during troubles and took his family to Syria, which is where they now were. He in the summer, worked on the charter boats in the marina. You can imagine that we had plenty to talk about, as Mustafa was what he called a ‘failed Muslim’, ( he helped to drink the wine, and ordered another carafe) he also regaled me with stories from his days on the ships after I let him know that I too had worked on the ships. Meanwhile Karen chatted easily with Lizzie.
It was some time before we said our thank you’s to Fotini and her family and made our way back to the boat. Lizzie drove home! We got home about quarter to one. Way past my bedtime, but an evening we shall not forget in a hurry!

Monday 25 May

Can’t remember what happened today. Not surprising!

Tuesday 26 May

This morning Karen and I went for our appointment with Antonia. Our dentist. And, a good one. After finding Verun in India we were so pleased to be able to find one in Greece.
One day, I know I shall meet an English dentist on a boat, and providing he has Mustafa’s temperament, I shall be able to tell him what I think about English dentistry. He’ll probably agree. But, it doesn’t help folk back home who have to deal with such a poor and expensive system.
Last year Antonia gave me some root canal work, and suggested that I get a crown when I got back home, because there wasn’t time to do it then. So, this year Antonia fixed me a new crown. She also did one for Karen, as well as remove an old bad crown and do a small filling.
Antonia charged us both a fixed price of 170 euros. If you have had a crown lately, I need say no more. Except add 400 pounds as well as the price of a hotel room for a few nights, and it would still be cheaper here.
Apart from being in Greece, what’s Antonia’s secret? Well, she is a one-woman dentist. She does the booking, (no receptionist) she places a sucking tube in your mouth, and carries out the dentistry.(no assistant). And, if you need teeth cleaning, guess? Yes, she does that too, (no hygienist)
You do have to get used to her speaking on her mobile phone while carrying out her work, as well as dealing with callers too. But, no problem to her. It all works beautifully.

Wednesday 27 May 2009

Today we pumped up the dinghy and painted some funny markings on the sides to be sure we could recognise her anywhere. Just a precaution we had read and thought we do it.
We are getting close to all jobs being completed and intend to depart tomorrow. You might expect the wind has just turned to the south. Just when I was looking forward to a nice sail downwind!

Not sure where the next Blog will be from. Might be Zakinthos.

NC

Friday 22 May 2009
An easy restful day today, to give Mums’ time to recharge, before their journey home.
However, in the event, we were twice accused by the mums’ of abandoning them during the day!
The first time occurred when Karen and I left them to an afternoon siesta, while we went off to buy two more fenders. ( bigger ones than present, because we have found that three each side can be a bit shorthanded when against some boats, and they will give us more protection)
Vassilis was our man, and he had also said that he would re-pressurise one fender which had lost it’s bounce. Well, you wouldn’t believe how long it can take to buy just two fenders! Vassiis was in a chatty mood! I think we were there with him, listening to his stories for an hour and a half at least. When added to another hour for getting an extractor pump we had ordered from CYS Chandlery, and some internet time, we returned to the mums’ who thought we had disappeared!
Then in the evening after dinner ashore at Seven Islands Taverna, we left the mums’ at a Hagan Daz for coffees to go and collect the car we had booked for the trip to Athens airport the next day. We had reckoned with the time that Gregorios would take to complete a simple hire agreement. But then, he was talking to us about everything else. Greek history, politics and why he came to Lefkada to live from Athens. In the end Karen had to leave me to finish off, and returned to retrieve the mums’ while I then took the car back to the marina. Mind you I nearly sent out a search party for them as I waited and waited for there return!
So, in Greece things do take a lot of time, but it is so nice to have such a social connection with these very friendly people.
Next morning we were up at 5pm. Well, the mums’ were sitting in the saloon all packed and ready to go! Very, impressive. We did drive out of the marina at just before 5.30am in the darkness and 6 hours later arrived at Veneizlos Airport and the mums’ checked in.
It had been a very enjoyable 10 days and we were delighted to share our experiences with our mums’. And to have them return home, without any knocks and bruises.
After we said goodbye at the security control, we commenced our 260 mile return trip to lefkada, and got back at 8.30 which included a shop in a supermarket on the way.
A good day, if a tiring one.
NC

20 May 2009

We did manage to follow the plan after all. And just added an extra stop by anchoring between the island of Maganisi and the much smaller island of Kothvos to the south for lunch.
The day was a typical day in Greece, blue sky gentle breeze in the morning. By afternoon the breeze did pick up as is usual too, and we sailed all the way up the east coast of Meganisi to the top, and found a delightful place in Abelike Bay, where we anchored for the night. It was busy all around, with boats moored up to olive trees and looked like they would be there for several days. Ours was just an overnight stay, so we just swung at anchor. Gradually. The evening night sky was free of all artificial lights and therefore a beautiful full bright sky, with no moon, but filled with stars.

21 May 2009

How the days are rushing by. Here we are on the last sailing day of the Supermums’ trip!
A lazy breakfast was followed by watching the few fish that were around, and also the lone fisherman, (probably well retired gent) who sculled along the side of the bank in his little boat that looked ever bit as old as he did. Looking for octopus? We wondered.
At 10.10am we weighed anchor, (nice phrase that) and Karen steered us out of the bay into the Ionian Sea where we crossed over, past Skorpios once again and on towards Nidri. Nidri was busy and we could not see an easy berth, so we went on to Vliko passing Tranquil Bay as we went. All lovely, and the water in Vliko Bay was ‘pea green’. Just like those tinned processed peas. I like them with fish and chips! I don’t know what made the water so green. Perhaps the surrounding hills covered in green vegetation. What else could it be?
In Vliko Bay we found a place to berth at the bottom. Well, a shop keeper was waving his arms to us of where to go. So, as you might expect, we bought some provsions in his store and he told us where we could find fresh bread at the bakery nearby. The girls took the chance of a short stretch of the legs. Very important because I was concerned that their bums were going to stick to the cockpit seats!
Lunch followed quickly, and then we motored our way out slowly past Nidri and out into the open sea.
By now it was 3pm and we were clear of Nidri and the afternoon breeze had arrived and we enjoyed tacking our way up towards the Lefkas Canal entrance. Probably the best sail of the week. Not too much healing, and we went on half genoa only and still reached over 6 knots, but mostly 5 knots tacking back and forth across the O. Dhrepanou until we reached the buoyed channel There was a force 5 , 18 knot wind pushing us along.
Once in the canal we motored up to Lefkas and docked in a moderate wind at 5.15pm.
The evening brought dinner onboard, with ice cream ashore planned.
But first we had to see if Doug & Bernie were in town to answer a question.
Doug & Bernie a lovely couple from Norwich live onboard their boat and have been in Lefkas since we arrived two years ago. They had told us of another couple that they are friends with who live in the same development as my Auntie Pat & Uncle Graham in Norwich. So we wanted to check the names again, to see if they are known.
We arrived by their boat and I shouted their names, and Doug’s head popped up out of the door opening. We were all invited onboard, and found it was a special day, because Bernie had that day collected a new puppy bitch, and it was her first night onboard. Named Chip.
Afterwards we walked over to the town centre and had ice cream.

22 May 2009

A walk into town for Edith to have her hair done, and Mum walked around looking for something to remind her of her visit to Lefkas.
We all met up at the Hagen Daz café were a drink was needed by all.
Edith’s hair was good, and she arrived looking like she had been given the Greek hairstyle. I wonder if it will stay?

Now I am writing this onboard before lunch. After which I’ll post it to the Blog.

Have you noticed, that it’s all eating and drinking?

NC

Monday 18 May

In the morning Karen and I went into town and made a few last minute purchases. Then topped with water and set off on our ‘cruising with our supermoms’.
We had a good canal transit seeing a pelican as well as fish jumping out of the water. I never know if another bigger fish is chasing them, or if they are after insects on the surface.
Once clear of the canal we set sail on a run, with the wind behind us. It was a lovely gentle sail, and as we neared Nidri on the coast of Lefkada the wind increased, probably coming he gap between the mountains. At one stage we were doing almost 6 knots. Further on we watched a small group of three dolphins pass by. They appeared to be small in size, possibly young ones.
Lunch followed and as the wind eased it made for a pleasant if uneventful occasion. Soon, matters changed quite differently, as the wind, which had been northerly, and then subsided to nothing became southerly and quickly freshened. Frankly we were caught off-guard. And had brief frantic moment getting ourselves sorted by shortening the mainsail, as well as the jib. We probably needed that moment to shake ourselves into remembering how the sails worked!
Afterwards we spent two hours tacking down the remainder of the passage between Lefkada and Meganisi. By 4pm we had had enough and motored our way into Sivota on the south side of Lefkada. Sivota is a pleasant well protected bay, almost totally enclosed off from the Ionian Sea, but Karen and I still remember the oily film that covered our dinghy bottom last time we were here, and the scrubbing off required afterwards! We think that because the bay is so well enclosed that it doesn’t allow the bay to clean itself out properly each day. However, most people think it’s lovely.
We chose to anchor in the middle of the bay with half a dozen other boats. The rest, around 50 were parked up stern on to the quay.
We like anchoring because it gives us a great panorama to see what’s happening; it is usually cooler as well. And it prevents some of the troubles that arise when parked up next to other boats, which are numerous!

Tuesday 19 May 2009

This morning we were off early at 9.30. Early for the ‘supermoms cruise’ that is.
Bound for Fiskhardho, which is a village on Kefalonia island. In fact it is noted because in 1953 there was an earthquake which destroyed 90% of the buildings on the island and the buildings in Fiskhardho survived virtually intact, because they are built on clay. And it was the sponginess of the clay, which took the shock of the quake and allowed the buildings to remain. So, there remain the 18th century Italian design buildings, which provide such a nice change to the mainly boringly designed modern stuff built elsewhere.
Little wind meant we motored, and that was good because we needed to charge the batteries and while travelling across the water Karen and I each had a hot shower onboard. (Hot, because the engine heats the water onboard).
Two and a half hours later and we pulled into one of the most delightful harbours in the Ionian. Past the Venetian lighthouse at the entrance and views of the pastel coloured houses bordering the harbour quayside.
We tied up to the quay with help from next door taking our lines and settled down to a hot afternoon (30 degrees) and watched the procession of boats entering the harbour and tying up in all the multifarious that they do!
We had a walk around the quay, and ventured inside the backstreets but it didn’t take long. All very pretty, but perhaps a little too much ‘prepared for tourists’ and not too much natural as we like it. But it has to be seen, and the harbour is very nice.
Peter and Brigitte arrived by surprise in the afternoon and invited us onboard for tea at 5. The supermoms then went for a walk about. With a little coercion, as I was concerned that they were getting ’boat-bound’ having not been ashore for two days!
Now we prepare to walk ashore for dinner, so I must get changed a bit.

We enjoyed a pleasant dinner ashore in a taverna, in which the family have lived for years and years, and named after the family name. Tselenti.

Wednesday 20 May 1000am

We bought fresh (hot) bread from the bakery, and had breakfast onboard.
Already it's very hot. Some boats have departed, and we shall as soon as I return to Janika.
Fortunately, we have found a wifi connection outside a local bar.
Today, the plan is to sail around the northern coast of Ithica, (The same one that 'Homer' travelled. No. Not that one!)
Then we shall pass up the east coast of Meganisi, and find a nice bay to anchor in for the night. Dinner will be onboard tonight. And, it's usually the best place.
Well, that's the plan. Lets see how close we can get to it! And, importantly! Always have a back up plan too.
NC

So, now we are back in Lefkas!
We departed the marina yesterday morning, and made our way down the Lefkas Canal, south towards Meganisi. After passing Skorpios, which the Onassis family own, we pulled into Spartakhori, and closed on the quay. Where a man, whilst being polite, did all he could to persuade us away, and suggested Little Vathi. He clearly had berths already identified for a group of boats later on.
Unperturbed 10 minutes later we turned a headland and Little Vathi came into view.
(We had already discovered when preparing the anchor for Sparakhori that our windlass was not working! Something was amiss, and we realised that some manual effort would be required before it was fixed!)
We backed onto the main quay, and laid 30 metres of chain, and tied up. A very hot day, in calm weather. We had actually motored all the way.
Our position to the quay was hampered by ballast alongside the quay, and as the rudder was scraping it we moved away from the quay a little to give more room underneath. However, I was concerned in case the wind blew up, and a chop developed inside the harbour.
In the end, I needn’t have worried and, a good night was spent by all.
The girls went ashore for a walk after dinner while I stayed onboard.
Little Vathi is a pleasant village, quite small but with enough facilities for a boat stop.
This morning we decided to return to Lefkas, so we could sort out the windlass.
Another motoring passage, and we took a turn around the other side of Skorpios on our way back.
Back in the marina, we took a trip ashore and had lunch at Fortini’s. A very pleasant couple of hours was spent, including trying out some rather tasty calamari, and red and white wine. It was a quiet afternoon.
Thankfully with Vassilis’s help of a new control, I managed to fix the windlass problem.
Now, a game of scrabble is about to start, so I am, by necessity going to close, and look forward to a new start tomorrow. Perhaps off to Tranquil Bay.
NC

Just visited the Port Authority to check in our Greek transit log. The official took copies of several details including my sailing licence, and mellowed when I explained we had our mums' omboard. They are more respectful of family here.
Just need to collect fresh bread, post mum's post cards and after breakfast we shall be off. First stop will be Spartakhori on the island of Meganisi.
Yesterday was spent around town and in the marina, resting and letting mums' get their bearings.
Both are very well, and have about mastered the loo omboard! Showered this morning in the Marina showers. Good job, before they get too wiffy!
Will send next report as internet availability allows.
Little wind today. Looks like we shall be motoring.
Best wishes to all. NC

Edith and Joan arrived yesterday, by British Airways at 6.08pm at Athens Venezilos airport. A few minutes late, but thankfully were not affected by a four hour strike by Greek air traffic controllers earlier in the day.
It appears that Athens city centre was closed today, because of a demonstration by a lot of Greeks about ‘pension concerns’. (Sounds familiar? Perhaps we should do the same!) But, I’m not sure if the air traffic controllers strike was also for the same reason.
So, all inside the hire car by 7pm and on our way out of the airport campus made Karen and I very pleased indeed. You will appreciate why, when you realise that we then had a 260 mile journey to Lefkas. About 6 hours travelling.
We made a planned stop after about one and a half hours and stopped at the Corinth Canal for a drink and some chips. (Living the high life already!)
The Corinth Canal was, as it is, magnificent to see. Although it must be said, the surrounding area is a bit scrappy. A few eateries, and some car-parking. If we had such an impressive engineering sight in Britain, we would make more of it, I’m sure. However, there is a certain Greek cache that can only be found here, and maybe the relaxed look is typically being Greek!
As we journeyed along the coast of the Gulf of Corinth, we could see the sea so calm and inviting. But as the darkness approached headlamps were deployed and we found that they were not set properly, and were pointing at the other carriage way. Consequently, oncoming traffic gave me plenty of flashing beams because they thought our main beam was on. But it wasn’t! It was quite a pain. This exchange of flashing beams continued for an hour, before I decided the best way to deal with it was to avoid. But what did surprise me, was that the Greeks, continued to flash flash flash, without stop. Perhaps they are not so relaxed after all!
At a quarter to one in the morning we pulled into Lefkas and parked in the marina.
Relief! All here safe and sound.
A drink and preparation for bed, and by 1.45am we were in bed.
NC

I was right, it has nearly taken a week to do all the jobs! Here we are at 7.30pm on a Sunday night. I can hardly believe it.
Just for the record, those jobs included:-
Putting the jib on the forestay. (Called bending-on)
Fitting the impeller into the Generator.
Changing the whole of the engine fuel filter assembly, from the Delphi fitted by Najad to a new one called Racor. We are hoping that it will help us combat the diesel bug we caught last year. It allows you to change the filter whilst under way; easier to replace and has a glass bowl so you can see any contaminants stored. If I say so myself. I never thought I was up for it! My mate Brian will be amazed when he reads this too.
Oh! We have given the new filtration unit a name, like all good parts on Janika. She is called Phoebe. Don’t ask. Karen’s idea! (Karen says, “Because she’s a sophisticated lady”.)
Fitted a new battery measuring device. Apparently, conventional meters, don’t take account of the way in which a battery bank discharges and over time loses its capacity to hold a charge. Whereas this one does.
So, we shall see! In particular, I’ve been thinking about the lifespan of the batteries, and thought this new measuring system would help us to understand how long our batteries might last.
This is really a ‘boy thing’, talking about batteries, and even I am getting tired with it. So, apologies to the girls.
Re-installed two battens in the mainsail.
Serviced the two biggest winches, and replaced the armsprings.
Apart from lots of cleaning and polishing, by Karen, and numerous other things that never get mentioned, but are all important, that’s it.
We still have to service the outboard motor. Stow away the boat cover. Harder than it sounds, because it’s enourmous, and needs a clean.
Truth is, that you are never finished doing work on a boat, but we’re getting there.

Outside Janika, what’s been happening?
Well, Vasillis is still here, minding his chandlery shop with the help of Rania. Seems to be more moaning this year. “Prices in Greece are too high. And not enough customers”. I was pleased to see that antifouling paint was the same price in Vasillis’s shop as last year. (It should be with the benefit of the euro against the pound!) But it is true that euro prices do seem to have gone up generally.

Spiros, our marina manager, says that Greece is the only country that supports Turkey coming into the EU, because they would be forced to raise there prices and Greece would be more competitive.
The marina is not as busy as it was same time as last year. There are more charter boats lying in the marina unused. I heard an Irish chap say that he had booked through ‘latesail.com’ to book his boat this morning. So, obviously some deals to be done.

We have watched the weather with interest this last week. And noticed the calm start to the days with little wind, and then at around 1pm the wind increases and lasts till about 7pm, when it starts to ease off.
This is the classic Ionian wind which appears to be working normally!
However, the sunshine has been a little late this year, and we have had several showers of rain. But it now seems to be coming good.

Lefkas town is still buzzing. With building, new and renovation work taking place.
Since Karen and I arrived three years ago, we have watched Lefkas develop, and have not been surprised to see it doing so. It is such a friendly and vibrant little town.

We made a return visit to Antonia our dentist for a check up, and I have an appointment for a new crown which I have needed since last year.

We bade farewell to John and Jenny this week, after having them onboard for a pre-sail dinner the night before. They are onboard ‘Sovereign of Chichester’ and are sailing to Turkey. We hope to meet up with them later in the season. Although it might be next year, as they are heading to Bodrom and points east, and we are heading further north.

Off to post this Blog and get an ice cream. Mind you, it’s getting cold, so I might have something warm!
Regards to all,
NC

2.40pm and we are tied up in our berth. Hooray.
Since the last Blog, we’ve been busy. Janika has been antifouled; the propeller has had the full treatment, down to a polish and being fully greased. That was the last job we managed to do, and only with the benefit of the local ‘B&Q’ where we found a suitable grease gun.
While this work has progressed we have been serenaded by a colony of frogs in a waterway beside the hard, which appear to be having there mating season at the moment. They are very loud, and croak there way through the night as well as day. All I can say is that now I know why frogs generally appear so benign the rest of the year. It’s because they are knackered!
There have also been other noises going on. Like an hourly drive by the van advertising the circus which is in town. Sounding louder each time they pass. Maybe they think they will shout us into the big tent, which sits next to the grubby car park, on the edge of the town shops.
We have been assisted by and assisted ourselves, the growing number of people who are arriving now that May has come.
Just across from us was Peter and Jane onboard ‘Magic Elfin’.
Next door Bill and Irene onboard ‘Kleopatra’. Bill from Geordie Land, always ready with a quick wit.
The removal of Janika from the hard and into the water, was about as traumatic as we would expect. Thankfully, no more than!
The crane arrived to lift Janika away from the boat next door, as the boats were too close for the travel hoist to move between us.
This is the particularly nasty bit, as the crane lifts the boat with a single wire attached to four spreaders. So, once lifted off the cradles, Janika was suspended in the air on one single wire, and moved into position by a Greek marina man pulling on a rope from the front to steer clear of any obstructions.
This is the point when Karen is usually jumping around and vocalising a lot. Having learnt from this experience, Karen was already, wisely away across the other side, keeping out of the way.
However, I was there, and not happy when I saw, with others, the crane’s top pulley getting caught around the boats topping lift.. But, it soon passed, and Janika was moved into position over the travel hoist.
Once there, things were more predictable. Karen had now returned and we followed behind the travel hoist, through the dockyard.
Once Janika was eased into the water, we climbed onboard, and prepared to leave. The engine (Eddie) started first time. Great.
Soon clear of the quayside, we were motoring away, around the outside of the marina to find our berth.
How lovely it was to be travelling through the water again. Only a few minutes, but it rekindled all our warm feelings about being onboard Janika.
Once moored, I bent on the new flags we had brought with us. So now Janika is sporting a brand new Greek courtesy flag; and new CA flag, and a new and very smart (no expense spared) Red Ensign.
Now that work on the hard has finished, we have to commence another list of jobs. Probably, another week’s work.
So we will be ready for our special guests on the 14th. Our two Mum’s!

NC

Today has really been all about polishing. We had a good nights sleep, and when I woke up, I had every intention of finishing polishing the hull by lunchtime, and then doing the antifouling. It was so easy there, laid in bed, dealing with all the chores. Once up, things took longer than I thought.
From 9am till 4.30pm just polishing. I visited the chandlery afterwards, and chatted to a Dutchman on the way back, and told him what I had been doing, and felt very lucky.
A good day.
Karen has been busy too, with all sorts of tasks. And now we shall eat onboard, and go ashore afterwards, as they say, for pudding. Probably ice cream.
NC

Right now, it is pouring down with rain at 8 o’clock in the evening. We have just had a storm pass nearly overhead, (I got down to 2 elephants, between the flashes and the clap of thunder), and Karen ‘bless her’ is cooking a chicken stir fry in a blackbean sauce.
So, as you can see, everything is fine.
We arrived in Athens on Sunday late afternoon, took the bus into town, about 1 hour, and after asking several people the way, with some conflicting opinions, we arrived at a little hotel called Erechthion in Plaka. A place someone recommended, we think it was Peter & Brigitta, but not certain. Anyway, for a nights rest, and an early (6am) start, it was all we wanted. A 50 euro room with a 250 euro view! The view of the Acropolis and accompanying buildings were amazing. And the best we have ever seen them.
The bus did have spare seats, and we left onboard at 7am. Arriving in Lefkas at 12.45pm.
There were a couple of things that I realised I had missed since leaving Greece last October, of which I was quickly reminded of on the way. First the way in which grown men, (if there is such a thing.) play with there worry beads. Flicking them backwards and forwards across there hand, to the irritation of everyone else. And, then when they stop that. Falling asleep, and snoring like nothing else, head back and mouth wide open. Not a pretty sight!
Thankfully, there are lots of redeeming features about visiting Greece, which far outweigh these minor matters.
On the remainder of Monday, we did a little preparation, but not much. We were ‘bus lagged’.
Today, we removed the cover off Janika, and started to polish the hull. Visited Vassilis, and spent 295 euros, mostly on antifouling paint, in his chandlery. He even gave us a good discount, certain that we would return for more. I’m sure he is right.
Now, after a shopping trip, and dodging the rain, we are about to enjoy Karen’s beautifully prepared dinner. So I will bid you goodnight.
NC

Karen and I enjoyed an overnight stay with Mike & Helen in Somerton, and returned yesterday afternoon.
We missed an earlier invitation to see them as I was 'suffering' as I seem to have quite a bit this year. Men will understand I know! But it was so good to visit and we poured over the charts we took out, together with the Turkish Pilot Book, and Mike gave lots of tips on where to go along the Turkish coast, while Helen scribbled notes in the Pilot. I so love seeing those little notes, when we are out and about. As they not only remind us of points of interest, but also that we are on this journey will other like minded people, and we can all add to each others experience.
A quick pub lunch and we were away home to prepare for dinner!
Dinner tonight with Karen's Mum, Edith and her Auntie Doreen and of course Barry.
We made a small toast in Memory of Dan, who left us just one year ago today.
How quickly a year passes by.
NC

Time is drawing near now, for our flight to Lefkas on Sunday 26 April and the commencement of this years cruise.
Most of the equipment we want to take with us is here, ready to go. Just waiting for a Turkish flag and 'Q' flag which is a must when arriving in Turkish ports.
Oh. And we need to collect another folio of charts, for the north east Aegean area, as it now looks like we shall be wintering in Ayvalik next October, which is further north than we have charts for at present.
Our plans are slowly coming together. We now have a finish point of Ayvalik to add to our start, and also we intend to stop off in Naxos to see Peter and Diana on the way across.
The in-between part, is as yet only vague. But can now be worked on. And briefly will include a passage down the west side of the Peloponnese, along the bottom and then probably up the east coast as far as Monemvasia, and then across the southern Aegean Sea visiting all the numerous little Greek islands which we missed last year, and so want to see. The across via Naxos to Turkey. And that's the bit we're not sure of. But know we will end up in Ayvalik.
If all goes well, and our application to join the East Med. Yacht Rally (put EMYR into your search engine!) is successful, we shall be well placed to join that in April 2010!
So, not much to think about then!!!!
Bye for now. Nigel

24 September - 2 October
Winterizing works commenced at a pace. And second time round we found some things a little easier, and did some things that we hadn't done before.
Perhaps the single best thing which we learnt, was that in future we will get a local company on the marina to remove, wash and pack our sails. It is so difficult to do, on the pontoon!
Time again to renew our friendship with Peter and Brigette, a charming couple, who apart from having a much bigger Najad than us, are rather nice! (That should make Peter laugh!)
3 October
We moved Janika gently out of her berth, and filled up the diesel tanks, all in the pouring rain.
Then, manoeuved her into the collection point where the crane lifted her up, the lads sprayed her bottom, and took her to the resting cradle beside the perimeter fence. Her place for the winter.
I think we spent three nights onboard, finishing off the work, and putting the cover on, before we boarded a plane at Preveza this time for our flight to Athens, and then home.
Goodnight Janika.

Tuesday 23 September
Vathi is a very picturesque harbour. It is oval in shape with a small entrance at one end, a little island in the centre which was once a jail and the reflections of pastel coloured houses line the edge of the harbour, making it definitly photograph material. In fact, I think it's better seen from a boat than from the shore. A lot of places have that characteristic!
Anyway, as we departed, we saw a turtle swimming along, looking like turtles do. Not a care in the world. Lovely.
And would you believe it? That out in the sea we saw dolphins. And then while parked up, (technical term) anchored I mean, just off Skorpios island that the Onnasis family still own, (name dropping)a kingfisher! We had lunch there. Not a bad days natural history passing by.
15.00 Rather sad now, because we commenced on our last leg of the trip, and of the year. Up to the Canal and on to Lefkas. Very pleasant though. I had to wave frantically to a Najad owner as we approached the Canal entrance. Not because of anything 'navigational', but because he clearly hadn't recognised that 'we were on a Najad too' and, just like morgan's passing on the road, there are so few of us around, that we wave to each other! It's important you know. Now you know that I'm showing clear signs of being an 'anorack', and it is time to either put me in a straight jacket, or pack me off home.
At 17.00 we arrived in Lefkas.
Dinner was at the rather nice Italian restaurant which overlooks the main quay as well as the marina in Lefkas. So you are always sure to see something interesting. Linda and Gordon treated us to a lovely meal. The end of another great trip, and one 'yes, I'm still being a little sad", because it marked the end of our sailing year in Greece.
I remember us commenting together, that if someone had said to us,"sorry but you have to stay on another month". We wouldn't have minded a bit.
I remember the same feeling last year (2007) after we arrived, having travelled all the way from Sweden. That I said, if someone had said,"now you have to take Janika all the way back again"! We would have said OK.
To still feel like you could carry on, after being onboard for 6 months, says a lot about this way of life. And a lot about us together.
Wednesday 24 September
After breakfast we accompanied Linda and Gordon to the bus station, and said our farewells. It's a smart new bus station now. Recently built. But it doesn't make the goodbyes any easier!

Monday 22 February
Still raining this morning, but after a bacon and egg breakfast the clouds cleared and we weighed anchor at 10.12. We enjoyed a nice approach around the top of the island of Ithaca. It takes longer than you expect, because as you proceed along and around the island, you think you are about to see the entrance, but the large left hand turn is bigger than you realise. Then. As we did see Vathi harbour open up before us, an unusual sight. A seaplane was coming towards us! Some way off at first, but as Gordon moved janika steadily to starboard, the seaplane saw we were clearing her takeoff line, and opened both throttles and gently but noisily took off beside us. I've got some great pictures!
We tied up in Vathi harbour on the island of Ithaca in sunshine at 15.10, after a very pleasant sail. The first full day in the Ionian Sea. And we noticed a lot more yachts about. 20-30 at least.
We took a trip ashore, and lunch was a long time coming. So much so, that Karen was saying, "We'll have nibbles for tea, with ice creams afterwards."
Ithaca is the stuff of Homer and Greek Mythology. It is another place for us to remember for another visit.

Sunday 21 September
Despite agreeing to a 07.00 start, we all failed! I awoke at 07.20 and within 15 minutes we were anchor aweigh, and on our way. We had a long way to go, and to see Navpaktos on the way would make for a long day too. But, I was keen for everyone to see the Town which was described in the Pilot Book as having a charming Venetian harbour, and sounded like a great place to stop.
By 10.00 we had dropped anchor, and launched the dinghy.
We drove into Navpaktos and a nice little Welshman took our line as we approached the quay. I'll say no more about this man, who was probably lonely. We had met him in Glaxhidhi, and lets just say. Anything you, or anybody else has done, he has done too, but twice as fast, high, large, and better!
We walked through the Town and on up a high series of hill paths towards the castle at the top. We made it halfway, maybe more, but decided the top would have to wait for another time. As we were running out of time!
A coffee and cake each, and back to Janika. A place to visit again. Just an old fella once said to me. "Done a bit, and left a bit." Not a bad way to go through life perhaps?
At 12.50 I called up the controller on the Rio Bridge. A massive suspension bridge that spans the entrance of the Gulf of Corinth. He asked us to call him again when we were 2 miles off.
Half an hour later I called him, and he said we could proceed through under the central span. Another 40 minutes and we were directly under it. We sailed beautifully all the way on a broad reach, and on towards Oxia in a force 5. The wind moderated at 17.00, and at 19.48 we anchored in North Bay Oxia.
We all enjoyed a couple of nightcaps after dinner of meat balls. And the rain sent us to sleep. zzzzzz

Wednesday 17 September
A lovely bright sunny day. Several sets of church bells woke us up at 06.00. Not very melodic - more like a group of tin cans.We started gently, but later on a strong breeze came up, and in no time we were racing along at 6 knots. We anchored in Ay Marina a place on the north coast of Aigina. There was an impressive temple high up on the hill which was very special, but not the right time for us to find out.
At 17.00 we departed, believing that the wind had moderated. But during our passage we had 30 knot winds, mostly on the nose, which reduced our speed and we finally anchored in O.Pernis on N.Salamina. A better place from which to head for Corinth. Dinner was pasta, tuna and sweetcorn.
Thursday 18 September
We awoke at 05.00 to a calmer setting. Thanks.
A piece of fishing line was caught around our anchor cable, but soon cleared and we on our way towards the Corinth Canal on a bright sunny day. There were a few other yachts making there way out to the cananl also.
12.30 We tied up alongside the entrance to the Canal, and Gordon and Karen went off to pay 156 euros for our 3.2m transit. 49 euros per mile!
12.55 We were asked to proceed through the Canal along with half a dozen other small boats. No ships. And the view of the cut through was wonderful. Absolutely wonderful. By 13.50 we were clear of the western end of the Canal, and making our way out into the Gulf of Corinth and on to Andikron, a place we identified on ther northern side which would give us a good start through the Gulf.
18.35 We tied up stern-to in Andikron. A small village at the end of a secluded bay, with a delightful lighthouse on the end of the breakwater.
19 Friday September
08.00 Reveille from the barracks at the end of the town. Milk and bread ashore, from some friendly people and, after breakfast we departed. Wind was fresh and we sailed gently through the Kolpos Andikron at 3 knots on a broad reach.
At 15.00 we tied up in Galaxidhi harbour. A delightful place with plenty of newish quayside, with many boats moored. We parked up close to a large barge, and later four youngsters from the barge stopped by our stern. We found out that they were part of a theatre company called The Caravan Stage Company, a Canadian Charity set up to give young people exposure to performing. The barge had travelled all around Greece and was now preparing to finish off here and prepare for the winter break.
Later that evening we did watch the show they put on for half an hour. It was quite dramatic. But the thought of a promised apple pie and ice cream was too much to compete with, and we disappeared in the night.
Saturday 20th September
Rain welcomed us his morning. Can't complain, as it's only the fourth time we've had rain in five months.
The Coastguard had told us to leave in the morning, because the President of Greece was attending in the afternoon, to unveil a new monument to mark the very special work that the fishermens wives had carried out during the war. This knowledge all explained the range of activities that were going on during the previous night, with people in traditional costumes and dancing./ No doubt practicing for today's visit.
11.10 We departed after bacon and eggs.
17.15 Arrival and anchored inside the harbour at Nisos Trizonia, just outside "Lizzies" taverna, a place closed and for sale now, but one we had heard about in Lefkas. We had sailed all the way and that is quite unusual. There is usually some motoring involved.

15th September
A morning spent with Gordon and we bought a new anchor coupling, but no one had any Anderson winch parts. So, we motored around to Kalamaki Marina and Karen and Gordon found just what we wanted.
By 18.00 we were hovering in Aigina Harbour, but couldn't find any suitable place to berth. So we anchored in a bay north on Nisos Moni, close to Aigina Island.
Overnight was uncomfortable as the swell built up from the north unexpectedly. At 07.00 Karen and I took Janika round the south side of the island and anchored in 10m of water. Breakfast followed a swim. I saw hundreds of small light brown fish. Back on deck. Linda exclaimed,"something was overboard!" (Gordon, had earlier moved 'Big Buoy" aside to keep it away from the swimming platform, and his knot had loosened). Karen, complete with her clothes on, could not see a £50 fender go missing. So she dived in with the fender drifting away from us, and recovered it.
If you have seen how slowly Karen dips her feet into the water normally, you would have been as surprised as me!
We weighed anchor, and Gordon took us to Poros, via an anchorage in Russian Bay for lunch.

Saturday 13th September
At 06.50 we commenced raising the anchor after waiting for the light and twilight to clear. Lots of ferry movements here, and plenty of rocks made us play safe.
07.00 Anchor aweigh. Wind - Light Airs with a glassy surface.
07.10 P & D called us up on mobile and we waved to them at their hotel bedroom window.
With little wind, fog came over us and we put the radar on at 10.15.
10.45 We saw 'Blue Star Paros' ferry at just 1.5m distance at 30 knots. With our boat doing 6 knots, that's an approach velocity of just 2.5 minutes!
11.00 Visibility improved a bit, and N.Serfopoula Is. 5m fine to starboard.
During the afternoon, we decided that good progress was being made, and we continued on to anchor close to Nisos Gaidhouroniso the mainland at 20.50. I had to change anchors to get a good hold. And Hercules did it first time.
Sunday 14th September
We arrived in Zea Marina near Athens at 13.00 on a bright sunny day.
At 16.30 we met Linda and Gordon at the bar.(Funny, because that's where we met them last year!)
In the evening we walked right around the circle of the Zea Marina had a light meal, followed by an ice cream on the way back. (Can't think who suggested that!)
Monday 15th September
Today was about spares. In the morning Gordon and

'That week' in September last year was definitly one to remember. Or maybe to forget!
Anyway, we missed completing our Blog. So, this is it. The final four weeks of our Grecian Travels.
Friday 5th September 2009
When I realised the anchor had dropped off the end of the chain, I plotted the yacht's position on the chart plotter, just in case we could return and recover it.
Then we motored out of the bay and headed for Naxos, and to meet up with our friends Peter and Diana. Or, as you will discover later, "Hansel and Grettle".
I spoke to Peter my mobile on our way, and he had saved a berth for us, with 'lazy lines'. These would save us using the anchor, which was good, because - we didn't have one!
At 12.45 we tied up stern to the quay in Naxos harbour, where Peter helped with the mooring lines ashore. It felt quite at home.
In the evening we dined with Peter, Diana and there friends from England, Peter and Jane and two daughters, who were staying. Spag.Bog.Very Good.
We stayed in Naxos for a whole week. I serviced Eddie (The Engine)with Peter assisting. We watched the weather which like the last time we were in Naxos, was too uncomfotable to depart. Some charter boats did leave, as they had schedules to meet, and we watched them crashing into the waves as they cleared the breakwater, and headed out to sea. It just confirmed our feelings that we were better off in harbour! All snug and safe.
More maintenance carried out; watching new boats berthing in the harbour with strong winds made for an interesting and hairaising spectical, and meals with Peter and Diana onboard or out at one of the many restaurants that they knew, made for a delightful stay.
Friday 12th September
We had beed talking about our 'lost' anchor (Hercules) and had bought a cheap copy from Nikos at the chandlery to give us some potential. But we really would have liked Hercules back.
Peter said that he thought he would be able to dive the 8-9m depth to recover the anchor, and offered to join us onboard Janika, and then said we could drop him off at Paros, on our way back towards Athens where we planned to rendevous with Linda and Gordon. And that's what we did.
We departed Naxos 10.17 on our minor adventure. Arriving at the bay between Despotiko and Antiparos at 12.45 we dropped anchor. Our un-named one.
Peter and Karen donned snorkels and I took the dinghy. After a bit of looking around, Peter found the anchor, Hecules lying on the seabed, not far from where we had anchored. (Thank you chartplotter!) Using his technique of clearing the air from his ears Peter dived down and secured the anchor onto the rope and I heaved it onboard the dinghy. All done by 14.15. Fantastic. Well done Peter, and welcome back Hercules.
Lunch followed, and a well earned break by us all.
16.10 we headed for Paros Town where we had arranged to meet up with Diana. Diana, had taken the ferry across from Naxos to Paros.
A lovely sail with some motoring around the south and west sides of Paros was very enjoyable, and the approach to Paros Town through several large rocky outcrops made for a scenic trip.
We anchored with our un-named anchor as we had not cahnged them over, and paid the price, because it took three attempts to make the anchor take hold. Lots of weed in Paros harbour.
Once Janika was secure, we quickly got ready and made our way ashore by dinghy, meeting Diana as we arrived at the quayside, and tied up.
A very tasty dinner was enjoyed by all. As well as a look at the Cathedral with 999 doors. Apparently, the priest knows where the 1000th one is!
We said our goodbyes to Peter and Diana, and thanked them for making our summer in the Aegean more memorable than ever.
Saturday 13 September 2009
We awoke with the alarm at 06.00, after only 5 hours sleep. Late night last night.

Monday 1st September
Still here in Rafti, riding out the winds, which are gusting up to 39.4 knots at one point. Most of our anchor chain is out and we are swinging, but more importantly we must have a good hold, and we have such faith in our anchor. We have 50 metres of chain out and we are rolling around in a heavy swell.
We have noticed the temperature has dropped over the last few days making it much more comfortable all round. At 12 noon it was 27.3 degrees in the cupboard where the barometer and thermometer is, previously it has been in the early 30’s.

Tuesday 2nd September
0700hrs, the wind has dropped overnight as is fairly usual, still an uncomfortable swell but we think if we can get out quickly we should make the 10 miles to Lavrion port where we can take stock and decide where to go next, we thought possibly Sifnos if the weather moderates nearer the Athens area. The wind will be behind us, which will help our decision.
After a quick cup of tea we weighed anchor at 0750 hrs. The swell was worse outside and the wind strength was a F4 gusting 5 as we rounded the point at Rafti, put a little bit of main sail out to give us some stability and proceeded. Unbelievably, the wind just kept strengthening, as did the swell. The motion was quite horrible and we were fully kitted up with lifejackets and clipped on. At one point we heard a cough and splutter from the engine and attributed it to the rolling motion. (We thought it was a noise made as the cooling water escaped from the exhaust, and as the exhaust pipe went beneath the water line on each role. But it wasn’t!) We were about 4 miles north of Lavrion and the winds by this time were F7 gusting 37 knots which is a F8 when we heard another cough and splutter from our engine and then nothing! I think we both went into shocked silence, me especially as I had little comprehension of what we would do next. Nigel was obviously assessing everything in his head. We continued on our broad reach, with the wind almost astern, and Nigel talked through our situation. (It does help me to hear him talk about things.) He explained that we were alright, we were sailing safely, and that he wouldn’t do anything that would place us into danger. Great! For another 20 minutes or so, we sailed along in this Force 7 wind, called a ‘yachtman’s gale’ usually, because for a yachtie a 7 is as bad as an 8 in a bigger boat. Nigel said that we would try and sail into a small bay ahead on the right, and drop anchor, so that we would be safe, and could try and sort out the problem with the engine. Easy!!!!!
Anyway, we managed to move from a broad reach to a beam reach as we turned gradually towards the bay. Nigel explained also, that if it didn’t work, we could go on to Lavrion, and if that didn’t work, we could sail to Crete until the storm blew itself out! Thankfully, we were not on a lee shore, with the wind pushing us onto the land, but were sailing along the coast, between the mainland and an island. In fact, it was probably the squeeze between the two pieces of land that was raising the wind force. As Nigel progressively turned Janika towards the bay, she heeled over more and more, because the wind was pushing on our side. (I’m much calmer telling you this now, than I felt at the time.) Then, I asked how long it would be before we got there. Nigel said he wasn’t sure, and that we should be prepared to drop anchor when required. I went forward and prepared everything up front. Funnily enough, not asking too many stupid questions, because I knew Nigel was concentrating, and this was serious. Except, before Nigel said drop anchor, I did ask how we were going to stop, and also, when he did say, “drop anchor” I exclaimed, “but we’re heading straight for the rocks! Nigel furled the jib sail, and headed up to wind. (Which I found out later, is how you stop the boat.) We held our breath hoping it would bite and hold us steady which it did thankfully. It was about 1000 hrs. All this excitement, and it’s only 10am!
The next 7 hours was spent checking everything possible, changing all the filters and finally surmising the problem was that we had a fuel blockage. Eventually Nigel had the brainwave to change over our generators’ fuel pipe and divert it to the main engine! Brilliant! Whilst disconnecting the pipes he noticed that there were some black pieces of what looked like wadding in the end of the pipe. We tried all sorts of things; pushing a piece of washing line through the fuel hose; using the dinghy foot bellows to blow air through to clear the black stuff. I have saved it if anyone knows of a laboratory that can analyse what it is. All pipes connected up and after several attempts to start the engine it finally fired up. What a result!!!!! I don’t think either of us had thought of what we would do it we hadn’t been able to fix the problem. We still remain very sceptical and ultra cautious in case there is more black stuff in the fuel tank.
We motored into Lavrion and berthed stern-to against what looked like the charterers area, but there was plenty spaces available and no one directing yachts to anywhere specific. In fact a young man assisted with our ropes and asked what it was like out there as they had also been berthed for 3 days waiting for a change in the weather, he was going to Istanbul. We suggested waiting till the morning!
Later that afternoon a charter boat moored alongside us. They were from Argentina and handed us 7 bottles of water, which they hadn’t used, all in a hurry to get a taxi and catch their flight back home.

Wednesday 3rd September
Quick breakfast. The forecast says northerly F3’s. We plan to have a long sail all the way to Serifos, approx 47 miles.
Departure 08.35 we clear Lavrion and get the jib sail up, motor off and we are sailing on a broad reach F4 wind. We were thrilled to be able to sail up till 5 o’clock when the winds became so changeable through the islands that we had to put the motor on. We had enjoyed a really good days’ sail and arrived at our destination very satisfied at 7.20 pm. We anchored in the lovely bay rather as the one and only pontoon looked congested. It was a gloriously peaceful evening watching the sun go down. We had clocked 44 miles today.

Thursday 4th September
I concentrated on catching up on the log so that we could download it at the one internet-place on the island. It is in the travel agents office and the woman who runs it needs a personality transplant, if there were anywhere else we would definitely go there.
The winds are fairly strong today gusting up to 27 knots so we are not in a hurry to go. The forecast is predicting a calming in the afternoon so we have discussed our options for leaving. At the moment travelling in the evening looks most promising, as the weather tends to calm somewhat after sunset. I noticed a moderating in the wind at 4pm down to more force 4, 11 – 16 knots with a few 19’s and 20’s. Nigel decided we would strike out within the hour all being well.
We weighed the anchor at 1650 and cleared the breakwater by 1700 on our way to Naxos (at least towards out destination). Nigel had earmarked an anchorage about 5 hours away. We had a lovely sail, all sails out, till about 1900 when we had to put the motor on. We watched a beautiful sunset by the north coast of Sifnos.
We arrived at the earmarked bay near to Dhespotiko at around 10pm, and our first attempt was unsuccessful as the anchor dragged badly through the weed and gained no hold whatsoever. When I raised it, it was completely full of week which I removed with the boat hook. We moved about a mile around the coast and dropped our anchor getting a good hold this time and settled down to eat the chicken and vegetables, which I had wrapped in tinfoil and cooked in the oven in readiness. I have to say it tasted really good. It was 11pm when we anchored so once we had eaten we settled down for a few hours sleep.
It is not easy anchoring in the darkness. There was no moonlight tonight as we just newly into a new moon and it disappeared within 2 hours tonight. It always seems that you are closer to land than you really are.

Friday 5th September
When we woke at 5.30 am I looked out to see we were further from the shore line than we would have preferred and could have been about 100 metres closer in but I had panicked at the time and we had anchored in 9 metres of water.
The weather was calm at 5.30 but it had been progressively getting more-windy (only F4) but I was eager to get going while it was still fairly moderate and Nigel agreed.
Off to Naxos to meet up with our friends Peter and Diana who we had met earlier in May. Peter said that there was a berth here for us which, was close to his boat and we were grateful for that.
0725 I began to raise the anchor, I could see it coming up so said to Nigel as usual “anchors aweigh” and kept winding it up to discover horror of horrors the anchor had dropped off!!!!!!!!!. I said “the anchor’s gone” and Nigel said, “what do you mean the anchor’s gone”, exactly that !!!!!!!!

What a week we have had nearly struck by lightening, engine failure in heavy seas and now we’ve lost our anchor. These must be our three things! No more, please.

Nothing else for it, but to plough onto Naxos. We phoned Peter to let him know our predicament and he said not to worry, as there were lazy lines on the mooring he had secured for us. Thankfully, one thing less to be concerned about.

We berthed in Naxos at 1245 with Peter’s assistance. It was good to be here again, especially to see good friends.

Sunday 24th August
An early start to bid farewell to Barbara, Brian and Matty. The boat definitely feels very empty and quiet. We discuss our next passage plans. In dinghy for a coffee at Fresh Bar where we asked Spiros to contact Pam and Stuart (Sapphire Sailing) to get their telephone number as we had handed it back with their folder to their trainer, Ken the day previously. Spiros didn’t give us their number but instead phoned them saying he had Tony Blair on the line (he is a card). We invited them for dinner that evening which they accepted and then we headed off to the supermarket, which is probably the best we have come across since leaving Lefkas, even with a proper butchery counter. We checked whether they would oblige us by delivering the load as they had previously (before we started shopping). I went berserk at the butchery counter, loading up with chicken fillets, pork loin, mince and steak. Our bill came to just under 250 Euro’s – ouch! However, this shop should last us for a long time except for the fresh stuff. We were dropped off by the beach, where we had left our dinghy and it was quite a sight loading the dinghy with all the food and drinks then unloading it onto the boat. We had a relaxing afternoon and a thoroughly enjoyable evening with Pam and Stuart. They regaled us with many stories of experiences they have had during their eight years of chartering boats to people and also as an RYA instructor. It was nice to thank them personally for the loan of their pilot guide-book which we put to very good use. We said our goodbyes as they stepped into their beautiful new powered rib and we will meet up at the London Boat Show in January.

Skiathos is anything but quiet through the night, last stay on the harbour wall it was the taxi drivers and passengers that kept us awake. This time we are now much further away but at anchor and it’s the disco music which is incessant till about 5.30 am. I was semi-awake and could hear the wind get up quite strongly so went into the cockpit to check things out, I watched a yacht close by take their wind sock in as it was crashing against the mast and in danger of damage. The owner of the other yacht close by “Bonnie Morag” was also in his cockpit. By this time the wind was a strong F6, 25 knots. I watched aghast as a yacht drifted by close to Bonnie Morag and off across the bay. It was far over the other side before it’s crew had realised what had happened and I could see navigation lights go on and control being taken of the yacht. They dodged around for a bit wondering what to do, then horror of horrors they came close to us and dropped anchor right in front of us!!!!!!!! By this time Nigel had woken up, and was also not amused. No more sleep for me, I couldn’t trust the yacht or it’s crew. My fears were confirmed when they were lifting their anchor again at about 8.30am and they came drifting back towards us completely oblivious that they were about 12 feet from our bows and no-one at the helm. Nigel gave them a blast with the horn whilst I shouted at them. We were glad to see the back of them and could relax more while riding out the wind which gusted up to F8. It was mid afternoon when the weather began to ease back and we felt able to get ashore to collect some laundry, and check the internet for weather.
We weighed anchor at about 5.30pm and as we sailed out of the bay Pam and Stuart were on their patio, waving goodbye to us. Can’t explain how lovely that was. We sailed for about two miles and found an anchorage which would give us a good spring off the next morning and a quiet night.




Tuesday 26th August
As we were anchored close to a very small strip of beach we took the opportunity to take the dinghy there and give it a really good clean inside and out before loading her on deck. It took us an hour and she cleaned up well and was a job that needed to be done. It gave us both backache – must get more exercise.
Oh joy, we are off again, it’s 9.40 am. It feels like we are heading for home as we are on our return journey.
We passed the big Skiathos Express ferry on our way out. As we were sailing Nigel was quite pleased that he would have to give way to us. Boys!!!
The day promised a good sail, wind F4 – 5 almost behind us. We were not disappointed; we sailed right through till nearly 7pm clocking 43 miles. A very good day. Dropping anchor in a bay, near Ag Giorgos, along north Evia.

Wednesday 27th August
We had a short hop today, deciding to call in at Loutra Adhipsos. We watched up to a dozen dolphins playing for a few minutes as we crossed the bay. As we approached the coast we could see hundreds of heads bobbing in the water. As we learned later they were bathing in the thermal spa-waters, which flow freely into the bay. We dropped anchor beside the Thermae Sylia Spa Hotel, and enjoyed a quiet afternoon reading and dozing. Also a lot of people watching. There was a constant stream of people (generally older) coming down to enjoy the waters. They were even about a 100 people there at 6am the following morning. We went ashore about 7pm in the dinghy. The road along the seafront was lined with restaurants whose tables and chairs could seat several thousand. Unbelievably by 8.30pm the promenade was packed with people and most of the tables were taken. We enjoyed a beautiful late 3rd anniversary dinner in the small restaurant of the Spa Hotel beside the waterfront.

Thursday 28th August
We departed at 9.10 am and had a really nice sail through the north Evia gulf, gibing as the wind changes on broad reachs. 11.50 wind drops and we are motoring. 12.40 north-easterly came up, a third of our sails up we are with the wind again. 1400 wind strengthening to F6 we decided to seek shelter in a small cove 8 miles away. Now on a broad reach making 5 knots on a small piece of jib alone. 1550 the wind died and we are motoring again. 1700 F4 jib out on a broad reach, with a fair amount of swell at the southern end of the gulf. Such is Evia! We decide to press on to Halkida as we know it is within reach in daylight hours and also I am keen to put the winds of Evia behind us.
We reach the horrible harbour wall at Halkida with its ugly metal protrusions and very carefully moor alongside only to discover more under the water. The wind is pushing us onto the wall; we hope our fenders are doing a good job.
Nigel goes off to pay our dues to cross through the bridge that evening. He is told to be at the ready from 10pm, the last time it was 9pm. I was watching the depths aware that we had moored in about 2.1 metres and knowing that there is quite a tidal movement. I had been watching our depths gradually dropping and by 2210 they had got down to 1.6m/1.7m on the instruments (we know we have a little spare on that). Our draft is 1.95, we could not risk any more so pulled away from the side and motored about half a mile away to drop anchor in the darkness, opposite the fishing harbour and market. Never, a dull moment.
We struggled to keep awake and alert till we received the call on VHF at 0215 to be ready.
0240 the second call, there was about 6 yachts milling around a narrow area and a big stink pot behind us (where did he appear from??). The coast guard was not very clear with his instructions and there was some degree of confusion as to who should do what. Eventually he instructed to proceed quickly through the bridge which had been open at least 10 minutes and no traffic had come through from the other side, despite him telling those on our side to keep the channel clear several times. As far as we were concerned it appeared that he was allowing traffic northbound through first. Anyway the yacht in front of us proceeded (slower than one would like) towards the bridge – instructions again came to proceed quickly. At this point Nigel called up on VHF and informed him that we were the second yacht and were coming through! We looked back and the BIG stinkpot was coming through right behind us! Followed by the other yachts. On the south side we all dropped anchor in the large bay and settled down to sleep thoroughly tired from all the anticipation.

Friday 29th August
Weighed anchor at 1010 and motored through the shallow channel by the cement factory and around the large cargo ships at anchor. We motored most of the day as there was too little wind, except for a quick half an hour sail at 4 o’clock.
1655 we were approaching Vouphalo bay that we had thought would be nice on our way up but had passed by. It’s nice to get the opportunity again. The approach is fantastic with the entrance practically hidden until you get very close in, then it opens up. Inside is a perfectly circular little bay in which we anchored in the middle and it is quite lovely.

Saturday 30th August

It’s Saturday morning 6.30 am and life in this tiny little Greek harbour is buzzing and alive with men launching their little boats from their trailers “siga-siga, hella hella, hoopla” I can hear clearly as they direct the driver backing the trailer into the water “slowly, slowly, come come, stop!” The waters are extremely calm so they will have a good morning. I laughed to myself at one group of four men who got into their little boat which looked only just big enough for them, no response from pulling the throttle so one said (in my interpretation) give it a some muscle; which he proceeded to do; still no response. Then a swear word accusing his friend of forgetting to fill it up with petrol, to which there was great hilarity. A few more pulls and they were off with the stern of the boat looking very close to the water line!
We pulled in here to Vouphalo yesterday at about 4.30 after motoring most of the way from Halkida because the light winds were dead ahead and mostly insufficient to sail although we did try intermittently. About an hour before arriving here the catabatic winds became stronger gusting down from the high mountains and were at their strongest on our approach gusting up to F6.
At the end of June when we came up the Evia channel we had looked at stopping in here at Vouphalo but due to the extreme winds encountered in Vliko we had decided to plough on straight up to Halkida rather than get stuck anywhere else. Vouphalo is a delightful small, perfectly circular bay with small fishing craft moored around one side. Two taverna’s, one looks more of a bar and the owner or manager was serving last night shirtless. Probably why he only had two customers for drinks all night whilst the other taverna hosted about a dozen guests.
The cockrel woke us at dawn. He woke up the goats on the other side of the bay. So, I decided I would get up and watch the morning wake up too. Nigel is still asleep, exhausted from our lack of sleep at Halkida and probably due to the nervous apprehension that goes with it all. I managed to snatch a couple of hours yesterday so am a bit more caught up.
Anchors aweigh at 0940, as we depart we watch two herons fly overhead. Another day of mixed wind therefore a combination of motoring and sailing when we could.
1630 saw us anchoring in the southern part of the bay at Rafti. The pilot book offers this as an alternative in southerly blowing winds. Nigel went ashore in the dinghy to fetch some provisions. Mostly milk bread, and nibbles to have with our G & T’s.
We let out more chain later as we watched the dark clouds gather but it turned out, fairly calm overnight.

Sunday 31st August

The forecast doesn’t look good and the wind is picking up in here too. The clouds are still dark around us. 0925 It looked ok outside so we decided we could get to a sheltered bay 1 mile north of Lavrion, before anything in the forecast came our way. As we raised the anchor we heard a rumble of thunder. Should have stayed put at that moment! We took Janika out into the open seas, which were pretty awful with a bad swell, lifejackets on and clipped on too. Within 10 minutes there was forked lightening strikes all ahead of us to the left and right. With the wind direction the storm should have been going away from us but it soon became apparent that it was changing direction and coming straight for us. There was one particular flash of lightening and an immediate clap of thunder, which was the loudest we had ever heard. It was so bad and scary that Nigel turned the boat around and motored as fast as we could in the hope that we would get back in the bay before we were caught. Nigel was absolutely marvellous – my hero – he helmed brilliantly through the massive heavy swell with thunder and lightening striking indiscriminately. I cowered below hanging on to the stairway too scared to come into the cockpit. We heard the most almighty crack right above us and thought we had been struck for an instant then checking the instruments realised we must have had a lucky escape. Back inside Rafti we anchored in another area more protected from the now northerly winds and heaved a huge sigh of relief.
The rest of the day was spent riding out the winds blowing at F5 – 6 at anchor inside the bay.


Monday 1st September
Still here riding out the winds, which are gusting up to 39.4 knots at one point. All our anchor chain is out and we are swinging but more importantly we must have a good hold and we have such good faith in our anchor.

Logging on again!

We are off again on our travels after exploring practically every nook and cranny around the Sithonia peninsula with Katie, Mark and Elisa; then Barbara, Brian and Matty who came on board in Panagias for almost two weeks.

After a couple of nights spent at anchor around the Island of Dhiaporos, and Amouliani Island, then a lunch stop in Ouranopoulis we headed down the Akti peninsula, Monastery spotting on the way. It was a glorious day and we were able to sail all the way down. They are a pretty impressive sight even through the binoculars at a mile off the coast, which is mandatory by law (at last if there are women on board it is). Enroute we spotted a swordfish (we think), leaping and twisting three times, it must have been over 6 feet. Such spottings always generate immense excitement – even in us adults! Our overnight stop was at Sikias where we all enjoyed a really good meal ashore at a beach Taverna. We were anchored so close to it that, it only took a couple of minutes to get ashore in the dinghy. Funnily enough the taverna is named Seven Steps, presumably because it is seven steps from the beach to it. A delight of Greek appetizers were ordered before our main course, we had had a really long day, it was 8.30pm and we were all hungry. The Taverna did not disappoint, especially Matty who thoroughly enjoyed his steak!
Unfortunately we have been plagued with jelly-fish recently, large orangey brown ones and lots of very small clear ones, so swimming is a cautious event. Barbara is still managing to do her 4 circuits of the boat every morning, even before breakfast – very impressive.
We called in at Kuofo again and to our delight were able to fill up our diesel tanks easily, then headed to anchor off the beach at the other end of the bay. The next day we struck out across the North Aegean Sea to the Sporades, stopping for a swim in South Psathoura, uninhabited, but reputed to be the vicinity of the lost city of Alonisos the ruins of which can still be seen underwater if you know where to look. The waters around the area were beautiful, crystal clear and jelly fish free.
The next few days were spent anchoring in a different bay or cove, with Greek yoghurt, honey and fruit for breakfast. Swimming during the day, eating tomatoes and cucumber and fresh bread where we could for lunch, and relaxing in the evening aboard playing scrabble, cards or just chatting. One of the favourite stops was in the small bay next to Steni Vala where we dropped anchor and reversed back with Brian and Matty at the ready in the dinghy to tie a long rope to a tree. It was here we met Yannis who lived in the house just behind where we were anchored, he was swimming nearby and introduced himself to us. As well as many other things, he told us that the jellyfish were harmless (plankton - food for the fish he said). The next morning he came over in his rib and handed us a bag of plums from his own garden. We are constantly overwhelmed by the generosity of the local Greek people.
Off to Rousoumi Bay where we went ashore for a leisurely lunch and after swimming Nigel took BB & M to explore the caves round the corner at Votsi. Later that evening after dinner Nigel, Brian and Matty went back ashore to enjoy a fruit cocktail and ice cream which they say is the best they have ever had!!!! The following morning another dinghy trip into Patiteri to introduce BB & M to Monachus Monachus (the endangered Monk Seal) Information Centre.
The next day we were hoping to make for Skopelos but decided against it due to some strong northerly winds, the pilot book advises not to enter or leave when the winds are in that direction and more than F5 - 6 as there can can be dangerous seas in the shoal waters off the entrance, also if the winds increase you can end up being trapped inside for a few days.
So we made for Agnondas.
We had a close encounter with the Skiathos Ferry in Agnondas when he didn’t like where we had anchored – even though the pilot book says you you can anchor where we did! He gave several loud blasts so we had to raise our anchor and moved around into another bay round the corner Limonari Bay. Unfortunately the ferry does not normally come in here unless there are strong winds, which stop him going into Skopelos. Nigel was not at all impressed and I think had we been as big as him, there may well have been a battle started!
It was felt safer to opt for a bus ride from Agnondas into Skopelos which took only about 15 minutes. I joined Barbara, Brian and Matty on the bus to pick up some provisions while Nigel stayed at anchor in the small harbour. We had previously agreed that BB & M would get the bus to Panormos and we would sail there to meet them. This would give them as long as they wanted ashore in Skopelos.
Nigel and I enjoyed a very slow leisurely sail to Panormos which was only about 5 miles around the island, but we took a couple of hours to fill up our water tanks and dropped anchor close to the beach so that a nice swim could be enjoyed. We had not been there very long when we spied BB & M on the shore waving to be picked up in the dinghy.
Although every day was memorable for one reason or another, this one was a great evening. We dinghied over to the small inlet to see Michael Carrolls’ house, the author of “Gates of the Wind” written about his life and sailing adventures around Greece and how he found and fell in love with the Sporades, had the good fortune to meet a man named Vassili who he eventually managed to buy some land from his father to build the house he is still living today in his mid seventies. Nigel organised timed dingy races between himself Brian and Matty. The boys had such fun slaloming through some buoys close by and each trying to beat the other’s time. Dinner over and Nigel announced “right all in the dingy to see the sunset”. We couldn’t catch the sunset from where we were positioned so we had to race across the bay (race is a bit extreme with our 2.5 hp engine), we did just catch the sun in all it’s beautiful glory before it disappeared. Always, a beautiful moment. Returning back to Janika with wet bottoms as 5 in a dingy that needed blowing up was inevitable, we were all in good spirits. I managed to loose my footing between the dingy and the boat ladder and fell backwards into the sea! Hadn’t banked on having a shower at that time of night.
21st August now and we enjoyed sailing around the islands making water as we went towards Loutraki. A lunchtime stop and a swim at anchor off Nea Klima was enjoyed on the way, and we dropped anchor and moored stern to the pontoon in Loutraki at around 3pm. Not sure who decided it would be a good idea to walk up to Glossa a small village which sits high up on top of the hill in the searing afternoon heat but by the time we reached the top bottles of water were consumed eagerly. We had heard and read that there was an excellent restaurant called Agnanti’s which we managed to book and returned there that evening for a superb meal.
Here we are again returning to Skiathos, it’s Friday 22nd, and we anchor around the corner from the town to enjoy a last swim before heading in to berth in Skiathos town harbour to aid Barbara, Brian and Matty’s departure early morning Sunday.
We were just about ready to leave when Matty’s towel slipped overboard and after a little deliberation dad donned his swimming gear, mask and flippers and eventually located the sunken towel in 20 feet of water. With the help of the kedge anchors prongs it was retrieved to live to see a few more holidays.
We moved the boat into Skiathos harbour hoping for a berth alongside, but the “stinkpots” had taken most of the positions and the day charterers the rest, which seemed to only leave space for three visiting yachts which were full. Anchoring again close by as we knew the holding was good was the best bet however, we hadn’t banked on the disco noise till 5.30 am. Not sure which was the worst – the taxi drivers and prospective passengers where we had berthed 6 weeks ago or the sounds of three different disco tunes blasting out!!
We frequented the Fresh bar for lunch once again and were welcomed by the jolly Spiros who remembered us from before. They have the coldest draft Mythos on the island, which was very welcome as the day was very hot. A nice relaxing lunch, whilst watching the closing days of the Olympics, then a stroll around the town. A last opportunity for pressie shopping for BB & M and I think they found some good gifts for the family back home. We found the lovely leather shop where most of the goods are hand made by the owner and his staff. Nigel took the opportunity to buy a unique leather belt. These chances don’t appear around every corner.
Our last meal onboard followed by a last game of scrabble which Matty finally won. He had been striving for victory and had managed to come a close second so many times but at last he had done it – well done Matty. He really is a trier, trying to get away with all sorts of words – we must check out ‘gimp’ when we get home – oh and ‘panto’. Lots of good sport was enjoyed.
Sunday morning all packed and ready to go, Nigel dinghied Brian and the luggage to the ferry area and returned for Barbara, Matty and myself, all this at about 7.15. We waved goodbye as the ferry departed at 7.40 am. The boat will seem very empty without them. I think it has been an excellent fortnight, weather perfect, daily change of scenery, great company and importantly no accidents or weather issues.

We are now back in civilisation, where there is a phone connection and internet.
Although, I have to say, that I wonder if where we have been for the last few days, amongst the uninhabited islands and unusual breed goats, has been more 'civilised' than back with the people!
Anyway, we have left Karen onboard, where she is cleaning mats and tidying up, as well as making sure Janika doesn't move in the little cove called Rousoumi, because today we have some stronger wind and swell.
Brian Barbara Matty and me have come into Patitiri, which just around the corner from our anchorage position. I have pointed out the Monachus Monachus information centre about the Monk Seals, and left them to talk to you.
It was a bit bouncy on our way in, as the swell is building. The water is what I would describe as 'sloppy'.
After lunch onboard we shall leave here, and head for Skopolos which Karen and I like so much. You may have seen some of the town on the recent new film, Mama Mia?
Our itinerary will take us to Skiathos by the weekend, where we shall say goodbye to Brian Barbara and Matty, and continue on our way south.
Until next time, hope you are all well, and getting some sunshine.
Nigel

We are still up the top of the gulf between Sithonia and Akti, Northern Greece. Where as you know, this internet cafe in Ouranoplis is the only chance to contact the outside world by internet!
We now have Brian, Barbara and their son Matty onboard, and are about to make our way along the Akti coast to see the monasteries, at least one mile off, because women are not allowed any closer! And then onwards south bound to The Sporades.
So, it will be some time again before we will write our Blog.
Until then, we hope you are all well, and will, I am sure find some interesting things to write about by then. Probably about the Monks to start off with!
Nigel

It is some time since we have been able to update the Blog. Sorry!
There are so few internet sites around this area at the top of the Gulf between Sithonia and Akti.
Infact, now, I've managed to find one on a brief visit to Agios Nickolias, a small village not far from Ormos Panagias where we have been anchored for a few days.
We have come by taxi to find a replacement gas cylinder! Such is life onboard. but we need it for cooking, and Brian Barbara and Matty are due to arrive soon!
When we arrived we found a hair salon. Well. you could call it that! We went inside, and a young girl explained that she would need to call someone. She didn't do english, but it was as good as our Greek! In due course 'someone' arrived, and Karen is presently subjecting herself to 'the works'.
Meanwhile, I've been tapping the ivories, and drinking a rather strong G & T. And I must say, that at 12.30, it's found it's place, and I'm feeling quite squiffi!
So, you will have to await Karen's next Blog. But I must tell you, That last week we had Katie. Mark Anthony and Elisa onboard. It was a good week, had by all. I think that we covered this Gulf completely, except for a journey along the monastries, which the tour boats do, every day with hundreds! The winds were a bit too strong, and Katie was feeling the motion a bit, so we left that bit. Otherwise, sandy beaches empty, or with only a few people were lovely to visit. All the time anchoring, except for one lunchtime stop alongside at a place I can't even attempt to spell!
Hope you are all well. At least you know we are alive! I must get out of this place, and find some fresh air!
Nigel

I can’t believe it is 9 days since I have written. Sounds stupid, but the time just flies by so quickly which only goes to show that you have to make the most of every minute! I read yesterday, in a place in South America the Earth rotates at a thousand miles an hour, (Nigel says that here is a whole line of circumference around the world that does too!) and travels around the sun at eighteen miles per second – utterly incomprehensible.

We left Nea Marmaras on Monday 21st July, after a quick visit the previous day to Porto Carras, the very smart Marina just along the coast from Marmaras. It was a ten minute ferry ride but the sting was that it cost us 3 euros each as we stepped off the ferry to enter. We found the Port Captain’s office and asked how much it would be to stay per night – 36 euro’s but there was no space till 5th August and then you would have to phone to check. Good job then that we aren’t interested. We were only there out of curiosity because we had heard that it was very nice. It was so clinical and soul-less too.

With information duly swapped between Siegfreid and ourselves, goodbyes to all. 1130 am, we set off on our next voyage of discovery. Glad to be at sea again to get the breeze. Marina’s and the like are all fine but they are incredibly hot confined places generally, which can be so uncomfortable.
We retraced our earlier steps along the coast, sailed passed Kuofo, and the swell increased more and more as we neared the headland of south Sithonia and rounded it making our way to Skala Sikias, the engine had to go on to get us through, as the wind died just we rounded some rocks, and quickly please. We arrived and anchored near the beach at 1630 hrs. Nigel decided to practice using the kedge anchor again hoping that it would counteract the swell. So, off he went in the dinghy, dropped the kedge about 30 metres away and while he was tightening it in on Janika I was watching what was happening with the kedge through my goggles. Amazingly once all the slack was brought in the kedge did dig itself in really well. It all worked a treat this time. We decided to treat ourselves to a meal ashore in the only little taverna on the beach as by the time we had played around it was now 8.30 pm.

Off to Dhiaporos Island. (anchors aweigh at 1020 hr). It was the rather rude Frenchman who lost his cool in Skopelos who told us about Dhiaporos. We are hoping that it might be the ideal cruising ground for Katie, Mark and grand-daughter Elisa, who will join us for a week on 29th July. No idea yet how they will get there but these things I am sure, we will find out in due course. We sailed up the east side of the Sithonia Peninsula, F3 easterly on mostly a beam reach with 1 knot of current helping us along thank you. The wind blew up to F5 with a medium swell accompanying. By 1440 hrs we had dropped anchor in a bay on North Dhiaporos. It was so quiet and still. We watched three herons return at dusk. Later we sat up on the bow just marvelling at the night as it drew in. The only down-side to this delightful spot is that it seems to be over-run with wasps.

Moving on quickly the next day (Wed 23rd) to flee from the wasps, we decided to explore what Panagias had to offer. This is a small port where the pirate ships take hundreds of tourists daily on trips down the west side of the Akti Peninsula to view the incredible Monasteries. Boats with women on board must keep one mile distance off the coast. Heavy fines are imposed for those who choose to disregard. We dropped anchor in the bay in Panagias at 0915 in very shallow water, as Nigel was trying to secure a patch of sand to get a good anchor hold, with me doing my usual jumping up and down –“Nigel it’s too shallow” and Nigel replying “we’ll be fine”. We watched as the pirate boat and another large ferry type boat was loaded up with their passengers, all of whom had been brought by the coaches, which were lined up along the roadside. (We counted 11). Once they departed, the place became a normal little town again. There is one supermarket, two fish stalls by the small quay selling the day’s catch and a few Taverna’s - that’s all. We popped ashore in the dinghy and found out the times of buses from Thessaloniki for when Katie flies over next week. Bought a few provisions and headed back to Janika. There was a lady swimming very close to the boat who said something in Greek to me, Nigel asked what it was and I replied, “She said we are lying on the bottom of the sea-bed”. Jokingly mostly but knowing that we were very close. I really thought she had said that we were anchored too close to where she was swimming, so I told her we would be off within 5 minutes. The next thing I noticed was the depth gauge and pointed it out to Nigel and also said that the boat wasn’t moving. At the same time we watched another yacht approach and get ready to anchor close by (about 70 metres away) and noticed it was people from Israel who we had met briefly in Nea Marmaras. We were definitely aground and going nowhere. I was not amused to say the least and am ashamed to say that I had several words with Nigel. He wasn’t amused either and joked about not being any tide in the Med!!! Of course it was the tide which had played the key part in our situation! We tried to drive off but only succeeded in pulling the anchor out of it’s position while still resting on the sand.
To cut a long story short we told Gideon (on the other yacht) who was only too happy to assist us with our problem. He was so relaxed about our situation saying “it happens”. We tried several things but the one that worked was Gideon taking a long (very long) rope to the quayside by dingy, the other end leading up to the top of our mast and tilted the boat to an angle of 30 degrees, Nigel on the helm and using motor whilst I reeled in the anchor, we moved off the bottom. It was heart stopping stuff but successful. I don’t know what we would have done had Gideon not arrived. He and his wife and two daughters have been travelling around Greece for 2 months and are on their final bit before heading back to Israel.
After that escapade we have kept a bit further back from the shallows as there are not too many Gideons about! We have been to Ouranopolis, Nisos Ammoulani, Dhimitriaki bay, Pirgadkikia and several others exploring the bays and coves of the area. We are confident that when Katie, Mark and baby Elisa come on board we can safely sail and anchor in several places for one week.

Tuesday 29th July

We drop anchor in the bay of Panagias (yes, the one we went aground in), but a long distance from where we were the last time. Katie, Mark and Elisa (8 months old) arrived by taxi from Thessaloniki and an excited grandma got hold of Elisa very quickly and am enjoying every minute of her being onboard with us. She is a natural sailor and just loves going in her little rubber car which her legs slot into so she can float around on her own kicking her legs below. Then back on board she sits in a large washing up bowl with fresh water in and plays with her toys while everyone has a shower after swimming until I shower and wash her hair too and hand her to mum to dry and dress (actually all she wears is her nappy). She goes to bed around 7pm and sleeps well, although this morning she woke at 5 am and wanted to talk, blow raspberries and play. I warmed her bottle and she went back to sleep for another couple of hours thankfully. Katie is getting used to the idea that we don’t have the modern conveniences of things like microwaves and the gas kettle takes a little while to boil.

Must end now as we are in Ouranopolis and it has the only internet around for miles and miles.

Thursday 17th July
We had an interesting nights’ sleep. The previous days’ winds had left their mark perhaps and the swell that rolled around this little cove was quite something. At some point during the night, fed up of trying to stay in bed, I changed our sleeping position to athwartships (side ways) to counteract the rolling. It seemed to work as we got back off to sleep quickly.
It is quite amazing how like-minded Nigel and me are when it comes to making plans and decisions. We had received strong recommendations that a little place named Steni Vala was “not to be missed”, so we thought we would sail to it to see what all the fuss was about. To be quite honest neither of us is particularly keen to go bows to into the harbour wall (mainly because we have not yet done this using our kedge anchor and also because we would be alongside charter boats, the skippers of which have varying degrees of skills leaving us constantly on tenterhooks). It was only a couple of miles further along, but our main aim was to go across to the next island of Pelargos which is an area within the Marine Park and secure an anchorage in the south bay of Limin Planitis.
We passed Steni Vala which was quite visible and didn’t look anything special and looked very busy with boats, so we kept on sailing using the winds of F4-5 and gusting 6’s with me getting quite excited everytime the winds strengthened and the boat threatened to heel more than I like. We can ‘do’ Steni Vala on our return perhaps.
What really appeals to us both is a beautiful anchorage, which we feel we have discovered ourselves. The independence and peacefulness of it and there is no worry about who will come alongside. Plus you can have a swim at anchor. (Unlike being in harbour with all the mess.)
We sailed all the way to Limin Plantis (approx 20 miles), mostly close hauled, and only put the engine on at the last minute, as we anchored. A great day for sailing. On the approach into the large bay there is a very large rock which is inhabited by several species of rare goats and one stood proud on the top edge bleating to us as we went by. Not sure whether he was welcoming us or telling us to “go away”. The waters were the most beautiful clear aquamarine and the bottom sand so we got a good holding and a nice position. This anchorage is fantastic! In one of the books we have it says “take only pictures and leave only your footprints.” I really like that, if only everybody, everywhere observed that principal the seas would be a lot cleaner. When we went swimming later, we were very disappointed at the lack of fish. Maybe we had expected too much. While snorkelling we found a large fisherman’s net with floats and metal sharp looking weights which had been discarded somehow and was lying in a large square. The sad thing was that there were fish, which had got themselves trapped in it never to escape. Sailors run the risk of getting things like that completely wrapped around the propellers and causing big problems.
During the afternoon two pleasure boats motored into the bay, with about 30-40 people on board, stopped for a swim then left after an hour and a half. That just left us and two Swiss boats and a couple on a charter boat. That evening we were treated to a glorious full moon, a flat calm glassy sea, with the goats and nature communing in perfect harmony around us. Utter bliss.

Friday 18th July
I was awake at 6.30 and just sitting on deck watching the sun rise over the hill and the goats walking with sure feet over the rocks, goodness knows what they found to eat there. We would love to spend longer here but are aware that to cross the North Aegean Sea to Halkidiki you need good weather which we had, only too good, no wind to speak of so motoring all the way with an average of 1.9knots of favourable current with us we arrived in Kuofo 36 miles in distance in just over 5 hours which was an average of 6.9 knots speed over the ground. If you can’t have the wind to sail with then this must be the next best thing!

Kuofo is one of the most magnificent natural harbours in the Mediterranean. It took some time to see where the entrance was amongst the high cliffs. Once inside it offers the best protection from any wind. At one end is the beach area and the other is where most boats are permanently anchored to buoys or like us just anchored. We arrived at about 3pm and one of the Swiss boats which had been also with us in Pelargos was there too. They waved as we passed by. I had watched them depart at 7am, whereas we left at 9.
We had a lovely afternoon and evening watching all the comings and goings of the little fishing boats. We even watched one man in his little wooden boat catch an octopus with a line and hook. I couldn’t and wouldn’t want to describe to you what he did to that poor creature.
A peaceful night was enjoyed at anchor in Kuofo.

Sat 19th – Sun 20th July
Again I couldn’t resist getting up early again the bay was a real picture. I finished reading a book which Jutta passed on “The Tenderness of Wolves”, very good, thank you Jutta.
We watched a cormorant standing on a rock after washing his wings and then proudly open them wide to be dried by the sun. He stood proud for many minutes wings outstretched.
Off we set to Nea Marmaras at 0850hrs arriving at 1120. Lucky, a boat had just left it’s mooring as we arrived (the only space available). We were beckoned over by a German who issued us with instructions to drop our anchor about 40 metres away due to chains and concrete blocks decorating the bottom of this little harbour. They assisted us alongside them and he almost hasn’t stopped talking since. Sigfried and Gudrun are from Stuttegart and have been everywhere, experienced most things and are full of information. In fact, he wants us to share information this afternoon (Sunday), I’m really not sure if there is anything which we can tell him! However, there is a lot we can learn from him as he has been to the places which we are going to in the next few days so for us his knowledge will be very welcome and useful.

Thursday 10th July
A very late departure from Skiathos, it’s as if we can’t break away but it’s like that if you stay in a place for a few days you get quite reluctant to leave the security of it, even though the taxi drivers chatter could drive you insane!
Stuart zoomed over in his newly acquired very smart looking rib to ask what time we were off, to wish us a safe journey, and offering assistance with anything, particularly weather forecasts should we need them (we had his number).
1710 hrs a touching farewell to Reggie our neighbour who said he would miss us, which was incredibly touching. He is quite a character; his ribs were a lot better today thankfully. He is planning to winter his boat in either Marmaris or Kemer, both Turkey. Nigel kindly advised him not to go chasing any more fenders!
Ropes eased and anchor cleanly lifted we are off again. As we cross over the harbour we can see Pam frantically waving from her balcony and Stuart below her at the waters edge by his rib waving us off. We feel quite overwhelmed as we leave Skiathos this late afternoon.

The islands around the Sporades are so close together you can hop from one to another in no time at all. We were heading for a bay called Panormous, which has a sheltered and secluded inlet where boats can go stern to and tie up to a tree. After we had pottered about making an hour’s worth of water to replenish our tanks after Skiathos, we entered the bay and decided against going into the inlet as there were several others in there and also it was an easier option to anchor in the beautiful bay anyway. We had a late dinner and watched one of the most beautiful and colourful sunsets yet, hues changing from through oranges, mauves and pinks. We would have missed that if we had tucked into the inlet. The bay was very deep, in fact this is the deepest we have anchored in yet, at16 metres.

Fri 11th – Wed 16th July
Departure at 1140 hrs, we enjoyed sailing out in a F3 and making more water as we went. We found Limonaria Bay, Nigel can’t say it, so has nicknamed it Lemonade Bay. We quickly decide that this bay is one of our favourite yet. The scenery around it is beautiful, the beach area is small and the waters are turquoise crystal clear so swimming is irresistible.
Onto Stafilos Bay on Saturday for a quick lunch stop until we are joined by 4 other yachts so we decide it’s time to go before any more squeeze in.
We have changed our plan to go to Skopelos tonight as the wind direction suggests that there could be an uncomfortable swell in the harbour tonight, so we scoot over to Alonnisos island, Little Mourtia Bay which offers better shelter and if the forecast is correct then it will be calm for Skopelos on Sunday. Nigel went for a swim to check out the anchor position to find that we had found the sand but the chain was wrapping around a few rocks and we had missed the submarine cable by about 5 metres! The chart had it mapped much further over.
Our decision proved to be a good one as we awoke to very calm conditions and sailed back over the 2 miles to Skopelos. We arrived inside the harbour at 1230 to find we had our pick of spaces. We moored up stern to with a French boat on one side; the only problem was wondering who would come on the other side of us, as there was a smallish gap as we were on a bit of a corner. Skopelos is quite lovely, smaller and more upmarket than Skiathos. Some of the shops sell very unique wares, but with prices to match. The narrow streets are very typical and the houses whitewashed with the gorgeous Mediterranean blue colour for doors and window frames. A car can be squeezed through most of the streets, and unbelievably sometimes is! Although, there are more scooters and motorbikes which intermingle with the pedestrians. We came across the most beautifully decorated church we have seen in Greece, every inch of the walls and ceiling depicts scenes from the bible telling the stories of the life of Jesus.
Skopelos was a good stopover. I have heard nice things about it for years. Apparently, Glossa, the main town at the top of the island is well worth a visit but the bus times were not favourable so that will have to wait for another day.

The internet weather forecast tells us that there is a blow on it’s way so we make a plan to move on to an anchorage rather than take our chances against the harbour wall. There are three choices across on the island of Alonnisos which will afford some protection against the predicted F7 winds. These being Patitiri, the main harbour town on the island where the ferries call into – already not a good choice, the middle bay of Rousoumi or Votsi which is very tiny and a swell tends to roll around it. So Rousoumi it is and trust that we dig our anchor in well.

It’s now Wedneday 16th and the winds arrived from a flat calm day yesterday increasing quite quickly to a Force 5/6/7 at about 8.30 pm. The expression lull before a storm comes to mind and is proving ever true on our travels. The wind changed direction as predicted and consequently we swing around the opposite way, we let a further 20m of chain out and Nigel tried to set the kedge anchor from the stern to try to stop us swinging so much, we think it helped a little but as he found out today it dropped in weed so didn’t get a good hold at all. I spent most of the night bobbing my head up and down to check our position. At about 3 am I watched the boat, which was behind us leave, and will never know whether his anchor dragged or they just choose to leave. The latter is not to be recommended around these islands in the dark as there are few if any navigation lights!

Yesterday we took the dinghy around to see what Patitiri was like as it is so close and found the visitors centre for the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus), the rarest seal species in the world and the most endangered mammal of Europe. We watched an interesting video about the seals, their habitat and the work the society is undergoing to monitor and protect these precious animals. We are particularly interested as we will soon be heading towards the National Marine park area where we would be incredibly lucky to see one, (especially as there are only about 500 in the world and 250 are in Greece).
Managed to pick up 5 lt of oil which Jenny will gobble up, and check the weather again on the net.
We also took the opportunity to see what Votsi was like and confirmed that we made the right choice of Rousoumi. We found a deep cave and took the dinghy right inside it – quite marvellous but scary. Ran out of petrol on the way back but like good sailors we had our oars with us !!!!!! Fortunately we were only about 100m away from the yacht so Nigel didn’t have to work too hard.

The bay we are in is incredibly clean, so much so that we made water for 2 hours this morning. There are three Tavernas on the small beach. Yesterday, a man swimming told us off for washing our dinghy, telling us to do that sort of thing out at sea. I had to reassure him that we were only using seawater to wash off the dirty footprints from our walk in Patitiri. He calmed down after that. Karen.

Thursday 10 July 2008.

A short edition by Nigel. I have to say this because Karen is frightened by what I might say!
6 July
At 10.30 on Sunday 6 July we anchored in O. Siferi, just off the beach and less than a mile from Skiathos town. (I was much traumatised by my recent experiences of nakedness, and was much relieved to see people in swimsuits.)
The pilot guide said that Skiathos was a very busy place, and that it was difficult to find a place to berth. So, the idea of anchoring off and then reconnoitring by dingy was the plan.
In the evening Karen and I made our way into town by dingy (Daphne), and went into the old harbour where the excursion boats were moored. Tied up to the quay, paddled to the steps, and made our way around the waterfront. Lovely. The usual restaurants, bars and café’s, but more tasteful than I had feared, and the buildings are spread up and over the little hills that fringe the waterfront, making it an attractive place.
We found the new harbour, where the yachts and stink-pots berth, which all blends in well. It looked like we would be able to get into the town quay without as much trouble as had been reported. We collected some provisions, checked on the internet and returned to Janika for dinner as the sun went down around 8.30pm.

7 – 10 July
We have just spent three good days here in Skiathos meeting some lovely people, and so, I shall best cover this period by talking about them.
Stuart and Pam Turner are really the reason we are here in Skiathos. We had met them on two occasions on their stand at the London boat shows, because they run a charter business here as well as an RYA (Royal Yachting Association) training centre. We did think about chartering from them, though never seemed to get the time, but Pam had told us about their love of Skiathos and all about how they came to be here. It sounded so good, that we had to include it on our itinerary this year.
We shouted across a boat berthed on the ‘pontoon’ at the end of the new quay, and Ken appeared, holding a John Gresham book he was reading. So right away he was on my wavelength. He explained that Stuart and Pam were away at Loutraki, but would return that evening and be in the bar ‘Fresh’. We met them later and as promised bought the drinks and enjoyed a very pleasant and informative evening. Wonderful.
Next day they came to our boat and brought as discussed a copy of a new pilot guide by Rob Buttress called West Aegean, as well as a copy of their own guide they give charterers with useful info. All on the Sporades.
Avery charming couple, who despite being in the middle of their busy time, gave us so much of theirs. The trick was, as Pam explained, that we saw them at their office which was the bar table in ‘Fresh’ across from the pontoon. Good position.

Reggie has to have the next mention! We first met Reggie when he came alongside the berth a couple of boats up from us, after quite a few goes at getting in. And then disembarking ten, yes ten people, who it looked had been on a day sail. On his 38 foot Bavaria. Ex Charter boat.
After the hair raising berthing, Reggie came over to thank me for assisting with his ropes, and apologised for his awful boat handling, when he should have known better.
Next day, Reggie was asked to move his boat and berth on the other side of us! You can imagine our concern to be on hand, as he manoeuvred his boat against ours shortly afterwards. We needn’t have worried, as he did a good job.
On the next day, I saw a loose fender making its way across the harbour in a blow. Ken was on board, and being only 11.00am we were drinking Cokes. (Thought I would get that in!)
What I didn’t know was that Reggie had seen it too. And had decided to see if he could retrieve it! Time passed, and by now Ken had gone, and Stuart and Pam were onboard having teas and coffees. Suddenly, Reggie was standing at the back of our boat, and making a funny sound, and was crunched up, leaning on a boat hook, looking something like Fagan in Oliver, when he held something close to his chest and didn’t want you to see it. We all laughed, because we thought it was a joke. It wasn’t a joke.
Reggie, in pursuit of the fender, had climbed aboard a fishing boat, and tried reaching out for the fender with his extended boathook. But he missed it. Then somehow, (I hadn’t the cheek to ask, (hard to believe I know) he had fallen on the fishing boat broken his glasses, lost a glass eye piece, and lost one shoe. And worse still had badly bruised his ribs in the fall. Hence his awkward stance while standing looking at us, then laughing at him!
As soon as we realised I popped over onto the quay. We went back to the fishing boat, and I climbed aboard, found glass eyepiece, but no shoe. Reggie was happy, and we returned to his boat, and helped him onboard. He is getting better now, but has been in quite some pain. He is no youngster, so it will take some time.

Others we have met. Are Lyn, who has been selling some holiday spot across the island. Nice girl from Ireland.
Spiros, who owns the bar ‘Fresh’. A lovely man, who speaks good English. Is big and gentle, and who always gives you an extra half-pint glass of Mythos (lager) just as you are leaving.
Cynthia from Holland who we met in a nice little restaurant called Bistrot. The photo of Skiathos was taken from our table.
Annette, a mad Swedish lady who had just arrived at the restaurant, sat next to us, and explained that she had also been here in May and June this year. She likes it so much.
A Welsh couple that run a linen shop in the old part of Skiathos, and moved here three years ago. A quality of life move.
Graham and Lyn who I said, if you’re passing, drop in for a Mythos, when we met them in a bar, run by another English couple. They did, but we had coffee. Too early for drinks. They were from Stourbridge.
And many others. An amazing number of very friendly people in a friendly place.

In the meantime, when not fending off our Janika from other boats, listening to the taxi drivers whose cabin is just at the back of us, at 3am in the morning! I now use cotton wool, to cut out the noise. Karen sticks her head out of the skylight and watches them in amazement. We have also, looked around the town and like it.

Now it’s time to go. We shall have a lunch at Fresh, and return and cast off this evening and head for an anchorage in Loutraki and some peace. So, it will be a few days before the next entry. Bye for now.

Friday 4th July

Nothing to hang around for, certainly not the jellyfish, so with anchors aweigh at 0820 hrs we were motoring all the way as I was so calm although it was a good day for passing through the Steno Oreon, the channel across the top of northern Evia leading to Volos and the North Sporades. At one point we were doing 7.5 knots over the ground with a great current pushing us on. For some strange reason we seem to be very lucky with the current going the way we are – not complaining as every little bit helps.
Nigel had earmarked several coves to look at on the very small island of Trikeri. The one we decided on was N. Palaio Trikeri, slightly east of the small village. There was already a Bavaria yacht in the cove anchored and tied to a tree on the beach so we picked our spot and decided to try the same. We dropped the anchor in about 6 metres of water and it was Nigel’s turn to swim ashore with the rope. All nicely secure, Nigel went for a swim to check out how the anchor was bedded in. He came back to the boat slightly concerned as the rudder wasn’t very far off the bottom of the sandy seabed. The bottom had shelved a lot more than expected so we spent the next few hours watching the water levels and measuring the depth with our leadline.
Nigel had an afternoon nap, very unusual for him. While he was asleep the two couples on the Bavaria returned in a little boat (looks like somebody from the Taverna in the village might have brought them back). Nigel was just wakening up when I asked him NOT to turn round quickly as the two ladies, perhaps aged about 50 ish had taken their clothes off and were swimming ashore to have a walk before untying their rope and made a big show of doing it all – not a pretty sight. We can’t believe how some people don’t like to get their swimming costumes wet! Nigel says he should sue for damages. A few minutes later they were off leaving us amazed.
I went in for a swim (appropriately clothed), and, rather than move and relay our anchor to give us more depth below the rudder and more of a comfortable feeling, we decided to try out a technique which we had read about and witnessed a demo of at the Exel Boat Show in January. It’s called using an “angel”, which you lower down the anchor chain and by adding more weight, you improve the angle of the chain against the seabed, and keep more chain along the seabed which improves the ‘holding’. It was an ideal day to try this out, as the weather was nice and calm for messing about. Nigel rigged up our old kedge anchor and lowered it down the anchor chain but it did not lower down as easily as we would have liked so I had to push it further with my foot, then dive down to push it even further. At least it seemed to impress Nigel!
Over the next couple of hours we watched a couple of motor cruisers come in and drop their anchors. Interestingly, on the first boat the lady promptly jumped off the back with a rope, swam ashore and secured it to a tree. On the second boat, a larger, smarter one, the chap was on top deck by the wheel while his very attractive wife elegantly got into the water with a rope and she too swam ashore and secured it to a tree! That’s it I’m doomed now Nigel clearly thinks that this is the woman’s job while the male ponces about by the wheel directing operations!!!!!!
During the evening we watched lightening flashing and a little thunder some miles off with some very light rain. It had a nice cooling effect, which made for a pleasant sleep.



Saturday 5th July
Anchors aweigh at 0930 hrs, we are eager to see Skiathos. Before we left Trikeri island completely, we decided to circumnavigate it just for fun. It’s so small it at about 5 miles round that it only took us an hour. Once on our course to Skiathos we raised the main sail and the jib and pottered about for a while in F1 – 2 winds (light airs I think they are referred to), we were making way at 1.5 to 2.5 knots (pottering about you might call it) trying to find some wind and save some diesel. Believe it or not the current was with us again, in fact it was the current that was taking us along more than the wind but we persevered and by 1300 hours we were on a close reach and had doubled our speed! It was just fantastic, and with the wind freshening to a force 4, we got up to 6.3 knots, tacking our way towards the Sporades, on a bright sunny afternoon.

As we neared our chosen anchorage, we had about three bays, each with great looking beaches and plenty of sun loungers with umbrellas decorating them. Nigel, assessed the situation – wind direction, rocks, beach activity (the large one had speed boats with doughnut inflatables and water skiers), the middle one was the safest. As we approached I prepared the anchor, checked through the binoculars and noticed a naked man clearly posing behind a rock, Nigel said not to worry, “we’re going in here”. As I was lowering the anchor all I could see before me was a whole beach full of naked bodies, Banana Beach as we have since discovered is the nudist, or naturist beach. The water was lovely but we did feel strange going for a swim with our costumes on in front of all the naked bodies.
We settled down for evening meal of spaghetti bolognaise at about 8.30pm, the sunset was beautiful and the last naturists had vacated the beach. Just as we thought we were on our own, a male appeared, stripped off and ran with arms out stretched, yelling as he ran into the sea! He then spent the next 15 minutes singing some strange words to a strange song, interspersed with “alles clar”, heloooo while making his way towards us. We didn’t respond and hoped we were too far off for him to reach in the semi-dark. Fortunately he turned back, dressed and disappeared!
We settled down for the night and were rudely awakened at precisely 4 am by the wind which had been totally benign, and was now really whipping up, so much that we had completely changed position and were now facing the other way round and hoping that our faithful anchor Hercules would hold us fast once more as the rocks were now behind us. The wind strength had increased to F6 gusting 7.
I wasn’t keen to raise the anchor as the swell was pretty bad but Nigel said we should get out of there and head around the island to a more sheltered position where it would be safer and more comfortable. The thought of it was actually worse than doing it, which is often the case, I just had to hang on to the jib to stop being bounced about, or overboard.
Moving closer to Skiathos town shortly.
The Sporades adventure has begun.

Tues 1st into Wed 2nd July

The sun must have got to me. The last time I typed the date as the 1st June.
Off to the Port Authority/Coastguards office, where we hand over our 18.16 Euro’s for the bridge toll. The young lady told us to be on “standby,” from 2130 hrs as there was a possibility that the bridge could be opened between then, and 0300 hrs. The tide that passes under the bridge is so vicious and potentially dangerous that they have to judge carefully when it is safe to open the bridge and apparently there is no way of being certain of the time in advance. (These dangerous currents are mentioned by many ancient sources: Livy, Cicero, Pliny and Strabo commented on them and tradition has it that Aristotle flung himself into the channel because of his inability to explain the phenomenon!) She said we would be given a call on the VHF for 10 minutes notice to proceed to the area before the bridge and then another call giving permission to go through.
We did our last bit of stocking up. Filled our tanks up with water. Prepared dinner, and went for a beer at the yacht club clubhouse to pass some time. Our neighbour Dimitrious was keen to share some tips on good anchorages he had found in the places we would be travelling to. The people we meet are so friendly, helpful and very kind. A few days previously he was offering us a lift into Athens to visit Skordilis, Raymarine office as he said it was near to where he worked.
2130 hrs came and went without any VHF call, so we had dinner and tried to snooze in the cockpit. We had prepared ourselves well to be off the pontoon within about 2 minutes as we knew we would have to be very quick to get to the bridge area from the yacht club in time.
The call came at 0215 hrs – adrenalin rushing through the veins now! I tried to be as calm as possible, the only way I can achieve that is to keep quiet and let Nigel concentrate and not keep asking stupid questions. We were off and motoring when we had a second call asking asking our position, Nigel told them we were 3 minutes from the Bridge, they said ok. We were watching eagerly to see if the bridge had opened. There was a row of bright blue lights all the way across so it was fairly clear to see whether it was closed. The next call came through to proceed and as we were getting closer we could see no row of blue lights, so knew it had just been opened. We passed through at nearly 5 knots 0235 hrs and there was a Port official by the side of the bridge to monitor us going through. We waved and voiced our thanks. Although the bridge is 129 feet wide it still seems very narrow as you pass through the middle. Even at that time of the morning we were amazed at how many people were about and watching us go through, some even took pictures. That’s it, we’re on the other side, we had done it!!! We’d been in Khalkis for a week and never seen the bridge open, but watched the tide whooshing and churning through wondering what it would be like.

I must say we were relieved to have left the oppressive hot house of the Khalkis Yacht Club, our equipment hopefully fixed and also we are looking forward to pushing on to our next destination and getting some breeze.

Dimitrious had told us that two miles after the bridge we should see a large hotel on the left. That would be a good place to anchor for the rest of the night. We found it easily although it was a very dark night. Dropped anchor and went to sleep.

After a good few hours sleep, a welcome breeze we raise the anchor and are off by 1030 hrs. Heading for Limni under motor as the wind is on the nose. At 1345 hrs we we able to sail with the jib out, F4 wind on the beam. We arrive at 1445 hrs and negotiate the narrowest entrance to the tiniest of harbours. My first instinct was to tell Nigel to back out, there’s no space! Then I noticed that we could moor along side the concrete quay. We had prepared for every eventuality with ropes, fenders and anchor at the ready, glided (that doesn’t sound good English) into the quayside, tied up and observed a very pretty, newish little harbour and sleepy looking very Greek small town. After a nice late lunch and siesta to catch up on some lost sleep, we took a walk along the waterfront. At the far end, we found a small hole in the rock face which had been made into a chapel with candles and religious icons all over the walls, so small in fact that you couldn’t stand upright inside it. Then, we came across a man who was in the process of washing 5 medium size octopus which he had caught. He told us he had caught 4 in the morning, smaller ones, and he sells them to a local Taverna. On the way back there were one or two shops open, we bought some vegetables and kilo of loose rice out of a sack, it was much cheaper than supemarket stuff. Back to Janika for our evening meal and a good night’s sleep.

Thurs 3rd July
We let go from the berth at 1000 hrs and the only way out was to reverse due to lack of space.
By 1030 we were on a beautiful broad reach with full jib sheet set. For the first hour the wind speeds were all over the place, we struggled but persevered and were rewarded after about an hour and half with a F3 most of the time and F4 later – ideal sailing conditions for me, I enjoyed the whole day. It seems a long time since we have had such a good sail. Also, we are getting low on fuel so any sailing we can do is a bonus. We aim to fill up at Skiathos.
Nigel has sussed out a few anchorages and he chooses the best for the wind direction at Ak. Lithadha, on the island of Evia. Anchor dropped close to the beach. Nigel has taken to going swimming shortly after we anchor to check out how the anchor is situated. As soon as he got into the water I heard a few yelps, he was swimming with jellyfish. A quick check of the anchor and chain and out for a shower off the swimming platform. I decided not to take the plunge on this occasion!

Monday 30th June

We have been here in Khalkis since last Wednesday and believe there may be a glimmer of hope today that the Raymarine technician could turn up. Although we have no firm reason to believe that due to the fact that when Nigel called them at 10 am they told us a technician would be leaving in half an hour, it is apparently 1 and half hours drive from their offices so if what we were told was true the technician should have been here around midday. It is now 2pm!
However, there is something happening because George called earlier and asked if Nigel could ‘mail all the warranty numbers through which he duly scurried off to the internet café and sent them through. We have just received another call from a female who asked us for more numbers and could we produce the bill of sale. So, Nigel has scurried off again to send another e’mail – over the phone is not good enough.
Last Friday we sent a brief courteous e’mail to the MD of Raymarine in Athens. He replied saying that if we were in Athens we should expect to wait a few days but as we were further away it was only reasonable to expect to wait longer. We replied ok, fine, but can anyone give us an indication of how long please.

We have grown to quite like Khalkis over the last few days although we were slightly perturbed to discover on our arrival here that the Bridge, which we have to pass through had been out of action, an electrical problem, and impassable for over a week and there was no knowledge of when it might be repaired. So there were we eager to get here and if we had, we would have been hanging about anyway. The bridge underwent trials on Thursday and it was opened again on Friday night, we believe, so all is well again. Boats have to pay the coastguard depending on tonnage. The coastguard then calls you up on VHF to tell you to get ready to proceed through. Currently the time for opening is about 0030 hrs because they judge when it is safest due to the fast flowing current. It actually looks quite scary to see it whooshing through and churning around. We will have to be on our mettle and watchful of the many little boats, fishing, drifting about.

We are staying in Khalkis yacht club, which is good for us, as we have electricity and water at our disposal. The only downside is the heat, on this, the south side of the bridge, is very enclosed and a real suntrap and we are enduring temperatures at 0800 of 28 degees, midday around 34 and by 1700 they have reached 38 degrees and those are temperatures in the shade, in Nigel’s cupboard! We took the barometer on deck and it reached 53.7 in direct sunlight before it started to distort the screen so we promptly brought it back into the shade. I don’t believe either of us has ever felt so hot, even in India. We bought a fan the other day just to circulate some air around which has helped. When the sun goes down it is a relief.
The Commodore of the yacht club introduced himself the night we arrived. Stelios, he is a Greek Australian, having lived in Brisbane for many years. He was very welcoming and said we could stay as long as there was the space available. His main concern, was whether their big regatta would still take place as it is held on the north side of the bridge and with it being faulty, all was in jeopardy. He is a happy man now though as all is looking well.

The boat is provisioned up, all the washing up to date, if the technician turns up and the weather forecast looks good then we will be off tonight to face the “other side”.

Tuesday 1st June

As you may have guessed there was no technician at 3pm, 4pm or even 5pm. By 6pm I was completely exasperated and fit to assault somebody. After a few words to Nigel, he eventually managed to get hold of Mr Skordilis himself (of Skordilis S A, agent of Raymarine). To cut a long story short we were told that a technician would be with us today at 11 am.
Bingo, he arrived at 1030!
He has re-calibrated our autopilot and rectified the discrepancies on some of the other pieces of equipment. We even went out for a test sail to check the auto was functioning correctly and to see what the deviation was. We can only hope that what he has done has solved our issues. Only time will tell. Neither of us is overly optimistic.
Anyway the only thing to hold us back now is the weather, so we will download this update now, pay the coastguards for the permit to cross through the bridge tonight (probably around 1-2am) and will catch up with you in a few days.

Hello again at last…….
For those of you that view the log regularly, (including Nick my son, who sent a text asking if we were still alive!!) we have to apologise for not updating the log any quicker, but since the last update on the 11th in Serifos, we have been at anchor.
That is apart from one night when we moored stern too up against a tiny concrete harbour wall in Porto Rafti. A French couple came along one side shortly after, then a charter boat with 5 Germans on the other side (you can imagine Nigel’s stance – roll out the canons Karen and prepare to attack, we’re surrounded!!!). He’s all talk really! He kindly assisted them in with their ropes, which wasn’t easy for them, shorthanded on their boat. Neither of the two boats got in easily which made us feel very proud of our own achievement without assistance. Anyway, the harbour wall proved too uncomfortable with the swell and although our anchor had a good hold, the swell was vicious, and the wind was getting up. All the boats” crew were on deck from 4 am to keep vigil. One by one each boat managed to extricate themselves at speed from the wall – to daly would have been more dangerous as the boat would have swung and got into more bother, it just meant that you had to raise your anchor as quickly as you could until clear of the other boats. We were the last to depart so didn’t have to worry about that.
As I write today, Tuesday 24th June, we don’t know what is in store for us. We are now convinced we have are riding out the Meltemi winds, and we also believe we have had strong Katabatic winds thrown in for good measure! For the last 5 days we have had wind speeds of up to F6 gusting 7. We are running out of food, down to our last 2 slices of bread, a cup of milk, water is rationed so no showers allowed and dishes only washed once a day. If we are still here tomorrow we will have to make some water but we are in 3 metres depth so unless desperate I would rather avoid it until needs must. The reason being, that making water so close to the sea bed risks us sucking in water mixed with sand and debris which would harm our filters.
We are in good spirits considering. Must thank Jutta and Kerry again for their kind gift of Travel Scrabble. It is being well used at the moment, it is amazing how many 2 letter words we have never heard of! Nigel keeps beating me so I must become a better tactician as I keep setting him up beautifully with double and triple word scores. Who has heard of ZO = Himalayan cattle, or XI = a letter in the Greek alphabet, or even UG = to loathe. There are many more. Our next addition to our bookcase will be a dictionary.
Our Navtex onboard forecasting kit is not communicating as we would like, probably because we are too close to land. One of the best things we have done this year is to invest in a Greek Sim Card for our mobile phone. Nigel sends a text message with our coordinates and within seconds we get a text back giving three forward forecasts for the next series of 6 hours.





Wednesday 11th June
We dropped anchor at 1500 hrs in Livadhi Bay on the Island of Serifos and watched several yachts jostling for position on the small pontoon. There are many times when you weigh up the situation and decide that anchoring is by far the quieter and hassle free option. Having said that, we ended up swinging on our anchor with thirteen other boats that evening, three of who were full of noisy German males (at least 15 of them) on charter boats who had to anchor due to lack of space on the pontoon. They spent the next couple of hours larking about on their dinghies between boats. For us it can be great spectator sport. The incident, which really made me laugh when I realised what they had done, was when one lad was standing upright as if to attention at the front of the dingy wearing something like a round green mask over the whole of his head with holes for mouth and eyes. It took a while before I realised that they must have scrapped out the insides of a watermelon and it fitted over his head – what imagination! We had peace and quiet while they all went ashore for evening meal and drinks.

Awake to a beautiful calm Thursday morning. Rowed ashore in our dinghy and tied it to a cypress tree. It was only a short walk into the town area and the local bus just happened to be sitting waiting to go up the Hora (there was nowhere else to go). So, after 15 minutes of twisting and turning on the winding roads we reached the top. Nigel was sitting next to a chatty Greek gent who’s name was Giorgio who spoke good English due to the fact he had spent some time in Southend on Sea from 1961 -81, he was now retired and back home to this incredible place. On the way up the hill he pointed out the local hospital which was very small, several men got on there, seems they had either been for a check-up or prescription, everyone on the bus knew each other and there was a lot of chat at that point and some very touching gestures, one man had his arm round another’s shoulders with great affection as if holding him safely on the seat. Giorgio said he knew who Ellie was and said he would show us where she lived, however when we reached the top of the hill he went for a coffee with his chums and we were left wondering ……… We decided to walk up to the very top where a church sits right up there as close to God as you can get here. The views were spectacular (hope you can see what we mean with one of Nigel’s photo’s). When we returned to the small town square Giorgio was still sitting with his chums and he told us that he had asked around and the general consensus was that Ellie was in Athens, another of her homes, and was expected back on the island around the end of June. Never mind, it would have been amazing had we managed to meet up again.
Back down to the bay again we picked up some provisions, found an Internet café and downloaded the latest edition of the log. Back on the dinghy to Janika for a late lunch. We had a swim in the afternoon, the water is still cold as far as I am concerned and it takes me an age to get in, the temperature is rising though and recorded 18.7 degrees. Warmer than when Jacqueline and David braved the water at 15.3 degrees. I inspected the anchor to see how it was dug in and followed the chain back to the boat, I was shocked to see that the keel was very close to the sandy seabed, I mean there was only a foot to eighteen inches below our keel, I shouted to Nigel who didn’t believe me and got his leadline out to check! I wasn’t joking! It seems that there are gremlins in our raymarine equipment again as we had our instruments set to measure the depth under the keel and now it was registering the depth from the waterline. It could have been very unpleasant for us. I remember at one point when we were coming in to anchor, I said to Nigel, “if you get any closer to the beach, we’ll be on it!” Little did I realise how close to the truth those words were.
Nigel spent time during afternoon changing the fuel filter on the generator.

Friday 13th
Forecasts look reasonable so we are going to move on and find another bay on the north of the island to stop for lunch. Before we weighed anchor Nigel went ashore to get some fresh bread and gin (the most important items). We enjoyed a leisurely sail in F3/4’s, making water along the way. Dropped anchor at 1300 and sheltered from the predicted southerlies. The rest of the day was very lazy.

Saturday 14th
1140 weighed anchor and we set off for the next Cycladic island of Kithnos (approx 12 miles) under motor due to lack of wind.
While we are motoring it generates hot water, which means I can do a little washing (if we have sufficient water) it also means we can have a hot shower and the hot water tank seems to retain the water temperature for a long while, if you are really frugal there can still be enough water to wash the breakfast dishes. Everything we do seems to bear a consequence and each action thought out as to the implication it might have on something else.
We arrived at Ay Ioannis, looks very nice but lots of weed on the bottom. We are not happy with our anchor hold in case of a blow (that was after Nigel went in to inspect it with snorkel and goggles). He then spent the next two hours laying our kedge anchor using the dingy to drop it in sand and then relay the main anchor. Between fighting with the wind direction and the weight of the chain for two hours, I have to admire his determination to succeed with his plan, meanwhile I just stood helping as necessary (not doing much really) and getting sunburned on the bow. At one point Nigel had so much chain I was worried about him letting it go, getting it wrapped round his legs and being dragged to the bottom of the seabed. As you might tell I was not totally comfortable with the experience, although we did learn a lot about what you can and can’t do and how to go about it (at least I think Nigel did). A well earned G & T was called for after that episode.

Sunday 15th – Tuesday 17th
Anchor lifted at 1012am. We had received a good recommendation from Bernie and Peter (who’s Nauticat we rafted alongside in Santorini) to go to Loutra, which is still on the Island of Kifnos but the north side.. We had a lot of fun and games today trying to find a good spot to anchor in as it must be one of the most popular places we have come across yet. Power boats, motor cruisers and yachts of all sizes and description were here and many had anchored stern to and taken ropes to tie on to the nearby rocks, the big cruisers have crew on board already in dinghy’s ready to do the necessary with the ropes. It’s not so easy when there is just two of you to achieve the same sort of security of position. The first cove was very weedy and our anchor did not get a really good hold (Nigel swam out to check again). The second bay our anchor kept dragging and after three attempts we abandoned it as the position amongst the other boats was too tight. We then dropped anchor close in and after a tense fifteen minutes left there again as the swell was too uncomfortable and was pushing us ever closer to rocks. The last place we dropped our anchor near to a 100 foot motor cruiser and just waited, as it was near to 6pm we were hoping that some of the smaller power boats would be only day trippers. Our wait was rewarded as we watched several boats close in to the beach up their anchors and head off home. We dropped the anchor in sand and secured a fantastic position. I had already made a promise (foolishly) to Nigel if we got a good position I would swim ashore with a line to tie to a tree on the beach! After much fuss about 10 minutes later I managed to get myself into the water (temp registering 18.3 degrees) and swam ashore with the line while Nigel payed it out to me. We are feeling very smug indeed with ourselves and don’t think we will move from here for a while as it really is quite beautiful. The water is crystal clear, a small stoney beach with about half a dozen trees on it, no houses in view just the loud noise of millions of crickets – in fact we have renamed this Cricket Cove. You can also hear the sound of goats and sheep high up on the hillside.
The next day we took the dinghy around to Loutra town (about one and a half miles away). We have never taken the dinghy so far away from Janika. The big 100 foot cruiser was still there so we trusted that Janika would be in good safe company as there were plenty of crew. The sea was as flat calm as you can get so the only problem was riding the wake of the power boats as they roared passed. Loutra was a small, quite pretty place but we only stopped long enough to collect a few provisions before making our way back across the bay again in our dinghy. We also managed to dispose of our rubbish, which after several days at anchor is beginning to accumulate.
We spent the next couple of days swimming, snorkelling and watching boats come and go, it was so calm we were enjoying the tranquillity of the place. Nigel gave Jenny, our generator an oil change, and I think we may have fixed our constantly running freezer with the help of a phone call to the manufacturers in Sweden. Let’s hope so anyway as it’s constant running is draining our batteries which means that Jenny has to go on to keep them topped up and we are awake regularly now at about 3 am to check the battery levels, and either switch the freezer off or switch jenny on!
Tuesday was a glorious day, the sea was like glass, so calm, our water temperature guage suddenly was recording temperatures of 30.2 degrees (???? This cannot be correct – another gremlin all of a sudden?) We even made water while at anchor, another thing we have not done before but the water is so clear and clean we hope it will be ok, Crystal will reject it if she’s not happy. We had dinner around 8pm after watching the sun go down behind the mountain,the which instantly gives some relief from the high temperatures. At 8.30 Nigel hears our Navtex transmitting and went to see if it was the weather forecast. It was. Warning of F7 gales in the next 24 hours in our sea area. After a short discussion we decided we had the opportunity to get across to the island of Evia.
Nigel took the dinghy ashore to untie us from the tree, anchor lifted and we were away from our lovely spot in Kifnos at 2130 hrs.
Quickly noticed our autopilot was 40 degrees out again, forcing us to steer manually for the next 8 hours through the night. At least it kept us awake. And the traffic passing by around us as we crossed one of the busiest shipping routes kept us alert too. We tried to use the radar but because the autopilot wasn’t working the heading on the radar was incorrect which made the use of it’s tracking ability dangerous. This is the last straw – first chance we have, we will call Raymarine to discuss all the problems we are having with their equipment.
We arrived at the Island of Evia, and tried several times to find a suitable spot to anchor but in the dark everything looks much closer and more hazardous so we decided to dodge around until first light at approx 5.30 am when we approached a nice circular bay and laid our anchor to one side of it. The weather was calm and the water glassy smooth. We promptly fell asleep.

Wed 18th June - anchored in Ormos Vlikho, waiting for the forecast F7 gale. Nice spot with many goats coming and going around the bay, all wearing bells. Sounds like wind chimes tinkling. A man swam over to us for a chat, proudly announcing he was 80 years of age and that the name of this bay was called Porto Elafi (meaning deer as it had the shape of a deer). He asked us lots of questions before swimming back to shore with a small length of wood which he was using as a float.
Called Raymarine and outlined all our issues, they were very concerned saying it sounded like we had software bugs in the system amongst other things and said they would make plans to get to us, to replace and rectify the problems. We asked if they had an agent in Skiathos, which is where we were heading and they promptly told us it was too dangerous for us to proceed! Very funny! We should wait for them to call back.
No adverse weather appeared today, apart from the heat 34.3 in the shade, too hot.

Thurs 19th June - Decided we would motor across the stretch of water between Evia and the mainland (about 15 mles), to Porto Rafti. This would make it much easier for the Raymarine guys to get to us.
The story of today is at the top of the page.

Friday 20th June - Nigel’s birthday. Awake from 4am, we watched the sun rise at 6am, while watching Janika, the French and German boats being tossed about close to the harbour wall.
I went ashore to grab some provisions from the tiny store nearby, bread, milk and some salad. It was hazardous getting on and off the boat using the plank due to the movement. We were getting out of there asap! A man and his wife stopped to talk as we were leaving and suggested a better alternative to where we had planned, round the corner where they were. We took their advice and within half an hour were anchored again, swinging freely. We made plans to go ashore later and have a Hagen Daz treat for Nigel’s birthday but the weather changed mid afternoon and we didn’t want to risk it as it was too rough to use the dinghy. I cooked Nigel Scarapini (scorpion fish) with onions, tomatoes and potatoes.

Sat 21st June - We had spoken to Raymarine and asked if they could meet us further up on Evia as we were eager to get to a better place. So, we headed back over the other side again further up from where we had come on the 19th. We were hopeful of better shelter given the direction of the wind. As we crossed head into the wind it was heavy hard going and the wind was getting stronger. We struggled to secure a good anchor hold and after three attempts were reasonably happy with the hold although by now the winds were reaching 29.5 knots gusting 33 +. Forecasts coming through – not good.

Sun 22nd June - Difficult night, awake most of it. With violent gusts F7/8. We moved position to get a little more shelter but have since discovered there is little shelter to be had anywhere at the moment. A difficult day, sitting watching the weather tossing around in an arc of 80 degrees. We recorded 39.9 wind speeds which really pushed the side of the boat. Towards the end of the afternoon we kidded ourselves that “outside” looked a bit calmer and the wind had moderated a bit to F4’s and gusting 5’s. After some discussion we decided to get out of this bay and try to move further up the coast of Evia. As we approached the main sea area and put our nose into the wind it was Horrible, the swell and the wind made it completely untenable for us to head northwards so we quickly turned around and headed south which was decidedly more comfortable but still worse than we had expected. Within one hour we were anchored safely in our original bay Osmos Vlikho or Porto Elafi – we are now going backwards in our journey and getting nowhere.

Mon 23rd June - Still no change in weather winds varying from 4’s through to gusts of 7. The only positive thing is that we are quite comfortable that our anchor is well dug in and we are close to land and can see the odd person going about their daily routines. The wind farms are high above us on the top of the mountains and must be generating super power with these winds.
We are still waiting for Raymarine to contact us and confirm that they are coming to see us on Wednesday.
The winds have been raging all day and kept us awake quite a lot of the night too. We are beginning to wonder when they will ever cease. The forecast shows no signs of change yet.

Tuesday 24th - Another blustery day, can’t believe it can get any worse but just as you think the winds are easing another tremendous gust comes rushing down the mountain and sends us swinging around on our anchor. We had our last two eggs for breakfast and that leaves just 2 slices of bread, we skipped lunch and had half a large pizza with parmesan pasta (sounds disgusting) or dinner, when I told Nigel we should save the other half of the pizza for breakfast you should have seen the look on his face! But when he realised it was that or nothing, it didn’t seem so bad.
By 9pm the winds had definitely eased down to F4 with the occasional 5 gust. You could see the sea state changing inside our bay. We even debated taking a peek outside the bay but had both had a couple of glasses of wine and decided we were only fooling ourselves. We agreed to set our alarm for 5 am and if the winds and sea were the same we would try to break free at first light. The forecast was not heartening so we didn’t get our hopes up, predicting F5 at 0800hrs, F6 at 1400 hrs and by our experience these predictions had been lesser than the reality. The one thing we did differently was to send a text for the forecast 30 miles up the coast to our destination and the forecast came back F3’s and 4’s – interesting! It seems like the weather is centred around the S. Evia area and we are probably sitting in the middle of it!

- (Karen is just taking a shower, so I’ll complete the day. Nigel)

Wed 25th - I awoke at 2am and conditions looked reasonable, but, discretion being the better part of valour, plus, I didn’t think I would get Karen up, I turned over and tried to sleep.
At 05.40 the winds definitely looked improved. Can you believe that even at this time in the morning it was 28.3 degrees?
Anchor was aweigh at 05.55, although it did take some tugging to remove from the sea bed. I guess it had been dug in well. Quite reassuring really.
By 07.00 we were clear of the bay and any shelter and were pleased to be motoring, (the wind was ‘on the nose’ before anyone says, “why were you not sailing?”)
And importantly, the swell was a nice gentle roll, and Janika rose and fell as each new wave came through, and kept up a good steady 5.5 knots speed over the ground, so we were fine.
A bit more swell as we passed through the narrowish gap on our way through the islands, and we tacked our way along to keep up speed, and save us and Janika from too much heavy pitching.
By now, we were so glad we left O. Vlikho, and were making good progress. I was even grateful for the cold slice of pizza left from last night
During the morning we took it in turns to have a shower and freshen up. Karen doesn’t realise how much she has progressed, but even crossing over ferries both ways, she was quite happy for me to go down below, and shower while she not only helmed, (because the auto pilot wasn’t working) but navigated and steered us through the traffic.
At around 12.30 we made our approach into the first large bay, through a narrow gap with only 6m depth, and passed by several large bulk carriers awaiting there turn to load up at the cement works. We passed a shipyard too. And at the end, under the rather nice, but now typical, newly designed and built road bridge. (Looks a bit like the newest Severn Bridge, with its ‘sail effect’) Sounds lovely!
Once through, under the bridge. Phew! It might have been 36m high, which is close to double janika’s height at 18m, but your heart still does a little flutter as you pass underneath, hoping that the information is correct. (Didn’t help steady the nerves when Karen said, “let’s hope the Pilot Book information is not in feet!”)
Once under we prepared our mooring lines for a “stem to” berthing, as that’s what the guide said they used in the yacht club we were approaching. So, we also needed to prepare our kedge anchor (the one at the back) as well, and we hadn’t had much practice with that, so we discussed how we would manage it all, as we approached a nice looking little cove on the edge of Khalkis.
In the end, as we got close to the wooden harbour edge, nobody came out to help, but we saw a buoy, and realised we could use a lazy line. So no need for the kedge. Good.
We took the last place available, and squeezed ourselves into it. A bit tricky, as once we got hold of the buoy, we found it was attached directly to a chain (heavy) and then as Karen jumped onto another boat and took our bow line. She pulled us in as I loosened off on the stern line to allow Janika to move gently forward into a snug little berth. Great.
G & T’s was a must. After two glasses of water because we were both hot wet and sticky, and short of fluids. Not surprising with temperatures of 36 degrees. Far too hot.
Karen must tell you about this place, but it will have to wait until another day. We must go now, and get some provisions before it gets too hot. And we have just heard the bugles play reveille on the parade ground across the road. 08.00 Thursday – Nigel

Apologies for this epic, but we will try very hard not to get stuck for so long again.

Saturday 7th June

Since we left Lefkas we have been communicating with Mike and Helen on their big Nauticat, you may remember we met them while we were on the hard, working on the boat before she was lowered into the water. Mike was a comfort with weatherforecasts on the night of the gale at Mezapo (which seems like ages ago now), and the last e’mail they sent said they were were about to leave Lefkas heading for Turkey, so we knew they would be crossing through the Cyclades at the same time as us. To cut a longer story short. We told them we were headed to the Island of Syros that sits roughly at the centre of the Cyclades. It is the capital. We agreed to meet at Ermoupoulis and gave Mike the coordinates of the Marina.

So we bade farewell to our lovely friends Peter and Diana, having coffee with them before we left. Diana bought us some strawberries for the journey (they were absolutely delicious thankyou). 11.25 Clear of the Marina. Once out of the harbour the sails were unleashed and we sailed on a beautiful beam reach in 10 knots of wind doing around 6 knots. It is so refreshing when you can sail comfortably and, enjoyably with enough wind not to worry and when it is in the right direction. And it’s all for free! Even better. We also topped our tanks up with Crystal our watermaker doing a sterling job; she has worked very hard already this season so we should give her filters a clean before long. As we were sailing along Mike called us up on the VHF to say they had tied up alongside the harbour wall in Syros and that it wasn’t too great. Nigel checked the pilot guide and found a little bay about 2 miles before Syros so we went in to recce it. It looked perfect, so we motored to meet Mike and discuss whether they liked the idea of anchoring in the bay at Nisos Gaidharos. They had benefited from their Syros stop as the fuel man had turned up with his little tanker and filled them up. They also managed to fill up with water so decided that the anchorage was a top idea. Off we went.

We had two good nights in the little bay, enjoying each other’s company once again. We even rowed ashore on Sunday and walked to the now disused lighthouse, leaving the boats at anchor. We disturbed the seagulls as we walked and they were squawking and squalling at us invading their patch.

On Monday 9th we had decided to head back into Ermoupoulis on Siros as we believed that it may be worth a look. Also, we had not managed to get the Coastguard to stamp us out of Naxos, due to the fact that their office was closed and he had been adamant that we should check out one hour before departure! We tried on Friday afternoon but the office was closed and Costas the Marina Guard looked at our papers and said it would be ok. Nevertheless Nigel was not comfortable so a stamp in and out of Ermoupoulis would reassure him that we did not have to return to Naxos. If we did have to return, then better to know sooner than later. We tied up alongside again with Mike and Helen and all went our separate ways and agreed to meet up later on in another bay on the Island called Finikas which would provide good shelter from a predicted F6 coming along. On our walk into the town we found a little chandlery shop and acquired spare filters for the engine and generator. Found the harbour master/coastguard office and for the sum of 10 euros and the priviledge of an afternoon stop and a stamp in and out, our papers were all present and correct! Nigel can stop worrying now.

The town is famous for it’s Loukoumi (like Turkish delight), so we bought some to try it out. I also found a fantastic Co-op shop close to the boat and went a little mad, it’s the best supermarket I have come across since Lefkas.

Off once again to Finikas. We sailed all the way there with only half the gib sheet alone with one knot of current pushing us along. Mike had left a few hours earlier but we were in no hurry as wind was for free and we also were topping up with more water enroute. Therefore by the time we arrived and phoned Mike for advice on available spare on the pontoon, it was pretty full. He managed to negotiate a space in between an 84 foot yacht and an Italian motor cruiser with both lots of crew on hand to assist us in as it was tight tight tight!!!! We had to do a Mediterranean moor stern to and the first attempt didn’t work too well because Tim on the 84 footer started to panic in case we had gone over his anchor chain so asked us to relay, in fact he asked if he could come out on his dinghy to show us where to lay our anchor, I said ok. 2nd attempt we did a good job between us, especially Nigel as it was blowing a bit, but we ran out of chain 5 metres from the wall! Blast, our anchor had such a good hold that I just couldn’t get the extra needed. Anchor reeled in again 3rd time lucky. Tim seemed to know about the 50 metres distance from his own experience coming in so told us when to drop and all went well this time with both boats fending us in beside them. We gave grateful thanks and secured our lines. When the Marina guard came to give us the necessary form he told us we were too close to the wall (we were about 5 feet off) because there was a surge due between 7.50 and 8.10 ?? Couldn’t tell us any more than that. I asked Tim about it and apparently there had been a mysterious surge, which was described as horrendous. The previous evening a man 5 boats down had been trying to protect his passarelle and had lost three toes, severed instantly when the passarelle had crashed into the wall OUCH!
Some brave person retrieved them after the surge but the hospital said they were too flattened to stitch back. We all waited worriedly counting the minutes till 7.50 and then through till 8.10 and nothing untoward tonight thankfully.

Later on we took a walk around Finikas bay and stopped for a light meal in a Taverna, the service was so bad that we would have walked out but for the entertainment value of the one lady who was rushing in and out of the kitchen, sometimes running. A cross between Manuel (Fawlty Towers) and Dawn French (she actually quite looked like her but was wearing very tight fitting leggings and top causing everything to wobble as she rushed about – what a shame). It must have taken at least half an hour for us to get a drink!

We managed to get a replacement gas bottle the next day before we departed at 10.10 am. Bade farewell to Mike and Helen and hoped to meet up in the autumn. Thanked Tim for his assistance and wished him well with his prospective passengers as he is tying to make a go of chartering his boat. We’re off to Serifos today.

We have dreamed about Serifos for 4 years, ever since we chartered a boat in Greece in 2003 and met a lady named Ellie in Monemvasia and had a fantastic evening with her, and her partner Louis and another couple in a small restaurant. She said that she lived in Serifos and that it was a very beautiful island, she said “if you come, just ask anybody where Ellie lives and they will tell you – they all know me”. We thought it possible that we may arrive on a charter boat or even perhaps ferry but never in our wildest dreams would we have imagined then that we would be sailing into Livadhi Bay in Serifos in our own boat.

We had a fabulous sail all the way from Finikas to the entrance of Livadhi on a broad reach, even reaching speeds of 7.2 (over the ground) including a knot of current – and that was only on the gib! I hate to think what we could have done on full sails but probably too much heeling for me. When we reached the entrance to Livadhi the wind picked up so much that I had a major panic and we reeled in the gib and motored the last mile. The brave sailors in front of us had full sails and were racing but heeling at a horrible looking angle – not for me yet I’m afraid to say. I long for the day when I feel that the boat will not capsize. We arrived to the most glorious of bays in a circular shape with one small pontoon for boats to tie up against. We quickly decided that with 4 boats in front of us heading for the pontoon, our preference was to anchor in the bay. Karen.

Saturday 31st May – Saturday 7th June

NAXOS is the largest and most fertile of the Cyclades. From the sea the west coast appears rocky and bare but inland the island is wooded and cultivated. The island is mountainous throughout with two high peaks: the summit being Mt Zeus. In the interior valleys the slopes are terraced and olives, citrus orchards and cypresses grow. The lower plains are cultivated with figs, vines and market gardens. Dionysus, the God of the vine, blessed Naxos with great fertility and good wine. We have purchased a box but not have yet sampled it, however at 6.5 Euros we shouldn’t expect too much.

For the ladies – Naxos is the island where Theseus abandoned Ariadne on his way back to Athens from Crete. It was with Ariadne’s help that Theseus penetrated the labyrinth and slew Ariadne’s half-brother the Minotaur. Ariadne, in love with Theseus and he apparently in love with her, sailed away from Crete and the first place they landed was Naxos. Just why he abandoned her has always puzzled the scholars. However, luckily Dionysus landed on the island and they fell in love at first sight. She bore the gentle Dionysus lots of children. A happy ending.

We have had a truly memorable week in Naxos. We booked in with the harbourmaster, Costas, to stay until Wednesday to be sheltered for the predicted winds, which did arrive as forecast. We liked it so much that we stayed for a few more days, we both feel that if we hadn’t left when we did that we might have bought a small property and stayed forever! It’s all about people and places, if the two components are right then you have the potential makings of a very happy existence.

Enough mythology and musing, back to our marina/harbour in Naxos town! It is a harbour where there is lots of spectator sport to be had. The harbour authorities placed concrete blocks with chain on the seabed in readiness to fit lazy lines to the quayside. Not sure when they did this but they haven’t bothered to finish the job they started. As a consequence you still have to lay your anchor and do a Mediterranean mooring in the middle pontoons so you end up with anchors fouled with the tackle on the bottom, which can only be extricated with the assistance of a diver (unless you are prepared to go down yourself). This diver apparently costs the authorities 80 euros every time he is called, commonsense would say it would be cheaper to sort the problem out so that it didn’t occur! What I found amusing was that the diver Vassilis came to the rescue in his boat called Happiness. You can imagine the frustration as one expects to depart only to find out you are stuck firmly to the bottom and have to wait until Vassilis arrives which could be 15 minute, 1 hour or more.
There are a variety of ferries that come and go throughout the day creating a bit of wash. Naxos also looks like a stop off place for the Turkish gullets which are pretty impressive galleon type of boats of varying sizes.

Our surrounding neighbours were Jacques and Louise a French Canadian couple from Quebec sailing their steel boat called “Mayero”. Jacques, a very talented singer/songwriter/producer and a thoroughly happy man who’s raucous chuckles could be heard along the pontoon, a seaman with ambitions to cruise around the Carribean in the near future. Louise, his very beautiful wife who was too modest about her English speaking capabilities, with no good reason, compared with our French speaking abilities! They will winter their boat in Preveza which is just round the corner from Lefkas so we may well meet up next April.

Then there was Terry and Sue sailing their steel boat called “Mardling”. Mardling is a Norfolk word which means to gossip or chat (as a lot of boaties do). When we say you meet some truly amazing people these two must rate in the top bracket. Terry built his boat (using an Australian steel hull) during his retirement, and has been sailing it ever since. As Sue puts it, he thought it would take 3 years but it took 10 and cost twice as much! I call it a proper boat, totally unique and the work of a very clever man with a background in engineering. They hail from Sherringham in Norfolk and when we visit Nigel’s mum we will most surely pay them a visit (we have been invited – and the cakes are on us).

Last but certainly not least at the end of the pontoon sat “Rainbow”, a newly acquired boat, very proudly owned by Peter and Diana. They must be two of the nicest people you could ever be lucky enough to meet. The words that keep coming to me are, that “people come and go throughout your life and others stay in your hearts forever”. That sums up how we both feel about these two. One regret we have is that we did not manage to have a sail with them and give some encouragement to Diana who has only been out on her boat once, but I am sure that with Peter’s gentle nurturing she will quickly learn the ropes, and be in and out of Naxos harbour with the best of them! Peter and Diana have made Naxos their home over the last twenty years, even bought a plot of land and built their dream home with the most perfect outlook over the sea and adjacent islands. Forget Hello magazine photographing celebrities houses and interiors, this house beats any I’ve seen for sheer style, comfort and homeliness – but that would be too intrusive, best to keep it as a beautiful secret.
(A quick thank you to Peter, who helped me retrieve our anchor in the dingy, after we found a loose lazy line on the adjacent boat, unused. It made the rest of our visit very comfortable, knowing that when the day of departure arrived, we would be able to calmly leave without any of the anchoring difficulties described earlier. -Nigel)

We hired a car for a couple of days and drove up into the mountains. Our first stop as recommended by Peter was at a place called Damalas. We wandered aimlessly through the narrow deserted alleyways and came to a small square with a large tree in the middle of it where a lady was soaking some yarns of sheep wool. As we stood under the tree we moved away quickly because there was a loud humming of bees above us. The lady saw us and began conversing with us in Greek, unfortunately we didn’t know what she was saying but she beckoned us to a small well on one side of the square, lowered her metal bucket into the well, pulled it up and poured us a glass of fresh water from it. Next she beckoned us to the tree where she picked some fruit from it and ate it, handing some to us to do the same. It was like a large raspberry but very pale pinkish white in colour, tasting sweet and very delicious. Diana suggested they were probably mulberries. Maybe they are very rare because we haven’t seen or tasted anything like it before. We thanked her for her kindness and moved on. We spied a sign which said “Old Traditional Olive Press”, we walked into this very old house and there it was in all it’s glory with some history about it in picture frames on the wall. Nigel had a turn on the old stone press wheel and amazingly it still turned. Our last port of call was the potters house, only a brief walk further on. We were welcomed into Limpeteras’s workshop where he was only too happy to show us his pots and threw a pretty impressive one on his wheel while we watched. He was great fun and a great salesman too as we left there about 40 euros lighter!
Driving on we stopped to gather oregano growing wild and fennel too. The spring flowers were so colourful adorning the mountain roads, and the smell of the bright yellow broom, growing profusely was wonderful.
We turned round one corner and were awe struck at the sight in front and above us. A mountain of solid marble! It was being extracted and you could clearly see where the blocks had been removed. Hopefully you will be able to view it from Nigel’s photograph.

It was a good day spent exploring some interesting towns along the way and getting to know Naxos island a lot better. The next day we explored part of the coastline, and getting lost along untarmaced roads. The beaches we found were golden, and completely unspoiled.

There is loads more I could say about Naxos, the town, what we saw and did but I think I have bored you enough so think we will sail on to the next adventure. Karen.

26th May
We made the decision to proceed to Dhia Island, only 6.5 miles across the water and to set off at midday. So, with a quick trip into the town for bread and milk, into the harbour masters office to pay our dues (which must be the most reasonable ever at 7 Euros per night. We have only just realised how lucky we were to have stayed in this little harbour for 7 nights – only due to a couple of boats being still out of the water for repairs. Goodness only knows what people do in the real summer months. I guess they just have to anchor somewhere? After a quick wash down (Janika I mean) we were preparing to let go our lines when one of our Greek neighbours Nikos came to ask if we were leaving and where we were going. After telling him he asked us to wait just a moment, went back onto his boat and returned to present us a bottle of red wine from his own vineyards in Archanes, a town about 10 kms out of Iraklion and renowned as a wine producing region. We were completely overwhelmed by his kindness. He said it was a very romantic wine and that we must drink it together, on our own!

With some trepidation we let go our lines and proceeded to the diesel pontoon. I say with some trepidation as the last time we sailed we had engine failure as we approached Iraklion. Nigel has since changed another diesel filter and hopes that will rectify the problem. Also our autopilot and compass had been about 20 degrees out of alignment ever since the big gales but since being in harbour they look like they have become more compatible (another little mystery).

We motored to Dhia Island to try out the engine; the wind wasn’t strong enough to sail anyway. We were safely anchored just after 2.30 and settled down for a late lunch in this beautiful bay. About half an hour later who should we see coming across to the Island but Tim in his little green Fisher. He anchored fairly close by and we invited him over for a beer. He said he was just going for a swim and to check out his anchor on the seabed with his goggles and snorkel, which he did, then climbed back on board and looked as if he was pottering around doing some jobs. The next thing we knew half an hour later was that he had his engine on; anchor lifted and was motoring towards us. He got so close I was holding on to his guardrails, we exchanged a few pleasantries and asked if he had heard our invitation – he hadn’t!! What a shame, Nigel quickly went down below and handed him a cold Mythos beer for the journey back to Iraklion harbour and said our farewells.

27th May
Such is our excitement that we woke at 5 am and made some tea. We are off to Santorini, approximately 60 miles. We breakfasted, while the sun was coming up and were gently on our way by 6 am. At 7 we closely watched a ferry pass across our bows, much closer than we would have liked! Some of them are incredibly intimidating and hardly give an inch! It is very hard to hold your nerve when one of these beasts travelling at 30 kts is approaching you. We were under sail therefore “Rules of the Road” say that he must give way to us. As we are the “Stand On” vessel we should not alter course so that the oncoming vessel knows exactly what our course and position is and can alter his accordingly. You just hope that someone is watching and that they do alter course!
We continued under full sails on a beam reach – beautiful – until 11.30 when the wind had reduced so much that we had to put the motor on. 4pm saw us approaching Vilchada (Vylchada, Vlikadha) harbour. The pilot book warns you to be cautious due to the underwater rocks and shallow depths before you reach the breakwater, so we took it really slowly and carefully with me on the bow checking for rocks below! These moments are very tense. We rounded the breakwater with the pilot book saying stay close to the breakwater due to the depths and what happened next; we touched the muddy bottom !!!!!!!! During these times I seem to have the good sense to keep quiet and let Nigel do his bit on the helm to get us out of the situation, he very carefully took us back into better depths and proceeded again taking a little wider berth (there wasn’t much room anyway) and the same thing happened again!!!!! Extricating ourselves and surveying the situation regarding berthing it became clear that the only thing to do was to ask permission to come alongside the big 44’ Nauticat that was berthed alongside the harbour wall. Thankfully it was manned by two older gents and was flying the British flag, no problem, they assisted us to raft up against them and we became friends with Bernie and Peter while we spent the next two nights attached to their boat. They had only arrived an hour previous so we invited them to join us for a beer.
Later in the evening, the man who appeared to be responsible for the harbour. (Drives a red car and has a beard. That included about 50% of the males!) was standing on the end of the inner breakwater, warning boats off the shallows which we had found. Where was he before?

28th May
The modern name of Santorini is found in medieval times of the Frankish occupation, deriving from the church of Ayia Eirini (Santa Irene – in Italian).
The caldera, which is the centre of the original volcano is 6miles long and 4 miles wide! It is hundreds of feet deep, and full of water!!!!! Its terrain is volcanic. Nigel is looking forward to sailing out through the Caldera when we leave.
We found there was a bus into Santorini that travelled for about 40 minutes through smaller villages until we reached our destination. Unfortunately there were 3 cruise ships anchored in the Caldera and walking through the streets with about 5,000 tourists is not our idea of enjoyment so we didn’t linger any longer than we had to, but did take the chance to visit two rather nice little chapels. One where we didn’t see, but we heard the nuns singing prayers behind the curtain. We got to the 2pm bus back to our little harbour.
Vilchada is a very quiet little harbour with lots of little fishing boats, very pretty ones, and they come and go all day long so there is lots to watch. Also the dredger is working furiously at one end that looks like they may turn this into a very useful marina one day.

29th May
Farewells and thanks to Bernie and Peter for having us alongside. You never know we may meet somewhere again.
Leaving at 9 am we crossed the bar into the Caldera, this being the crater left by the massive eruption of the volcano 80,000 years ago. Nigel fulfilled his wish and for an hour and a half we enjoyed a very pleasant motor through the caldera. (I wonder how many other volcanos you can sail through?) We took bets on how many cruise ships might be anchored, I said one and Nigel said two – there was two, different ships from the previous day, Costa Fortuna (would you believe) and The Seven Seas from Hamilton. After the Caldera we got full sails out for a short hour, then motored as the wind died down to 2 kts. Later on at 3pm the wind got up enough to F3 and 4’s to have a great sail tacking as we passed through small islands. Good practice for me. Had a nice encounter with two dolphins that came over to see what we were and played around us for 10-15 minutes. These are the magical moments. Anchor dropped at 5pm in a bay NE of Ak. Kolitzani on the Island of Ios. We were on our own in the little bay until a very posh Greek motor cruiser “Oh Que Luna” arrived, dropped it’s anchor and some of the crew took a rope ashore to secure it to rocks so that the motion was steadied. What the passengers must have thought of us rocking around all night I don’t know.

30th May
Destination Naxos about 18 miles, only a short hop. We had a lazy start after a blustery night at anchor and set off at 9.15. By 2pm the swell was pretty bad and wind force 6 once outside the lee of the land.. Nigel was bad too, so we altered our passage plan, to find a closer anchorage on the south coast of Paros, the island adjacent to Naxos. We dropped anchor in a bay on the southern side of Paros called Faranga. It was incredibly beautiful and with a little swell as we managed to get very close into the bay. A few pretty white houses with bouganvilla draped walls and a some goats bleating in a field. It was a joy to see such an unspoiled and undeveloped bay, almost like finding a secret.

31st May
We had a lovely hour’s sail on the genoa alone over to Naxos. The rest was motoring arriving at 1540 hrs and were assisted with our ropes by a French Canadian gentleman named Jacques.

Today is Friday 5th (I think) we are still in Naxos and have met some amazing people who we hope will remain friends forever. I will leave the Naxos story for another day – very soon. Karen.

Sunday 25th May

Tomorrow it will be a week since we arrived in Iraklion. I’m afraid I decided that I couldn’t leave the comforts of this lovely little Marina and venture out in the F5’s and 6’s that have been blowing up here. There are very few visitors boats in the small harbour, all local Greeks and just one Englishman named Tim, who bought a boat named a “Fisher” and has stayed here for the last 3 years making this town his home. All the local boat owners bid us either Yassas or Cala Mera/spera. If we don’t leave soon we also might be in danger of staying! We have got to know Iraklion town very well now, know where the best laundry is, internet café and supermarkets.


The winds have died down today and the forecast looks favourable for going tomorrow. Our plan (at the time of writing) is to set off tomorrow afternoon, and head through the night to Santorini arriving at daylight on Tuesday sometime. The alternative is to travel 6.5 miles to Dhia Island, anchor and set off the following morning at daylight making passage through the day. It all seems to hinge on whether we can get diesel and at what time we get it.

After a few days and once we had completed our “boat jobs” we took the local bus to Knossos which was once the capital of Minoan and ancient Crete, the great palace of King Minos with its mansions and tombs. Neolithic man first lived here in an organised village in 6000BC, and the site has been inhabited ever since without a break for 8000 years. For a thousand years, when it was at it’s peak, Knossos was the first and largest city in Greece and the European continent. (hard to believe now).

We hired a car for two days. It had been our original intention to sail to Spinalonga but here we were driving instead. I had read the novel “The Island” by Victoria Hyslop a couple of years ago and was eager to see it. Spinalonga has a very long history. One of the last and most impressive Venetian Forts was built on this island.
The Cretan authorities also used it as a leper colony from 1904 until 1957. The novel revolves around the island and the leper colony. I found it a very beautiful island but also sad because of what it had been used for.
The novel has had an amazing effect on Plaka, the tiny village across the water from Spinalonga. Regular boat trips, a few nice restaurants and cafes are thriving. One of the restaurant owners told us that Victoria Hyslop had visited his restaurant last year and they had recognised her husband more than her – him being Ian Hyslop. There’s always something to learn along the way.
We covered the mountain regions, valleys, plateau’s and have a real feel for the Cretans and their lovely Island.

Friday 16th

Here we are in Chania, on the Island of Crete (Hania in Greek) after setting off from Lefkas on the 10th. We feel quite a sense of achievement having sailed 286 nautical miles to reach here. I say sailed in loose terms as about 98% of it was probably under motor due to lack of wind or direction of wind or just the need to get somewhere quickly because of bad weather.

Janika is a salty mess. However, priorities before Jacqueline and Dave board this afternoon are to stock up and clean up! Both tiring tasks. Shopping because you generally have to carry very heavy bags, and cleaning up because it is so warm and very manual. It is thoroughly satisfying when we have finished and receive a phone call to say that J & D are just around the corner, literally. Greetings all round and G & T’s on board. Jacqueline has been trying for a year and a half to come on board and finally the time has come so it is exciting for all of us. They have never sailed or been on board a yacht and we have not sailed with any novices before, so our aim is to make their experience a memorable and pleasant one.

We discuss our plans to set off and find a nice anchorage for the night due to a very noisy previous evening. All in favour – yes. After a Greek salad on board for lunch, a walk around some of Chania we raise the anchor at 1720 and depart. I had read about an anchorage in a bay which was described as “paradise” and was keen to try it out, as it was only a couple of hours away. So within reach before sunset. We dropped anchor in Ormos (we guess means Bay) Louraki. Paradise it is not but it is pleasant for the night and more importantly quiet.

Saturday 17th May

Early start anchor aweigh at 0915 after a simple breakfast. Heading for Rethimno for a lunch stop. A gentle motor across the bay – so gentle that we all took turns to shower. J & D both took turns to helm. Jacqueline was a natural even though she couldn’t see above the sprayhood, she was watching what the sails were doing, Another 6 inches would make all the difference, as the actress said to the Bishop! Dave tried too hard, and decided he should try to steer a straight line as the chart plotter indicated and by adjusting his steering to the left and to the right almost had us going round in circles. This is just like Dave, who likes to understand the detail of everything.

We tied up in Rethimno at 1230 alongside the newish concrete quay. The men were despatched for some fresh bread while we girls prepared tuna salad for lunch. We went ashore for a couple of hours walkabout and explored some of the impressive churches along the way. We found a delightful tiny one called St Katherine’s and lit a candle. It could probably only seat a dozen people.

Mooring ropes let go at 1640, Nigel has his sights set on Bali! Ormos Bali. Another gentle motor of around 3 hours arriving at 1930. We dropped anchor in a little spot close to the beach which had several Tavernas. Very nice. It was a beautiful evening with a near full moon, great company over dinner, and a couple of bottles of wine.

Sunday 18th May

A truly lovely morning with the water temperature 14 degreees and rising. J & D are raring for a swim in the sea. The Bay is beautifully clean and water inviting. After breakfast all dive in at 15.3 degreesC and enjoy a cold but refreshing swim. I stayed behind to catch up on some girly jobs (I’m a wimp really). After showers off the swimming platform we set off at noon to make some more water as our tanks are getting low.
By 1400 hrs the wind had freshened to F4 and F5 so we got the sails out. This is the first decent sail since last September so it took some thinking about! Jacqueline took the helm again and did very well. We anchored in a small bay close to the rocks with a little concern as the bottom was rocky and we were hoping that our anchor chain would not get wrapped round any of the rocks. Lunch was enjoyed and thankfully when we raised the anchor there was no difficulty. We were now heading for the deserted island called Dhia adjacent to Iraklion. It is a protected bird sanctuary as we have just found out. Nigel steered as close as he safely could right into the bay to give us as much protection from the wind and we dropped anchor at 1930. We were surrounded by cliffs with seagulls nesting on most ledges and you can only imagine our excitement when we spotted two baby seagulls of the same family! Another dinner at anchor and glass of wine before we turned in quite tired after a busy day.

Monday 19th May

Both Dave and I woke up (in separate cabins I hasten to add) at 6 am thinking it was raining and being very aware that the boat was moving around a lot more. Nigel got up and after a quick assessment of the situation and wind speed decided we should set off fairly quickly across the bay to Iraklion which was only 6.5 miles across. This was to be J & D’s departure stop which was a 40 minute bus journey to their holiday resort of Hersonisos.

We weighed anchor at 0720 (after a coffee so as not to unnerve anyone). Life jackets donned and clip-on instructions given. The wind was freshening and was gusting F5-6 East South East and for most of our time crossing we sailed on the jib alone. Karen was helming and reaching speeds of just over 5 knots when she handed over to Nigel who showed off and got Janika to perform 6.5 knots before Karen lost her nerve, panicked and asked (demanded!) to reduce sail and also heeling. We put the engine on to head for cover as the winds were strengthening all the time. At around 0900 hrs Karen noticed the engine revs seriously dipped and asked if Nigel had knocked the throttle which we really knew he hadn’t. Shortly afterwards the revs died completely and we lost power. The engine stopped and alarmed. All went quiet (I mean us!!!!!!)
Nigel suspected dirt or water in the fuel, which was getting quite low but still just below quarter full. We put the jib sail back out and tacked our way towards the harbour of Iraklion. We were about 2.5 miles away when we lost power. It was a very quick learning curve for J & D who assisted admirably with the tacking, Jacqueline earned her new nickname of winch wench. Dave quickly discovered that there’s more to this sailing lark than meets the eye! Nigel issued the directions as needed. We were all completely under his control and glad of his experience (although reasonably calm on the exterior I believe there was a bit of of apprehension and mental rationale taking place). Anyway we all did as we were told willingly. Nigel put two calls out on the VHF to Port Control to advise of our intention to sail into the large harbour– no response so we were definitely on our own! I was just praying that one of the very large ferries would not be coming our way as we approached and sailed down the neck of the harbour. Nigel tried the engine again and we managed enough power to enable us to drop anchor and Mediterranean moor against the outer harbour wall. Once tied up, although there was some surge at least we were in and safe.
Nigel went precariously across our gang plank ashore to show our papers (as we had already been spotted by the harbour master and approached). On his return he had secured a place in the inner harbour marina. Surprise, surprise the engine started and we motored around to the inner Venetian harbour. All tied up, safe and secure we are here for at least three days to chill out. J&D pack up and we say our farewells. I hope they enjoy reading about their experiences on board Janika. Any discrepancies can be posted on the messageboard. Thanks for being good shipmates.
Karen.

Monday 12th May

We checked the weather at a local internet café (that was our last blog entry). After a coffee in a nice café which surrounded the main square and in view of the statue commemorating Admiral Codrington’s victory, we determined that Pylos was well worth another visit should we be passing with more time to spare.

If it appears to you that we are in a bit of a rush, it is true, we are hoping to rendezvous with friends Jacqueline and Dave on the Island of Crete. They are aware that we are doing our best and weather permitting we will manage to spend a few days with them.

We cast off our ropes from Pylos quay at 1610. We had chosen to sail at this time and through the night as the winds tend to die down late afternoon, which makes for a safer passage at the moment and were fairly refreshed after our previous night’s sail and morning/midday sleep. Motoring all the way we crossed over the Elephanosis Channel which was more interesting as there were ships of a significant size to keep an eye on. We made very good progress and were looking for a suitable Bay to anchor in around the Gulf of Kalamata. We had picked up a navigation forecast over the VHF radio which was predicting strong winds at 0600 hrs and they seemed to be arriving earlier than predicted. The anchorage we thought would give us the most protection was in a bay called Mezapo which will remain forever in our minds. We arrived in darkness at 0240 and dropped anchor in winds of 27 kts. Unable to see where the sea ended and the rocks began (even with our million candle power torch) we anchored in 12 metres depth and put 50 metres of chain out. (12m was the shallowest we could find! Nigel) When the morning light broke we realised that we could have been a few metres closer in. By 0800 hrs it was blowing up quite a bit F6/7 (25 to 30 kts). We debated relaying our anchor a bit closer but swiftly discounted it as she was already doing a good holding job and we didn’t think we would gain any extra protection anyway.
0930 - wind speeds recorded 35.4 kts
1030 - 36.9 kts
1100 - 40.3 kts
1130 - 40.7 kts
1230 - 38.7 kts
1330 - 47.8 kts (panic is really setting in!!)
1430 - 50.1 kts We phone a friend Mike to see if we can get any idea of when this horror might abate, we feel the need to talk to someone for a bit of comfort contact. He phoned back and said it would probably break at 1900 hrs. (seems like a long time away).
We feel completely at the mercy of our anchor chain and can only sit tight and trust that she will hold us safe as the consequences are a nightmare. We are swayed around on our chain at a rate of 2.1 knots speed with the boat being blown so viciously it sometimes felt like it would be blown over.
We contemplate various options should the anchor chain break free like beaching her, that would be a last resort. The best option Nigel decided would be to try to steer into the wind for as long as it took under engine, although I knew I would not be able to take a turn at the wheel as I would be too scared.
Unbelieveably the storm persisted until about 1730 pm with wind speeds recorded between 35 – 54.1 at the top. Then we had some thunder, lightening and rain before the storm worked it’s way through. After the storm, miraculously the barometer rose 3 millibars within 5 minutes and the worst was over. I think we had a sandwich as neither of us was interested in food and we went to bed. At midnight the winds whipped up again, gusting up to 35 kts, Nigel moved to the saloon bunk to keep an eye out but we slept on fitfully, confident that if our anchor could hold at 50 then 35 would be a doddle!

Wednesday 14th May
After yesterday’s storm the sea in the bay is very calm but we know that the swell will be bad when we get further out. We have a very leisurely start. Jenny, our generator has been problematic to start, so Nigel changed the relay starter switch and hey presto she has been starting beautifully since. We shower, and anchors away at 1240 hrs. Heading for North Elephanosis. We watched a pair of dolphins enroute who entertained us for about 20 minutes following the boat and crossing from side to side with the odd leap to cheer us. We anchored in a small bay off Nisos Elephanosis and had a peaceful night.

Thursday 15th May
We phoned Dave last night to tell him that we would meet up with them in Chania (or Hania as the Greeks prefer) on Friday and ready for them to board after midday to give us time to scrub the decks and tidy up.
We tied up in Chania alongside the Town Quay at 1905. We were moored right outside of probably the noisiest local meeting bar/café in the town. That’s often the way it goes! Also, it probably is one of the reasons we love anchoring in quiet bays.
Karen.

Sunday 11th May

We said farewell to Lefkas Marina at 5.20pm. We would be lying if we said we were not both a little apprehensive about setting off again. Nerves showing by skipping off to the loo! I said casually “wouldn’t it be better if we set off early tomorrow”? To which the reply was “if we get away now we will be clear and 10 miles further into our journey and if we anchor, it’s a quick getaway tomorrow”. OK.
Motoring gently at 3.5 kts down the Lefkas Channel brought different and new feelings from the one’s 6 months previously when we entered the Channel on the 27th September. The arrival at our final destination after an exciting and eventful journey from Sweden to Greece brought a great sense of achievement. Now, we are embarking on a new journey through the Aegean and Greek Islands, meeting friends along the way and discovering new places.
I am also reminded that during that 6 months in Cheltenham a lot can happen. I became a Grandmother to Elisa Louise in December and sadly I also lost my father. I will miss both of them in different ways, but family travel with you in your heart.

The Lefkas Channel is approximately 1.5 miles long, and at 4 knots maximum speed it takes a while to get through. 2 hours later found us anchoring in a delightful small bay called Meganisi. We were surrounded by Olive and Cypress trees, 3 other yachts at anchor and all tied to trees ashore and a calm sea. Quick Greek pizza for supper and off to bed.
6.40 am kettle’s on – I respond better to a cup of tea first thing! The sun is coming up and it’s a beautiful day. The sea is so smooth it looks like a glassy mirror. Anchors aweigh 7.25, we’re heading for Zakynthos, 25 miles to go. The simplicity of the everyday life you see is just wonderful. We have just passed a Greek fisherman in his small boat, hauling his nets in. There was a single seagull floating alongside his boat, hopeful of an easy breakfast. Who says seagulls have no brains.
With no wind to speak of we were under motor and around midday as often happens in Greece the wind began to pick up so we thought it would be good idea to put some sail up, however, no sooner than we had raised a little sail, the wind was getting stronger Force 4 then 5 and 6 and 7 in a very short time. Sails back in again and the predictions which we had over the VHF that gales were predicted seemed to be coming true. Nigel checked the charts for a bolthole and we headed for it 4.5 miles away at Poros. It was utterly amazing how quickly the sea state changed from calm to a real rolly swell and wind remaining at high F7, a Near Gale! On entering the small ferry port of Poros Nigel got me in a panic when he said, “let’s do a Mediterranean moor.” My mind would just not, engage at that moment. We moored up fine but the swell continued to push our stern into the ugly concrete wall so we decided to move our ropes, lengthen the anchor chain and swing alongside. That was no better! After 5 hours of swell against the wall, we decided that it would be better to get back out there and at least strike out for Zakynthos. Once out of the harbour the wind had calmed but the sea state was still uncomfortable (as was Nigel’s tummy). Our plan was to get to Zakynthos and if we felt good to carry on through the night to make progress while the weather was favourable.
You guessed right we kept going, taking two hour watches through the night. At one point I woke up to find Nigel asleep on watch, I sat with him for 5 minutes then he got a fright when he saw me and said, “I was awake”!!!!!! We cleared Zakynthos by 11.30pm.
We arrived at Pilos at 8.30 am today Monday 12th in a large bay with an amazing historical story. Dropped anchor and slept till 12 noon. I can’t tell you how lovely it is being anchored alongside the beach with only a couple of people walking by. We have just finished lunch, our usual Greek salad and Nigel is going to give you some interesting detail.
Karen.

Hello again.
The Battle of Navarinon was fought inside this large bay where we are now.
At the very time when Greek forces were at their lowest ebb during their war of independence, the fortuitous naval engagement in the Bay of Navarinon changed the whole order of things and effectively won them the war, and gave Greece independence.
There was a treaty signed on 6 July 1827 called the treaty of London, which between Great Britain, France and Russia provided that Greece should be autonomous but under the control of the Turks. This piece of legal chicanery was implemented so that the three powers might remain friendly to both Greece and Turkey and allowed for their fleets to guarantee the treaty. The senior admiral, Codrington was given wide powers of discretion in the policing of the treaty.
Presented with the terms of the treaty, the Greeks agreed (they had little option) while the Turks did not!
Codrington decided to enter the Bay of Navarinon where the Turko-Egyptian fleet was assembled, even though his fleet was outnumbered and outgunned. (This is the bit I like)
The Allied fleet had 26 ships and 1270 guns, compared to the Turko-Egyptian fleets 89 warships and 2450 guns.
Despite the fact that we were not actually at war with the Turks, and that they were
Anchored in a three quarter circle facing the entrance to the bay, Codrington led his fleet in, bands playing on deck, and they anchored in the middle of the trap.
An Egyptian ship fired first, and a four hour bloody battle ensued. It was a scene of wreck and devastation, as not seen before. But Codrington won, and proved that European gun crews were more efficient in the heat of battle than their Eastern counterparts. France mopped up any remaining opposition on land in the Peloponnisos, and in the end Greece was free.
So, sorry it’s so long. But an important place in history for Greece, as we know it today.
Nigel.

Arrived at the Marina yesterday about 1.30pm absolutely exhausted so went straight to sleep till 5pm. Bumped into Peter and Brigitta who we joined for dinner later on. It was good to see friends again.
Today Nigel was up bright and breezy off to the Harbour Master's office to get our papers all stamped up, certified that the boat had been stored here for the last 6 months. We fitted the new thermostat to the freezer so lets hope that it cuts out now when the required temperature is reached.
The main event was hooking up and raising the main sail. We eventually managed it, although not without several attempts and lost the brand new batton which was purchased only 10 days ago. We consoled ourselves that it is only the first time that we have done it so next year it will be a "breeze" (we hope).
We are all provisioned up with enough meat and veg to fill the freezer and keep us going for at least 2 weeks. Any more shopping will just be the odd essential, hopefully when we get to Crete will be the next big shop.
Crete is 300 miles away and all being well wind and weather wise we are going to set off this afternoon and get a few miles under our belts.
Not sure when we will be able to catch up next but we look forward to it.
Karen x

In 15 minutes I shall leave this Greek 'paradise', and get on to the Athens coach.
I need to see Karen, and I think she needs me.
It struck me yesterday, in fact while I was hanging the washing out! Actually I believe that maybe a few more men should try doing the washing. And you could start with the Politicians and then the bankers. You know what rhymes with bankers? And that's proabably too high an opinion of them!
Us chaps are I believe, a bit short when it comes to reading the signals.
If a signal was posted like, 'England expects' high up from the top mast, then, we would be OK. But I've got there in the end. My gut instincts tell me this is right. Of course it's nothing to do with being lonely and missing Karen. (Liar!)
So, I arrive in Athens central bus station at 3.15pm. It is a dump. No use pretending otherwise. Another bus of an hour out the airport, if the traffic is kind.
Fly, care of Olympic Airlines and into Heathrow after a four hour flight at 9.10pm.
Budget will provide the car, and home in about 16 hours from now.
The next Blog you read will probably be Karen's. However I'm having such fun, I might have to put in an occassional appearance.
Best wishes to all. Nigel

Today is the 1st May.
Yesterday I awoke to an overcast and breezy morning. No chance of putting up the main then. At around 9.40 I made my way to attend my third appointment with Antonia, my new Greek dentist.
As I sat in the small waiting area, just outside her surgery, I heard some chap discussing how much he should take out of the bank, so that he could pay her on his next and hopefully last visit. Hearing was easy. First, because Antonia works with the door between her surgery, and the waiting area open. And second because the man was clearly English. Antonia thought for a moment, and made some strange noises, which I couldn’t detect what they were, and then announced 1,020 euros!
Mama Me! I thought. And contemplated, rushing out of the surgery. As this was my third visit, not counting the initial check up, and I wasn’t sure that my bank had enough money. If you have been watching the news lately, and I’m sure you have. You will know how plausible that seemed.
Anyway, he left, giving me a knowing look, and I went in. “Kala mera”, and all smiles.
Antonia prodded and drilled, and stuck her rubber gloved fingers into my mouth, for 40 minutes, and as she began packing new material into place, I began to think that things were soon coming to a finish. Voila! It was done.
Antonia said, ”that should do for now, but you will need to get the tooth crowned, later on. And she explained that, apparently I have very long teeth, and must look after this tooth, because to have it removed would be ‘very difficult’. (You know how the foreigners say ‘very difficult’ with a sort of slow slurring sound? Well, it was like that.)
I’m thinking. OK Antonia, but how much. So, having learnt a little of the language with Karen, who is far more proficient than me. I say, “Na ppoli rosso para kalaw” which means. How much is the bill please? And amazingly, she understands. Mind you, what else would I be saying now? ‘Nice weather we’re having now’, wouldn’t cut it.
140 euros, with a note to return get a crown. Sometime.
Relief all round The mind boggles at what the chap before me had done!

In the afternoon, I excavated the contents of the cockpit locker, and even got myself inside and under the locker where I opened and closed the array of valves down there, and sprayed liberal amounts of WD40, and corrosion protection on top.
(Brian knows where I mean, as he has been down there. Mind you he is probably reading this and wondering, how I with my love handles, got in. And well he might. I can tell you The hardest part was getting out, without straining something, or even somethings!

In the late afternoon, as I was doing a bit of varnishing. (The work never stops!)
Peter and his friend walked, so I invited them onboard for a beer. Peter and his friend ‘Sven’, nice chap, and they are both Danish.
A little while after they leave, Peter drops back. “Would you like to join us for dinner”? Thank you. It was a good meal, and nice company. And as Peter has a Najad also, but a 44’ whereas ours is a 38’ long. There are some comparisons between the two. All good hearted.
It is decided that desert will be ice cream and coffee in town. In the end, it is so late, that I forgo the ice cream, and have a filter coffee. And a whisky.

This morning now Thursday 1st May, and it is 12.35. All I’ve done today, is washing. Washing the bedding, my clothes that needed doing, and hanging them on the line on the foredeck to dry. Oh. I filled the water tanks too.
Now I shall make a Greek salad, and trott off to send this through, and collect some milk and fresh bread.
Nigel

Since returning from the dentist yesterday, I had a very agreeable day.
I replenished the food and drink stocks, which I found quite straightforward, as my meals are fairly simple. However, they are little more imaginative than yesterday’s fare, when I found sardines for lunch, and tuna with rice for dinner. Healthy yes. But I needed stores topping up!
I shall refer to the receipts, which I’ve kept, this time for interest. As I am sure that prices have moved up since last year. And that is on top of the increased strength of the Euro!
(By the way, in case you find my ramblings, either to be enjoyed or endured, please be aware that upon the return of my first mate (nautical wise) and best mate in every other, wise. That I shall go back to the ships log, and be content. No doubt amongst my weather readings and predictions, as well as all matters concerning Janika.
Karen says she has found a new side to me. One that can ramble on and on, I think she means, but says it more politely. However, although I am by nature a ‘bottom liner” and have been all my working life. I think it was out of necessity. At work, if the bottom line stood up, then, I was happy. If it didn’t, then, I could and did, drill down until all was understood.
However, I do find this time in the day, quite therapeutic, especially as I am on my own. And, I have the time.)
So, two chicken fillets fresh from the butchers. 3.36 euro. I noticed they are actually two birds, there’s two small half fillets, which I reckon will do one meal, and two larger fillets which I have split up into two separate bags for freezing. So three meals out of them! Not bad.
Two courgettes; two leaks; a green pepper and an orange one; and three large tomatoes 4.48 euro. From the greengrocers.
Two bottles of white wine from Crete. 4.22 euro each. Of course there is hardly no limit to what you can pay. But this is very drinkable.
A 375g box of Special K 3.11 euro. 400g tub of Feta cheese 4 euro. Great for Greek salad at lunchtimes. One litre bottle of softener 1.85 euro, and lots more.
I emptied everything out into the cupboards and fridge and freezer, and prepared a Greek salad, which I love.
After lunch, I bent on the jib to the forestay. Yes. That’s what you say. I won’t go any further, except to say, that I was pleased with the result. Tomorrow if the wind is calm, I may furl the inboard mainsail. And then Janika will be capable of sailing anywhere. Round the world if you like, as she is certified to do so. But not me! I may need certifying, but I’m not that brave! Yet.
Then feeling that I had achieved something today, I went for a walk along the side of the Lefkas canal as far as the floating bridge.
Lefkas is only an island by virtue of the canal running through the salt marsh between it and the mainland. The present canal was built by the Greeks with British help about 100 years ago. But a canal has existed here since the 7th century BC!
The town council call the bridge a ferry boat, and it has the name of Ag Maura painted on the side in case anyone should mistake it for anything else. This is all designed to keep the special grants and tax concessions that Islands in Greece get from the government in Athens.
Close by the ‘ferry boat’ I looked around Santa Maura castle mostly Venetian, but originally built in the 13th century. If it was in England, it would be protected, surrounded by a car park and tea shop. But I was able to stroll around unhindered.
I have a new plan, which Steve, (nice man Steve) has helped me to achieve. And I am presently typing this onboard, and intend to put onto my memory stick and transfer it to the Blog tomorrow. He is also assisting with some more photos, which I was struggling to transfer over. The reason I’m trying this route is that internet prices have rocketed here, and I was charged 7 euro for 45 minutes and one filter coffee! So you see why.
Whilst writing this. It is presently 6.30pm on 29 April. Helen called by and invited me to join Mike and her, with John no doubt, who is another stray, waiting for his wife to arrive, to go ashore and have coffee and ice creams together. Coffee I can resist. But not ice cream! So I shall now say, “see you later”, cook my dinner (chicken) and join them at 8pm. Nigel

I should start with a warning! That all names of people and places in this Blog 'may' be entirely fictious, and bear no resemblance to those living now, or the past!
I am indebted to Brian for reminding me, that I shouldn't risk being hauled off to Cuba, and also to Steve an his amazing web site for having the capability of editing past diary entries!
I even managed to spell Grisham right second time round!
But do you know that as well as sharing a tendancy for being sea sick like Admiral Sir Lord Nelson, I also have just read that he couldn't spell either! He even wrote to his wife, Fanny Nesbit, and spelt her name Nesbet. It's all true.
Although I have another book on the go, this new one about actual written works by all people associated with Nelson, as well as himself is a good read. It seems to take on an even more realistic aspect when onboard a yacht in the water in a marina. Mind you, as some of you know, he is my hero, so I'm easily desposed to enjoy books about him.
It's quite a coincidence, but yesterday, when I returned from writing the Blog, I walked down the pontoon towards Janika, and there I saw it. A french flag flying! The boat was moored on the opposite side of the pontoon to Janika, and there on our chart table, was my book on Nelson. I was tempted there and then to invite the Frenchman onboard for a drink. But discretion being the better part of valour, I extended a friendly greeting, and went below.
It is quite cosmopolitan here in Lefkas, and unsurprisingly next door is a Greek catamaran. There are several people onboard, and one sounds just like Anthony Quinn. Well actually Anthony Quinn sounds more Greek, but the voice is similar. This morning they woke me at 5am with noise and lots of talking. I've no idea what is was all about, but I awoke 2 hours later with a thick head. You know what that's like?
The reason that I'm Blogging now, is that I'm just returning from my second trip to the dentist! Determined not to give in to the excessive rates in England, I have had my teeth worked on in India for the last two years, and now trying Greece. Lsst year I had a cap put on for the exorbitant price in India of 70 pounds. A high price for tourists! The quote in England was 700 pounds!!!
Antonia is my dentist here, and she was recomended by Spiros, the marina manager. He even made the appointments for Karen and my first checkups. Such service. Don't you just love the names we are finding here? How do you like Spiros Curry? or Vassilis Curry? They have a certain ring to them.
Anyway, it's my first root canal work, and Antonia told me today that I need one more appointment and she will be finished. I'll let you know how much it costs. Not 70 pounds I'll bet!
Just think, going back to my other point. You could take a holiday to India have your teeth done for about 650 pounds including flights, and be better off than having them done in England. By the way, our indian dentist was trained in England as well as India, and they are well qualified.
Right sales pitch over. I'm off to clip on our genoa. That's the sail at the front.
Oh! Dave, just in case your reading this. We are still planning on Jacquiline and you having a few days sail out of Crete. So, don't thimk you are off the hook! Regards to all. Nigel
Finally, I've noticed that some emails I've sent have not been answered, that may ne because your anti virous is keeping emails out when sent from strange internet cafe's ion Greece. I don't blame them. But if you want to contact, send me a quick text on Gimsim.

Today, is Easter Monday in Greece!
I noticed a lot of lambs carcasses being carried out of the butchers shops on Saturday, and in the high street. lamb was being b.b.q'd with the smells and smokes wafting all around.
At 11.30 on Saturday night, I heard a lot of noise, and looked out from my cabin, where I had been asleep, and there were fireworks and a red glow over part of the town, which must have been a bonfire! I turned over and went back to sleep. I spoke to John on Sunday and he did the same. So I wasn't the only one missing the activities. But at 11.30 -12.00!
Yesterday, I walked over to the hard,(that's the part of the marina where the boats are up on dry land) to see our new friends Mike and Helen. They were our neighbours when we were on the hard. They have an old boat and plenty of work to do, but expect to put her (Unda)in the water on Tuesday. And you thought our boat had a funny name!
So, Helen, who I think likes to 'mother' me said, I'm glad you've come over, where have you been, we thought you had left us. All in the same breath. I explained that I had been busy on the boat. She said I have put your name down for a party! Oh! I said, and when is that? Helen, said, it's in an hour and a half. The mini bus is picking us up at 12.30, and you'll need to take some wine, (I like white she said) and a salad. There's a couple who have a boat here in the marina, that also have a house up in the hills overlooking Lefkas, and they have invited everyone from the marina, virtually.
And so it was. Liz and Tony b.b.q'd a lamb and a pig, and with our salads' all combined together we enjoyed a pleasant afternoon. The views were all across Lefkas as promised, and we could see yachts sailing up and down the canal and out through the lagoon. Lovely.
I was also introduced to the 'Bobbles', so called because that's the name of their boat, and people get known by that. (Does that mean I'm called 'Janika"! I wish I had known about that before.) Anyway, the Bobbles who are Jeremy, (Don't hold that against him) and Debbie are a very friendly couple, and own a boat in the harbour where they live, and have a house or flat in Lefkas which they rent out. They have moved from England completely.
A suitably quite evening finishing off John Grisham, (Thanks Jutta) and I was ready to turn in.
Yesterday appears to have been the start of the flotilla holiday's as over the last week there has been much feverish activity preparing the boats, and a lot of peopole arrived on Saturday, and yesterday when we returned from the bbq, the boats were gone!
Monday:
This morning I replaced the charcoal filter in the watermaker, (She is called 'Crystal).
Did some washing, and hung it all up along the guardrails to dry. An easy day today.
Do you know? I'm now tightening up my belt another notch! I could be eating less, or more healthly, but really I think I'm pining for Karen.
See you soon. Nigel

The good news today, is that I eventually fixed on the wing nut, and got Jenny running again. So that was my morning gone!
The bad news, is that after bragging about the amount of sunshine here, and offering to send you some home. We've had rain! I wasn't sure at first, but yes, it was definitely wet.
This afternoon I went for a walk and collected my new reading glasses, and they work great. Bought some new stainless steel shackles to replace some manky old ones that were rusted up. It gave me the chance to visit our favourite chandlery. Owned by a man who is becomimg a friend. Well, I'm definitely a friend of his, because of all the money I spend there!
But don't you just love the opportunity of strolling around a chandlery. It's better than B&Q!
Vassilis is the owner, and he has two ladies who seem to do the work. (Some things never change)
They are Rania and Katherine.
Anyway, I was telling Vassilis about our family. And then he told me about his. Far more interesting! Vassilis said that he had a daughter in Cuba 22 years old. And I like a lamb to the slaughter, said is she on holiday there? No, he says, "she lives there with her mother".
Bet I've got your attention now!
Apparently 22+ years ago Vassilis was a merchant seaman, he spent two years working out of Cuba. There at that time, you were not allowed on the streets after curfew unless you were related to a Cuban. So visitors had to be in safe inside in the early evening. And the penalties if you were caught werte severe. So, Vassilis always an adaptable man, married his sweetheart so he was not affected by the rules of curfew. Obviously, he spent some time indoors, as his daughter is proof!
The Vassilis says to me just as I was walking out. I don't know what I'll do if my Cuban wife comes to Greece, because he also married a Greek lady! And apparently, he thinks if she comes over he will have be with her as she is his first wife, and he never divorced!
As I walked along the street, so many questions were ringing in my head. Like. I wonder if his second wife knows all this? Has he any other children?
I shall have to find out some more background!
Rain has stopped. Back to Janika now. Bye. Nigel

This morning started well. By 9am I had had breakfast and went of to find out if a particular chandlery had found out the price of an anchor I was interested in. After some waiting they came up with 150 euros, and I said thanks, I'll keep looking.
I want a replacement for our kedge anchor, as I'm not happy with it. So, a lovely walk through Lefkas on a bright warm sunny morning, and I turned up at another chandlery.(There are four in Lefkas, and it probably has more chandleries than the rest of Greece put together!
The little rough faced greek man bid me good morning "kala mera" after me, and I enquired about anchors. We looked at a few, but none were really suitable. I thought he suggested that I look at another chandlery up the street, and thanked him and started to walk away. He called back, and said no, not another shop, but motioned for me to hop on the back of his moped. Which a little hesitantly, I did, and off we sped right up the main shopping high street of Lefkas. Which is pedestrianised! Mind you the mopeds go everywhere.
Not long after we turned into a small side street, and pulled up against an old lockup. Mind you, it wouldn't have taken much to make it into a full shop. It was big. And it was full. And there were lots of anchors. Most of them were copies of brand names that I recognised. I picked out one that looks a bit like a 'Bruce' anchor, which some of you will know. 10 Kg. 35 Euros. Deal done.
He took the anchor back to his shop, and I didn't stop to get a ride! When I arrived back at his shop. Yes, he was already there, and I paid the money.
I walked out of the street, and a volvo stopped, and a man said, "want a lift Nigel?" I'll swear I know more people here than I do in Cheltenham! It was Des and his mate who had driven down from England in his car. He has a 37' Oceanis. I was grateful for the lift. It might have been 10Kg then, but I bet it would have felt like 30Kg by the time I got back, without the lift.
This afternoon, has been productive, but frustrating. I've changed the impeller to the Generator. She is called 'Jenny'. It would take about 10 minutes if the access to the fitting was good. But it wasn't, and took me until now. 6pm. Say no more. I still need a nut, as I couldn't fit the wingnut, however hard I tried. Then tomorrow I'll crank Jenny up. (Jenny lives with Eddie in side the engine room. It's a very nice arrangement, and they are happy.)
Right I'm off to clean up properly, and make dinner. The omly person I've seen today is Peter. He borrowed my drill. But then I have my head down in the engine room most of the day!
I'm not sure what happened to the photos. Steve will put them on the site. But if he hasn't received them, he might read this and tell me to try again.
Have a good weekend. Hope the weather is better now. If I could , I would package some up and send it to you. There is so much here. Nigel.

Blue skies and hot sun here in Lefkas.
And I'm missing Karen.
People here have been really good. I've had drinks last night onboard John's 40' Moody with Mike and Helen. Lunch today with Peter and Brigettre onboard their 44' Najad. So tonight, I'm secretly hoping everyone gives me a miss, so I can dry out! (Hope my Mum understands that. I had to interpret yesterday's message! Sorry Mum, couldn't resist.)
This morning I cleared out the lazerette. It's the small locker on ther port side, and Najad have not got the draining holes right in my opinion, and so, it gets mucky with a layer of silt across the bottom. Karen and I found all the contents wet, mildewy and soggy when we arrived back last week. I think I'll get a plastic bag to help keep things dry.
I've been shopping! Got some leeks and courgettes to have a stir fry with chicken this evening. Oh and some fresh bread to have with a greek salad for lunch. But then I hadn't counted on Peter offering lunch as well.
Right. I'm off now, to find a better kedge anchor than the one on Janika. I've been reading about the Meltemi winds in the Aegean, and want us to have a better alternative if things get a bit breezy out there. For those of you joining us later in the year, you might like to read abouit the meltemi too. I bet you will find it interesting. But, as they say, when you have read about it, "don't have nightmares!"
I shall find us nice cosy little bays to shelter in.
You may find some new pictures on the site if I've managed to put them on correctly.
Best wishes. Nigel

Today I have some sad news to say.
Karen's father died last Sunday night. Dan had not been well for quite a long time. He died at home, which is where he wanted to be, with Edith by his side.
He has gone to a better place, and we will remember him.
Karen has just left here in a taxi to take a flight from Preveza airport. From Preveza Karen will reach Athens in an hour, and after a two and a half hour wait, will fly to Heathrow by Olympic Airlines. Her brother Derek, is collecting her at around 9.30pm tonight, and taking her home.

Time to back track a little. Yesterday Karen and I arranged for the marina lads to put Janika back into the water. They arrived at 12.30pm. Four men with their enormous crane/hoist to lift Janika off her cradles, and travel across the 'hard' and then gently lowered her into the water. At this point, with the slings still attached lightly, Karen and I got onboard. A little nervously, as we hoped that we had done all our homework properly, and that Janika would float, and not sink! All the openings had been closed off, the antifouling finished off, where the cradles had been covering the hull. The sea water cooling inlet was open, so that water would cool the engine as soon as we started it up. (Eddie the engine, that is. I should use his name. Wouldn't want to upset him!) And the fuel line open as well.
I turned the key, and good as gold Eddie fired up straight away, and we were not sinking either! It was a good day. We motored around through the marina and despite a fresh northerly breeze blowing, Janika made her way up along the pontoon, moving astern, and turned gently into her berth which happens to be F69. No, you couldn't make this stuff up, could you? And we parked up and made good our lines.
So, that's where we are, and I think I've said enough for now. See you later. Nigel

Yes Brian. You were right. Today we antifouled the hull. Oh. And a bit on my arms face and knees too! In black. The lady (Helen) on the next boat was very kind when I pointed out that despite showering vigorously with a fresh scouring pad, I still had some black tell tale signs of where I had been! She said it was my "rites of passage!"
Anyway Janika looks good, but as soon as one job finishes, another starts.
In the evening Karen offered Chicken with rice, or tuna and pasta. While I connected the gas, Karen started preparations for a nice meal. The gas lasted a few small seconds before it ran out. So, we ended up at The Seven Islands restaurant. I had Beef stefado, (My favorite) and Karen had beef goulash and ratatouille. Lovely. And with a little more Greek tuition from Christina who remembered us from last year.

Excited to see Janika, we had a quick breakfast and went to see Spiros (Marina Manager) to let him know we had arrived. He informed us that next from Wednesday nest week all the staff are on holiday as the weekend of 25th is the big Greek Easter holiday. He also booked us into the local dentist at 10am Monday. Spiros is not just any Marina Manager.
Janika was just like we had left her, the cover was completely intact just dusty.
Off to reacquaint ourselves with the girls at Marina Point Chandlers, Katherine and Rainia, we were delighted that they remembered us and we spent time swapping stories. Their boss Vassilis was in the shop. We had not met before, although Nigel had e'mailed him to ask about getting some charts. He is hot on the case now and has also recommended a local restaurant for tonight. We purchased our anti-fouling paint and he gave us some down to earth advice which we will take up tomorrow when we get the roller and paint brushes out.
Off for some dinner now at Sea Shell Restaurant.

After a pleasant night in the Hotel Ibis, Heathrow, we arrived at TERMINAL 5 at about 7.30 am (a little later than we had planned)and high tailed it through the SciFi looking building to the fast bag drop. We had checked in online the day before - good job too because it took ages to clear through the security, bags emptied shoes/coats off - what a palarva! Then we discovered it would take a further 20 minutes to get to out flight gate. Down a long escalator, into a train for all of 2 minutes then back up another long escalator. We made it just as they started to board.
A good flight to Athens, arriving at 2pm. We were the last people waiting at the conveyer belt when I realised that my rucksack was not going to turn up so Nigel waited in vain while I went to the "Baggage Trace" desk. Yes, it had somehow not managed to get on the same flight as us and was going to be on the next one - poor little rucksack. The Greek man who dealt with me was completely without emotion whilst explaining that it would be put on the morning bus to Athens and then transferred to Lefkas to join us. We have just picked it up from the local bus station which fortunately is only a 10 minute walk from the Marina. The only thing in the bag we needed was the toothpaste for last night ...
Because of the missing bag we were late getting to the bus stop and with heavy traffic in Athens we missed the 4.30 bus and had to hang aroung the non too pleasant Kiffisus Intercity Bus Depot for nearly 4 hours till the 8.30 bus which got us into Lefkas at 2 am.

We are flying to Greece on Thursday 17th Apil at 0820 hrs, arriving at Athens airport at 1400hrs. We then have to find the No 93 bus to Kiffisus bus station in Athens, which will take between 40 and 90 minutes depending on the traffic. The next bus which I have not booked yet will take us all the way to Lefkas taking approximately 5/6 hours with a refreshment stop along the way around the Corinth Canal area.

By the time we reach Lefkas it will be 9.30 in the evening. I have managed to book a room in the Hotel Ianos which is in the Marina complex and about 5 minutes walk away from the boat. At least we will have a good nights sleep, shower and breakfast before reacquainting ourselves with our lovely boat in the morning.